Swapping barrels with scope on

0

03machstock

Sergeant of the Hide
Full Member
Minuteman
Oct 16, 2021
214
132
Pennsylvania
#1
I got a new shouldered prefit for my origin action. Iwant to take it out of the stock, put it in my barrel vice down far enough to clear the scope, say 1 foot roughly, take one off, put the new on on and torque to 70 ftlbs or so. Is this what other people are doing? Reason I ask is a had a vice manufacturer when I was looking at vises tell me I had to take the scope off and put the vise right next to the barrel because it would be too much torque on the barrel in the previous way I described. I wouldn’t have thought twice if they didn’t say anything, it’s not like it’s 250 ftlbs.

Edit: ill be swapping back and forth between 2 calibers regularly, not just a one time swap.
 
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#3
What he said ^^^^^
You want the vice on the flattest part of the barrel to achieve max grip. Also depending on how long your action wrench is you could end up hitting the scope with your wrench.
 
#4
Rob01 said:
I take my scope off when changing barrels. It will have to be rezeroed anyways as I am putting on a different barrel and caliber so loosening 2-4 screws to take the scope off isn't too much of a problem. If you don't want to then try it without taking it off and see how it works for you.
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What he said-

No reason NOT to take the scope off. Several valid reasons for taking the scope off.
 
#5
Not a big deal in terms of the barrel if that's how you want to do it. Older AIs without the quick lock feature that have the actions bonded to the stocks required you to clamp the barrel vise out past the front of the stock, which is usually well past the end of the scope. I never had a single issue clamping the barrel out that far, and I never heard of any other AI users having issues doing so.

Same would apply to an R700, provided the action has an integral recoil lug there's really nothing stopping you from leaving the stock and scope attached to the action, clamping the barrel in front of the stock, and loosening it with an internal action wrench. However the eyepiece of the scope might interfere with your breaker bar on the action wrench, so it's not a bad idea to remove the scope for that reason.

I just find it a bit cumbersome to have to work around the stock and optic while getting the barrel clamped in the vise and while using the action wrench, so I remove them.
 
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#6
Just little OCD me...but I'd take the trigger out too. Too easy to damage stuff.

And I guess part of the equation is how much the scope and trigger cost, right?
 
#7
Baron23 said:
Just little OCD me...but I'd take the trigger out too. Too easy to damage stuff.

And I guess part of the equation is how much the scope and trigger cost, right?
Click to expand...

That's a little too much OCD. LOL No need to take a trigger out. It's not in the way of anything. You actually take your triggers out when changing barrels?
 
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#8
I pop mine off. Super easy to zero which you have to check anyways once your new barrel is on.

A few CF barrels and have to for them.

I do not take the trigger off.
Near zero chance of damage using a vice and action wrench, unless you are a total klutz.
More risk removing and installing one with every barrel swap IMO.

I dont change barrels because they are shot out. I change them for what shooting I am going to do. (Or what ammo I have loaded up!)
 
#9
Rob01 said:
That's a little too much OCD. LOL No need to take a trigger out. It's not in the way of anything. You actually take your triggers out when changing barrels?
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Breaking shit is my super power. lol But yes, you are right. I don't do much of this stuff and should have kept my mouth (keyboard) shut. Cheers
 
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#11
You don’t have to take off the scope. Place the barrel in the vice as you described and support the action with one hand while you break or make the barrel/action joint.
 
#14
kthomas said:
In the majority of cases, a scope shouldn't be in the way either...
Click to expand...

No most cases you can leave the scope on too if you wanted. I don't not because of fear of damage but just so it's easier to get the vise where I want it on the barrel. And as mentioned it will need to be rezeroed anyways so there is no downside.
 
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#15
Rob01 said:
No most cases you can leave the scope on too if you wanted. I don't not because of fear of damage but just so it's easier to get the vise where I want it on the barrel. And as mentioned it will need to be rezeroed anyways so there is no downside.
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Same here, it's just easier to get the vise where I want it without the scope on. Pull scope/mount from action, pull action from chassis, remove barrel and then reverse. Easy peasy.
 
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#17
Are people really having that much issues with removing a barrel with the scope on?

I have no problems at all clamping a barrel in the vice past the scope, it's never crossed my mind whether I have "needed" to remove the scope to remove a barrel.
 
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#18
kthomas said:
Are people really having that much issues with removing a barrel with the scope on?

I have no problems at all clamping a barrel in the vice past the scope, it's never crossed my mind whether I have "needed" to remove the scope to remove a barrel.
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Not even going to go there. The clamping force goes down on a tapered barrel and I do not want it to spin. Also the scope is an awkward spinning mass that could make it harder to handle. At the cost of a ZCO, not going to risk it. Also taking a scope off and putting it back on are like 2 min each way, in the big scheme of things it just does not make sense to leave it on.
 
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#19
I have dome it both ways.

I will say this though. Leaving it bolted to a stock or chassis while torquing the barrel (to 70-150 ftlb range) is asking a lot of that stock or chassis and action screws. The more thinner barrel sticking out of your vice. The easier it is to bend that barrel.
 
#20
Ok so from what I gather is I can do it either way. I was thinking that my scope would be closer if I left it on and possibly record the poi shift between barrels and have it somewhat repeatable. As long as it will hit an 8.5x11 sheet of paper at 100 after removing the scope and putting it back on with a different barrel I’d be happy. If I have time I’ll remove it, if I’m in a pinch for time I’ll leave it on. My barrels are heavy Palma contours so there’s still some meat on them a foot from the shank.
 
#24
You should be fine with those rings too. I would take off my scope with Seekins rings and it was well within a piece of paper when reinstalled. Usually a few tenths off.
 
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#25
oldrifleman said:
Not even going to go there. The clamping force goes down on a tapered barrel and I do not want it to spin. Also the scope is an awkward spinning mass that could make it harder to handle. At the cost of a ZCO, not going to risk it. Also taking a scope off and putting it back on are like 2 min each way, in the big scheme of things it just does not make sense to leave it on.
Click to expand...

I've never had an issue with clamping force and taper. Maybe others do 🤷‍♂️

I can see the argument for the scope mass making it a bit awkward. I always ensure I have one hand on the action at all times when removing the action from the barrel. A drop from a couple of feet shouldn't effect your scope - but there are ways to mitigate that risk as well.

I can see why people remove the scope, but I wouldn't call it a necessary step.
 
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#26
kthomas said:
I've never had an issue with clamping force and taper. Maybe others do 🤷‍♂️

I can see the argument for the scope mass making it a bit awkward. I always ensure I have one hand on the action at all times when removing the action from the barrel. A drop from a couple of feet shouldn't effect your scope - but there are ways to mitigate that risk as well.

I can see why people remove the scope, but I wouldn't call it a necessary step.
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If someone is just changing a shot out barrel then I can see pulling the scope although I wouldn’t do it. For a switch barrel like @03machstock is asking about, it isn’t only unnecessary but counterproductive.

OP do not remove your scope if you are wanting repeatability between barrels and you plan on switching even somewhat often.
 
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#27
wade2big said:
If someone is just changing a shot out barrel then I can see pulling the scope although I wouldn’t do it. For a switch barrel like @03machstock is asking about, it isn’t only unnecessary but counterproductive.

OP do not remove your scope if you are wanting repeatability between barrels and you plan on switching even somewhat often.
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Yes I’ll be doing it back and forth between 2 calibers, I should have mentioned that, my original post sounds like I’m only swapping it once, thanks.
 
#28
I go back and forth between multiple calibers(.223, 6 ARC, .308, 6 and 6.5 Creed) and there is nothing counterproductive to taking the scope off. It's not necessary as you can see some do it and some don't. It will just come down to how you want to do it. Try it both ways and see what works for you.
 
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#30
Rob01 said:
I go back and forth between multiple calibers(.223, 6 ARC, .308, 6 and 6.5 Creed) and there is nothing counterproductive to taking the scope off. It's not necessary as you can see some do it and some don't. It will just come down to how you want to do it. Try it both ways and see what works for you.
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I do the same. I make note of the offsets going from one barrel to another and I'm usually within a tenth. Taking the optic off isn't necessary but I just find it less awkward to manipulate the receiver and barrel with nothing else bolted on (plus on my 700s the side entry action wrench I use is at odds with the windage turret on some setups). For the sake of loosening 4 bolts on my optic mounts, it's really not a big deal. Since you run rings, just leave em on the scope and detach em from the receiver. Re-installing everything in the same slots and torquing to the same spec and you'll be damn close. Do what works for you, there's not really a wrong answer.
 
#31
I've done both with and without scope, using the SAC Modular Vise. I found it to be a pain to get good clamping on the taper, I spent more time getting that right than I would've removing and reinstalling my scope (ARC MBrace one-piece mount), and the scope had to be rezeroed anyway.

Going forward I'll always yank the scope, it ends up being faster and easier. My BA has to come out of the chassis, I run an Archimedes and you have to remove the ejector to insert the action wrench properly.
 
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