Several months ago I bought a Century 21 neck turning lathe, off this site.........the drill powered one.........only took off enough to make the brass shine..............shot them today, and they seemed hard to chamber..........like they didn't want to go in to the chamber..........not the bullet, but the case........new Lapua brass...........I didn't chamfer the ends before the reload..........any ideas..............shooting from an AIAT..........
-
Having trouble using the site?
Contact support
Turning necks
- Thread starter Marinevet1
- Start date
I don't think your problem has anything to do with neck turning. Neck turning creates more case neck clearance.
I would guess that neck turning creates more neck clearance.......I would say it creates more concentric neck clearance........
I shot another 100 rounds of FGMM 175 gr..........and everything was good .........the hand loads were the same length that I had shot before I tried the neck turned ones........+ or - .005..........
I shot another 100 rounds of FGMM 175 gr..........and everything was good .........the hand loads were the same length that I had shot before I tried the neck turned ones........+ or - .005..........
Would you mind telling us a little more?
What cartridge are you working with?
Did you use an expander mandrel before turning the neck on a turning mandrel?
Does an un-turned case chamber okay?
What cartridge are you working with?
Did you use an expander mandrel before turning the neck on a turning mandrel?
Does an un-turned case chamber okay?
I've done a lot of neck turning over the years and never had such an issue. . . mainly because neck turning itself just does not do something to the brass making them harder to chamber. Something else is going on.
The best thing you can do is to take various measurements of the brass before turning and after tuning to actually see what's going on. I'm talking about measuring the key areas of the case, like the diameter at the .200 mark above the web and at the shoulder-body junction, the case's head space. Even neck wall thickness (e.g. measuring neck diameter of a loaded round, subtract caliber diameter and divide by 2). Then let us know what differences you find . . . if any.
.308.......Lapua brass..........haven't been reloading for long.........Covid thing...........I've loaded a probably 7-8 hundred rounds...........have a load that shoots really close to factory 175 GMM...........got a good deal on a great neck turning tool, and thought I would give it a try.........I do use an expander before I reload, and the brass was run thru it before it was turned..........I also use a neck sizing die before I load the bullet.......I shoot for .002 neck tension.........
And I have never had an issue with chambering any reloads............
It just seemed like the edge of the cartridge was catching on the entrance to the chamber.............I had an assortment of 20 rounds..........+ or - .005 in length , + or - .5 gr. of powder, which doesn't count..........
And I have never had an issue with chambering any reloads............
It just seemed like the edge of the cartridge was catching on the entrance to the chamber.............I had an assortment of 20 rounds..........+ or - .005 in length , + or - .5 gr. of powder, which doesn't count..........
Neck turning will remove any burr at the case mouth and can also remove any deburring chamfer depending on the amount of any chamfer on that outside of the case mouth. It could square up that edge, which theoretically could catch on something in the chamber. My neck turning as always been the last part of my case prep procedure for neck turning and there's never been such an issue.
New Lapua brass, it was not resized..........I'll try to get some measurements, and see if there is anything I am missing.........
If it’s a hard stop then it’s not brass dimensions. The case mouth catching on something is the likely culprit.
I had an issue when I first started reloading for bottleneck rifle a few years ago. I was full length resizing in a full length bushing die. Even though I was sizing down with a bushing, I wasn’t sizing down far enough and the brass would chamber hard, and then I’d have to bead the bolt open to get it out. Someone on the hide caught it when I posted up a bunch of measurements. This was all when I was setting up my dies, not loaded rounds. I realize your brass is brand new, but I’d measure the necks compared to the loaded rounds you know run well. May not be the culprit, but figured I’d share.
It will be a hard stop if the shoulders are too long. Been the case each time I didn't bump back enough. Very hard stop on a gas gun. Have to use a mallet on the charging handle.
@Marinevet1 Possible the chamber is head spaced short and the new FGMM brass is coming out the box shorter at the shoulders than the new Lapua brass. A comparator would reveal if this were the case.
No. A hard stop is when a sharp case mouth catches on the inside of the chamber in the shoulder area. It feels like a center punch hitting a steel plate.
A turning lathe is the one piece of gear you're missing to take you to the next level. Everyone is doing it but you. Your ammo could be a lot better. You probably dropped that one shot because of your eccentric necks. THAT ONE SHOT...EVERYONE ELSE IS DOING IT...RUSTY IS MISSING OUT...
Similar threads
Reloading Equipment
NEW Lapua 6BR NECK-TURNED Brass