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Gunsmithing Gunsmith said this about installing a Tikka prefit
- Thread starter carbonbased
- Start date
I've pulled 5 or 6 factory tikka barrels. New rifles aren't horrible, but after ones had a ton of rounds through it, heat cycle wise, I feel they get worse. I have a SAC barrel vise and all associated inserts. I had one that was tight enough it required to people. I had the Bugholes inside action wrench with 24" breaker bar, and an 18", box end wrench on the action flats around nose of action loaded with what felt prob 200# of torque, had a buddy hit the action tenon area with a large flat punch to shock the steel and it broke free. When I buy a new Tikka I break the barrel free and re-torque to 100'/# and some copper anti seize, zero problems there forward.
My smith has cut barrels for around 30 different Tikka actions that he was able to measure, and he said headspace varied by about 005 between all them, so he prefers to measure prior to cutting. He's also anal a out his headspace specs. I know other companies that do prefits have a known range of headspace, they chamber to specs in the middle of range, that way you will be right at go, to go plus 004, which is well within Sammi specs. Tikka are prob most consistent mass produced action headspace, but they're not nominal. Hand fitment is still recommend if you want an
exact headspace.
My smith has cut barrels for around 30 different Tikka actions that he was able to measure, and he said headspace varied by about 005 between all them, so he prefers to measure prior to cutting. He's also anal a out his headspace specs. I know other companies that do prefits have a known range of headspace, they chamber to specs in the middle of range, that way you will be right at go, to go plus 004, which is well within Sammi specs. Tikka are prob most consistent mass produced action headspace, but they're not nominal. Hand fitment is still recommend if you want an
exact headspace.
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I'm the 2nd owner of a LH Tac A1 in 308. I'm 308 poor with 2 other bolt guns and to AR's. I would like any advice on a few smiths that are known for their Tikka work , Their contact info would be appreciated
Thank you
Thank you
Admitting is the first step on the path.
What advice are you after specifically ? Feeding, new barrel, bolt, trigger, stock fitment, etc... ive worked on and built LOADS of tikkas, however at this point i can only offer you advice.. im in Australia.
So, thx to you boys, I’ve avoided the rocky shoals of Ol’ Pirate Reamer!
Onto Chapter 2! The Myth, The Man, & The Stripper’s Gall
(I could repeat it here, but whatever. There’s more than one post on that link btw)
@Terry Cross I’d love an analysis. I assume it’s my fault, at least partially.
Note: no @Bugholes were harmed in this adventure.
Onto Chapter 2! The Myth, The Man, & The Stripper’s Gall
(I could repeat it here, but whatever. There’s more than one post on that link btw)
@Terry Cross I’d love an analysis. I assume it’s my fault, at least partially.
Note: no @Bugholes were harmed in this adventure.
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Guess I’ve been lucky. I’ve never had an issue removing a Tikka barrel.
Maybe I’ll video the next one I remove.
Maybe I’ll video the next one I remove.
Yeah, on that other thread I linked to, one other person had probs with an older T3 like I did. Maybe that’s where the occasional issues tend to be.
Not sure about the second guy I linked to…he didn’t state the Tikka model. But he references owning a T3 in his post history.
I dunno. Maybe Finnish strongman Riku Kiri was on the assembly line at the time lol (bench press: 667 lbs, squat: 860 lbs!)
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When I buy a new Tikka, I always break the barrel lose, remove whatever product they apply that bonds the tenon with some solvent, dry it, apply some copper anti seize, re-torque to 100'/#. They're easier to break new, vs 3k rounds. In the few I've broken at the end of life anyways.
No issues taking off T3x model barrels, however an older T3 with a few hundred rounds did take a little convincing and a solid vise to get off. Used it as an excuse to step up to that nifty SAC vise haha.
He never said anything about reamer use, probably meant shoulder touch. Agreed not good to use a reamer after the fact. The firing deal is his preference. For sure barrels can be tight I use that disclaimer no matter what, you have to touch the surface and zero marks is unreasonable for a factory barrel removal. It can be done most times, if you want some very fine exact specs you need to give them and he agrees or go somewhere else. Like most I would never chamber without an action unless I worked it before then I have the specs already but still prefer to have it. there can be wear, damage, tinkering. (Howa is the tightest)
It doesn’t look like you got an answer. I know that Long Rifles Inc. (LRI) does really nice work on Tikkas.
A friend made brass clamps to fit the barrel and the vice. Degreased barrel, applied crazy glue. Glued barrel over about 6” to the reasonably well fitting brass tools. Warmed threaded area with steam. Applied torque to action as helper smacked two brass hammers to sandwich the action where the threads are. To remove brass tools apply steam or propane. The ideas here being; crazy glue is strong in a thin bond line but softens around boiling water temperature. Shock applied to the threaded area injects energy and resembles an impact wrench as to what the threaded joint experiences.
I've broken a handful of Tikka oem barrels from actions using the SAC barrel vice, appropriate Tikka bushings, some rosin/dry wall tape. Bugholes inside action wrench and a helper utilizing a tight fitting external wrench around the action side flats by the tenon applying additional force. Whenever I get a new Tikka, I break it, clean the residual compound from threads, use some copper anti seize and re-torque to 100'/# and all is well. A Tikka that hasn't had this done and has had several thousands rounds a 100s of heating/cooling cycles is much more difficult to remove in my experience, I've messed with prob a dozen. They can be a bitch.
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