Annealing. Is it necessary for everyone?

LawDog101

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Dec 15, 2010
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I currently run Hornady Match brass through my savage 10fp. 175 SMK's and 180 SST's run right around 2700 average with 43gn Varget and Win WLR primers.

I FL size when I reload and I have had not any issues with sizing or with velocity consistency (last string of 20 in 100 degree heat had a max velocity difference of 51, but averaged <15 shot to shot). No primer problems or sizing issues. I trim to 2.006 if necessary after sizing.

Only issues I have had are with a couple of primers getting a little loose and a couple that stretched a ton (both get pitched).

Gun is very accurate when I do my part. Now that I have several reloads on much of brass, 7-8 on some 3-4 on others, I am curious if I need to anneal the brass?

I do not shoot competitions, F Class, etc. but we do have a long range with steel (out to 1200) that we practice on.

If I am getting reliable chambering after sizing and no other brass issues like odd stretching, primers, etc., is annealing something I need to focus on?

Always great information here. Thanks.

LD
 
Yes annealing is necessary if you want accuracy. Its about even neck tension on the bullet.

In my Remmy SPS Tac .308 my groups open up if I don't anneal the brass.
 
I anneal my benchrest every 5 reload cycles. It keeps the neck metal soft and pliable. That way you get the same neck tension form shot to shot. Differences change the chamber pressure and muzzle velocity. You don't want that if you are trying to shoot close groups.
 
What is the old saying about flossing teeth? Only floss the ones you want to keep?
Anneal? Only the brass you want to keep.
It isn't as hard as some make it out to be and you don't need a fancy machine for great results. A cheap torch, a drill, and a suitable socket to hold the brass, will give fantastic results with just a few minutes practice.
 
I noticed as I shot my brass accuracy degraded, so after spend big bucks on my Gen2 Prometheus Scale, knowing that my all my pills were seated by the same Ojive measurement, neck turning, that annealing was required, I anneal for consistency, my ES/SD improved to less than 10 for more than 250 rounds, my 500 yard groups shrank, my seating force(yes I measure that) is far more consistent. I made my own annealing machine, thank you JMorris for the plans, only when I had a machine doing the annealing did I have the consistency I was after, my machine is not perfect, I'm going to add either a motor or pulley system to turn the cases, but it's 1000 times better than doing it with a drill and counting in my head, so spend the money and get a machine to do it for you, I recommend the the Bench Source.
 
I don't think I can add much. The question was is it 'necessary'... well no, not absolutely. You could shoot them until your accuracy goes away, or the necks split and then toss 'em. Start over, repeat.

However, if you want to build precision ammo, and if you want as consistent results as possible, then YES it is necessary. As others have said, it's not some black magic funky voodoo, and a cheapie propane torch will do just fine.
 
I don't think I can add much. The question was is it 'necessary'... well no, not absolutely. You could shoot them until your accuracy goes away, or the necks split and then toss 'em. Start over, repeat.

However, if you want to build precision ammo, and if you want as consistent results as possible, then YES it is necessary. As others have said, it's not some black magic funky voodoo, and a cheapie propane torch will do just fine.

THIS. Its pretty easy to do and if your worried about over cooking your brass (especially when you're starting out) you can pick up some temp indicating paste.
 
I don't anneal MYSELF. But I have 2 friends that do it for me. I give them a pound of powder or box of bullets for the trouble. If I have them separated by lot for one reason or another, keep them separated in zip lock bags. And ask them to keep them like you give them to that person. MOST shooters are glad to help. If it's someone you might not know that well ask if you can stay and watch. Then YOU keep them separated.

Good luck.
Victor
 
I noticed as I shot my brass accuracy degraded, so after spend big bucks on my Gen2 Prometheus Scale, knowing that my all my pills were seated by the same Ojive measurement, neck turning, that annealing was required, I anneal for consistency, my ES/SD improved to less than 10 for more than 250 rounds, my 500 yard groups shrank, my seating force(yes I measure that) is far more consistent. I made my own annealing machine, thank you JMorris for the plans, only when I had a machine doing the annealing did I have the consistency I was after, my machine is not perfect, I'm going to add either a motor or pulley system to turn the cases, but it's 1000 times better than doing it with a drill and counting in my head, so spend the money and get a machine to do it for you, I recommend the the Bench Source.

I couldn't find a "Bench Source" annealer. Here is the one I ordered 3 weeks ago (12 week backlog) New Page 1
 
I couldn't find a "Bench Source" annealer.

OK, I found it. Yeah, that looks pretty neat, it looks a lot like the Grizzly annealing machine. On the other hand, you have to feed it one case at a time. When I get my Giraud, while I cannot leave it completely unattended, it appears that I should be able to load up several hundred cases, sit back with an adult beverage and watch it do the work.
 
THIS. Its pretty easy to do and if your worried about over cooking your brass (especially when you're starting out) you can pick up some temp indicating paste.

This again.

Not needed by everyone, but if you're doing something where velocity spread matters, have brass that's expensive to buy or time consuming to prep, and reload the same cases many times, you might like what an annealer does for you. I backed into it by starting with the Hornady kit.

I used to do my 300 whisper cases by hand after forming them from 223 using the Hornady kit. I finally broke down and bought the Grizzly and some more Templaq. I was having some frustration getting the velocity spread down with a 5.56 load using LC brass that had only been fired twice. 10 shot spread went from 103 to 27, SD from 30 to 8.

If you're going to do load development with some form of ladder testing, there is no point in it until you have the velocity spread under control.
 
Im on my 5th firing of Hornady 6 Creed brass, groups at 600yds are getting smaller, 3.59" best so far this last match, but the wind let up from the 2 previous matches, too. Using a 270 bushing, the 30 I seated yesterday seemed very consistent. Ill send em off to get annealed after they all have 5 firings on them.
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