Savage Trigger Options

T

triceratops3

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Dec 27, 2010
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Northern VA
#1
I've been wanting to replace the accutrigger on my savage 12flv but not sure which trigger I should go with.

Choice seems to be between

Rifle Basix- Sav-1 vs Sav-2 --Whats the difference between the two besides the pull weight range to cause the $70 dollar price difference?

Sharp Shooter Supply

Timney

and Jard.

Who has experience with any of these and which would you get?

Thanks.
 
#2
I like the Accutrigger...but I like the SAV-1 much, much better...especially for $90.

The SAV-2 is an ultralight benchrest trigger, along the lines of the SSS Evolution trigger (which requires a time/true job).

Have no experience with the SSS Competition but it is very popular; also have no experience with the Timney.
 
#3
I have a Savage Model 10 FCP and the Accutrigger has a 1 1/2 pound pull and is very crisp. This is the only rifle I never thought I had to replace or adjust the trigger on. On all my other rifles I either adjusted them or replaced them using a Timney trigger or like on my Browning A-Bolt I just bought the springs from Timney and installed them. Outside of that I have had no reason to go with any other company then Timney. Sounds old school but I go with what has worked well for me in the past. Good luck with what ever you go with.
 
#5
A few thoughts:

I'd NEVER EVER EVER do business with SSS again. Fred can eat a dick.

I haven't seen an aftermarket trigger for Savage that I really like. The trigger/sear design of a Savage is shit, and in my opinion, MUST have the safety system of the accurelease (the "blade") to safely tune down by decreasing pull weight and sear engagement for creep-free release. There is a reason savage designed and included the blade on the accutrigger.

Most accutrigger owners have had a "lockup" when closing the bolt - without the blade, that would of been a slam fire.

There are mechanical reasons why this applies to Savage much more so than Remington or Winchester and it comes down to geometry.

I had an RB Sav1, and could not SAFELY get it below 2.5lb AND be creep-free.

I have an RB Sav2, which is a significant improvement over the Sav1, but I still don't truly trust it.

The key difference between the 1 and 2, is the 2 has an intermediate lever between trigger and sear that gives the trigger mechanical advantage over the sear. Thus compounding trigger force in order to release the sear. This makes it easy to get very low trigger pull weight, but exaggerates any creep.

It is always a delicate balance between enough sear engagement for safety and little enough to be creep free.

Personally, for a field rifle, I think the OEM accutrigger is the best bet.
 
#6
Fred may be terrible to do business with, but without question he makes the best trigger for savages. Turbo, i agree the sear system on the savage sucks. I think Fred knew this, which is why his comp trigger has its own sear engagement cam. Its reliable down to about 18 ounces. IMO, is far superior to anything rifle basix or timney put out.
And you don't have to do business with Fred to own one, just order from tacticalworks.net.
 
#7
bodywerks said:
Fred may be terrible to do business with, but without question he makes the best trigger for savages. Turbo, i agree the sear system on the savage sucks. I think Fred knew this, which is why his comp trigger has its own sear engagement cam. Its reliable down to about 18 ounces. IMO, is far superior to anything rifle basix or timney put out.
And you don't have to do business with Fred to own one, just order from tacticalworks.net.
Click to expand...

I can't argue the merits of the SSS trigger one way or the other. I'll take your word on it though that it is a good unit.

However, simply on principle, I wouldn't buy one - from SSS directly, from a distributor, or even second-hand.

Like I said, Fred and SSS can eat a dick. Awful establishment.
 
#8
turbo54 said:
I can't argue the merits of the SSS trigger one way or the other. I'll take your word on it though that it is a good unit.

However, simply on principle, I wouldn't buy one - from SSS directly, from a distributor, or even second-hand.

Like I said, Fred and SSS can eat a dick. Awful establishment.
Click to expand...

I have had the opposite experience with SSS...but then I have never dealt directly with Fred..only his wife, Lisa. I would have spoken with Fred, but for a long time he wasn't available due to some kind of medical issues and maybe that affected how you/he interacted or affected his availability to you.......I am kind of mystified to hear all this negative stuff about their operation, as my PERSONAL experiences with them have bee SO, SO different!!

On the original TRIGGER subject, I have no personal experience with aftermarket triggers for my Savage (with accutrigger) at all. I have experienced a sort of "variable" trigger pull....varying in let-off and wandering mostly over time toward the decreasing side, which eventually wound up with the trigger sometimes "dropping" and locking up when the bolt was closed...and that was DEFINITELY NOT slamming it shut. I will say that it never slam fired or went off when it "dropped" as the sear is never released in that circumstance, but it is pretty frustrating to get all in position to shoot and on target, only to find that the trigger is locked up and you have to "re-cycle" the bolt to get it all cocked/set again. The matches I shoot in, an extremely light trigger is not the best for me but having a fairly light, crisp and CONSISTENT trigger pull is important. I have been wondering what I can do to improve that gun's trigger...which aftermarket trigger is actually an improvement and worth the cost....OTOH, I have pretty much gone back to an accurized Remmy 700 action, Krieger Barrel, Timney Trigger, Competition Machine Chassis rig in 6.5 Creedmoor, so the Savage will only be a "backup" gun or used if I have a guest that wants to go out and shoot a match with me sometime. I have, however, had reports from a buddy of mine of great service and a good trigger from SS and Fred when he times the action and installs one of his triggers...and that is for a reasonable cost, also.
 
#10
bunsen27 said:
Rifle Basix SAV-1 set at 24oz is what I run on my .260Rem and 6.5SAUM builds. The 6.5Creedy still has the stock Accu-trigger around 32oz. YMMV
Click to expand...

Hey, I am getting ready to do a lighter green paint job on a stock and, from looking at the pics you posted, am thinking that I want to do it pretty much in the light green that appears on the lower of the two stocks you have in the pic you posted. So...what color is that? I'm kind of hoping that it is a DuraCoat color as I have had great luck with their (somewhat expensive!) paints. The color I am asking about is the one that is on the front part of the pistol grip and there is also a blob of it on the side of the stock not too far (maybe 6 or 8 inches?) to the rear of the pistol grip on the R/H side of the stock.

Thanks!!
 
#11
dondlhmn said:
Hey, I am getting ready to do a lighter green paint job on a stock and, from looking at the pics you posted, am thinking that I want to do it pretty much in the light green that appears on the lower of the two stocks you have in the pic you posted. So...what color is that? I'm kind of hoping that it is a DuraCoat color as I have had great luck with their (somewhat expensive!) paints. The color I am asking about is the one that is on the front part of the pistol grip and there is also a blob of it on the side of the stock not too far (maybe 6 or 8 inches?) to the rear of the pistol grip on the R/H side of the stock.

Thanks!!
Click to expand...

http://www.snipershide.com/shooting...-coatings-camo-pics-thread-5.html#post2813800

The color you are inquiring about is actually Cerakote Desert Verde that Shortbus matched in his normal paints. It varies from green to yellow dependent on the lighting. In Duracoat colors I'd look at #'s: 10, 112, 117, 176, 163, 159, 32. Green can be a very finicky color to get JUST the shade you want.
 
#12
bunsen27 said:
http://www.snipershide.com/shooting...-coatings-camo-pics-thread-5.html#post2813800

The color you are inquiring about is actually Cerakote Desert Verde that Shortbus matched in his normal paints. It varies from green to yellow dependent on the lighting. In Duracoat colors I'd look at #'s: 10, 112, 117, 176, 163, 159, 32. Green can be a very finicky color to get JUST the shade you want.
Click to expand...

Yeah...getting the green I want has always been tough. Currently I tend to paint stocks in one color and then adapt the cammo to the season and the local flora colors using stuff I pick from the what is out there. One can never find a cammo that works all the time, everywhere. From my military experience I learned that among cammos that aren't JUST PERFECT, a too dark setup will pretty much ALWAYS be spotted before one that is a similar number of shades too light. Therefore, I tend to go on the lighter end of the spectrum and then modify that with the current colors from the area. As far as looks goes, I tend to like the color from DuraCoat called German Olive Gray (#32 IRRC) in a basic one color paint job and the dessert tans or multi beige if I am going off in the browner direction. I have some of both left and want to use some of the other DuraCoat stuff I have around and maybe come up with something that is a little lighter than the German Olive Gray. You don't happen to remember what colors/numbers he used and in what ratios, do you?
 
#13
I, for one, really like the Accutrigger setup. While I do modify the springs geometry, and swap them around, it gets down to where I want it, and it is SAFE!!

I absolutely hated my SSS Comp trigger, and promptly sold it to a poor ol chap in Canada. Other than the Accutrigger, the only trigger that I really like, is the SAV-1. It might take a bit to get it adjusted to exactly where you want it, but it is a great trigger. I just prefer the overall "safe" aspects of the Accutrigger.

Play around with it before you decide to change it out, you might be pleasantly surprised!!

DK
 
#14
Go over to the Savage site and look back at all of the neg. comments on SSS. There are 2-3 neg. for every pos. I have had a rifle built by him and never again. Nothing was done right and they would not answer after they had my money. It shot OK but the finish work was as bad as TR rifles or worse.
 
#15
turbo54 said:
A few thoughts:

I'd NEVER EVER EVER do business with SSS again. Fred can eat a dick.

I haven't seen an aftermarket trigger for Savage that I really like. The trigger/sear design of a Savage is shit, and in my opinion, MUST have the safety system of the accurelease (the "blade") to safely tune down by decreasing pull weight and sear engagement for creep-free release. There is a reason savage designed and included the blade on the accutrigger.

Most accutrigger owners have had a "lockup" when closing the bolt - without the blade, that would of been a slam fire.

There are mechanical reasons why this applies to Savage much more so than Remington or Winchester and it comes down to geometry.

I had an RB Sav1, and could not SAFELY get it below 2.5lb AND be creep-free.

I have an RB Sav2, which is a significant improvement over the Sav1, but I still don't truly trust it.

The key difference between the 1 and 2, is the 2 has an intermediate lever between trigger and sear that gives the trigger mechanical advantage over the sear. Thus compounding trigger force in order to release the sear. This makes it easy to get very low trigger pull weight, but exaggerates any creep.

It is always a delicate balance between enough sear engagement for safety and little enough to be creep free.

Personally, for a field rifle, I think the OEM accutrigger is the best bet.
Click to expand...
I know this is an ancient thread but I just had a lousy experience with a Rifle Basix SAV-1 in a Savage Elite Precision. I installed it, followed the directions, and was adjusting the sear engagement and trigger pull weight adjusting screws. Got inconsistent trigger pull weights. Adjusting the safety screw I realized the trigger pull weight spring in the RB bears against the sliding safety instead of against the stationary reciever frame like the original accutrigger. RB moved the position of the trigger pull spring, and it bears against a sliding part with a bunch of slop in it. Bad idea. I got slam fires by closing the bolt hard. So I kept adjusting to get rid of slam fires and end up at over 2 lb trigger pull - worse than the original accutrigger. Studying it, the top end of the trigger pull spring moves laterally when the safety is manipulated, causing lateral forces on the spring end and varying spring force. I have paperwork instructions stating to crank the RB sear engagement adjusting screw in until the trigger breaks, then back it out 1/4 to 1/2 turn, to get desired sear engagement. I went through all of that and I found it impossible to get the RB to 14 ounces with no slamfires and consistent pull. Another bad RB feature is their sear engagement adjusting screw mars the sharp edge of the sear as it is drawn accross the screw tip. I don't like this particular accutrigger, as it is creepy and a bit heavy, but I did get one sub 1/4MOA group with my first set of test loads. I guess Savage just cheaped out on their whole trigger assembly in this rifle. I don't like a long skinny sear design either. So I removed the RB and put the original accutrigger back in, which I have at about 1.4 pounds. Get what you pay for. It appears I need to spend another $1 or $2K more on the next rifle to be free of these trigger issues.
 
#19
Fupananvil said:
I know this is an ancient thread but I just had a lousy experience with a Rifle Basix SAV-1 in a Savage Elite Precision. I installed it, followed the directions, and was adjusting the sear engagement and trigger pull weight adjusting screws. Got inconsistent trigger pull weights. Adjusting the safety screw I realized the trigger pull weight spring in the RB bears against the sliding safety instead of against the stationary reciever frame like the original accutrigger. RB moved the position of the trigger pull spring, and it bears against a sliding part with a bunch of slop in it. Bad idea. I got slam fires by closing the bolt hard. So I kept adjusting to get rid of slam fires and end up at over 2 lb trigger pull - worse than the original accutrigger. Studying it, the top end of the trigger pull spring moves laterally when the safety is manipulated, causing lateral forces on the spring end and varying spring force. I have paperwork instructions stating to crank the RB sear engagement adjusting screw in until the trigger breaks, then back it out 1/4 to 1/2 turn, to get desired sear engagement. I went through all of that and I found it impossible to get the RB to 14 ounces with no slamfires and consistent pull. Another bad RB feature is their sear engagement adjusting screw mars the sharp edge of the sear as it is drawn accross the screw tip. I don't like this particular accutrigger, as it is creepy and a bit heavy, but I did get one sub 1/4MOA group with my first set of test loads. I guess Savage just cheaped out on their whole trigger assembly in this rifle. I don't like a long skinny sear design either. So I removed the RB and put the original accutrigger back in, which I have at about 1.4 pounds. Get what you pay for. It appears I need to spend another $1 or $2K more on the next rifle to be free of these trigger issues.
Click to expand...
Plenty of excellent aftermarket savage triggers available if you do some research and spend the money.
 
#20
I know this is an ancient thread,
A few Benchresters at the range I frequent rave about the RB2 set at about 2oz.
I set the wife's Kitchen Assembled Savage with an AccuTrigger to 2oz blade/7oz total.
Shimming is a MUST with the AccuTrigger.
I used a 0.3mm X 5mm X 15mm spring, a C-582 trigger spring and shims from Shively.
 
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#21
Fupananvil said:
I know this is an ancient thread but I just had a lousy experience with a Rifle Basix SAV-1 in a Savage Elite Precision. I installed it, followed the directions, and was adjusting the sear engagement and trigger pull weight adjusting screws. Got inconsistent trigger pull weights. Adjusting the safety screw I realized the trigger pull weight spring in the RB bears against the sliding safety instead of against the stationary reciever frame like the original accutrigger. RB moved the position of the trigger pull spring, and it bears against a sliding part with a bunch of slop in it. Bad idea. I got slam fires by closing the bolt hard. So I kept adjusting to get rid of slam fires and end up at over 2 lb trigger pull - worse than the original accutrigger. Studying it, the top end of the trigger pull spring moves laterally when the safety is manipulated, causing lateral forces on the spring end and varying spring force. I have paperwork instructions stating to crank the RB sear engagement adjusting screw in until the trigger breaks, then back it out 1/4 to 1/2 turn, to get desired sear engagement. I went through all of that and I found it impossible to get the RB to 14 ounces with no slamfires and consistent pull. Another bad RB feature is their sear engagement adjusting screw mars the sharp edge of the sear as it is drawn accross the screw tip. I don't like this particular accutrigger, as it is creepy and a bit heavy, but I did get one sub 1/4MOA group with my first set of test loads. I guess Savage just cheaped out on their whole trigger assembly in this rifle. I don't like a long skinny sear design either. So I removed the RB and put the original accutrigger back in, which I have at about 1.4 pounds. Get what you pay for. It appears I need to spend another $1 or $2K more on the next rifle to be free of these trigger issues.
Click to expand...
Have you looked at the timney triggers?
Savage's trigger design leaves a lot to be desired.
Really, when you consider the price for a savage action, a mack bros or Origin aren't really that much more.
Hell, with the origin, you can use your existing savage barrels with the nut.
It is my understanding that if you were to call rifle basix, you'll likely talk to the owner, maybe he can give you some pointers.
I don't know if Kevin Rayhill is still in business (stockade gunstocks) but he was the other go to for anything Savage.
 
#22
Rocketvapor said:
I know this is an ancient thread,
A few Benchresters at the range I frequent rave about the RB2 set at about 2oz.
I set the wife's Kitchen Assembled Savage with an AccuTrigger to 2oz blade/7oz total.
Shimming is a MUST with the AccuTrigger.
I used a 0.3mm X 5mm X 15mm spring, a C-582 trigger spring and shims from Shively.
Click to expand...

Basement assembly in my case as the wife has declared the kitchen her territory and doesn't shoot. When she retired I got caught using the oven to dry cases after wet tumbling - I used to do it when she was at work. I got evicted from the kitchen for such tasks. I had to buy a case dryer, which I like better anyhow.

Where do you place shims?
Is that spring used to replace the trigger pull force spring?
Do you gradually trim its length to reduce force of trigger pull?
I am guessing using the original Savage trigger parts will leave the creep the same as there is a lot of engagement depth and that is not adjustable other than by metal removal.
 
#23
fdkay said:
Have you looked at the timney triggers?
Savage's trigger design leaves a lot to be desired.
Really, when you consider the price for a savage action, a mack bros or Origin aren't really that much more.
Hell, with the origin, you can use your existing savage barrels with the nut.
It is my understanding that if you were to call rifle basix, you'll likely talk to the owner, maybe he can give you some pointers.
I don't know if Kevin Rayhill is still in business (stockade gunstocks) but he was the other go to for anything Savage.
Click to expand...
I looked at (online) a Timney trigger that looks very similar to the Rifle Basix SAV1 - it is just the trigger blade itself. What I don't know is whether it too changes the trigger pull weight spring location or if its tail is longer than the RB SAV1 and uses the same spring location as the original Savage trigger. I would much prefer that original location with the spring bearing against the reciever, not against the moving safety slider. Anybody know?
While I generally shoot paper and steel without using the safety, it is a feature that guarantees poor repeatability. That feature on the RB SAV1 makes me cross it off the list, so I won't be calling RB.
As far as going to a different action, I'm not going to do that as I just bought this factory MDT chassis rifle recently and test loads show it shoots quite well. My round count is currently just past break in. I just want to improve the trigger - it's like I am straining to hold sight picture waiting for the trigger to break.
 
#24
I'm sure many brands of triggers are better than the Savage Accutrigger, in stock form.
The side play between the hanger and trigger can cause false drops if pull isn't really straight.
A slight side force pulling the trigger gets worse at you reduce pull.
Savage Trigger shims (Googlefu) from Shively Shims can be used to reduce side play to minimum.
Even if the sear doesn't drop with side play the matching surfaces between the sear and trigger can cause poor 'feel'.
Takes a little experimenting to get the shims 'just right'.
Not my idea, been done for years.

Many don't like the Safety Blade. I think the stock pull for the blade is about 8oz. The blade also puts force on the trigger.
If you try to reduce total pull force the blade almost trips the trigger for you.
I (non-expert) recommend blade force be kept to 25 to 50% of total force.
I use a 0.3mm X 5mm X 15mm chinesium spring with the end turned up to enter hole in trigger bar.

Trim as needed for maybe 2oz. 1oz blade force and the blade is slow to return.
Use a calibrated trigger finger or a pull gauge when working trigger springs.
AccuTrigger-Blade-Force.jpg

Spring-loop.jpg


For the trigger spring do a Google/Youtube search for C-582 trigger spring.
Bend a short tip up on one end, test and trim bottom as needed.
Again, these are long time known mods for a decent 6 to 8oz pull with the Accutrigger.
7oz-trigger.jpg
 
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#26
Rocketvapor said:
I'm sure many brands of triggers are better than the Savage Accutrigger, in stock form.
The side play between the hanger and trigger can cause false drops if pull isn't really straight.
A slight side force pulling the trigger gets worse at you reduce pull.
Savage Trigger shims (Googlefu) from Shively Shims can be used to reduce side play to minimum.
Even if the sear doesn't drop with side play the matching surfaces between the sear and trigger can cause poor 'feel'.
Takes a little experimenting to get the shims 'just right'.
Not my idea, been done for years.

Many don't like the Safety Blade. I think the stock pull for the blade is about 8oz. The blade also puts force on the trigger.
If you try to reduce total pull force the blade almost trips the trigger for you.
I (non-expert) recommend blade force be kept to 25 to 50% of total force.
I use a 0.3mm X 5mm X 15mm chinesium spring with the end turned up to enter hole in trigger bar.

Trim as needed for maybe 2oz. 1oz blade force and the blade is slow to return.
Use a calibrated trigger finger or a pull gauge when working trigger springs.
View attachment 8444064
View attachment 8444066

For the trigger spring do a Google/Youtube search for C-582 trigger spring.
Bend a short tip up on one end, test and trim bottom as needed.
Again, these are long time known mods for a decent 6 to 8oz pull with the Accutrigger.
View attachment 8444076
Click to expand...
Thank you very much for the clear, solid advice with pictures and sources. That is a menu for me to follow. I will target a pull force of 3/4 to 1 lb rather than 1/2 pound; my preference not to go too light. Shoot it, and see how it goes.
 
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#28
Put an ELF in my fathers Savage. It is a solid trigger, break is nice and clean. Feels real good and I would not hesitate to buy another one if I wanted something cheaper than a JARD. I have a JARD trigger in a Savage I own. They are very close when comparing them side by side. The winner comparing the two is the JARD though. The break is cleaner and slightly more crisp, but it's splitting hairs. Just compared the JARD to a TT, and it's close. The JARD feeling... softer, but with a crisp break. It's hard to describe. There might be just a tiny, minuscule amount of rollover of the trigger as the JARD sear releases and that is why it feels softer. Watching the trigger as I squeeze, I think I see it move before it breaks, other times I don't. That is how tiny it is. Of course, TT doesn't make a Savage drop in replacement. Only JARD does, and to me it is very very close. So if you are used to a TT trigger, get the JARD I would say.
Both of these are in older savages with the top bolt release/pre accutrigger.
 
#29
loveha said:
Put an ELF in my fathers Savage. It is a solid trigger, break is nice and clean. Feels real good and I would not hesitate to buy another one if I wanted something cheaper than a JARD. I have a JARD trigger in a Savage I own. They are very close when comparing them side by side. The winner comparing the two is the JARD though. The break is cleaner and slightly more crisp, but it's splitting hairs. Just compared the JARD to a TT, and it's close. The JARD feeling... softer, but with a crisp break. It's hard to describe. There might be just a tiny, minuscule amount of rollover of the trigger as the JARD sear releases and that is why it feels softer. Watching the trigger as I squeeze, I think I see it move before it breaks, other times I don't. That is how tiny it is. Of course, TT doesn't make a Savage drop in replacement. Only JARD does, and to me it is very very close. So if you are used to a TT trigger, get the JARD I would say.
Both of these are in older savages with the top bolt release/pre accutrigger.
Click to expand...
OK, mine is a new savage and has the top bolt release with the sliding thumb safety centered on the tail of the reciever. Does the trigger force spring in the ELF ride on the sliding safety block?
 
#32
Rocketvapor said:
I'm sure many brands of triggers are better than the Savage Accutrigger, in stock form.
The side play between the hanger and trigger can cause false drops if pull isn't really straight.
A slight side force pulling the trigger gets worse at you reduce pull.
Savage Trigger shims (Googlefu) from Shively Shims can be used to reduce side play to minimum.
Even if the sear doesn't drop with side play the matching surfaces between the sear and trigger can cause poor 'feel'.
Takes a little experimenting to get the shims 'just right'.
Not my idea, been done for years.

Many don't like the Safety Blade. I think the stock pull for the blade is about 8oz. The blade also puts force on the trigger.
If you try to reduce total pull force the blade almost trips the trigger for you.
I (non-expert) recommend blade force be kept to 25 to 50% of total force.
I use a 0.3mm X 5mm X 15mm chinesium spring with the end turned up to enter hole in trigger bar.

Trim as needed for maybe 2oz. 1oz blade force and the blade is slow to return.
Use a calibrated trigger finger or a pull gauge when working trigger springs.
View attachment 8444064
View attachment 8444066

For the trigger spring do a Google/Youtube search for C-582 trigger spring.
Bend a short tip up on one end, test and trim bottom as needed.
Again, these are long time known mods for a decent 6 to 8oz pull with the Accutrigger.
View attachment 8444076
Click to expand...
I'm gathering parts. The C-582 springs arrived yesterday; Shively shims have shipped. I am looking forward to trying these changes.
 
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#33
Remember to keep Blade force MUCH LESS than Total trigger force.
The blade spring presses on the trigger and can make trigger pull vary.
You need something to keep the springs in place top and bottom.
Bending a tip on both ends will do it on the trigger spring.
A cut and tapered 10X24 Allen head screw is better. A little dab of locktite will keep it set.
I ordered a 10 pack of the 0.3mm X 5mm X 15mm springs from Ebay for the blade spring. Others may work.
And, I recommend a spring gauge while experimenting.
C-582-Mod.jpg
 
Last edited:
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#34
Rocketvapor said:
Remember to keep Blade force MUCH LESS than Total trigger force.
The blade spring presses on the trigger and can make trigger pull vary.
You need something to keep the springs in place top and bottom.
Bending a tip on both ends will do it on the trigger spring.
A cut and tapered 10X24 Allen head screw is better. A little dab of locktite will keep it set.
I ordered a 10 pack of the 0.3mm X 5mm X 15mm springs from Ebay for the blade spring. Others may work.
And, I recommend a spring gauge while experimenting.
View attachment 8446796
Click to expand...
Thanks again for tips and pics. I just ordered probably the same 0.3 springs from ebay just before reading this. I'll get a set screw also - I might have one floating around. I have an accutrigger on a Savage FV-SR which feels a lot better than this centerfire trigger, and I never had to do much to that trigger other than adjust it down.
 
#35
Getting the total pull under a pound will make the creep less noticeable.
I find that the 2oz/7oz pull gives a step you can feel and hold, and the sear releases with a 'snick'.
Pulls over a pound and your finger feels the sear creep up until it releases.

Reworking the Accutrigger probably will NEVER be as good as some of the commercial replacements, but my wife, new to bolt guns, loves it. After some more trigger time I MIGHT go a LITTLE lighter for her.

Once you get the trigger exactly the way you like, it'll be time to go into the bolt and firing pin :cool:
 
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#36
I tried the Timney for the Savage and wasn't completely satisfied. I then went with the Jard 3 lever trigger assembly and it was the cat's ass!

I actually wore out my stock accutrigger to where it was dropping off the sear onto the safety blade when running the bolt hard. I can run the bolt as hard as I want to with the Jard and everything runs as it should.
 
#37
What part/surface did you Wear Out on your Accutrigger?
How many trigger pulls does it take to wear out a trigger?
My Opinion:
Savage needs to do something with side play between trigger and hanger, the real cause of sear drop.
Until they do, users need to SHIM the trigger.
The lighter you have set the pull, the easier it is to apply side force or slam the bolt and trip the sear.
Shims available from Shively Shims or GunShack.
 
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#38
In 2003 I bought a left hand .308 Tactical model with the new Accutrigger.
That rifle has changed calibers so many times I've lost count, as well as the round count through the action, but it has the same factory accutrigger with nary an issue.
I've put a lot of rounds through my stable of savage rifle's that still sport the factory accutrigger and never wore one out.
I've only had a handful that required shimming, but I agree that since it's cheap and easily accomplished, it should be done by the factory.

SJC
 
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#39
Rocketvapor said:
Getting the total pull under a pound will make the creep less noticeable.
I find that the 2oz/7oz pull gives a step you can feel and hold, and the sear releases with a 'snick'.
Pulls over a pound and your finger feels the sear creep up until it releases.

Reworking the Accutrigger probably will NEVER be as good as some of the commercial replacements, but my wife, new to bolt guns, loves it. After some more trigger time I MIGHT go a LITTLE lighter for her.

Once you get the trigger exactly the way you like, it'll be time to go into the bolt and firing pin :cool:
Click to expand...
OK, I'm willing to open the can of worms. What work do you recommend on the bolt and firing pin? The Shively shims arrived in today's mail so if time allows I may have at that shimming even though I don't have the allen screw and one replacement spring on hand yet. I can see what one change at a time does better anyhow by not doing everything all at once.
 
#40
Get the trigger done first :)
If you have the C-582 trigger spring don't go too low until you can drop the blade force.
Trigger will act funny if blade is 8 oz and total force is 10 oz.
Don't lose the E-Clip, maybe work in a plastic bag :)
 
#41
Rocketvapor said:
Get the trigger done first :)
If you have the C-582 trigger spring don't go too low until you can drop the blade force.
Trigger will act funny if blade is 8 oz and total force is 10 oz.
Don't lose the E-Clip, maybe work in a plastic bag :)
Click to expand...
A quick summary skipping various measurements made with other shim combos. I observed trigger frame opening of 0.266 - 0.268; seems like the bent metal housing is not quite square, and I'm not going to attempt to mess with it as it looks like something I'd probably make worse. A trigger width of 0.244 gave me an approximate calculated lateral clearance of 0.022 - 0.024. I went with a pink and blue on each side of the trigger blade, which is 2 x 0.008 + 2 x 0.003 = 0.022 total shim thickness. I did notice the sear itself moves around on its pin some but haven't done anything with that. The trigger has a wee bit of lateral play left but going tighter on shims didn't seem to help. Trigger force before shims installation was observed with a Wagner FDK 32 which reads 4 - 32 ounces below. Previous effort I had been using a 1 - 10 pound gage. In all cases the accublade is approximately 6.5 - 7.5 ounces; difficult to call it when it is all the way home setting even with the trigger due to geometry of the hook I use on the guage.

30.5, 24, 24.75, 26.5, 27.75, 23.25, 20, 24
Not sure if first high reading was me - it may have been a bad reading. Ran a bunch to see if I would get another 30+ and didn't.

After shim installation that I settled on (other shim combos tighter and looser were tried and I'll skip reporting all that):

Same accutrigger forces; trigger pulls:
22, 22.5, 20, 20, 21.75

So the average trigger pull dropped and the variation is reduced just with the shims.

I did try a couple different sear lubes including clean and dry, moly and remoil, and a silicon grease for disc brake pins. IIRC it had a bit of clear grease from the factory. Initial readings were with moly and after shim installation readings are with moly/remoil. That lube seemed best for now. I looked at the sear with a stereo mic and its sharp edge seems to drag pretty far across the trigger when cocking, which seems to shine and dull its corner edge. Doesn't look like the sear engagement screw on the Rifle Basix SAV-1 I had tried did any edge damage.

I'll wait for the accutriger blade springs to arrive. In the absence of the 10-24 allen screws I ordered, I did make a slotted 10-24 screw from a round headed screw, tapered the end and did try a C-582 with an end turned up for the little hole in the frame and its other end shortened gradually. I got rather high wonky trigger force results with the original blade spring in place; put the original springs back in then read your latest advice telling not to do what I just tried. My trigger force results with the shims pretty much reflect what Mr. Shively stated would happen in a few emails we exchanged prior to their arrival.
 
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#42
Good start.
I also found the hanger on mine wasn't square. It's the spacing at the pin that matters, unless the trigger drags on a narrow spot in the hanger.
Getting MOST of the slop out should make the trigger less susceptible to sear fall without adding more friction.
It also keeps the trigger aligned and the sear should work into this alignment.
You don't need to be perfectly equal on both sides of the trigger.
Cocking will probably reduce trigger pull with time as the sear wears in to the trigger.
With 22oz pull the original 7oz blade spring will probably be OK.
I "think" 25 to 50% of total pull is safe and not disturb trigger function.
Since you probably have 5 C-582 springs try one with one more loop cut off. Getting to about 16oz total pull with a 7oz blade force.
You can always adjust UP with the set screw.
Less than that wait for the lighter blade spring.
The Blade will wobble around on the trigger pin and it's slot. The wobble keeps from putting some side force on the trigger/sear alignment.

The sear will wobble on the pin until you have a bolt/cocking pin putting several pounds of force on it.

What did you mean with "I got rather high wonky trigger force results with the original blade spring in place; put the original springs back in".
What is your TOTAL pull force without the blade spring (no blade spring, only trigger spring) and with the original blade spring (both springs installed)?
 
Last edited:
#44
John,
I'll agree that the ELF trigger is probably better than the Accutrigger. Probably other brands also.
I think the biggest advantage of the AccuTrigger (which many don't like) is the safety blade.
Getting the Blade force down and it's not as aggravating.
The AccuTrigger, shimmed, and with a 2oz Blade/7-8oz total force is a big improvement over the stock factory trigger.
The blade is hardly noticeable and the pull has a defined shelf that is easy to feel.
Trigger feel is better when the force is lower than most stock triggers.

It will NEVER be a light 2oz trigger.
 
#46
Rocketvapor said:
Good start.
I also found the hanger on mine wasn't square. It's the spacing at the pin that matters, unless the trigger drags on a narrow spot in the hanger.
Getting MOST of the slop out should make the trigger less susceptible to sear fall without adding more friction.
It also keeps the trigger aligned and the sear should work into this alignment.
You don't need to be perfectly equal on both sides of the trigger.
Cocking will probably reduce trigger pull with time as the sear wears in to the trigger.
With 22oz pull the original 7oz blade spring will probably be OK.
I "think" 25 to 50% of total pull is safe and not disturb trigger function.
Since you probably have 5 C-582 springs try one with one more loop cut off. Getting to about 16oz total pull with a 7oz blade force.
You can always adjust UP with the set screw.
Less than that wait for the lighter blade spring.
The Blade will wobble around on the trigger pin and it's slot. The wobble keeps from putting some side force on the trigger/sear alignment.

The sear will wobble on the pin until you have a bolt/cocking pin putting several pounds of force on it.

What did you mean with "I got rather high wonky trigger force results with the original blade spring in place; put the original springs back in".
What is your TOTAL pull force without the blade spring (no blade spring, only trigger spring) and with the original blade spring (both springs installed)?
Click to expand...
Rather high wonky trigger force was observed with original blade spring in place and a modified C-582 of various lengths on trigger. I think I cut too much off in each iteration and ended up with failure to cock before getting the desired lower trigger pull, so I put it all back together with OEM stuff and the shims. I did not measure total pull force without the blade spring. My reported pull forces above are with both springs installed. I had had enough for one go around session and wanted to clear my workbench for reloading also - I'd like to shoot it this weekend and don't have any ammo made up. BTW, several weeks ago I attempted some mods using the original trigger spring by cutting off its turned up end and a bit of one coil where it contacts the frame. So even that trigger spring is no longer in its original configuration. It seems to stay square to the reciever without the turned up tip, not shooting it, but removing it was probably not a good idea as it may not repeat well as it moves shot to shot especially with recoil added. I may buy a new OEM trigger spring.
 
#47
Rocketvapor said:
John,
I'll agree that the ELF trigger is probably better than the Accutrigger. Probably other brands also.
I think the biggest advantage of the AccuTrigger (which many don't like) is the safety blade.
Getting the Blade force down and it's not as aggravating.
The AccuTrigger, shimmed, and with a 2oz Blade/7-8oz total force is a big improvement over the stock factory trigger.
The blade is hardly noticeable and the pull has a defined shelf that is easy to feel.
Trigger feel is better when the force is lower than most stock triggers.

It will NEVER be a light 2oz trigger.
Click to expand...
I got all my springs and parts today and when I got the trigger down to a consistent 18-19 ounces it failed the wood mallet to the rear of the action test, so I did not leave those parts in. The trigger felt great and repeated well, but it wasn't safe. With the shims left in it is breaking at about 25 ounces, and the accublade is about 6 ounces. I clipped the poking ends off the original springs so I'm getting side loading due to non- vertical spring force. I had better numbers before doing that clipping, so I'm going to order new OEM springs.
Can your wife's 2 oz blade/ 7 oz total pull setup withstand a blow from a wood mallet to the back of the reciever? Also running the bolt hard closed?
 
#48
I can slap the stock, slam the bolt home, no false drops.
I can push sort of HARD to the side of the trigger and get a drop to the blade but nothing you would normally do.
Here's frames from video, both arefrom the left side, before trip and at trip.
SidePull-1.JPG


Can slap the stock and drop a couple inches but don't want to risk damage.
 
Last edited:
#49
I worked on it again today. I welded (should have brazed) a small washer to the allen screw that adjusts trigger pull (not the blade) so that I could have a spring sitting on the screw supported by a flat base that moves up and down with the screw. That is working better for me. I do have the spring facing end of the screw above the washer ground down in diameter to clear the spring inner diameter as you recommended. I settled for now on a setup that isn't dropped by mallet blows or bolt slams, and feels decent. The numbers are:
19.0, 18.75, 19.5, 20.25, 20.5, 19.75 ounces, so I'm at roughly 1 1/4 lb pull. I'm going to shoot it tomorrow and see if I like it. I think with the shims installed and lower pull force I'm not going to feel so much like I'm straining waiting for the trigger to break as I was with a heavier inconsistent trigger. I do have the end of the trimmed spring turned up to insert into the tiny hole in the receiver. I think the spring I settled on has closer coil spacing than the C-582 since I am essentially removing some active spring length with the washer welded on. The spring is 0.016 and stainless. I left the blade pull force at about 7 ounces.
Anyhow thanks for the advice. I got sidetracked with other projects.
 
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#50
Fupananvil said:
I worked on it again today. I welded (should have brazed) a small washer to the allen screw that adjusts trigger pull (not the blade) so that I could have a spring sitting on the screw supported by a flat base that moves up and down with the screw. That is working better for me. I do have the spring facing end of the screw above the washer ground down in diameter to clear the spring inner diameter as you recommended. I settled for now on a setup that isn't dropped by mallet blows or bolt slams, and feels decent. The numbers are:
19.0, 18.75, 19.5, 20.25, 20.5, 19.75 ounces, so I'm at roughly 1 1/4 lb pull. I'm going to shoot it tomorrow and see if I like it. I think with the shims installed and lower pull force I'm not going to feel so much like I'm straining waiting for the trigger to break as I was with a heavier inconsistent trigger. I do have the end of the trimmed spring turned up to insert into the tiny hole in the receiver. I think the spring I settled on has closer coil spacing than the C-582 since I am essentially removing some active spring length with the washer welded on. The spring is 0.016 and stainless. I left the blade pull force at about 7 ounces.
Anyhow thanks for the advice. I got sidetracked with other projects.
Click to expand...
Shot it today and am quite pleased with the trigger improvements - lighter and more consistent seems to have gottem rid of my dislike of the way it was from the factory at its minimum setting. I rang steel out to 1140 yards and ran out of ammo. Quite pleased with the rifle. I put a JKL horizontal bag rider on the bottom of the butt and I like that improvement too. Time to make more ammo for it.
 
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