Trying to decide on which Sako TRG 42 to go with. We have the standard fixed stock, or the A1 chassis option. I know the the A1 has the fully adjustable buttstock, but other than that, and it’s toxic looks, is the TRG 42A1 worth the extra 2500.00??? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
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Sako TRG 42, or 42A1?
- Thread starter RaptorAddict
- Start date
Save the money buy the 42 and get the $900 krg folder.
kineticresearchgroup.com
TRG Folding Buttstock - Kinetic Research Group
Our fixed and folding buttstock for your TRG-22/42 are a robust and ergonomic upgrade for your fine Sako rifle. Click to learn more!
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The Sako A1 chassis is great in many ways. Granted that I have limited exposure to it, but I feel that everything you want is there.
I have however shot with a TRG 22 for a few years. While I dont mind the original stock, there is no real adjustability to it, exept the buttpad height. Other than that you need expensive spacers and frankly that sucks. Thats why I switched to the KRG w3 rear folder pretty much from the get go.
The original front section is bulky and a bit fragile too. If you dabble in PRS type shooting, the original pretty much sucks as it is short and have a high center of gravity. So I switched to the Vision aluminium front and its awesome. Expensive, but still awesome.
So, while the A1 chassis is not a PRS chassis, and PRS is not the benchmark to compare anything and everything too. It has all the adjustments you could ever want or need right out of the box. If its worth it, is up to you. But I feel that you should be comparing apples to apples.
And the stock urethane stock parts are not in the same league as the other parts mentioned above.
I have however shot with a TRG 22 for a few years. While I dont mind the original stock, there is no real adjustability to it, exept the buttpad height. Other than that you need expensive spacers and frankly that sucks. Thats why I switched to the KRG w3 rear folder pretty much from the get go.
The original front section is bulky and a bit fragile too. If you dabble in PRS type shooting, the original pretty much sucks as it is short and have a high center of gravity. So I switched to the Vision aluminium front and its awesome. Expensive, but still awesome.
So, while the A1 chassis is not a PRS chassis, and PRS is not the benchmark to compare anything and everything too. It has all the adjustments you could ever want or need right out of the box. If its worth it, is up to you. But I feel that you should be comparing apples to apples.
And the stock urethane stock parts are not in the same league as the other parts mentioned above.
Depends on ur pocket book but i buy the old 42 and spend the extra on glass and ammo haha. Maybe get the krg folder if that’s what you need
I love the stock stock. Light, comfortable and adjustable enough.
But KRG's folder is the bees knees...
But KRG's folder is the bees knees...
I’ve had several TRG 22 and one 22A1. If the money won’t set you back and you appreciate the extra weight, get the A1 version. If the money will stretch you out or you value a lighter rifle, then get the standard version.
A couple things that the TRG A1 chassis gives you over the KRG chassis is it has a right side folding stock and has a 30moa integral scope base and rail.
Here was mine. I sold it a while back.
A couple things that the TRG A1 chassis gives you over the KRG chassis is it has a right side folding stock and has a 30moa integral scope base and rail.
Here was mine. I sold it a while back.
You make a lot of sense. To be honest, I am not sure what I'm after and the brain is confused cause I am not in PRS and after usability and aesthetics. I will say that the A1 is very high on the aesthetics chart, but I find both models awesome.
That's one awesome setup! I'm after the A1 version of the TRG over any other rifle. Looked at AI, Barrett and so on. Something about the TRG A1 that has me. Just wanted to hear from others who had experience with both and wasn't sure if going the with the A1 upgrade would be worth the couple grand over the fixed stock. Money isn't the issue. But it will be an issue if I find out after the fact that I should've stuck with the fixed stock.
I think that if you can get the A1, you should.
If you get the regular one, find that you want to switch parts for added adjustability and go down the KRG route, or get a Vision complete chassis for it, the difference in money will be very small between a 42 and a 42 A1.
And Im with you, the looks of the A1 are pretty much worth it alone.
If you get the regular one, find that you want to switch parts for added adjustability and go down the KRG route, or get a Vision complete chassis for it, the difference in money will be very small between a 42 and a 42 A1.
And Im with you, the looks of the A1 are pretty much worth it alone.
I was recently looking for a rifle, and the tall fore-end put me off TRG. The A1 would be way better in that respect - if you can afford it and don't mind a bit of weight.
I’m going to go with the TRG-42A1….
KRG stuff is awesome, but the adjustable comb is hard and hurts your face if you are on the rifle for hours.
I just replaced the A1 barrel with a KRG TRG 42 Brux Barrel w/ KRG barrel nut system. After taking apart the A1 I can tell you it;s a thing of beauty.
As mentioned above, the rifle comes with everything you need out of the box… provided money is no object.
KRG stuff is awesome, but the adjustable comb is hard and hurts your face if you are on the rifle for hours.
I just replaced the A1 barrel with a KRG TRG 42 Brux Barrel w/ KRG barrel nut system. After taking apart the A1 I can tell you it;s a thing of beauty.
As mentioned above, the rifle comes with everything you need out of the box… provided money is no object.
You won’t see a difference in results on paper. I have had all TRGs and can say that the M10 is big step forward but not the A1.
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What I found interesting is that the OEM barrel on the A1 did not fire as well as the original barrels on my plain 42.
Now it’s not like they don’t do 1/4-1/2 MOA at 100 yards… but my interest is shooting copper solids at a mile and I could not get the warner tool company bullets to group under an inch at 100 yards.
This leads me to believe that the barrel is not quite as good as the prior barrels I had from the factory on my older TRG rifles.
The A1 is actually a decent chassis… Don’t let anybody tell you otherwise. I’m not super impressed with the butt pad area as it has a slight bit of play that doesn’t really seem to affect my shooting at all.
if I were gonna spend M10 kind of money, or even list price 42A1 money, I would probably go out and buy an AI rifle.
Now it’s not like they don’t do 1/4-1/2 MOA at 100 yards… but my interest is shooting copper solids at a mile and I could not get the warner tool company bullets to group under an inch at 100 yards.
This leads me to believe that the barrel is not quite as good as the prior barrels I had from the factory on my older TRG rifles.
The A1 is actually a decent chassis… Don’t let anybody tell you otherwise. I’m not super impressed with the butt pad area as it has a slight bit of play that doesn’t really seem to affect my shooting at all.
if I were gonna spend M10 kind of money, or even list price 42A1 money, I would probably go out and buy an AI rifle.
Does anyone have a thread protector for a TRG-42 338 LM? I can't seem to find mine, nor have I seen any instock anywhere lately, I want to sell the rifle complete so if anyone can point me in the right direction I'd really appreciate it. Sorry if I have posted this in the wrong area.
Many Thanks,
will6970
Many Thanks,
will6970
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$12
A TRG 42 is pretty hard to beat for the money with a KRG folding stock and a $200 Vision Arca hand guard.
I see you had an extra barrel for the A1. How difficult are they to change and where did you buy the extra barrel? There doesn't seem to be a ton of factory or aftermarket support for these rifles in the US. A client just picked up a TRG42A1 and I am curious myself. Thanks!
If you need a barrel, I have a spare Brux BBL with a KRG barrel nut.
The answer is it's really eazy to change the barrel, the hard part is getting the old bbl off. It's typical to either make a relief cut or use alot of heat on the action. The former is a better want to do it.
Short Action Customs are pros are this, and I used to the later method to save the OEM BBL off my TRG-42A1... but they had to cerekote the action due to the heat.
The answer is it's really eazy to change the barrel, the hard part is getting the old bbl off. It's typical to either make a relief cut or use alot of heat on the action. The former is a better want to do it.
Short Action Customs are pros are this, and I used to the later method to save the OEM BBL off my TRG-42A1... but they had to cerekote the action due to the heat.
In keeping with the last thought, since I only have the TRG-42A1 at this point... I just posted the last TRG-22/22A1 barrel I forgot I had... since I don't need it. I'm willing to trade or give a bit on the price:
SH TRG22 BBL Listing, 'cause, why not?
SH TRG22 BBL Listing, 'cause, why not?
Thanks for the tech tips! This gun/barrel is brand new and hopefully should last a good while. What cartridge is your brux barrel chambered in? Our clients is 338 LM and I was able to get his shooting 5rd groups .6-1 moa with 300gr Bergers in Lapua brass over N570. Honestly I think it may hold even tighter as we were shooting with no muzzle brake at that time.
Factory TRG barrels do a very good job shooting sub MOA.
With the exception of one, one of them I have been able to shoot copper solids without any issues. Moreover, they tend to shoot copper solids even better than lead core rounds.
The biggest issue with the factory barrels is what the rate of twist is, as they tend to not be able to handle rounds that need a higher rate of twist.
That being said, I did see the 300 win mag variant shoot 160gr warner tool company bullets without an issue…
This is the reason I’ve replaced barrels.
It’s important to note that Sako heats the action and freezes the barrels when they assemble a TRG., typically, to remove the factory barrel you have to do a relief cut to get it off… otherwise you need to use heat on the action to get off, and that may require you to Cerakote the action after…
Plenty of folks say they can bang the action off without issue... but the down side would be potentially deforming the action... which can't be replaced. (It's not like calling ARC and getting another CDG to replace a damaged one...)
With the exception of one, one of them I have been able to shoot copper solids without any issues. Moreover, they tend to shoot copper solids even better than lead core rounds.
The biggest issue with the factory barrels is what the rate of twist is, as they tend to not be able to handle rounds that need a higher rate of twist.
That being said, I did see the 300 win mag variant shoot 160gr warner tool company bullets without an issue…
This is the reason I’ve replaced barrels.
It’s important to note that Sako heats the action and freezes the barrels when they assemble a TRG., typically, to remove the factory barrel you have to do a relief cut to get it off… otherwise you need to use heat on the action to get off, and that may require you to Cerakote the action after…
Plenty of folks say they can bang the action off without issue... but the down side would be potentially deforming the action... which can't be replaced. (It's not like calling ARC and getting another CDG to replace a damaged one...)
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I had no problem pulling factory TRG 22 barrels. I’ve removed two by holding pressure on an external action wrench while hitting the handle a few times with a rubber mallet. It took no more effort than any of the Tikkas I’ve done and I’ve fooled with several of those. I think the stubborn ones must be exceptions and not the rule.
The real issue is if you end up scratching or deforming the action... Which really doesn't seem worth the risk.
