Rifle Scopes Help troubleshoot my us optics zero

S

Spydr

Private
Full Member
Minuteman
Aug 18, 2013
12
0
#1
Ok first post so be easy on me.


I have a us optics scope ER-25 5-25xT 58 mm T-PAL 34mm tube in mil scale GAP
I have it mounted on a timberwolf with a 25 moa rail (supposedly) I have followed the the Erek knob video on the US optics website. But here is my problem. My bullet placement is 4.5 mils low. And the only way to come up is with the Erek knob because the center screw is already maxed out.

Will a 35 moa rail fix this problem or should i be looking at re-centering the erector or am I doing something wrong?
 
#2
I'm really not trying to sound like a jerk but are you sure that the rail is mounted correctly? Meaning that the slope is toward the barrel?
 
#4
With that out of the way hopefully someone with US Optics experience will be in here shortly to help you get this straightened out, good luck.
 
#6
Are you sure that the EREK knob is as high as it can go and NOT as low as it can go (in other words, have you mixed up the directions)?

The EREK knob is designed to be about 3-5 MILS LOW on the bottom of its travel with a canted base (20moa or 30moa down base). If you are not mixing these up and its indeed as high as it will go, you need to contact USO.
 
#7
Spydr said:
Ok first post so be easy on me.


I have a us optics scope ER-25 5-25xT 58 mm T-PAL 34mm tube in mil scale GAP
I have it mounted on a timberwolf with a 25 moa rail (supposedly) I have followed the the Erek knob video on the US optics website. But here is my problem. My bullet placement is 4.5 mils low. And the only way to come up is with the Erek knob because the center screw is already maxed out.

Will a 35 moa rail fix this problem or should i be looking at re-centering the erector or am I doing something wrong?
Click to expand...

A few preliminary questions, sorry if they sound stupid but I want to make sure I understand what steps you have already taken:

1. Are you sure you centered the reticle, did you use a bore site like in the video?
2. you are 4.5 mils low at 100 while tying to zero, did you pull the bolt and eyeball it onto tgt and compare it to the reticle prior to shooting?
3. When you say the screw is maxed out, is it maxed out clockwise or counter clockwise?
4. Are you sure the rail is 25 MOA, could it be more?
 
#8
JD Why does the EREK knob need to be screwed all the way up? That doesn't make any sense to me..

PZ3
1. No I did not.
2. No I did not.
3. Counter clockwise
4. Yes. well pretty sure that's whats listed on PGW website if its was more however we wouldn't be having this conversation.

The center screw is maxed counter clockwise and the EREK knob is clockwise all the way than I gave it 5 clicks clockwise and that's where I want to start zeroing it. I fired my first shot and its low. Not high like in the US Optics video. With the center screw already maxed out counter clockwise or the elevation up at max. I can not go up with the center screw anymore.

Now there is a zero line on the scope that EREK knob uses but mine EREK knobs goes under that to the line below it. If that helps you guys help me. I noticed in the video that the scope on the video did not go under that line. Cause really if the EREK knob stopped at the zero it would be perfect.

hope that helps
 
#9
ok how about this since I seem to have found the problem, when I go all the way up on the Erek knob the cross hairs stop moving approx. 15.7 mils before max
 
#11
This will sound different from the video but it comes from USO and I think it's the fastest way to get you sorted out. follow these steps:

EREK knob:

First you want to make sure you're on your target by looking down the bore of the
rifle.

1) Turn your EREK Knob all the way counter clockwise

2) Turn your center screw all the way counter clockwise

3) Looking through the scope at your target hold the EREK knob still and
turn the center screw clockwise just until the erector starts to move and
then stop

4) Take out the Allen key, looking at your target turn the knob clockwise
until you get to your 100 yard zero

5) Loosen the top 2 screws and set your knob back to 0 on the knob.

I hope this helps and doesn't confuse you more. The ideal way to do this
would be to have a bore sighter.

Please let me know if you would like to send it in or if you have any
questions while trying to do this.

Best regards,

Becky Rodieck
Customer Service/Sales
U.S. Optics, Inc.
150 Arovista Circle
Brea, CA 92821
(714) 582-1956 Ext 203
(714) 582-1959 Fax
U.S. OPTICS - Engineered for Extreme Performance
 
#12
Oh Becky,
I remember you I was the one that drove there from Canada last month with the kids.

Anyway so after looking through the scope and checking my windage and centering the windage counting only the clicks that moved I re-centered that with half the available clicks.
Than doing what you suggested up top my EREK knobbed actually stopped 1 click from where I had it set as in my EREK knob stopped 1 click from where I had it set only I no longer have the 45 clicks down from where I had it set, im gonna field test this now. if the elevation part works I can leave it alone and get a bore sighter to move my scopes mounts in order to get my windage correct.
Thanks
Robert Brown
 
#13
Spydr said:
Oh Becky,
I remember you I was the one that drove there from Canada last month with the kids.

Anyway so after looking through the scope and checking my windage and centering the windage counting only the clicks that moved I re-centered that with half the available clicks.
Than doing what you suggested up top my EREK knobbed actually stopped 1 click from where I had it set as in my EREK knob stopped 1 click from where I had it set only I no longer have the 45 clicks down from where I had it set, im gonna field test this now. if the elevation part works I can leave it alone and get a bore sighter to move my scopes mounts in order to get my windage correct.
Thanks
Robert Brown
Click to expand...


Dude, I'm not Becky. The response I posted is from her on a similar issue that she responded to on how to fix the problem.


I am not quite following what you said you have done but it sounds like your EREk knob is working for you now. If you look down the bore of your rifle at your target and then look at you scopes crosshairs and they are level with the point of aim but the windage is off, dial the windage so that everything lines up and then shoot to see where your rounds are hitting. Make adjustments as needed to get point of aim point of impact, then Slip your knobs back to zero
 
#14
Oh. Sorry bout that. That made things worse. It took two complete revolutions on the centre screw clockwise to get the cross hairs to move though the the Erek knob stops on 0 line the rifle now shoots 8.5 mils low. And screwing the the centre screw counter clockwise does not make the crosshairs come up at all. All it does is allow the Erek knob come down rather than stay at its stop point. Which is weird.
 
#15
You are not following the instructions I posted above if you used the Allen key to rotate the crosshairs. Pay close attention to line #3

3) Looking through the scope at your target hold the EREK knob still and
turn the center screw clockwise just until the erector starts to move and
then stop


Chances are very good your knob(s) won't line up on zero. You need to slip the knobs to zero AFTER you confirm your zero. Until then, it really doesn't mean anything where they line up.
 
#16
Yes PZ3 I did that.

I understand quit clear what your saying. I did exactly that what I am saying is it took two revolutions to get the crosshairs to move. (holding the EREK knob still at max counter clockwise with the center screw and than turning the center screw in clockwise)
What I am saying is it still shoots low. Real low. and though I can move the center screw counterclockwise it does nothing to bring my crosshairs up.

I think you misunderstood what I said last. I had my rifle zeroed and I had 4.5 MILS of down elevation. Not at zero stop, when I did as you said that 4.5 MILS of travel was no longer there. It was at zero stop. So that's good. until I shot. its 8.5 MILS low. What I was trying to convey was if I hold the EREK knob and screw the EREK knob counter clockwise now the cross hairs don't move. I cant bring my shot up.
 
#17
OK, I am not following you. You are referring to the EREK knob and the center Allen screw as the same thing.

1.Rotate BOTH the EREK knob and the allen screw counter clockwise as seen while behind the weapon until they stop.Pull your bolt out and eyeball sight your bore on the 100meter/yard target. make sure it stays there using your rear bag/adjusting your bipod,etc.


2. Looking through the scope, Turn the Allen key CLOCKWISE, while holding the EREK knob stationary, just until you see it start to move. Once you see it start to move STOP. Remove Allen key

3. Looking through the scope, using the EREK knob, turn it clockwise while looking at your 100 meter/yard target until it lines up with the target. Re-Check that your bore is still lined up with the target and where the crosshairs are.

4. Looking through your scope, if the windage is off, adjust it until the crosshairs are lined up on the target. Once this is done, insert bolt back into rifle and shoot the weapon.Observe impacts on target

5 using either the EREK and or windage knob make adjustments fire more rounds to confirm that point of aim is point of impact.

6. loosen the 2ea small screws on the top of the EREK knob and slip your knob to the Zero mark on the body. Do the same for windage.

That should have you sorted out now.
 
#18
No I am not referring to both of them as the same thing.

When you follow the directions center screw counter clockwise and EREk Knob clockwise and than when you line up your crosshairs adjust the center screw clockwise to bring your PO impact down to your 100 yards or meters in my case. (Giving your EREK knob say 5 clicks counter clockwise so you have some down elevation, tiny bit but something). Well my impact is 4.5 MILS already to low.

Doing what you say is pretty much the same problem. I WANT to use my zero stop. That's why I bought it. I can zero the rifle just fine I just have a hell of a lot of down elevation left in my EREK knob.

OK SO I turned the EREK Knob counter clockwise and the center screw separately counter clockwise til it also stopped, not as the same thing.

2. Looking through the scope, Turn the Allen key CLOCKWISE, while holding the EREK knob stationary, just until you see it start to move. Once you see it start to move STOP. Remove Allen key

This one here check! What I am sayin is it took 2 full revolutions turning the allen key clockwise while I held the EREK knob stationary to get the crosshairs to move.

3. Looking through the scope, using the EREK knob, turn it clockwise while looking at your 100 meter/yard target until it lines up with the target. Re-Check that your bore is still lined up with the target and where the crosshairs are.

Fine but now I HAVE 8 MILS of down elevation left in my EREK knob before it hits the zero stop. As in 80 clicks clockwise.
 
#20
It was zeroed before. But with only 45 clicks to zero stop. Are you saying I need and 40 moa rail to compensate my 45 clicks to get closer to the zero stop?
 
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