Sidearms & Scatterguns Any advice on my knife design

TheSolitaryTraveller

TheSolitaryTraveller

Private
Full Member
Minuteman
May 25, 2013
27
0
#1
NOTE: This topic I created a few days back and it only got posted today, over that time i finished the design and updated this post accordingly. Input is still welcome.

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Dwm2013-05-2604-40-53-44.jpg

Dwm2013-05-2604-25-04-52.jpg

Dwm2013-05-2604-14-26-50.jpg

Dwm2013-05-2604-27-40-68.jpg


Link to video on the design is in my signature, note I'm not very good at making videos or talking well not having a conversation.

Specs:
-Blade length: 8"
-Blade width: 1.81"
-Blade thickness: 0.25"
-Handle Length: 4.5"
-Handle width: 1.25"
-Handle thickness: 0.75"
-Overall length: 13"
-Possible Steel: 5160 spring steel
-Handle material: Micarta or G10
-Estimated Weight: +- 1.40 LB

Features:
* A bellied primary edge that extends out 0.31" for improved chopping performance.
* Hollowed out handle for reduced weight and possible storage space for small items.
* Aggressive gimping and slight finger groove for improved grip, in case grip is hard to maintain.
* 0.25" thick blade made of 5160 spring steel for extreme levels of durability and strength.
* G10 or Micarta handles for reliable grip and resistance to wear.
* Tanto blade shape for high level of penetration in case a stupid situation arises.
* Lanyard hole for 550 cord

Last notes: As of now i'm unable to build a prototype of this blade since I don't have the proper tools to make it myself or the money to have someone make it. Anyways some point down the road I hope i'll be able to do the real development stages, thus get a few prototypes built and tested and so forth.
 
Last edited:
#3
I didn't expect this to be posted considering i made this like 3 days ago and never saw it appear. Also I kinda finished my design, only thing left would be advance stages of development thus prototyping and testing it. But I currently don't have the tools to do it currently myself, nor do I have the money to have someone build them for me.

Anyways heres the specs on the finished design and a few pictures of the 3d model.

Specs:
-Blade length: 8"
-Blade width: 1.81"
-Blade thickness: 0.25"
-Handle Length: 4.5"
-Handle width: 1.25"
-Handle thickness: 0.75"
-Overall length: 13"
-Possible Steel: 5160 spring steel
-Handle material: Micarta or G10
-Estimated Weight: +- 1.40 LB

Features:
* A bellied primary edge that extends out 0.31" for improved chopping performance.
* Hollowed out handle for reduced weight and possible storage space for small items.
* Aggressive gimping and slight finger groove for improved grip, in case grip is hard to maintain.
* 0.25" thick blade made of 5160 spring steel for extreme levels of durability and strength.
* G10 or Micarta handles for reliable grip and resistance to wear.
* Tanto blade shape for high level of penetration in case a stupid situation arises.
* Lanyard hole for 550 cord

3D Model
Finish Tanto Slideshow by IvanKesja723 | Photobucket
 
#4
I prefer grips that actually contour to the hand rather than holding onto a 2x2. When you're chopping and whatnot, it sure reduces stress, increases grip and is much safer and more effective. I'm not a fan of tanto blades, but to each their own.
 
#5
Nice to see somebody give man's oldest tool this much thought.

Which brings me to Rule #1 "When a person designs a knife they like for themselves, who cares what anybody else thinks about it! They like it!"

Having said that, since you asked...if I begin to piss you off, re-read Rule #1 and stop reading my notes!

1. Bellied blades - Bellied blades have nothing to do with chopping. If it did, ever axe you would see would have....right....a heavy bellied blade! Chopping is best done with a stout grind on a reasonably straight edge and done about 1/4 way from the tip, where all the weight, speed and leverage can be found. Bellied blades are used for fine motor skill controlled cutting. We use a bellied design to "capture" material behind the belly and the Ricasso/heel/etc. so we can work it back and forth. Now if is chopping you want, one of the best designs is rarely done anymore because of the general expense of the formed blank. The Natchez River Knives used a hundred years ago as the means to quickly cut away hauser lines from river barges were developed to chop like non other. Want to see the earliest forms of the Bowie...well that is were you would have found them...on the Natchez...just like Bowie did. Here the blade thickness is "leaded" to provide huge mechanical advantage right at the point of "chop". You rarely see these now as noboby wants to form the blanks. I designed one for W.W.Wood decades ago for the Texas rehash. What a blade.



2. Tanto points - Ninja's loved them! Good penetration! Easy to form! especially when steel was rare, hardened steel rarer and blades were produced with hardened steel on the edge because of a whole host of reasons that thankfully nobody has had to worry about since ....well since 1680. Best penetrating point? Nope....not so. Why? Well first off a thrust with a Tanto rides up the leading edge and will not stay in center trust. Will it penetrate? Yep. As well as a balanced point between a sharpened lower main blade and sharpened upper clip/drop point? Nope...not even close. Lastly, that the transition you see on your blade where the tanto turns into your belly will be the highest wear, highest "catch point" pita of your design. Want to keep the tanto? get rid of the transition angle completely. Stare at it long enough and you should have already seen the issue. That was the reason in the SS series, I designed the "tanto ish" leading edge to ride right back into the main edge. You get huge penetration (specs called for penetrating 55 drums) huge strength and the ability to use the tool as a breaking bar with no chance of tip damage. Tanto's usually endge up having a single side grind. The knives you see below were ground one doth sides in one of the most elaborate set-ups wo date. Tanto? tip gone in 3 seconds.






3. Top thumb rider - I like that you allowed for cross hatching to keep your thumb from moving forward under heavy load. But for knife that size, it is simply not enough if you expect any thrusting. Add some slight physical rise there to allow the thumb to "press" forward rather than just try and hang on. That active region is actually important for fine work as one controls all fine rotation with the thumb.

Here is the #1 prototype for a blade you might have seen...

A couple of examples...



Good luck!

don't forget the bottle opener....
 
#6
What you said about the belly, I find interesting since if the mass is the same but the surface area that strike is less that should equal more force thus increase efficiency of each strike. Thou I know this means more wear is placed onto that point, and because of the belly the overall effectiveness of the blade at stabbing is reduced.
Now the reason for the tanto is because i'm use to handling the tanto design also because for me atleast it seems like I have to pay more attention when using a tanto which I feel is beneficial in a blade meant for outdoors use.
As for having the gimping being raised and angled, I did consider that since it does greatly improve the effectiveness of the gimping. But The reason why I didn't add it is because I feel it's not necessary, considering even if your hand slips in a stab your hand shouldn't move forwards do to the blade catch being in the way. Thus the gimping thats there should be more than enough when other parts are in play, thou alone it's good but not great.


Also that blade with the flat tip i've seen quite a few pictures of those before but I just don't see the appeal, since it seems like it has the normal features but just lacks the ability to be effective in a stab. Thou i guess it would be pretty good at prying and work rather well as a chisel.
 
#7
TheSolitaryTraveller said:
NOTE: This topic I created a few days back and it only got posted today, over that time i finished the design and updated this post accordingly. Input is still welcome.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dwm2013-05-2604-40-53-44.jpg

Dwm2013-05-2604-25-04-52.jpg

Dwm2013-05-2604-14-26-50.jpg

Dwm2013-05-2604-27-40-68.jpg


Link to video on the design is in my signature, note I'm not very good at making videos or talking well not having a conversation.

Specs:
-Blade length: 8"
-Blade width: 1.81"
-Blade thickness: 0.25"
-Handle Length: 4.5"
-Handle width: 1.25"
-Handle thickness: 0.75"
-Overall length: 13"
-Possible Steel: 5160 spring steel
-Handle material: Micarta or G10
-Estimated Weight: +- 1.40 LB

Features:
* A bellied primary edge that extends out 0.31" for improved chopping performance.
* Hollowed out handle for reduced weight and possible storage space for small items.
* Aggressive gimping and slight finger groove for improved grip, in case grip is hard to maintain.
* 0.25" thick blade made of 5160 spring steel for extreme levels of durability and strength.
* G10 or Micarta handles for reliable grip and resistance to wear.
* Tanto blade shape for high level of penetration in case a stupid situation arises.
* Lanyard hole for 550 cord

Last notes: As of now i'm unable to build a prototype of this blade since I don't have the proper tools to make it myself or the money to have someone make it. Anyways some point down the road I hope i'll be able to do the real development stages, thus get a few prototypes built and tested and so forth.
Click to expand...

I could work with it. It kind of reminds me of a Tanto on steroids.
 
#9
Yeah it's a weird illusion, that messed with me well i was making the model because i kept thinking I messed something up.

But ya it's a heftier tanto meant to take unholy amount of abuse, well atleast it should be able to. But I wanted it that way because i don't baby my gear, because If I'm not confident in gears ability to take abuse I consider it trash, since tools are meant to be used both correctly and incorrectly
 
#11
#12
Well dont be I had High aspirations of being the next Kit carson of Knife making. Bought a very expensive well made belt grinder, Built a forge, read everything I could get my hands on about heat treat, design, and building....... And then I found long range shooting.... and haven't made a knife in 2 years...
 
#14
docdredd said:
Doing a distal Taper of the full tang would cut some serious weight out of it, as well as give it more of a blade heavy balance for more chopping power see link for example.
Click to expand...


You know the distal taper affects balance so much and so many of the high dollar customs I see posted don't have it. I never say anything and I'm glad you spoke up.

To the OP I think you did well but for the next go round in agree 110% with throwing in some taper.


Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2
 
#15
right now the program the model was created in, says the center of a mass is like about 1 inch in front of the handle. That is without the distal taper, which to me really is just right thou that taper idea I might use in the future.
 
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