Bedding with loctite building a DM rifle

[yocan]

So I just picked up the parts to make a good fun to 400 meters maybe even 600 meters. This is going together tuesday

So basically I have a fairly nice 1/8" 20" stainless barrel with a battle comp on the end. Going on a billet omega upper and lower. with a Midwest Industries FF gen 2 SS series. thats been proffessionally cut to 14" (IMO ends better than how MI cut it) Got a geissle ssa-e trigger,

Do I loctite bed the barrel to the reciever? if I do, can I put another barrel in it when I burn this one out?

Side question suggestion on a stock? Right now its getting a CTR because I have 2 and I'm undecided.

Basically I'm warming up with this and then switching in my 6.5 barrel. Or if I bed will I need a new reciever.

 

[lte82]

You dont need to bed it for any reason.

 

[Scaevola]

Personally, I do it on all my builds.

Yes, it does make it a PITA to pop a toasted barrel out after it's seen better days, but I have actually had noticeable reductions (although slight, still noticeable) in group size by doing so.

1 drop of green Loctite, spread thinly around the barrel extension. It works for me.

 

[Black max]

Personally, I do it on all my builds.

Yes, it does make it a PITA to pop a toasted barrel out after it's seen better days, but I have actually had noticeable reductions (although slight, still noticeable) in group size by doing so.

1 drop of green Loctite, spread thinly around the barrel extension. It works for me.

Green seems a little overboard if you ever want to get the barrel back out. If you must do it I would use nothing stronger than red.

 

[Scaevola]

Green seems a little overboard if you ever want to get the barrel back out. If you must do it I would use nothing stronger than red.

I'll agree, green is definitely not the easiest to break loose when replacement time comes - takes some time with a heat gun before it starts letting go. On the flip side though, I know it won't prematurely let go if the mood hits me and I do a few mag dumps - which I am guilty of from time to time.

 

[jrob300]

If it's a true precision rig, lap the front of the receiver and bed the barrel extension with Red Loctite. Red Loctite the gas block as well, taking care to get none in the gas port. Make sure the gas tube does not contact the barrel nut and glides smoothly into the bolt carrier.

None of this will *hurt* a CQB gun, but it's the last nTH of a truly accurate AR. IMHO of course.

John

 

[MarinePMI]

Locktite for bedding?

Now where did I see that?

Oh yeah, the last DPMS I bought...

Seen a few Remington's on the rack s with the same "bedding" job...

 

[JJones75]

The red loctite is actually stronger than the green and thicker which will likely give you a better film all the way around the part.
The Green is much thinner because it is desgined to be applied to parts that are already assembled and to very close fitting parts like bearing to shaft fit and on pump sleeves and such.
Either will work for the purpose for a quick dirty fix as opposed to sleeving the extension and cutting it to fit the upper reciever.

 

[ZombieMonkey]

For practical accuracy, you're not going to be gaining anything, I wouldn't bother. You're creating more work for you later on down the road for what is likely to be an immeasurable difference.

Use a quality barrel mated to a quality upper and torque it together properly after using a little grease and you should have no issues.

Just had my 18" SPR ringing steel out at 740 yards with ease a week ago and it certainly did not require any loctite. I doubt the gong would've known the difference...

 

[troupe]

Don't make a mess with your upper by using lock tite on it. The accuracy gain does not outweigh the mess. Screw it together the way it should, break in the barrel properly and shoot. I am glad you can afford to shoot enough bullets down the barrel to burn it out. By shooting enough to burn out the barrel,then have a profesional build your next upper because you will be a good enough shot to then tell the differance in the accuracy gain. Keep shooting and have fun.

 

[346ci]

Use a high quality upper receiver with a tight barrel extension bore, such as Mega. When doing custom uppers, unless the customer requests a different brand, I'm using Mega. One of the very few uppers I have to beat the barrel into. No lapping or truing needed on those.

Use a quality barrel/bolt such as ARP, WOA and JP. All of those have shot very well for me. Break it in good with wet internals and a couple hundred hand cycles. I'd shoot 100-150 rounds just to make sure it is running good(check ejection and brass)and then see what kind of groups you can shoot. Remember, all rifles will like different loads, test with several and go from there.

 

[White Mamba]

I wouldn't stress to much on the use of locktite, a new stripped upper is only $100.

 

[hdbiker1]

I'd shoot it first to see what the groups look like. If after about 100-200rnds are shot and you're having an occasional flyer or two in a group or the groups aren't consistent, then I would apply the loctite of your choice. My experience is with a Vltor Mur upper with Krieger barrel. After about 1200 rnds, I was getting these unexplainable flyers. After gluing, all the group patterns were pretty much nice and round with no flyers. Right now I'm working with a MaTen with a Criterion barrel that shoots erratic patterns when cold or cooled. When warmed up or hot, it shoots nice groups. My gunsmith suggested gluing the extension, and explained that he's seen excellent results from his builds.
I'm not advocating that it'll make you shoot tiny groups, but I'm just saying it might make your groups more consistent if you need it.

 

[mallrat]

IMO For a precision rig, the slight increase in accuracy is worth the slight increase in effort required when it's time to change the barrel.

 

[MarkCO]

Locktite forms a bond due to an oxidation reaction with an active surface. The surface of anodized aluminum is not active and therefore the bond strength is not enough to resist the applied loads. Any improvement you think you see is not related to locktite "bedding" of the extension.

 

[hdbiker1]

Locktite forms a bond due to an oxidation reaction with an active surface. The surface of anodized aluminum is not active and therefore the bond strength is not enough to resist the applied loads. Any improvement you think you see is not related to locktite "bedding" of the extension.

I don't know, have you ever tried to get loctite off the inside of the receiver? It can be done, but it takes some work.

 

[mallrat]

Like bedding an action in a stock, the loctite will also take up the space left between the upper and barrel, allowing the barrel to move less under stress. Jmho

 

[MarkCO]

I don't know, have you ever tried to get loctite off the inside of the receiver? It can be done, but it takes some work.

Quick hit with a torch and then a solvent soaked towel to wipe out. Takes about 10 seconds.

 

[hdbiker1]

I'm curious and wonder how many gunsmiths that actually build accurate 308ARs bed the barrel extensions?

 

[MarkCO]

If they know what they are doing and get receivers and extensions that have a tight, or even a slight interference fit, there is no reason for it in the first place. Google "JP Thermo-fit™". Setting the nut by using anti-seize and torquing several times are also beneficial, but very few builders take the extra steps.