Gunsmithing barrel threading differences

[joemusso]

i have a remington 700 threaded to 5/8X24 i have an GAP built AR-10 with the same thread
my question is can they be different as far as the finished area next to the barrel
the AR-10 seems to have a ridge where the threads stop and the 700 does not.

i have a muzzle brake with the 5/8X24 thread and it wont screw all the way down on the AR-10.

thank you
joe

 

[maccrazy2]

Re: barrel threading differences

You mean the threads dont go down all the way to the face/shoulder where the can is threaded on. That is not uncommon. Some machine a groove at rhe face so when the threads are cut there is a place for the tool to run out of the material. Others just thread untill close to the shoulder which leaves a little unthreaded portion. Either method ends up with about the same area which does not have threads. You can grind tools so you can run a thread just up to the face but in most cases it is not required. As long as your can does not run out of therads before the end of the can and the shoulder on the barrel join you are good to go.

 

[maccrazy2]

Re: barrel threading differences

Doh, missed your last line. You will have to have the threads cut closer to the shoulder on the barrel or, the first couple threads removed form the brake so it can clear the unthreaded portion.

 

[Sighter]

Re: barrel threading differences

It will be much easier to back bore the brake a couple of threads without it affecting function on either rifle.

In other words, much more simple to chuck, true and relief cut the brake vs the barrel.