Just kidding, but I'm quite frustrated. Trying to get the roll pin through the hole for the forward assist, it's stuck. Not sure as to why. Pictures to follow. PLEASE HELP!!
Gunsmithing Probably going to burn a building down...
- Thread starter HotAirBaloonInstructor
- Start date
Not lined up right. Try turning the forward assist a little in both directions, or pulling it in and out a little. I've found it helps to chamfer the leading edges a bit, too.
1911fan
1911fan
chamfer? what does that mean exactly? also, the roll pin is kind of "stuck" and my pin punch isn't long enough to knock it back out.
Try wrapping tape on the on the teeth of some channel locks and using them to squeeze/press it in. Works.
Agree with the above poster, if you're building ARs buy the required roll pin punches. World of difference. Also, by chamfer, I mean slightly bevel the end of the pin, so it goes into the hole a little easier.
If, at this point, you can't go either way, you're screwed. Grab a pair of pliers and get the pin out, it's most likely already too beat up to reuse. Also, if by 'castle nut' you are referring to the nut that holds the receiver extension/buffer tube on, they are not staked.
1911fan
If, at this point, you can't go either way, you're screwed. Grab a pair of pliers and get the pin out, it's most likely already too beat up to reuse. Also, if by 'castle nut' you are referring to the nut that holds the receiver extension/buffer tube on, they are not staked.
1911fan
I have had it happen on a few builds my self it has always been that the forward assist was not properly aligned.. iuse vice grips and tape to push the pin into place
Cheap Sams Club/Costco drill bits are a fast, ugly way to get yourself punches for driving roll pins.
Yeah, but the best way is to get actual roll pin punches. Starter punches have a recess in the end that holds the pin while you start it into the hole, and the other (forget the name) have a nipple that fits into the end of the roll pin and holds the pin and punch in alignment. Cheap, get 'em from Brownell's or Midway, and best investment I've made for building ARs. Saves a TON of frustration.
Pro tips: get the takedown pin tool, and three drill bits: one for each size of roll pin; and a tap for the grip screw hole. Before you start the build, run each drill bit into the roll pin hole, using just your fingers, to clear away excess anodizing. Run the tap into the grip screw threads, also by hand.
When you are installing the front takedown pin, the tool helps, but here's a handy thing. Put the lower in a two-gallon ziploc bag, with the front toward the closed end. You can get both hands into the bag and can watch what you're doing. When the spring and detent fly out, which they will, they go about an inch and are right where your hand is. Saves looking all over for the damn detent, then waiting for the one you had to order to show up.
1911fan
.....yeah, I like ARs too.
Pro tips: get the takedown pin tool, and three drill bits: one for each size of roll pin; and a tap for the grip screw hole. Before you start the build, run each drill bit into the roll pin hole, using just your fingers, to clear away excess anodizing. Run the tap into the grip screw threads, also by hand.
When you are installing the front takedown pin, the tool helps, but here's a handy thing. Put the lower in a two-gallon ziploc bag, with the front toward the closed end. You can get both hands into the bag and can watch what you're doing. When the spring and detent fly out, which they will, they go about an inch and are right where your hand is. Saves looking all over for the damn detent, then waiting for the one you had to order to show up.
1911fan
.....yeah, I like ARs too.
Thanks to everyone for their great and CONSTRUCTIVE input, I resolved the issue and in the process got a new castle nut so I could stake the receiver extension (buffer tube). Again, thanks a lot guys!
If you have a set of drill bits slide one thru the hole that you are trying to drive the roll pin into. The drill bit or pin lines up the parts then use a punch to drive the roll pin into the hole while it pushes the drill bit or pin out.
Proper punches and roll pins cut to length make the job easier.
Proper punches and roll pins cut to length make the job easier.
^^^^^thats what I was just thinking? WTF man? Why are you staking your castle nut? ive ASSEMBLED i dont know how many ARs and havent staked any castle nuts ever and there has never been a problem with my own or anyone elses ive helped assemble an AR.
I used to stick just a hair of the roll pin in a vise and pinch one end. Drives in easy and then peen it out a bit when it's in the hole
I chamfer is basically a bevel that goes from one surface to the other. Think of the shoulder on a cartridge, and if it was flat after the step down to bullet diameter. Basically file a little off the edge of the flat of the pin.
Best investment I ever made.
http://www.amazon.com/Weaver-Deluxe...&qid=1363840391&sr=8-3&keywords=ar15+tool+kit
http://www.amazon.com/Weaver-Deluxe...&qid=1363840391&sr=8-3&keywords=ar15+tool+kit
It's added insurance to ensure that your AR is reliable and combat-ready, you'd be awful upset if you were in the middle of something and your buttstock came loose. For the time it takes to do it, there's really no reason not to stake it.
-matt
Glad you got the forward assist figured out. On the topic of the castle nut.....try the Hammerhead Rifle Tool when removing or installing the receiver extension lock ring(castle nut). I've been using this tool for awhile and it works really well.
-Len
-Len
also, my castle nut doesn't have a spot to throw a stake in her.fucking assholes
Make them with a file, real easy to do.
