I am ready to spin my barrel for a switch barrel I am building. I have researched this as much as I can and have found many different opinions. I would like to hear how anyone is doing this. For example spring loaded tenon, normal tenon, hand tight vs bench vise. Anything else that will help before I chuck the barrel up. This is my match rifle.
Gunsmithing barrel tenon
- Thread starter RTO
- Start date
Re: barrel tenon
If the thread fit is good and snug like it should be, put some anti-sieze on the threads and then snug the action on to the barrel with 50-60ft-lbs.
If the thread fit is good and snug like it should be, put some anti-sieze on the threads and then snug the action on to the barrel with 50-60ft-lbs.
Re: barrel tenon
Randall, I normally thread the barrel tenon for the action to get the best fit I can. I just wasnt sure what other options were out there. Researching this I have read lots of different things from people doing different approaches and hand tightening to lightly snug and just wondering what the pros and cons are and what all options there are for doing this or any tips or tricks anyone would like to share. I am really open to trying something different for this but just dont have any experience with a switch barrel other than the normal process of chambering a new barrel after shooting one out. Trying to think this through before slinging chips.
Randall, I normally thread the barrel tenon for the action to get the best fit I can. I just wasnt sure what other options were out there. Researching this I have read lots of different things from people doing different approaches and hand tightening to lightly snug and just wondering what the pros and cons are and what all options there are for doing this or any tips or tricks anyone would like to share. I am really open to trying something different for this but just dont have any experience with a switch barrel other than the normal process of chambering a new barrel after shooting one out. Trying to think this through before slinging chips.
Re: barrel tenon
Make your thread fit as tight as possible without the barrel and receiver galling, but just loose enough that you can thread the barrel into and out of the receiver by hand once it's popped loose.
Cutting the threads too tight and lapping for a final fit is not out of the question.
When your thread fit is good, you should be able to spin the barrel in and POP it tight.
If it locks in so you can't spin it free by hand, that's a good fit.
I used to shoot with a guy that had a gun put together like this.
It would shoot good for a few rounds and then the barrel would come loose.
He would reach up and twist it back tight and continue on making hits.
He eventually brought it over to me and I tightened it for him with proper barrel and action wrenches...
Make your thread fit as tight as possible without the barrel and receiver galling, but just loose enough that you can thread the barrel into and out of the receiver by hand once it's popped loose.
Cutting the threads too tight and lapping for a final fit is not out of the question.
When your thread fit is good, you should be able to spin the barrel in and POP it tight.
If it locks in so you can't spin it free by hand, that's a good fit.
I used to shoot with a guy that had a gun put together like this.
It would shoot good for a few rounds and then the barrel would come loose.
He would reach up and twist it back tight and continue on making hits.
He eventually brought it over to me and I tightened it for him with proper barrel and action wrenches...
Re: barrel tenon
Sounds like the theory of right hand twist will keep a barrel tight and not loosen it is not true. Looks like the only real option is to thread and chamber like a normal build and carry my bench vise and action wrench with me. I was really hoping for another option. Seems like this is going to be a pain in the ass and not as easy as I was hoping.
Sounds like the theory of right hand twist will keep a barrel tight and not loosen it is not true. Looks like the only real option is to thread and chamber like a normal build and carry my bench vise and action wrench with me. I was really hoping for another option. Seems like this is going to be a pain in the ass and not as easy as I was hoping.
Re: barrel tenon
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: RTO</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Sounds like the theory of right hand twist will keep a barrel tight and not loosen it is not true. Looks like the only real option is to thread and chamber like a normal build and carry my bench vise and action wrench with me. I was really hoping for another option. Seems like this is going to be a pain in the ass and not as easy as I was hoping.</div></div>
There is always the option of pinning or keying the barrel to the perfect headspace. Where you put the shoulder just barely tight (5-10 ft. lbs.) on the action and then drill/ream for a pin or cut for a key. That way you can hand tighten and still have hand remove/install capability with the pin or key.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: RTO</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Sounds like the theory of right hand twist will keep a barrel tight and not loosen it is not true. Looks like the only real option is to thread and chamber like a normal build and carry my bench vise and action wrench with me. I was really hoping for another option. Seems like this is going to be a pain in the ass and not as easy as I was hoping.</div></div>
There is always the option of pinning or keying the barrel to the perfect headspace. Where you put the shoulder just barely tight (5-10 ft. lbs.) on the action and then drill/ream for a pin or cut for a key. That way you can hand tighten and still have hand remove/install capability with the pin or key.
Re: barrel tenon
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: RTO</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Looks like the only real option is to thread and chamber like a normal build and carry my bench vise and action wrench with me.</div></div>
ok, you did not ask the right question then if you were concerned with FIELD SWAPPING...
I would make a special barrel wrench that encircles the barrel and has a 1/4" dowel pin that you can slip into it.
Figure out a way to store the dowel pin in the wrench.
Then make yourself a little 1/4" diameter by about 1/10" deep spotface on the bottom of the barrel.
Now the wrench will slip on to the barrel and the pin will slip into the wrench and barrel.
That's your barrel removal leverage.
As for the receiver, you can either use a rear-entry wrench or make a simple one that slips over the action with the scope base and scope still in place and uses the front screw hole as a tie-point.
Both of these tools can be kept to perhaps 8" long overall length to store easily in your gear...
They will give you more than 20 ft-lbs of torque which is enough to make it stay together.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: RTO</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Looks like the only real option is to thread and chamber like a normal build and carry my bench vise and action wrench with me.</div></div>
ok, you did not ask the right question then if you were concerned with FIELD SWAPPING...
I would make a special barrel wrench that encircles the barrel and has a 1/4" dowel pin that you can slip into it.
Figure out a way to store the dowel pin in the wrench.
Then make yourself a little 1/4" diameter by about 1/10" deep spotface on the bottom of the barrel.
Now the wrench will slip on to the barrel and the pin will slip into the wrench and barrel.
That's your barrel removal leverage.
As for the receiver, you can either use a rear-entry wrench or make a simple one that slips over the action with the scope base and scope still in place and uses the front screw hole as a tie-point.
Both of these tools can be kept to perhaps 8" long overall length to store easily in your gear...
They will give you more than 20 ft-lbs of torque which is enough to make it stay together.
