Cleaning rod

Gryntch

Sergeant of the Hide
Full Member
Minuteman
Sep 16, 2023
108
44
Montague California
Hey guys I need input. I'm old school and have always used brass cleaning rod but now I hear that's bad so what do you suggest. Tipton, Dewey, or bore tech/ stainless, carbon fiber, nylon coated. Also what is a good bore guide? Thanks in advance
 
I have been using Dewey rods for over 20 years. Recently needed a couple new rods so I bought a carbon fiber Tipton and the top level bore tech.

My opinion, it really doesn’t matter, it’s a simple tool to push patched and brushes through the bore.

With that said, I like the bore tech handle the best.
 
I typically run boretech everything. Rods, jags and brushes. I use Tipton as well as Dewey if boretech isn’t available

The boretech eliminator is a great solvent. I clean with that and a few patches of butches gun oil in the bore. Always running a bore guide
 
I typically run boretech everything. Rods, jags and brushes. I use Tipton as well as Dewey if boretech isn’t available

The boretech eliminator is a great solvent. I clean with that and a few patches of butches gun oil in the bore. Always running a bore guide
hafe the Iosso brushes are pretty nice and last a bit longer....I just recently switched and will be using them moving forward.
 
When I had Dewey I had to use an adapter for the brushes and jags. It was annoying as they were different sizes. It was a 6.5 rod and have used it since went Boretech.

I know have a rimfire, .223, 6mm, and 6.5 Boretech rods. I got them several years about as they were like $25 cheaper then they are now.
 
I also like pro shot SS rods. I love the narrow handles for their ability to sneak over many buttpads and cheekrests. My Dewey rods have nicer to hold handles, but the handles are chunky and do not sneak over obstacles

I also have become fond of the longer proshot jags vs Dewey. They give me more cushion to not push the whole jag out past the muzzle. Not doing so minimizes the chance of damaging the crown.

Proshot just came out with coated rods, but I’m not sure what they’re about. Doesn’t seem like they are using a softer coating like my Dewey coated rods, so I don’t get the point of coating?

One tip with SS rods: if the interface between the jag and rod isn’t exactly perfect, don’t be afraid to use 600 and 1000 grit sandpaper to rectify the situation. Spin on the jag and lightly sand, then rinse the particles off with rubbing alcohol (if you’re gonna use the rod straight away) or water if you have time for it to dry off.
 
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As long as it is a one piece and good quality, brand does not really matter, there are a bunch of good ones. My go to right now is Tipton.
Agree. I personally use Tipton carbon fiber and stay away from metal ( other than bullets ) going down the bore. Probably clean a little more than I need to and like to let the solvents do their thing so hopefully I can prevent build up that might require metal brushes.

Possum Hollow makes a great bore guide IMHO.
 
I've used J Dewey Nylon Coated rods for years. I've been completely satisfied and I've had no reason to change. I have them in 20 cal, 22 cal 30 cal. and 35 cal. I have found no need for caliber specific rods for every caliber. But bore guides are a must, IMHO.
 
Agree. I personally use Tipton carbon fiber and stay away from metal ( other than bullets ) going down the bore. Probably clean a little more than I need to and like to let the solvents do their thing so hopefully I can prevent build up that might require metal brushes.

Possum Hollow makes a great bore guide IMHO.
Already have Dewey on the way thanks
 
I use both nylon and bronze. I have a really hard time believing that a softer metal (bronze) can damage a ss barrel. I believe @orkan did a video where he put a bronze brush in the barrel with a drill and didn’t do any damage. It just makes sense.

On top of that over the course of a most barrels life around 3k rounds, your going to clean the barrel what, 10-15 times?? I just don’t see a way it can damage the barrel.

I use the nylon brushes in the chamber because it’s easier to reverse direction vs a bronze, or when I use Iosso for carbon just in front of the chamber.
 
I use both nylon and bronze. I have a really hard time believing that a softer metal (bronze) can damage a ss barrel. I believe @orkan did a video where he put a bronze brush in the barrel with a drill and didn’t do any damage. It just makes sense.

On top of that over the course of a most barrels life around 3k rounds, your going to clean the barrel what, 10-15 times?? I just don’t see a way it can damage the barrel.

I use the nylon brushes in the chamber because it’s easier to reverse direction vs a bronze, or when I use Iosso for carbon just in front of the chamber.
I’m agree

I just got tired of the bronze falling apart

So I use nylon almost only

But still have some bronze

They feel like they do a better job scrubbing

But I bore scope and watch nylon do better?🤷🏽‍♂️
 
I have ran bore tech but never ME how would you compare them.
I have a bottle, opened it, smelled it, used it a few times, and put it on the shelf. They (ME) that it has ammonia AND they say it won't harm your barrel (ammonia etching it is the concern, right).

They may well be right and I'm just a Nervous Nellie but Bore Tech works very well for me so my thought is way explore further.

I also have used Butch's and it too is on the shelf. I did not leave them in for longer than 15 minutes and I saw no problem but again...BT works and is easy on my nose in a closed environment.

I have a barrel coming off soon....I think I will experiment with these products again on that.

I'm no expert so take it for what its worth....I mean, some guys use CLR and say they don't have a problem with it either. So...
 
I have ran bore tech but never ME how would you compare them.
The ME imo is a better rod. Higher quality in all regards. Materials, bearings etc. They are also very helpful if you damage the ferrule. I discovered that they are replaceable by the owner and they sent me new ones at no charge when I had damaged one.
 
I have a bottle, opened it, smelled it, used it a few times, and put it on the shelf. They (ME) that it has ammonia AND they say it won't harm your barrel (ammonia etching it is the concern, right).

They may well be right and I'm just a Nervous Nellie but Bore Tech works very well for me so my thought is way explore further.

I also have used Butch's and it too is on the shelf. I did not leave them in for longer than 15 minutes and I saw no problem but again...BT works and is easy on my nose in a closed environment.

I have a barrel coming off soon....I think I will experiment with these products again on that.

I'm no expert so take it for what its worth....I mean, some guys use CLR and say they don't have a problem with it either. So...
lol… you were talking about ME rods….yeah, I rode the small bus to school. Haha
 
Next question: bronze or nylon brushes
Don’t use a brush very often, according to @Frank Green, owner of Bartlein Barrels. Here’s some of his tips:


I believe he suggests nylon brushes, if you must. Never use a drill!

I had gave up researching bore cleaning after finding Frank’s tips. There is so much circus-like 🤡 fear and loathing manufacturer claims out there surrounding bore cleaning…finally gave up and trusted a damn barrel manufacturer and found inner peace ☮️ lol.

I don’t know exactly what Frank’s cleaning schedule is, or if he even has one. Maybe he can fill us in on this thread. Seems like he listens to the gun; how it shoots, how it feels when patching it.

Following Frank, I clean after every shoot…in my case just using his recommended “slow version” (Hoppes #9 and leaving it in the bore overnight). Doing so after (most) every shoot makes cleaning much faster and easier than my previous process of waiting until accuracy issues start.

I’m sorta of the mind of at least 40x’ing the bore every 300rds? And, using a cheapish Teslong bore scope only to check for a carbon ring (and not to obsess over bore condition), if I see a ring I follow Frank’s JB Bore Paste cleaning suggestion.

FYI Frank suggests using a Parker Hale type jag with patches, apparently regardless of cleaner he uses. I can’t find such a jag for my small calibers (204 & 17cals). So, I use a small-for-caliber or beat-down brush (wrapped in a custom-cut patch, just like Frank does on his PH jag) for when I apply 40x or JB Bore paste (blue text container, NOT red).

With Hoppe’s I just am lazy and use spear jags.

Some advice to keep you sane:
  1. use a spreadsheet program that adds for you in order to keep track of round counts and cleaning schedule. I forget everything otherwise.
  2. If you have a lot of calibers, write down in your phone what patch size works with what jag and what rod for what gun. This is my biggest tip and solving this is what allowed me to NOT hate cleaning the effing bore with every fiber of my being haha!
When I only cleaned occasionally, nothing like fumbling around for 20min each session trying different patches and getting some stuck in the bore. Each time!!! 🤬

More of my random cleaning and lube tips.

Attached is Frank’s pdf that he sends out about cleaning.
 

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  • Frank Green-Cleaning Break-in guidelines.pdf
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I shoot it.... I clean it!

Couple of reasons.... first one is you let the barrel get away from you and not clean it until there is a accuracy problem or a pressure issue... your 15 minute cleaning isn't going to get it back! Accuracy might come back and it might only hold accuracy for a dozen rounds. Again you let it get away from you.... your going to work at it and spend time to get the barrel back to what it should be doing.

Chamber... a 308win is very forgiving vs a 300WM or a 300 Norma etc... because your dumping the double amount of powder down that 30cal bore... that 308win can go much longer in between cleanings than the mags will and not give you as much or any trouble.

Same thing applies if your shooting a 243win. Yes it's basically the case capacity of a 308win but by reducing the bore size you have not turned it into a magnum round!

You also have to understand that over the course of the life of the barrel it's going to change! When that 308win barrel is new... you might be able to go 500 rounds in between cleanings (not me) and hold accuracy but when that barrel has 2500 rounds on it and if your paying attention to it.... it might only go 250 rounds in between cleanings. That's because the bore is getting rougher so fouling will go up. Your just going to have to clean it more often. When that barrel hits say 5k rounds it might still be shooting great but will only hold accuracy for 100 rounds and you will need to clean it. You have to pay attention to it!

Type of powder...... some powders foul more than others....hence forth you need to clean it more often.

I use a brush when I feel the need to use a brush. I don't use one all the time... and this goes back to paying attention to the gun... it will tell you what is going on, you just have to learn how to read it.

Don't use a drill! Period!!!!!!!!!!

I judge my guns this way... barrel has to be able to go at least 100 rounds in between cleanings and hold accuracy (if it has to go a little more than that not a big deal) but if the barrel won't go 100 rounds in between cleanings... it's done... I'm pulling it off the gun!

Not sure if I posted it here but just a couple of months ago I got a accuracy test barrel back from a ammo/bullet maker so we could look at it once they considered it done. That 308win accuracy test barrel went 27,160 rounds fired thru it and up till the end it was getting cleaned every 150 rounds fired in a 24 hour period and cleaned after the 150 rounds and was holding .5moa or better.

Here is a link that I posted on accurate shooter....read my very first post....


Will every 308win bbl do this? No... the last three bbls they had went 19k, 22k and this one 27k. They're average barrel from us goes about 14k. These three I will say are freaks of nature.

And that 27k round barrel a brush was used in cleaning.... (NO DRILLS where ever used... LOL!) and I don't think that barrel got hit once with JB or any abrasive type cleaner.

Later, Frank