Gunsmithing Cerakote Question - Coating Barrel Installed on Action

EXSOCAL

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Minuteman
Feb 12, 2010
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Question for you seasoned cerakoters. I’ve always coated my barrels by themselves then install on the action, especially actions that come with nice surface treatments like DLC, those don’t get cerakote. No matter what I do, I always get marks, basically a change in the sheen of the cerakote, when I clamp them to torque the action on. I’ve tried toilet paper tubes, paper, card stock, tape, etc., along with a few of the popular vises out there. Always marks. On my rifles, this doesn’t bother me. For the barrels I coat for buddies, I want them to be perfect.

From a search, I see a lot of you guys coat the barrel after it’s been installed on the action. My question is how do you tape it off at the receiver face? Are you taping around the OD of the receiver and blasting / coating the little portion of exposed rail and face of the receiver along with the barrel, or do you carefully tape off the receiver face around the barrel?

Thanks in advance.
 
Get a barrel shank cut off that's the same size as your barrel shank to cut a perfect circle in some poly tape . Slide that down the barrel sticking on the recoil lug face . That's what I do for bedding but I bet it would work well for blasting and cerakote .
I've had good luck with heavy paper wrapped around the barrel in aluminum jaws but if it slips the finish is done.
 
Get a barrel shank cut off that's the same size as your barrel shank to cut a perfect circle in some poly tape . Slide that down the barrel sticking on the recoil lug face . That's what I do for bedding but I bet it would work well for blasting and cerakote .
I've had good luck with heavy paper wrapped around the barrel in aluminum jaws but if it slips the finish is done.
Awesome. I’ll give that a go in the morning. Thanks!
 
I've looked into this recently as well and from what I read, alot of people actually prefer to have the cerakote done to the barreled action instead of spereately. Not speaking from any experience, just based on some other threads I found.
 
I get what you're saying about working with a nicely finished action - I've done bbls for several Origins, all my Vudoo & Rim-X repeaters, plus several others for customers. In general, I like CK Elite E-100 blackout on bbls for these and other actions with a similar finish, as I get a good match on surface color & finish. I have a SAC bbl vise, and use the recommended drywall tape to protect the paint & give good friction. As long as the split aluminum bushings are a good fit for the bbl, I don't get much if any marking on the bbl. I bought the SAC modular bbl vise full kit with all the split bushings, and have been very pleased with it - not cheap at $425, but well worth it IMHO.
 
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