Whats the best Fl bushing resizing die or is there much differance in any of them. Looking to try one in my .308. I have a .339 neck and turn necks to .0145 per side. Loaded rounds are .335.5-.336, which bushing would I need for .0015-.002 neck tension, I know the brass will spring back some.
Best Fl bushing sizer
- Thread starter jsthntn247
- Start date
Need to check your math a little
.308 + .0145 +.0145 = .0337 which is pretty tight even for a benchrest rifle.
I do a lot of BR shooting, are you using a micrometer to measure neck diameter, calipers aren't accurate enough in my experience? Also, measuring wall thickness with calipers can be a little misleading at times.
Based on a measured .335 diameter, I would buy bushings in .333, .332, .331 and .330. Yes it costs 30 bucks each, but I have had to go from .260 bushings to .258, just from a brass lot change - my trimmer is set and never moves on my 6PPC setup. It is a cut and try procedure, to get the amount of consistent neck tension you want.
If you are using this for tactical or hunting work, you night consider going down to a .010 neck thickness, and save yourself from chambering issues with less than ideal cleanliness in the field.
Oh, and either Redding dies, or make your own.
.308 + .0145 +.0145 = .0337 which is pretty tight even for a benchrest rifle.
I do a lot of BR shooting, are you using a micrometer to measure neck diameter, calipers aren't accurate enough in my experience? Also, measuring wall thickness with calipers can be a little misleading at times.
Based on a measured .335 diameter, I would buy bushings in .333, .332, .331 and .330. Yes it costs 30 bucks each, but I have had to go from .260 bushings to .258, just from a brass lot change - my trimmer is set and never moves on my 6PPC setup. It is a cut and try procedure, to get the amount of consistent neck tension you want.
If you are using this for tactical or hunting work, you night consider going down to a .010 neck thickness, and save yourself from chambering issues with less than ideal cleanliness in the field.
Oh, and either Redding dies, or make your own.
The easy answer is:: 0.3355 - 0.002 = 0.3335
But since they don't make 0.3335 bushings you will have to try a 0.333 and a 0.334.
The more difficult answer is that it really depends, on the gun, the ammo, the reloading procedures,...
It seems the op found what he needed.
But since you asked for the best bushing dies available, I would not look to Redding, although they generally make good dies..
Warner tool company and Neil jones would be the producers to look up from my experience. Whidden dies i have no experience with, but heard good reports.And they are easier to get and cheaper.
JLC precision also makes/made some high quality custom dies, and can modify any standard die to take bushings, the website is down long ago and i'm not sure if he is still around.
The WTC dies are very solid and well made but expensive, one die with a body insert and one neck neck shoulder bushing, die shims and some tools, 350 bucks, and another 50 for each neck/shoulder bushing, 100 for another body insert. And you need a thread pitch of 1.25"-12 in your press to use it, removing the standard die insert works in some presses.
You can use it for several calibers though if you buy another body insert and neck/shoulder bushing formed from your cases.
I have a press with both 1.25"-12 and 7/8"-14 thread inserts, so this fits right in and it's the most impressive die i've ever owned, the headspace shim system works great, everything is perfectly machined and finished, my runout in incredibly low with it. And custom dies generally does work the brass less and extends case life. Getting a few extra reloads from each case saves money in the long run.
Neil Jones dies are also of very good quality but you will wait a long time for them.
He does offer a rather unique bushing FL die, Neck sizer die with bushings, seater die, can make a body die. And also makes seater and neck sizer for arbor presses.
If you do size in a conventional press and seat with a arbor like i do, having him make a set of dies for both, from your fired cases really ensures everything stays concentric.
But since you asked for the best bushing dies available, I would not look to Redding, although they generally make good dies..
Warner tool company and Neil jones would be the producers to look up from my experience. Whidden dies i have no experience with, but heard good reports.And they are easier to get and cheaper.
JLC precision also makes/made some high quality custom dies, and can modify any standard die to take bushings, the website is down long ago and i'm not sure if he is still around.
The WTC dies are very solid and well made but expensive, one die with a body insert and one neck neck shoulder bushing, die shims and some tools, 350 bucks, and another 50 for each neck/shoulder bushing, 100 for another body insert. And you need a thread pitch of 1.25"-12 in your press to use it, removing the standard die insert works in some presses.
You can use it for several calibers though if you buy another body insert and neck/shoulder bushing formed from your cases.
I have a press with both 1.25"-12 and 7/8"-14 thread inserts, so this fits right in and it's the most impressive die i've ever owned, the headspace shim system works great, everything is perfectly machined and finished, my runout in incredibly low with it. And custom dies generally does work the brass less and extends case life. Getting a few extra reloads from each case saves money in the long run.
Neil Jones dies are also of very good quality but you will wait a long time for them.
He does offer a rather unique bushing FL die, Neck sizer die with bushings, seater die, can make a body die. And also makes seater and neck sizer for arbor presses.
If you do size in a conventional press and seat with a arbor like i do, having him make a set of dies for both, from your fired cases really ensures everything stays concentric.
Powermac - good info there.
You can also buy blank dies from Newlon Precision, and ask Kiff to make you a resize reamer, and make your own dies. After you make them, send them out to be nitride, and they will last forever.
Once you figure out how to make dies, and purchase your own resize reamers ( a shade smaller than a chamber reamer ) you can make dies for your friends that shoot the same round and defray the cost a bit also. I originally got started doing it, since I couldn't get what I wanted in a regular die. If you are doing any wildcat stuff at all, with tight or turned necks, for sure this is the way to go.
And, as was mentioned, custom dies work your brass a lot less. It is not unusual for a 6PPC brass to go 100 or more reload cycles, only getting set back .001-.0005 per sizing. I can usually shoot a whole weekend match with 20 pieces of brass ( 100 record shots,plus foulers and sighters ) and not have to trim length. If I have to trim, I am likely setting the shoulder back more than that, with custom dies and dummy chamber, it is easy to measure, check and change.
You can also buy blank dies from Newlon Precision, and ask Kiff to make you a resize reamer, and make your own dies. After you make them, send them out to be nitride, and they will last forever.
Once you figure out how to make dies, and purchase your own resize reamers ( a shade smaller than a chamber reamer ) you can make dies for your friends that shoot the same round and defray the cost a bit also. I originally got started doing it, since I couldn't get what I wanted in a regular die. If you are doing any wildcat stuff at all, with tight or turned necks, for sure this is the way to go.
And, as was mentioned, custom dies work your brass a lot less. It is not unusual for a 6PPC brass to go 100 or more reload cycles, only getting set back .001-.0005 per sizing. I can usually shoot a whole weekend match with 20 pieces of brass ( 100 record shots,plus foulers and sighters ) and not have to trim length. If I have to trim, I am likely setting the shoulder back more than that, with custom dies and dummy chamber, it is easy to measure, check and change.
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