Rifle Scopes This has got me scratching my head

ZLBubba

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Minuteman
Jan 15, 2009
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Maryland
Man, this has not been a good weekend in terms of my gun projects. First I had a squib on a 45ACP round that fortunately I was able to fix. Now, I've got an issue mounting a Premier Heritage 3-15 on my GAP-10. Here are the issues:

First off, all I'm doing is boresighting for my range session next week. I've had the PH since 2010 and it's served me well on a couple bolt guns. Due to recent acquisitions, I've had to switch around some of my scopes between the bolts and semis. All of my other scope/rifle combos have worked out great, but now I've got a strange issue.

I have tried Badger 34MM SASR rings and the GAP-10 20MOA one piece rings on my GAP-10 with the PH and I'll be damned if there's not enough room to in the elevation to sight in ON THE HIGH SIDE. I've got way too much elevation with both options. The only time I actually came close was when I, no shit, turned the scope around in the 20MOA GAP mount and put the 20MOA mount on backwards. I was still about 5-8 MOA short, but I was a hell of a lot closer than anything else I've tried.

As I understand it, the GAP-10 rail is a 0 MOA rail, and most LR scopes are calibrated for 20MOA bases since they're going to be used to shoot at distance and people need the most elevation they can get. I thought the Badger rings were 0 MOA and thus would be fine to use since I wouldn't need the elevation. Not so. Both the 20MOA GAP mount and the Badger rings had too much elevation and thus the scope couldn't be centered. Here's the kicker, with the 50mm OBJ on the PH, I don't know how much shorter I can go on the rings and still get clearance.

Ideas?
 
So is the reticle "low" relative to the target or do you want to dial "up" on the turrets (like for making a correction for long range)?

If the first is the case, you are hitting the zero stop and need to loosen the lever lock, spin the turret to 10 mils or however far ou need to go, close the lever lock and you're able to dial so the reticle moves "up" relative to the target when looking through the bore.

If the second is the case I have no idea what's going on.
 
It looks like the zero stop was the issue. I've backed the turret off enough that there's a ton of room for me to make the finer adjustments the next time I'm at the range. Still, this reminds me why some (very wise) people only use the same brand of scope on all their rigs. I haven't touched the ZS since 2010 and that was the culprit.
 
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