A build question thread...

[flash-bang]

Want to build 600 meter varmint/paper gun upping a donated to me Heavy Barrel Windham Weaponry upper and BCG. Out to 600 meters with optic.

Question 1. How hard are front sight posts to remove. Heard rumors and stories of F'ed up rifles. I have the Brownelle's block, a set of punches, hammers of various sizes all ready to go. This FSP pins have big round heads protruding from the sight post where the roll pins are supposed to be, I thought. Thought they were supposed to be roll pins, these look like sold AK pins.
Question 2. Will a carbon fiber front hand guard hold up with a Grip pod. I plan on adding nothing else but may be some well placed skateboard tape. Plan is to remove barrel (I think) because I gotta to install free float hand guard.(more research on my part needed) When I reinstall do I have to take it to have it re-headspaced? The bolt and chamber are matched now before the tear town.
I know these are all really off the wall questions, but want to do something using parts that were donated. And I'm sill learning. Thanks

 

[cwillits505]

Re: A build question thread...

let me offer alittle to help you out bud.. No, front sight posts are not hard to remove, just know this, the pins are TAPER pins, not roll pins, meaning they are TAPERED--- (bigger on one end than the other) .. most people "F" up the gun and lead to horror stories when they try to pound them out the wrong end.. if you take a look at the pins you will notice which end is bigger, you want to drive the pins out hitting the SMALLER end of the pins, set up in your brownells block and you should be fine..

2--- skateboard tape?? ya lost me a bit there.. but anyways, free float tubes have many ways of attaching, some to a standard barrel nut, some to a proprietary nut they should come with, use the directions for yours.. and no, if the Barrel/Bolt is headspaced, you will not need to have it re-checked just from taking the barrel off, you'll be fine.. hope this helps..

 

[eracer]

Re: A build question thread...

I had a BITCH of a time getting a front sight off my AR the first (and only) time I tried.

I got the Brownell's block. I got a set of MAC taper pin punches. I got a 4 lb. sledge. I even got a barrel vise that I aligned with the Brownell's block.

I pounded, and pounded, and pounded...

Finally, I took some advice and soaked the sight post in a can of Kroil. The next day the pins came out without a whole lot of trouble.

 

[rescueswimmer]

Re: A build question thread...

Heating up the FSB a little can help. I don't mean flaming red but a little heat for a few seconds can help.

 

[MtnCreek]

Re: A build question thread...

I have a PRI carbon fiber float tube and it has held up well with a sling attached to it. The bolts that hold the rail on thread into steel nuts, not the carbon fiber. I suggest mounting whatever you want prior to installing on the rifle.

If you have proper headspace now, it will return to the same when you re-install the barrel (assuming you use same barrel/bolt).

Good luck with your new build!

 

[flash-bang]

Re: A build question thread...

To all above:
Thank You very much for helping me out. I dread starting to remove the FSB, but the more forewarned the better I'll feel. I have heard the FSB from Brownell's is a must.(check) I have read in manuals that they are tapered, and I will remember this beforehand and do more research. I think they go in from the right, out from the left. But I will look it up. (check) I'll even call Windham and see if they have any advice... Thanks cwillits505 Oh, and the skate board tape was a reference to a friend who says he hates the round vented carbon fiber "tube" he bought as a forward grip because when it gets wet it has no grip....

Kroil, heard it before and sounds logical, thanks, eracer.

rescueswimmer; heat is my friend... ok!

Mtn Creek: O.K. I wondered how strong the attach point between the carbon fiber and the metal would be. But from what you describe, if I buy a quality unit I should be OK.

*anyone what to speak up on great luck they have had with a light weight tube? I picture a round one with holes for heat exchange, carbon fiber/aluminum that has attachment points for just a Versa pod.*

I'll take anymore advice that is out there.
I've thought of grinding off the protruding ends of the pins, soak overnight in Kroil, then heat up with small shop propane torch for some heat. Then use my American Made taper pin punches and have at it. Anyone see anything I'm missing. Love the invaluable advice.
"From lurking here, I have just about completed one ground up build and a total rebuild. I used a Timney trigger group so I didn't have to mess with the sear because drop in groups are so easy, that still feels above my skill level. I'm going to learn a little more here and on youtube on headspacing, then my fist time have a competent gunsmith 2x my work and I'll almost be there"
I'm beginning to feel these rifles are easier to work on than any Kalashnikov!
Thanks for advice so far and for any given in the future
Respectfully, -Matt