Savage 110 BA 338L price check
- Thread starter steve123
- Start date
probably not much less then the original owner paid, depending on how much their needing the cash. my advice would be take the money you would spend on that + some and hit the for sale section
In some states I'd say it might be worth more. Potentially no paperwork for the used buyer. I know guys that refuse to buy new rifles because they don't want to be "on the books". For no other reason than to not be on a "list", they could purchase new legally if they wanted to, they just don't.
there is a shitload of these for sale on the boards, GB, arms list etc and they are not moving - read the reviews and you will see why - the ones being sold are usually the problem children so anyone who actually wants to move one would need to give a significant discount - if you are looking to buy one used I would insist on test firing
About their weight in steel. Seriously.
I love savages, two of my precision rifles are built on their actions. But savage got something terribly wrong when they decided to chamber their rifles in the Lapua.
Google "110ba problems" "savage Lapua stuck bolt", stuff like that. The reading should keep you busy for a full day. I'm not an internet junkie. I speak from personal experience. My 110 ba was a bolt sticking 2-3 MOA rifle at best.
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My buddy has one, not big on the chassis. The bedding area and recoil lug area is pretty so-so. Now having said that his had no problems with hornady ammo, which is usually the problem in the 110's. I worked up loads with lapua brass h1000, and 300gr smk. It will drive nails, 3 shot groups in the .3-.4s and 5 shot groups hovering around 1/2 moa or slightly above. If i was going to buy a savage 338 lm it would be the 110 hs precision model. Better stock that could be bedded, cheaper to boot. Probably put a bo fte on it, the factory brake works decent but not as good as a fte.
The major issue with the BA series, itself is the fact that they "bend the barrels to perfection"...It's actually even part of their advertising...I didn't see it at first but, my barrel was noticeably off.
The barrel on my 10BA LE was actually torqued to the side @ 10* -- So much, it wouldn't fit in a normal chassis...Was also 3-4 MOA on a GOOD day.
Replaced the barrel with a McGowen, it's now a sub MOA shooter. -- Wasted SO MUCH AMMO thinking it was me when, in fact, the moment my gunsmith took the barreled action off the chassis; "Oh, that's crooked as hell"...
When I called them about the issue, I was told it'd be 2-3 months for a replacement...Replacing the barrel took me just as long.
The barrel nut cracked in half as well...
Good gun when it works but, in my experience, it didn't until I shelled out @ $500.
The barrel on my 10BA LE was actually torqued to the side @ 10* -- So much, it wouldn't fit in a normal chassis...Was also 3-4 MOA on a GOOD day.
Replaced the barrel with a McGowen, it's now a sub MOA shooter. -- Wasted SO MUCH AMMO thinking it was me when, in fact, the moment my gunsmith took the barreled action off the chassis; "Oh, that's crooked as hell"...
When I called them about the issue, I was told it'd be 2-3 months for a replacement...Replacing the barrel took me just as long.
The barrel nut cracked in half as well...
Good gun when it works but, in my experience, it didn't until I shelled out @ $500.
Werks, I know you had a bad experience with your BA but others have not, myself being one of those. My BA has been a half moa rifle from the get go. The majority of problems with these rifles has been from soft brass. A switch to properly trimmed Lapua b4ass takes care of this problem. The other issue is stuck cases from running hot loads, Nothing an inexpensive chamber polishing would not cure. $4 $ I couldn't be happier with my BA which I take out to a mile regularly hitting a 24x24 inch piece of steel.
If you couldn't see a bent barrel that was so bad it would not seat in a stock/chassis something has to be said for that????
Diego
If you couldn't see a bent barrel that was so bad it would not seat in a stock/chassis something has to be said for that????
Diego
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Agreed, soft brass such as Hornady is rarely a good match for the 110BA but switch to Lapua and it works. A good friend of mine has a 110BA .338 (actually now for sale, as he recently purchased a SAC .338) and I have seen this rifle delivering consistently, from 100 yards one hole, to 2000 yards on a 2'x3' target. As often in factory rifles, you may get a good one, or not; this is why many shooters go the custom way but more $$ and the wait, your choice. Another option is to go AI, Sako, Surgeon and a few others, good rifles, more $$.
To sum it up, most 110BA owners are happy with their rifles but, as mentioned above, there are a few not so good.
Good luck.
Yeah, I switched to Lapua brass. It helped with stuck cases a little, as in I no longer had to run a rod down the barrel and punch brass out, but I still had to slam the bolt to lift it with anything over 88gr retumbo, and it never shot better than 1.5 MOA. I know that some are happy with their 110 ba, but many are not and are having the exact same issues as I had. So is it worth the risk? To do another 338 on the cheap I'd buy the 110hs and use the money I saved to buy a match barrel for it right off the bat.
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That would not be a bad way to go if the barrel was a stinker! I figured the 42 was th3 338 that all.should m
Be measured by. So if you get a bad BA wnd needed a new tube you would be in $2400, the least expensive 42 was $3200 still an $800 difference. If the original savage tube needed a lapp and chamber polish you would be ahead a grand, after all half moa is half moa regardless of which rifle produce s it.
Diego
Be measured by. So if you get a bad BA wnd needed a new tube you would be in $2400, the least expensive 42 was $3200 still an $800 difference. If the original savage tube needed a lapp and chamber polish you would be ahead a grand, after all half moa is half moa regardless of which rifle produce s it.
Diego
