copper fowling
- Thread starter johnnyappleseed
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Re: copper fowling
Boretech Eliminator. I dont like solvents that fully strip out the barrel. Every barrel I have ever used it on has performed great for its entire life.
Boretech Eliminator. I dont like solvents that fully strip out the barrel. Every barrel I have ever used it on has performed great for its entire life.
Re: copper fowling
I'll throw another vote for mpro7 I like there whole line of stuff especially the ones that LEAVE the copper.
I'll throw another vote for mpro7 I like there whole line of stuff especially the ones that LEAVE the copper.
Re: copper fowling
So then Boretech cleans your barrel, but then doesn't pull out all of the copper? Much as Todd Harnett talks about on the Magpul series.
Specifically he states that for example on one of his rifles which was a TIGHT shooter, he cleaned out all of the copper & it became a 3 MOA gun. But once he let it re-copper it was back to 1/4-1/2 MOA again.
Am I correct here? Especially with regards to the Boretech Eliminator?
So then Boretech cleans your barrel, but then doesn't pull out all of the copper? Much as Todd Harnett talks about on the Magpul series.
Specifically he states that for example on one of his rifles which was a TIGHT shooter, he cleaned out all of the copper & it became a 3 MOA gun. But once he let it re-copper it was back to 1/4-1/2 MOA again.
Am I correct here? Especially with regards to the Boretech Eliminator?
I currently use Butchs Bore Shine, have used Shooters Choice, I hear the 10X stuff is good but haven't tried it yet..
Buchs Bore Shine ALL THE WAY. Wet patches till they are clean, let sit 5 minutes, 2 more wet patches, 3 dry patches, 1 oil patch.
P.S. JB bore paste is basically very fine grit LAPPING compound. Wouldnt use that too much...
P.S. JB bore paste is basically very fine grit LAPPING compound. Wouldnt use that too much...
Periodically and when I have a specific problem, I get out the ole' RCBS FoulOut unit and way my problems go.
No. The Boretech Eliminator pulls out the copper as well.
http://www.boretech.com/products/eliminator.shtml
1+ BoreTech Eliminator removes both carbon and copper, but I find I get very little fouling even after 200-300 rounds. Only 4-6 dry patches after several wet patches down the barrel and she's clean and back to 0.5 MOA after 2-3 shots.
I Use Wipe Out. However, I have a Bartlein barrel now with about 400 rounds through it and have yet to see any copper indications. Throat must have not had much if any cross hatch marks from the reamer.
+1 for Butch's Bore Shine. You need to leave it in the bore for while to get the most out of it. If you swab it out right away you are wasting it. It doesn't work as quickly as Sweets but it won't harm your bore.
Most copper fouling seems to be covering imperfections in the barrel. I leave it unless accuracy deteriorates or pressure spikes.
there is only ONE!...
https://www.google.com/search?q=kg12+test
absolutely NOTHING can compare to KG12....
https://www.google.com/search?q=kg12+test
absolutely NOTHING can compare to KG12....
Butche's Bore Shine, Montana Extreme, Boretech Eliminator, TM Solution.
I've never had any luck with Wipe-Out and KG12 sucks in my opinion.
I've never had any luck with Wipe-Out and KG12 sucks in my opinion.
Are you guys not using nylon or non brass/copper brushes for a reason? I've always used brushes along with patching to clean my barrels.
Mike
Mike
I don't know anyone with a custom barrel who uses a brush of any type. It's just not necessary.
Wipe-Out/Patch-Out works and is easy on metal.
A few passes with a patch soaked in their Accelerator, plug the muzzle with a cork, squirt in an ounce or so of Wipe Out and plug the bore or bore-guide with another cork.
Let it set overnight, drain the fluid and about 3-5 patches will remove whatever was in there.
If it is still REALLY coppered in, use Sweets.
If is is still REALLY powder-fouled, Bore-Tech C4 Carbon remover.
Finish with a couple of patches with Kroil and you're done.
A few passes with a patch soaked in their Accelerator, plug the muzzle with a cork, squirt in an ounce or so of Wipe Out and plug the bore or bore-guide with another cork.
Let it set overnight, drain the fluid and about 3-5 patches will remove whatever was in there.
If it is still REALLY coppered in, use Sweets.
If is is still REALLY powder-fouled, Bore-Tech C4 Carbon remover.
Finish with a couple of patches with Kroil and you're done.
I know quite a few people who do use brushes. Have used either stainless or nylon brushes and have noticed that sometimes I can patch out clean, hit it with a copper solvent/brush for 3-5 strokes and then get another 3-5 dirty patches. I don't clean like this however anymore. While my gun shoots GREAT on a clean bore, I've noticed that my zero is more consistent with a fouled barrel so I only clean out the carbon and try not to hit it with copper remover until accuracy falls off. Have only started using a data book recently and haven't gotten to shoot very often lately so still gathering data.
Mike
Not to go into a step by step on how I do it to keep this short my hurry up method I use Sweet's 7.62 Solvent followed by Remington 40x bore cleaner. Not in a hurry just Hoppe's No.9 solvent. Patches only! I use no brush. If you insist on using a brush use a caliber or two smaller and roll a patch around it. Only push the brush from the breech end out the muzzle all the way. Don't reverse the brush in the bore and take the brush off the cleaning rod before pulling your rod back thru the bore. Don't drag the brush back over the crown.
More damage is done from improper cleaning than from shooting. First thing that takes a beating is the muzzles crown.
Argue all you want about the brush being softer than the steel of the barrel. It's metal on metal. The old saying is "Why can water erode rocks?". The water is softer than the rock?
There are a lot of things happening when cleaning the bore of the barrel. Don't forget you have dirt that is loose or gets loosened up (carbon and copper deposits) and as you are cleaning the bore that dirt/grit gets pushed against the steel of the bore of the barrel and everything is rubbing against one another.
Later, Frank
Bartlein Barrels
More damage is done from improper cleaning than from shooting. First thing that takes a beating is the muzzles crown.
Argue all you want about the brush being softer than the steel of the barrel. It's metal on metal. The old saying is "Why can water erode rocks?". The water is softer than the rock?
There are a lot of things happening when cleaning the bore of the barrel. Don't forget you have dirt that is loose or gets loosened up (carbon and copper deposits) and as you are cleaning the bore that dirt/grit gets pushed against the steel of the bore of the barrel and everything is rubbing against one another.
Later, Frank
Bartlein Barrels
I use sweets.i also use Butch's bore shine.
I run a few patches and then use nylon brush.
I run more patches until the come out clean, then run Kroil thru.
I run a few patches and then use nylon brush.
I run more patches until the come out clean, then run Kroil thru.
Have always used Sweets on my rifles. Seems to work just fine for me. Had a 270 Weatherby that no one could get to shoot worth a crap. Sweets, a lot of it, and it was shooting just like new again.
I have only cleaned the bore on my Savage 2 times to bare metal (After Break In). And after I did clean it that good I had to shoot 20+ rounds to get the gun to group again. I usually leave it dirty because the savage shoots better dirty! If you have a Savage that doesn't seem to be very accurate, get it dirty ad then try again...
Good Luck!
Good Luck!
I was just going to post this but Jeffvn beat me to it. I like KG-12. Wet a patch and scrub back and forth 20 time let is sit for 5 or 10min repeat and wipe it out and Done. I use it on break in and then after accuracy starts to go.
^^^^^ THIS. It Works. I havent used sweets, Ive been using Buchs. But I follow this method. Works great. Thanks again Frank for the advice.
The quickest most effective method I use is..boretech c4 (their carbon cleaner) until the patches come out with barely any greying. Then boretech eliminator or cu+2 if its real bad. If im not in a hurry just eliminator. In my experience boretech eliminator is much faster cleaning than butch's bore shine with out the odor, plus I've heard butch's contains jet fuel which is known to cause leukemia. Boretech has no odor with the exception of c4 which smells like oranges and is non toxic. Btw the c4 works wonders on revolver cylinders. My barrels seem to foul less using boretech also, although I have no hard evidence.
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