Gunsmithing Bedding a new 5R Need pics, and answers please

groundhogbuster

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Jul 20, 2012
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Western NC
Ok guys I just posted on the bolt gun forum that I just received my new 5r in 308, w/ HSP stock. The brrl does not line up in the brrl channel, especially at the end, but when I loosen the front action screw, it straightens right out, but again when I torque it, right back to the left it goes. I was planning on sending it back, but I have Devcon, Kiwi. Do I have to have extra long action screws to do the stress free bed? Do I need to bed the tang area? I was planning on just laying it on the bench on bipod, level it out with something under the stock, aand bed from recoil lug back. Anyone have any input, or would you just send it back?
 
Re: Bedding a new 5R Need pics, and answers please

I am currently skim bedding a 5r into the HS stock. The fit between the aluminum and the action was really terrible. The only place the aluminum was touching the action was right along the sides of the aluminum block.

My action and barrel are laying perfectly straight in the stock so I am just using the epoxy to fill in the gaps between the action and the stock. I can tell the action is being stressed when bolted into the stock because the bolt is much easier to cycle when the action screws are loosened.
 
Re: Bedding a new 5R Need pics, and answers please

Thanks guys. Yea I can tell when I start to tighten the front action screw, the whole action and barrel want to move to the left. I put it in a BC stock, and it aligned perfectly. I guess skim bedding it will fix this, as soon as I get the courage to do it.
 
Re: Bedding a new 5R Need pics, and answers please

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Mordamer</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I am currently skim bedding a 5r into the HS stock. The fit between the aluminum and the action was really terrible. The only place the aluminum was touching the action was right along the sides of the aluminum block.
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This is exactly what they are designed to do. It's called V-Block fit and it's common on chassis type stocks.
 
Re: Bedding a new 5R Need pics, and answers please

Well what would cause my action to shift to left when I tighten the front action screw? The blocks a little low on the left side?

If I keep it I thought about bedding from back of RL on back, but leave the tang alone. Is there any putty supposed to be in the recoil Lug? And when putting stock back on and screws still a tad loose the whole action moves front and back a tad, should I tighten it when it's back, or forward?, or somewhere in the middle. I was just gonna putty the lug back, kiwi everything, including screws,tape around the barrel up front to keep height, and center the barrel, but not put any tension anywhere else. Would that fix the twisting problem?
 
Re: Bedding a new 5R Need pics, and answers please

Personally, I'd send it back. If it's canting when you torque it, then something is not right. The HSP aluminum chassis extend quite a bit up into the forestock so if it's not straight at torque, then something is probably messed up.
 
Re: Bedding a new 5R Need pics, and answers please

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: groundhogbuster</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Well what would cause my action to shift to left when I tighten the front action screw? The blocks a little low on the left side?
</div></div>

Simple answer, there is something interfering with the proper seating of the action.

Get some "spotting compount" like Brownell's spotting Gold. Will contrast against the black stock better than prussian blue. Can also use something like zinc oxide cream like mountain climbers smear on their noses. Light colored lipstick as long as it contrasts with the black of the stock can be used too.

Smear a thin, even coating on the action and barrel. Set the action in the stock and hand clamp it so it contacts the action block as much as possible. In the beginning it might help to rotate and slide the barreled action but try and keep it seated in the block.

Remove the action and look for areas where the spotting compound transferred. If on the stock, scrape the marked areas away. Keep doing this until the only marking is on the action block. If the marking isn't "full length" on the block then slowly and carefully, scrape away at the marking, removing a thousandth of an inch of metal each time. If you have a partial mark on the forward part of the block, extending from the front to part way back, and it's even side to side, then keep scraping at the marking on the tang end until the front marking extends the full length of the block and also marks evenly on the tang support. When properly done, the marking compound you chose to use will leave a continuous mark on both sides of the front portion of the action block. The rear tang support will have even marking, looking like a cradle with only the area below the groove these rifles have machined in the bottom surface of the tang.

Once you have "fitted" the rifle to the block for 100% contact, then go shoot it. Keep the action screws torqued to 63-65 in lbs. If it shoots well, ignore the calls to bed the action. It's not neeeded anymore.

Of course one can just bed it to avoid the task of bedding but someday, the bedding will loosen or be hammered out of shape.

I just finished fitting my 5-R in a B&C stock and am far happier with the results than my previously bedded stock.

A V-Block type mount essentially divides the clamping force of the action screws (estimated at 1200 lbs tension @65 in/lbs torque) into two separate force vectors. Approximately half the force is directed downward into the block, keeping the barrel and action from pitching up/down. The other half of the force is directed toward the centerline of the bore preventing yaw. The higher "unit pressure" will also keep the round Remington action from rotating which is another accuracy sapping problem.

Just like all the other advances in rifle building technology, Aluminum Action Blocks/V-Blocks are another advancement. Yes, skim bedding might improve a rifle with an aluminum block but all it's doing is covering up the easily rectified flaws that a patient person can correct without "putty". Think of it like body work on a car. You can approach it like a craftsman and smooth the metal or you can just fill it with "Bondo".