After sizing some 700 223Rem cases last 2 days I noticed some small scratches on the cases, so how do you guys polish your sizing dies?
Polishing dies?
- Thread starter JGorski
- Start date
Would something like Flitz really change the dimensions to any measurable effect? I'm sure if you stuck a dremel/drill up there long enough, it would, but assuming you only do so enough to get a good polish?
JGorski, just curious, what type of dies/lube are you using? I've never had anything but some cheap Lee dies scratch my cases. However, I have had a Redding comp seater die that left a little scuff mark on the side of every bullet I ran through the die. It definitely did not impact accuracy/concentricity. Kind of strange, but I stopped worrying about it since it didn't compromise accuracy.
JGorski, just curious, what type of dies/lube are you using? I've never had anything but some cheap Lee dies scratch my cases. However, I have had a Redding comp seater die that left a little scuff mark on the side of every bullet I ran through the die. It definitely did not impact accuracy/concentricity. Kind of strange, but I stopped worrying about it since it didn't compromise accuracy.
A suitable sized bore mop impregnated with Flitz in a drill. Works well. Flitz will not change the dimensions nearly enough to be measurable, let alone affect function.
This die is made by Redding, I use One Shot for lube. Im going to take it to work today and see if my millwright buddy can polish it.
Just had the same issue with a Forster die and letting grit get inside causing the brass the scratch/gall. I took a 28 gauge bore mop and some Flitz and polished the interior of the die for a minute or so. The end result was a smoother die. I did my research before trying this and the consensus is that the dimensions will not be changed if your conservative in your application. I also had some Mothers Mag polish on hand and I think it is even finer (less gritty) than the Flitz. I may try that next time should the need arise.
On a last note, I think grit was being transferred from my loading blocks to the casings causing the scratches. I always clean my brass in a tumbler prior to loading but the blocks did have some soot/brass shavings on them. Clean those loading blocks as well.
On a last note, I think grit was being transferred from my loading blocks to the casings causing the scratches. I always clean my brass in a tumbler prior to loading but the blocks did have some soot/brass shavings on them. Clean those loading blocks as well.
Surface scratches at best, you can just feel them on your fingernail, no biggie I know but I like my brass to look nice, too.
I use the 1300 micron Aluminum Oxide in grease for barrel cleaning compound. I've done as above with a bore mop using the cleaning compound. JB Bore paste would do the same thing. The Aluminum Oxide is a little finer and just a bit softer than the Dalmatious Earth in JB bore paste so it may take a bit more to get the mirror finish with it which may be a good thing.
I had the exact same issue with RCBS full length sizing dies using "One Shot". I even sent the die back to RCBS and they sent me a new one. Did the same thing as the first one. Switched to Imperial sizing wax and have never had the problem again. It takes a bit more time but IMO it's way easier on the brass. If you are sizing a large amount I would put the brass in a container, spray the hell out of it with one shot, then put a bunch of sizing wax on your hands and work it into the brass.
Use the Bore Paste to "clean" and the Bore-Bright to polish. Most scratching I've had on my cases was clearly caused by bits of brass sticking to the die's surace. One might even consider cleaning with some copper removing solvent on a regular basis to prevent the copper buildup.
Hi Gunny Gorsky,
That tub of your brass looks good. Would you hook me up if I sent over a Thousand for that nice lookin' prep and you can just send it back. Don't worry, I'll cover the postage...
(Let's see if this works guys...)
That tub of your brass looks good. Would you hook me up if I sent over a Thousand for that nice lookin' prep and you can just send it back. Don't worry, I'll cover the postage...
(Let's see if this works guys...)
OK, how much do you want me to set the shoulder back, .002-.003"? Want them trimmed, too?Hi Gunny Gorsky,
That tub of your brass looks good. Would you hook me up if I sent over a Thousand for that nice lookin' prep and you can just send it back. Don't worry, I'll cover the postage...
(Let's see if this works guys...)
.002-.003 would be just right. I always trim after FL sizing too with my 3-way cutter head in RCBS shell trimmer. Gotta' get that perfect length, neck chamfer and head-spacing for us OCD gas-gun shooters...
You're Hired!!!
We can compare swapped batches for Quality Controll, ha- ha
HAPPY NEW YEAR.
Steve
Also: nice little trio of Accurate bolt-guns there. Looks like you're into the 6 Creedmore religion with Very sweet pipes to shoot them through... Me JEALOUS
You're Hired!!!
We can compare swapped batches for Quality Controll, ha- ha
HAPPY NEW YEAR.
Steve
Also: nice little trio of Accurate bolt-guns there. Looks like you're into the 6 Creedmore religion with Very sweet pipes to shoot them through... Me JEALOUS
Last edited:
Flitz and a cotton bore mop in a battery powered drill. Dies should be cleaned fairly regularly. The lube will trap and hold all kinds of contaminates (carbon fouling, little bits of tumbling media, etc).
A super great tool. You can buy more expensive but not better. Every part of the process is adjustable with the RCBS 3-Way is adjustable. Length, Chamfer, and De-Burr. Add the carbide cutter and the tool is then "fantastic".
I agree on trimming after every firing but only because it makes the process easier. One or two cranks and done. Let the cases grow longer and it takes several more to trim.
