Factory LH 223

The Savage 110 Storm comes in a LH Model in .223. The 110 line is a grade up from the Axis line. I have the Storm model in .223 ( RH ) and have enjoyed it very much. It has functioned flawlessly and is dead on accurate. Sub-MOA groups are no problem with loads it likes.
 
The Savage 110 Storm comes in a LH Model in .223. The 110 line is a grade up from the Axis line. I have the Storm model in .223 ( RH ) and have enjoyed it very much. It has functioned flawlessly and is dead on accurate. Sub-MOA groups are no problem with loads it likes.
Thanks! I didn’t want the bottom of the barrel. The 110 Storm looks great and priced reasonably
 
Build a custom, get what you want. Even if it’s building on a Savage action, it will be far better than trying to get a box to fit your circle. There are many custom action builders, most offering left handed actions, and all offer .223 bolt head. A decent prefit barrel, a nice trigger from Bix n Andy or Trigger Tech, and a decent but not necessarily top of the line chassis or stock, and you are good to go and Much, Much happier. Especially if you don’t want bottom of the line.

Factory rifles can be good. But not always. Get a factory dud, and you are stuck, either stuff it off on some other poor soul or spend a fortune trying to make it what it will never be, or live with it being a first rate gun safe queen. Get a problem with a rilfe you built, change out the defective part with a good one. Takes but a few minutes and you are good to go, you are the builder and in the end, you have the very best and most dependable quality control manager on the planet….YOU!

Speaking of custom build, our son built this rifle and loaned it to Brenda while her RPR was being rebuilt
It has a Savage action. The Girl Can Shoot.
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I'm it the same boat , I want a LH in 223. Here are a few of my research thoughts.
1. you didn't say what is your intended use ? As my Dr. told me "your MRI tells me you have been road hard and put up wet"
so I only shoot from a bench.
2. Tikka , I have a Tac 1, don't know about the CRT , but, as far as I know there are NO aftermarket LH triggers for Tikka's. If you don't mind about a 1/4" of 1st stage travel there are replacement trigger springs that get the 2nd stage down to about 16 + oz.
3. The Savage Storm, looks like it comes with a light Wt. BBL
4. A lot of my reading suggests that LH shooters should use RH rifles and RH shooters should use LH rifles. Even the USMC scout /sniper school used ** to teach LH shooters to use RH rifles. My thoughts are leading to starting with a budget RH 223 , probably the Savage Axis ll Precision as it comes in a chassis and has a 1-7 twist Bbl. to handle the heavier 223 bullets.

** thank you woke bidden
 
I'm it the same boat , I want a LH in 223. Here are a few of my research thoughts.
1. you didn't say what is your intended use ? As my Dr. told me "your MRI tells me you have been road hard and put up wet"
so I only shoot from a bench.
2. Tikka , I have a Tac 1, don't know about the CRT , but, as far as I know there are NO aftermarket LH triggers for Tikka's. If you don't mind about a 1/4" of 1st stage travel there are replacement trigger springs that get the 2nd stage down to about 16 + oz.
3. The Savage Storm, looks like it comes with a light Wt. BBL
4. A lot of my reading suggests that LH shooters should use RH rifles and RH shooters should use LH rifles. Even the USMC scout /sniper school used ** to teach LH shooters to use RH rifles. My thoughts are leading to starting with a budget RH 223 , probably the Savage Axis ll Precision as it comes in a chassis and has a 1-7 twist Bbl. to handle the heavier 223 bullets.

** thank you woke bidden
On point 2 check out this thread.
It continues in the post and going down the page some.
KRG Midas in left hand. Only issue right now is when you're engaging the safety, it feels like there's a middle position. I used the KRG spring so hopefully the stiffer Tikka spring will fix that.
 
It is against the SH creed to allow anyone to go the way of a " budget " gun!
True, but there's a reason for that. We've been down that road and it almost always ends in just building what you want, so why mess with the halfway measures and spend most of the money on those halfway measures, just get what you want to begin with and skip all that other crap, and have a much better rifle.
 
True, but there's a reason for that. We've been down that road and it almost always ends in just building what you want, so why mess with the halfway measures and spend most of the money on those halfway measures, just get what you want to begin with and skip all that other crap, and have a much better rifle.
AMEN Brother. The cheap route usually finds a bunch of stuff gathering dust in the back of the closet or gun safe. Get the right stuff the first time, and be happy. I know I have my dust collectors.
 
AMEN Brother. The cheap route usually finds a bunch of stuff gathering dust in the back of the closet or gun safe. Get the right stuff the first time, and be happy. I know I have my dust collectors.
I don`t necessarily disagree, but I would submit that an initial foray into almost ANYTHING sees many (most ? ) start off on the " budget " end of the scale. Maybe they just want to be sure that they`ll want to stick with whatever it is that they`re exploring. And as hard as it is perhaps for many " seasoned " SH posters to fathom, MAYBE they just don`t have the financial wherewithal to go from 0 to 60 in 2 seconds so to speak directly to an upper level ( maybe even mid-level ) piece by piece custom dream gun. Would that we could all do that!
 
I don`t necessarily disagree, but I would submit that an initial foray into almost ANYTHING sees many (most ? ) start off on the " budget " end of the scale. Maybe they just want to be sure that they`ll want to stick with whatever it is that they`re exploring. And as hard as it is perhaps for many " seasoned " SH posters to fathom, MAYBE they just don`t have the financial wherewithal to go from 0 to 60 in 2 seconds so to speak directly to an upper level ( maybe even mid-level ) piece by piece custom dream gun. Would that we could all do that!
That's why I always advocate taking a class first. A good class is less expensive than even a base Ruger American and a Leupold VX Freedom scope. I don't just do this on SH, but also elsewhere. Take the class, shoot a good loaner rifle, see where a fellow might can go and then make the financial decisions.

The fun of shooting steel is shooting steel. Its a lot easier with a good rifle and a quality scope. Finishing last place (or shooting for fun and never hitting a target) and looking really stupid is not fun if it remains extended. What is sad, is being saddled with cheap stuff that is holding the shooter back. What is sader is having a closet full of paid for stuff that isn't worth the dust it is collecting.

That is the point, take the class, find out what works and then spend the cash.
 
That's why I always advocate taking a class first. A good class is less expensive than even a base Ruger American and a Leupold VX Freedom scope. I don't just do this on SH, but also elsewhere. Take the class, shoot a good loaner rifle, see where a fellow might can go and then make the financial decisions.

The fun of shooting steel is shooting steel. Its a lot easier with a good rifle and a quality scope. Finishing last place (or shooting for fun and never hitting a target) and looking really stupid is not fun if it remains extended. What is sad, is being saddled with cheap stuff that is holding the shooter back. What is sader is having a closet full of paid for stuff that isn't worth the dust it is collecting.

That is the point, take the class, find out what works and then spend the cash.
I learned this years ago with guitars. An expensive PRS wont make you a better player...but it wont hold you back...and will hold its value. Cheap is always cheap.

On the other hand, Frank could out shoot me and my custom with a cheap Savage.
 
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That's why I always advocate taking a class first. A good class is less expensive than even a base Ruger American and a Leupold VX Freedom scope. I don't just do this on SH, but also elsewhere. Take the class, shoot a good loaner rifle, see where a fellow might can go and then make the financial decisions.

The fun of shooting steel is shooting steel. Its a lot easier with a good rifle and a quality scope. Finishing last place (or shooting for fun and never hitting a target) and looking really stupid is not fun if it remains extended. What is sad, is being saddled with cheap stuff that is holding the shooter back. What is sader is having a closet full of paid for stuff that isn't worth the dust it is collecting.

That is the point, take the class, find out what works and then spend the cash.
Good idea and fair points.
 
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2. I believe Bix'N Andy has a LH trigger. I've heard of people removing the safety to make RH triggers work though.

4. That works fine for short actions but what I've found with longer actions is I have to move my head way out of the way when cycling the bolt. On my brother's Savage 110 in 300WM, it was very clumsy to operate for me due to the bolt handle coming close to the scope too.


2. Tikka , I have a Tac 1, don't know about the CRT , but, as far as I know there are NO aftermarket LH triggers for Tikka's. If you don't mind about a 1/4" of 1st stage travel there are replacement trigger springs that get the 2nd stage down to about 16 + oz.

4. A lot of my reading suggests that LH shooters should use RH rifles and RH shooters should use LH rifles. Even the USMC scout /sniper school used ** to teach LH shooters to use RH rifles. My thoughts are leading to starting with a budget RH 223 , probably the Savage Axis ll Precision as it comes in a chassis and has a 1-7 twist Bbl. to handle the heavier 223 bullets.
 
I don`t necessarily disagree, but I would submit that an initial foray into almost ANYTHING sees many (most ? ) start off on the " budget " end of the scale. Maybe they just want to be sure that they`ll want to stick with whatever it is that they`re exploring. And as hard as it is perhaps for many " seasoned " SH posters to fathom, MAYBE they just don`t have the financial wherewithal to go from 0 to 60 in 2 seconds so to speak directly to an upper level ( maybe even mid-level ) piece by piece custom dream gun. Would that we could all do that!
I just got done building a custom 7mm rem mag. Funds are tight for another custom build
 
That's why I always advocate taking a class first. A good class is less expensive than even a base Ruger American and a Leupold VX Freedom scope. I don't just do this on SH, but also elsewhere. Take the class, shoot a good loaner rifle, see where a fellow might can go and then make the financial decisions.

The fun of shooting steel is shooting steel. Its a lot easier with a good rifle and a quality scope. Finishing last place (or shooting for fun and never hitting a target) and looking really stupid is not fun if it remains extended. What is sad, is being saddled with cheap stuff that is holding the shooter back. What is sader is having a closet full of paid for stuff that isn't worth the dust it is collecting.

That is the point, take the class, find out what works and then spend the cash.
I’d like to find a class in Arizona. I’m still trying to figure out how to dope in my kestrel for shots.
 
I’d like to find a class in Arizona. I’m still trying to figure out how to dope in my kestrel for shots.
I’m gonna make an “Ass Of Me.” (I am going to assume that you know how to operate the Kestrel)

There are quite a few posts on the hide to show you how. Basically, sight in your rifle, next go to Weaponized Math (it works) That will get you close enough to hit targets out to a thousand yards or more.

That will get you your true dope.


Then to true up your Kestrel , adjust your MV on the Kestrel to match the known sight data.


You can do a number of searches on the hide as this subject has been discussed multiple times.
 
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