Getting started Reloading questions .308

S

SOE_technician

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Sep 30, 2013
163
0
Boro/Nash
#1
Hello SH,

Been shooting just over a year now consistently working to improve and build fundamentals. Started with a Tikka T3 lite in 308 now have a Savage 10 FCP SR,5R 1:11.25 , 22 in Barrel .

SOO To get the most of out it I want to start reloading since I do feel I am Darn good with FGMM175 and BLack Hills Gold 178 out to 645yds as of December 20th which was a rainy windy day here in TN .

My question is how ot go about getting started ? a started kit with few extra things or by only desired equipment each separately. ? my main reason as I said is I want to search out the highest level of accuracy possible and this will take work I realize. I entered my first tactical match for next summer to give me time to improve but dont want to waste time or money. Thanks to all I have read so many things on SH and it definitely cut my learning time down.


DSC00942.jpg
 
#2
I just started recently myself and I do enjoy the experience. Many suggested I go with a kit but I personally feel that you can piece together better equipment by buying separately. The kit will indeed save you money though. As you buy better equipment you typically spend more money. Such is life. A good press for reloading accurate ammo is the Forster Co-Ax which is single stage (the type of press recommended by most for a beginner) and the Forster is highly regarded as one of the best single stage presses to purchase if you want to produce highly accurate ammo. Now is a good time for you to get a Forster since there is a Sniper Hide group buy going on right now. Check the group buy section.
 
#3
Oneshotkill said:
I just started recently myself and I do enjoy the experience. Many suggested I go with a kit but I personally feel that you can piece together better equipment by buying separately. The kit will indeed save you money though. As you buy better equipment you typically spend more money. Such is life. A good press for reloading accurate ammo is the Forster Co-Ax which is single stage (the type of press recommended by most for a beginner) and the Forster is highly regarded as one of the best single stage presses to purchase if you want to produce highly accurate ammo. Now is a good time for you to get a Forster since there is a Sniper Hide group buy going on right now. Check the group buy section.
Click to expand...

thanks for the reply, Yea the kits do seem very cost efficient but for high precision I see buying once and higher quality equipment probably more advantageous. The match I entered max range is 1040 on a 36 inch gong . So for my .308 I will need to know eaxactly how it flies and have good stuff bullet, case, powder etc.. I am excited to get started I hear many good things about handloading your own stuff.
 
#4
This is always a tough choice, kit or pieces. I think people should get a Rockchucker kit as they are the bench standard. That being said, for precision shooters, you will probably want to upgrade some of the items included in the kit, except the press. But it will get you going and you will learn how it is done. Precision shooting requires several items that are not included anyway, competition dies, annealing, primer pocket uniformers, concentricity gauges etc. Depends how far you want to go. A lot of very accurate ammo has been loaded with this equipment.
 
#5
witchhunter said:
This is always a tough choice, kit or pieces. I think people should get a Rockchucker kit as they are the bench standard. That being said, for precision shooters, you will probably want to upgrade some of the items included in the kit, except the press. But it will get you going and you will learn how it is done. Precision shooting requires several items that are not included anyway, competition dies, annealing, primer pocket uniformers, concentricity gauges etc. Depends how far you want to go. A lot of very accurate ammo has been loaded with this equipment.
Click to expand...

Thanks for adding to the thread. yea im definitely trying to gather all the information I can. Rockchucker single was the press I am eyeing and trying to decide on Dies, tumbler, priming tool( handheld) , digital powder distributor, primer pocket uniformer, case trimer,case deburring tools, spray lube, powder, and of course projectiles,
 
#7
The first piece of equipment I'd buy would be a smokeless powder manufacturing company. Sigh.

(sorry for the smartass response, but reloading components have been a wee bit hard to find for the past 4 years or so... particularly in the last 12 months)
 
#8
Rock Chucker is good but if you can find one a Forster Co-Ax is the way to go. Easy change out of dies and you don't have to buy shell plates. Priming station is part of the press and has a good feel when seating primers. I've had three different RCBS presses over 30 years of reloading. I'm not bashing them but I would recommend the Co-Ax first. If you want to go progressive buy a Dillon. I reload .45 acp, .38 super and .223 on my Dillon XL650 and it's crazy fast at spitting out ammo.
 
#9
Great ?. I am by no means as qualified as the majority of this group...... My 2 cents:
I got got the RCBS kit. Out of that kit (after progressing thru the learning curve). I only use the lube. Kit and press.
The dies: I wish from the start I would have gone with a competition set. From the beginning. You start w/ FL sizing and progress to neck sizing. Then you buy gauges to really figure out your seating depth and realize you need a seating die with a micrometer.
You realize that a good digital scale is a lot faster than the scale that came with the set. You get OCD about the grains / load and have to get it correct down to the 0.01 grains.
But Hey, that's the fun if it. Always chasing that hole in one at 1000 yards.

Just my 2 cents Good luck.


Trauma1
 
#10
I just started reloading myself. Got the Hornaday kit and RCBS Competition dies, but have found the Lee Collet dies in 260 & 308 to really simplify things. Deprime and adjust neck tension without lube in one step. Clean primer pocket and prime. Add load and then seat the bullet with second die. Done! Consistent every time and perfect on concentricity guage. With new brass just add a small amout of campher​ at the opening to allow easy bullet seating. May not have all the right terms down yet!
 
#12
Redding competition seater dies are the standard for most guys. Bushing dies are for the more experienced but if you can shoot, they are adjustable where most dies are not. the problem with buying pieces right off the bat is you really don't know what is the best for your type of shooting. This will take experience and trial and error. That being said up front, Redding competition seater and s type bushing dies are a good start. Use Lapua brass. Know your accuracy seating depth(this is important). Use a good match bullet and a good barrel. Don't just shoot, practice. Consistency is the key.
 
#13
It's not fancy but I have had very good results with the Lee Classic Cast. I use Lee dies with the exception of a Forster Micrometer seating die, that I have come to trust. I get very consistent results. One thing I would recommend for use with single stage presses are lock rings. They make changing out your dies and setting up a snap.
 
#14
Thanks Everyone for the additions to the thread. I am pretty pumped bout the reloading to come , Have any of you SH fokes found the Lapua 155 & 175 Scenars to be pretty good? I can only imagine they are top notch but I am lookin to get consistant good accuracy even at a grand out of a 308 SOOOOO I know I will need a High BC and Some gome load development
 
#18
308 Win
42.8 of IMR 4064 with 168gr
41.75 of IMR 4064 with 175gr
Fed 210M
FC military Brass

Still using my RCBS Rock Chucker after 35 years........still going strong!
 
#19
I'm in agreement with the majority that a kit is NOT the way to get involved in precision reloading. It's fine for hunters only, but not for those serious about accuracy. I'm sure there are better presses that the Rockchucker, but can you find one at a good price and do you need a better press? Maybe if you are competition shooter you need more, but I've had mine 34 years and load varmint calibers that shoot in .1s & .2s. You'll be able to find one used, but in excellent condition, at a reasonable price. Spend your money on good dies (those suggested, already), a high quality digital scale, Lapua brass (IMO, the best and longest lasting brass), etc.
 
#20
Tnblueraider44, I have in the last six months got into center fire reloading and is some of my mistakes.
1. I bought a kit I now I have a digital scale I use instead of my 505 from RCBS trim and camphor tool extra
2. I brought a Case trimmer I now have a case prep station from Lyman It come with all the small tools you need to buy to prep cases, also there is a man that made a adaptor that fits the Lyman that use Lee case length steams so you can trim at the same time you are prepping. find this on You tube Lyman case prepping you can buy the adaptor on e-bay. It works great.
3. Then there is neck sizing VS Collect neck sizing So now I own both and in two different calibers. Money money money
I hope this helps from one rookie to another.
Good Luck it all fun

4. I forgot. Go with SS pins for brass prep I bought the vibrator and walnut first and then ultra sonic then then the SS pin system.
 
Last edited:
#21
I stated with the Lyman T-mag about six years ago. The only things you will need to buy that doesn't come with the kit is a trickler and dies. Has a six position turret so you can two or three calibers without having to remove dies.
And it has arguably the best reloading manual available.
http://www.lymanproducts.com/lyman/presses-and-kits/LyC_RPK_Exp_Del_Tmag.php

Sent from my SGH-T769 using Tapatalk 2
 
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