6ARC, 22ARC, or .223 for my use case?

I don’t know if this will help you but I’ve got 6.5 Grendel, a 6arc, a dozen .223’s. And currently having a 22arc built. 9 out of 10 times I grab a .223 to go to the range. It’s just cheaper and I have lots of ammo for it. The match grade rounds available are almost endless. And it’s usually in stock everywhere.

keep using the 223 guns you have since your not shooting more then 150 yards. Instead, buy some top dollar glass.

You should absolutely stick with 5.56/.223. you will not realize any benefits from those distance oriented cartridges. 223 hits steel at 150 with plenty of impact, and its fine at 400 as well.

Most importantly, 223 is far cheaper so you can practice far more.

If your really going to be doing serious target shooting at 100-150Y I would highly recommend a 22lr.

"I like the idea of 6mm ARC for the additional power down range for the steel".

You're... uh.....trying to hit your steel harder at 100y, and that will dictate your cartridge selection?

Just get a .223. If all you're going to do is slap steel at 150y or less, you could also get a good slingshot, or a 22lr. I think Peyton manning could throw a football that far in his prime..

What?...no love for the .224 Valk???
1550y "capable" (and possibly a potential redbull can slayer) right there.

But seriously...
This:

Hecouldgoalltheway said:

Just get a .223. If all you're going to do is slap steel at 150y or less, you could also get a good slingshot, or a 22lr. I think Peyton manning could throw a football that far in his prime..

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None of these calibers are intrinsically more accurate than one another. Your accuracy will be determined by the parts you select (barrel, primarily) and the process with which they are assembled.

You will be better off with 223 for the singular reason that you will have more factory ammo available so you'll have the greatest variety of loads to try and see what your barrel likes the most.

jst4kix said:

Thanks to all for the quick and well-reasoned feedback! I feel that .223 is the logical choice, just had the “itch” to possibly try something different, since I’m considering a new build. Again, thanks to everyone for posting - I appreciate the guidance and find this forum a wealth of information!

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It's probably safe to say that ALL of us get that itch to try something just a little faster, little higher BC, little, more 'whatever'... but there's costs and one has to pay the fiddler...whether its weaker bolts, shittier mags, lesser support/options. But with the parameters you've given, it's a complete waste of time and money.

A good barrel and some decent otm .223 ammo is overkill for even 400y flat range.

Try the 75-77gr 5.56 load that PSA sells for .55/rd, i bet those would knock it down if a 55gr is just barely not enough.

If you want more "knockdown power" the cheapest route would be .300bo or 7.62x39. mechanical accuracy is pretty irrelevant for hammering a 12MOA target.

If PSA ever makes good on making 6.5 grendel that would be a great option for both precision and greater "knockdown power" at a low price.

Though again I don't think being able to hammer that one target a little more consistently could be worth the greater price/round of any of these alternative calibers.

Given the benefit of a 5.56 / .223 barrels life, over the other 2, and your shooting "needs" ... I'd stay with a your current caliber.

jst4kix said:

I should’ve been more specific - my apologies - the 100 yard steel target I have is a 2/3 silhouette on a motorized mechanism that stands it back up after it’s been knocked down. The problem I have is sometimes .223 doesn’t have the power to knock it over, it’s made of pretty thick stuff, so I was thinking one advantage of 6ARC would be more power on target during impact. However, I didn’t make that part clear in my initial posting.

Also, thanks for the comment about .22lr! As you and others mentioned, switching gears to a .22 precision build could be great fun and a new challenge at the distances I have available.

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I had the same problem with my 12” steel poppers, which are mounted to heavy bases. .223 Rem would not even move them.



This was ~560yds if I recall, but these are the 12” poppers I’m talking about:




6.5 Grendel flattens them at 300yds. I put springs in them so they visibly move back and return upright.

You need to double-tap them with .223 Rem and hit high 1/3 to move them, which is also fun.

Match ammunition is a lot more per round for .223 Rem and kind of balances out the cost per round between them all.

Rounds required to put the steel down favors those with more momentum, which is Grendel, 6mm, then .223 in that order.

With the Grendel, you’re about 80% of the energy on-target of a .308 Winchester.

GeoDude said:

keep using the 223 guns you have since your not shooting more then 150 yards. Instead, buy some top dollar glass.

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This, plus 75-77 grain ammo.
A good optic will find a rifle.

LRRPF52 said:

I had the same problem with my 12” steel poppers, which are mounted to heavy bases. .223 Rem would not even move them.

This was ~560yds if I recall, but these are the 12” poppers I’m talking about:

6.5 Grendel flattens them at 300yds. I put springs in them so they visibly move back and return upright.

You need to double-tap them with .223 Rem and hit high 1/3 to move them, which is also fun.

Match ammunition is a lot more per round for .223 Rem and kind of balances out the cost per round between them all.

Rounds required to put the steel down favors those with more momentum, which is Grendel, 6mm, then .223 in that order.

With the Grendel, you’re about 80% of the energy on-target of a .308 Winchester.

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223/5.56 is the easy/logical choice.

If I wanted to shoot something different, it would be 6.5Grendel. As pointed out above, Grendel is gonna hit steel a lot harder. Tons of factory options for Grendel. I haven’t seen a decent Grendel build that didn’t shoot Hornady Black 123 elds well. Grendel barrels should outlast 556 also.

I concur with the consensus, 223, probably a Wylde chamber. While I don't have any experience with the 22 arc, I do have both the 6.5 grendel & 6 arc, both of which ammo is precious. I have a nice stash of wolf 6.5 grendel that I started pulling the bullets a reseating with match pills, making myself Mexican match ammo. But based on what you're planning to do stick with 5.56/223.

I agreed up until he said he wanted to knock over his self-resetting steel targets. We all know how .223 is on steel, so that’s where I would ditch the .223 and step up into way more momentum on-target.

I was running a DM Course many years ago with military-only attendees, with a mix of Mk.262 from 5.56 guns and 7.62 from Hk417s. We had a bunch of large/tall poppers placed all over one of the stages of fire on the range (limited to 300m due to dense vegetation/trees).

You had to hammer the 5.56 at the top of the head, maybe even triple it if you wanted the silhouettes to fall down, whereas the Hk 417 of course sent them tumbling head-over-heel, knocking the target bases off from where we set them up and down behind the berms with a “clank-cu-clank” very loud noise, unable to be used until we went cold and had to go reset them up entirely.

I remember thinking, “I wish I had my Grendel with me right now."

We also did some plate rack drills at distance that were really fun from cover behind the range berms on a shot timer. It was easy to burn through the drill with 5.56, but effects on the plates were anemic, whereas the 417 of course sent the plates flying, but at a slower run on the timer. Again, I thought, “Man, it would really be neat to have that little Grendel right about now."

This was when I still wasn’t too seriously into Grendel. I was shooting .260 Rem and 5.56 a lot more at the time.

You can still get plates to fall with 5.56 if you soft-set them, but it sounds like the OP’s targets are self-resetting and I don’t know what it takes to put them down in terms of ft-lbs of energy. 5.56 will still be loud when it hits steel within 200yds, but is well-known for being anemic when it comes to knocking them down.

I’d go with 223. The others are overkill.

ClangClang said:

None of these calibers are intrinsically more accurate than one another. Your accuracy will be determined by the parts you select (barrel, primarily) and the process with which they are assembled.

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There is a significant difference in BC between 6mm and 5.56. I am not sure that the rounds ability to fight the wind will show much difference inside of 200 yards (to your point).

To the OP, another vote for 5.56 from me.