Do you clean your dan threads when going from one rifle to another? My rifles seem to have different length threads and the buildup on the can makes it thread hard when going from a rifle with longer threads to one with shorter threads? Maybe gun scrubber and a synthetic brush to clean when swapping ?
This is what I use, a brass one for most stuff, sometimes with a bit of Hoppes #9 if needed. I then usually wipe it down well with my oily CLP rag. This is how I usually clean mounts and just inside the can where them mounting parts or threads are. If it's stubborn, if carbon gets caked on, then I have to resort to a strong light and a dental pick. Then brush and wipe down.
Some can be submerged into US cleaners, but be cautious of the media and detergents used, and it would behoove you to find out if those parts can be cleaned US. It destroys titanium nd can damage or remove some finishes. Using Kroil inside the water pan and soaking the parts in the Kroil in the pan of water in the US machine can keep from damaging the parts, though some minor cleaning is required afterwards.
If using a US cleaner, DO NOT use brass detergent to clean weapons parts or suppressors!
I use Choy Boys, particularly the stainless type. Get an old brass bore brush to wind some choy boy onto it for a few layers; use a portable hand drill to slowly wind some scrubbing pad material on to the brass brush, use wire cutters to liberate the strands. It works great for muzzle devices and suppressor adapters (inside and out). It will have them clean in 60 seconds. The brass brush will hold the strands securely whereas a nylon bore brush will not. Also when cleaning the bore of a muzzle device (not a suppressor) use a proper size tool, usually an open wrench, to hold the device to keep it from spinning and it also gets surprisingly hot quickly !
