(Concluded) AR-15 Custom Build

DangerDave

DangerDave

Sergeant of the Hide
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Jul 9, 2024
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#1
Hello,

I did some research and composed a list of different options for each component, to build a dream AR-15 rifle.

Stripped lower
- KAC sr-15 (no trigger guard) - $210
- JP Enterprises jp-15 (no trigger guard) - $195
- LMT mars-l - $350
- VLTOR vn-vra vulcan - $220
Lower parts kit
- ADM ambi controls - $70
- BCM enhanced (included pistol grip, trigger guard) - $120
- DD semi-auto (includes pistol grip, trigger guard) - $120
- Geissele standard (includes trigger guard) - $50
- JP Enterprises lpk-ltg (includes pistol grip, trigger guard) - $40
- LaRue Tactical - $50
- LWRC builder’s kit - $50
Trigger
- Geissele SSA-E X w/ lightning bow - $280
- Rise Armament ra-535 advanced performance - $260
- Timney competition - $230
- Triggertech diamond 1-stage flat wall - $300
Buffer kit
- ADM carbine length - $175
- BCM mil-spec carbine stock hardware mounting - $60
- Geissele premium mil-spec w/ super 42, H3 - $150
- LaRue Tactical receiver extension - $125
- LMT mrp/ar15 - $90
Stock
- B5 systems bravo - $90
- Magpul moe sl carbine mil-spec - $65
Pistol grip
- B5 systems - $30
- BCM mod 1 - $20
- Magpul moe-k2 - $20
Stripped/assembled upper
- ADM uic billet - $295
- BCM m4 - $130
- DD a4 - $145
- Geissele super duty - $120
- JP Enterprises jp-15 forged - $175
- LMT flat top - $210
- VLTOR mur - $200
Bolt carrier group
- ADM premium - $170
- BCM mpi auto - $200
- DD complete - $230
- JP Enterprises fmos w/ enhanced bolt - $375
- LaRue Tactical Texas spec 5.56 - $300
- LWRC di - $300
- Triarc Systems mil-spec - $190
Charging handle
- BCM ambi mod 3x3 large latches - $90
- Breek Arms sledgehammer - $80
- DD grip-n-rip - $110
- Geissele super - $90
- Radian raptor-lt ambi - $75
Barrel
- BCM bfh 16” mid-length - $325
- Criterion core - $330
- LMT 16” cl 5.56 NATO (includes gas block/tube, muzzle device) - $550
Handguard
- DD ar-15/m16 ddm4 lite rail 15” - $460
- Midwest Industries combat rail t-series one piece free float - $240
Gas block/tube
- BCM low profile (block + tube) - $60
- Superlative Arms adjustable (block + tube) - $120
Muzzle device
- F-1 dragon slay - $120
- Fortis red brake 5.56mm nitride - $60
- HUXWRX brake-qd 338 5/8x24 - $220
- Lantac dragon SilencerCo asr brake - $140
- Precision Armament m4-72 severe-duty comp - $90
- Surefire war comp flash hider - $170
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Complete Lower/Upper Custom Build
Lower
- ADM UIC w/ SL-stock - $900
- LMT MARS-L SOPMOD- $960
- LWRC M6 IC Enhanced OD Green w/ Geissele SSA-E trigger - $100
- Noveske Chainsaw - $680
- VLTOR VRA-RA5 w/ A5 (buffer kit only, no stock) - $345
Upper
- ADM Mod2 .223 Wylde - $1420
- BCM MCMR-15 - $830
- Daniel Defense M4A1 - $1500
- LaRue Tactical Complete AR-15 Match Grade 16” - $1300
- LWRC IC DI Competition 16” - $1200
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
complete factory rifle:
- Daniel Defense DDM4 V9 - $2075
- KAC SR-15 E3 MOD 2 M-LOK 16 -$2900
- LMT MARS-L MRP - $2750
- LWRC IC DI Tactical Grey Lipsey's Exclusive - $1995
 
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#2
Are you new to the AR platform? Is there something about Ill law that will not allow you to have a lower receiver transferred to an FFL? It may be easier to buy a complete upper and a complete lower and join them. Or buy a complete rifle if it is your first AR.
 
#4
What is missing here is what is your intended purpose/use/application for this build.
Presenting a list of many, many parts, the combination of which are probably in the thousands, with no direction as to your intended application, expectations and budget seems somewhat unproductive? For example, Are you building for LD precision (heavy SS hand lapped match barrels), or a lighter more tactically oriented build? Do you intend to compete? What level/type of competition? Etc. Etc. Your "Dream AR-15" is likely different that other shooters Dream.
 
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#8
Redlion said:
Are you new to the AR platform? Is there something about Ill law that will not allow you to have a lower receiver transferred to an FFL? It may be easier to buy a complete upper and a complete lower and join them. Or buy a complete rifle if it is your first AR.
Click to expand...
IL has an “assault weapon” ban in place and the court battles are ongoing. And yes, I am new to the AR platform.
 
#10
Rider47 said:
What is missing here is what is your intended purpose/use/application for this build.
Presenting a list of many, many parts, the combination of which are probably in the thousands, with no direction as to your intended application, expectations and budget seems somewhat unproductive? For example, Are you building for LD precision (heavy SS hand lapped match barrels), or a lighter more tactically oriented build? Do you intend to compete? What level/type of competition? Etc. Etc. Your "Dream AR-15" is likely different that other shooters Dream.
Click to expand...
I will admit that I do not have enough knowledge to even envision a dream build. Looking for guidance. I would use this gun for self defense if $hit goes down. Other than that, I will run drills on my property and haven’t thought much about competitions at all. I don’t even know what LD and all the other terms you have mentioned. Sorry for the trouble but genuinely looking for some advice and willing to learn.
 
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#14
My request to all: If you can help me shorten this list by removing the ones you wouldn’t prefer, that would be awesome.

I do not have any ARs and this will be my first one. So if you guys think that it’s better to buy a factory one instead of building, do let me know.
 
#19
Some of your choices are proprietary and not Milspec (they won't work together), if it was my first AR I would absolutely look at milspec. There are four kinds of AR imo. 1) long range (for 5.56) 18" plus barrel rifle length gas system. 2) A shorty, 10.3" to 12.5", carbine length gas system 3) The Recce (don't flame me) so something with a carbine or mid length gas system, 14.5 to 16.5" 4) Competition ARs ( a whole different animal, there are a lot of people on this forum that know a lot about it.

There are three kinds of way to acquire the AR 1) Build it from scratch (which is some of what you are implying with your list). 2) Semi build, you build the lower and buy an upper or vice versa 3) Buy a fully built rifle.

To me, the best choice is going to be driven by need, like what do you want the AR to do.

If it were me, I would buy a choice 3 above, probably a 14.5" that is pinned. I would shoot it and then figure out what I want on a second rifle.

I would look at BCM or SOLGW.
 
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#20
ut755ln said:
Some of your choices are proprietary and not Milspec (they won't work together), if it was my first AR I would absolutely look at milspec. There are four kinds of AR imo. 1) long range (for 5.56) 18" plus barrel rifle length gas system. 2) A shorty, 10.3" to 12.5", carbine length gas system 3) The Recce (don't flame me) so something with a carbine or mid length gas system, 14.5 to 16.5" 4) Competition ARs ( a whole different animal, there are a lot of people on this forum that know a lot about it.

There are three kinds of way to acquire the AR 1) Build it from scratch (which is some of what you are implying with your list). 2) Semi build, you build the lower and buy an upper or vice versa 3) Buy a fully built rifle.

To me, the best choice is going to be driven by need, like what do you want the AR to do.

If it were me, I would buy a choice 3 above, probably a 14.5" that is pinned. I would shoot it and then figure out what I want on a second rifle.

I would look at BCM or SOLGW.
Click to expand...
That was my concern when I made the list (parts compatibility). I think I want a mid-length w/ a 16" barrel. I don't know anything about the competitions. I don't have any ARs as of now and I could easily save up to buy one of the nicer factory models but building just sounds so much fun. I guess I could buy a complete rifle and build a second one when I improve my skills, maybe?! Anyways, thank you for the response.
 
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#21
All might be a moot point living in the state you do, but since you're absolutely a newbie to the platform, I will second the opinion to buy a factory rifle., that way you'll be sure it all (should) work together. Once you've run a few thousand rounds through it and you've had that rifle completely (and I do mean completely) disassembled a few times you'll have a better idea of what you want and/or need. And new high end parts do not guarantee they are made correctly...I recently saw a Criterion barrel fail headspace
 
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#22
johnnyvw said:
All might be a moot point living in the state you do, but since you're absolutely a newbie to the platform, I will second the opinion to buy a factory rifle., that way you'll be sure it all (should) work together. Once you've run a few thousand rounds through it and you've had that rifle completely (and I do mean completely) disassembled a few times you'll have a better idea of what you want and/or need. And new high end parts do not guarantee they are made correctly...I recently saw a Criterion barrel fail headspace
Click to expand...
Dang, that's crazy! I think I have decided to buy my first one and build one later as you and a couple of other guys on this thread have suggested. Can you delete a thread you've created? I couldn't find the option to do that.
 
#23
I put a Kahles K318i on a friend's Geissele Super Duty 5.56 recently, just to see how it would perform with a nice optic and match grade ammo.

With Federal GM 73 Berger, it immediately produced sub-MOA five-shot groups at 100 yards, with the best coming in at 0.65".

I'd get the 14.5" version with the pinned and welded HUXWRX flash hider.
 
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#24
MSTN said:
I put a Kahles K318i on a friend's Geissele Super Duty 5.56 recently, just to see how it would perform with a nice optic and match grade ammo.

With Federal GM 73 Berger, it immediately produced sub-MOA five-shot groups at 100 yards, with the best coming in at 0.65".

I'd get the 14.5" version with the pinned and welded HUXWRX flash hider.
Click to expand...
Thank you.
 
#25
MSTN said:
I put a Kahles K318i on a friend's Geissele Super Duty 5.56 recently, just to see how it would perform with a nice optic and match grade ammo.

With Federal GM 73 Berger, it immediately produced sub-MOA five-shot groups at 100 yards, with the best coming in at 0.65".

I'd get the 14.5" version with the pinned and welded HUXWRX flash hider.
Click to expand...
I was at the Ranch in Eagle Lake Texas and saw Henry and Josh (9 Holes Youtube) doing their filming of the Geissele URG-I Clone. They had one setup with a 1-8 ATACR and broke their service rifle course record with the thing getting hits out past 700 yards.

My URG-I upper showed up the next week and it is phenomenal with the Hux Flow.
 
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#26
Keep in mind pinned and welded shorter barrels are a PIA to remove a gas block, if you ever need or want to do that. I would recommend a standard 16" barrel with a standard screwed on muzzle device, until you get your feet wet. Just a thought...
 
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#27
johnnyvw said:
Keep in mind pinned and welded shorter barrels are a PIA to remove a gas block, if you ever need or want to do that. I would recommend a standard 16" barrel with a standard screwed on muzzle device, until you get your feet wet. Just a thought...
Click to expand...
That is true but my highest round count rifle is a DD MK18 with something like 20k rounds and it is still chugging along.
 
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#28
That's a lot of ammo! :) Certainly shows what a well built gun can do.

I was just thinking of the OP starting this thread about building one. With no experience, he's going to need to disassemble and reassemble an AR for experience. That's the only reason I mentioned it, so he was aware.
 
#29
I just read what I wrote above and it sounded wrong, sorry. My point was that a milspec AR with a CHF CL barrel will last way longer then people expect, he may never need to worry about changing anything on the rifle.
 
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#30
OP,

If AR’s are banned in your state, you won’t be able to purchase one. Or a lower.
Even if the law is being challenged, it’s still the law until overturned. WA resident here
 

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#31
Kickin45 said:
OP,

If AR’s are banned in your state, you won’t be able to purchase one. Or a lower.
Even if the law is being challenged, it’s still the law until overturned. WA resident here
Click to expand...
Yes, I cannot purchase a lower and have it transferred. But the law is so poorly written (just like any other tyrannical law), that it technically can’t stop the residents from purchasing other components. A friend who works for the Illinois State Police told me this.
 
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#32
Hello all,

I have decided to buy a complete AR for my first one. Thanks for all your comments/inputs/advice and appreciate the help. I'm pretty new to this forum and don't see an option to close this thread. What's the process to close or delete a thread?
 
#33
You need to educate yourself friend. Call some of your LGS and ask about a AR lol
Good luck buying and registering an illegal firearm in a State where they are banned.
Let us know how it goes for you, and what prison is like 🤣
 

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#34
Kickin45 said:
You need to educate yourself friend. Call some of your LGS and ask about a AR lol
Good luck buying and registering an illegal firearm in a State where they are banned.
Let us know how it goes for you, and what prison is like 🤣
Click to expand...
I’m talking about buying individual parts OTHER than a receiver. The law is very new and there’s no specific mention of not buying certain parts like stocks, buffer kits, grips, handguards, sights, lasers, muzzle brakes, slings, charging handles, etc. (if I build one, I would get all the parts I legally can and get the rest after the bill is overturned). If I do buy a complete AR, it will obviously be after the bill is overturned because I can’t buy or have one transferred right now. I hope you understand what I’m trying to say.
 
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#35
So why did you talk about building a complete rifle, include prices and a list of AR lowers and then say you were going to just buy a complete rifle? Inquiring minds want to know.
 
#36
oldrifleman said:
So why did you talk about building a complete rifle, include prices and a list of AR lowers and then say you were going to just buy a complete rifle? Inquiring minds want to know.
Click to expand...
You’re correct, that’s what I said. But I didn’t say that I’m getting in my car to go buy one now. The list has everything including lowers, so I would buy the ones I legally can now, save money up and buy the rest of the parts after bill is overturned.
 
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