Should I re-tool my suppressor mount system? If so, what should I go with?

BuildingConceptsllc · Aug 23, 2024

I now have a decent amount of cans and almost all are on the YHM phantom mount set up. They lock up well and if you know how to adjust the bottom spring loaded part on the brake they all lock up fully with zero movement, so not an issue there as some have had complaints about....

That said, at this point, I won't be swapping them around much. The plan is to not swap at all, so I'm trying to decide if I want to:

1 . Direct thread all or most(only concern here is carbon build up and getting them off for cleaning, my crown , ect)

2. Switch to a new mount and brake set up. (Pretty much gonna cost me $1.5-2k

3. Direct thread most AND switch mounts on some others where it makes sense.

4. Just get a few more phantom hub mounts and call it a day.

It looks like the Q stuff or Reardon with cherry bomb brake is ideal as I always shoot suppressed. I'm not concerned about having a good brake other than what it could do for me when the suppressor is on it.(ie take the abuse, help suppressor, ect)

Thanks

BamaSE · Aug 23, 2024

Well, I guess I’ll go first. And take this for what this is from a hunter and occasional fun range day shooter. Several of my firearms have their own suppressor (with a Plan B). And have a Cherry Bomb mount. It makes it easy to remove and reset for rifle cleaning, return to zero is always consistent, and sometimes I like to swap suppressors around on different rifles just cause. And the CB/Plan B makes this easy too. I have not had any lock up issues with the CB in a suppressor. Actually the opposite problem of trying to get one off a host rifle after slathering the threads with Rocksett while mounting. Cannot speak for the Reardon although they seem to get good reviews.

BuildingConceptsllc · Aug 23, 2024

BamaSE said:
Well, I guess I’ll go first. And take this for what this is from a hunter and occasional fun range day shooter. Several of my firearms have their own suppressor (with a Plan B). And have a Cherry Bomb mount. It makes it easy to remove and reset for rifle cleaning, return to zero is always consistent, and sometimes I like to swap suppressors around on different rifles just cause. And the CB/Plan B makes this easy too. I have not had any lock up issues with the CB in a suppressor. Actually the opposite problem of trying to get one off a host rifle after slathering the threads with Rocksett while mounting. Cannot speak for the Reardon although they seem to get good reviews.

Thank you for the reply. With the yhm, : it's heavy, and on some, in order toget it locked in perfectly, you have to adjust spring loaded collar, which gets it locked up tight, but also can make it difficult to remove and just kind of a pain to do. That's probably my main issues with the yhm and I hate to further invest into it if there is better and no downside to getting the better system, which is also lighter

hlee · Aug 23, 2024

There’s about a 3 oz diff in weight and about an inch difference in length between the YHM phantom and the Rearden/cherry bomb systems. I made the switch for most of my guns, but I have 2 that still wear the phantom brakes. The only real down side to the Rearden/Q stuff is the cost of entry. $1500 on mounts and adapters is a pretty big pull to swallow.

BTW, how do you adjust the phantom collars for lock up? That would eliminate my biggest complaint with their system. Thanks.

SloppyJ · Aug 23, 2024

Direct thread.... like a real man. If you can't hit it with your purse to get it off, use a strap wrench.

BuildingConceptsllc · Aug 24, 2024

hlee said:
There’s about a 3 oz diff in weight and about an inch difference in length between the YHM phantom and the Rearden/cherry bomb systems. I made the switch for most of my guns, but I have 2 that still wear the phantom brakes. The only real down side to the Rearden/Q stuff is the cost of entry. $1500 on mounts and adapters is a pretty big pull to swallow.

View attachment 8486517
View attachment 8486518
View attachment 8486519

BTW, how do you adjust the phantom collars for lock up? That would eliminate my biggest complaint with their system. Thanks.

You turn the can pretty hard and when the teeth get point to point you can use a flat head or tip of knife ect and stick it in the joint there and move the collar just enough that it will go to the next tooth, making it lock up really tight for the ones you need it to. So you are adjusting that collar on the brake more so than the mount

ruger35 · Aug 24, 2024

I’ve had good luck with the Area 419 system. I use the Sidewinder adapters as the majority of my bolt guns are threaded in 3/4x24.

BuildingConceptsllc · Aug 24, 2024

SloppyJ said:
Direct thread.... like a real man. If you can't hit it with your purse to get it off, use a strap wrench.

Don't have a strap wrench in my purse so, I don't want it to be too much of a pain to take off, and I also kind of worry about carbon getting on the crown?

BuildingConceptsllc · Aug 24, 2024

hlee said:
There’s about a 3 oz diff in weight and about an inch difference in length between the YHM phantom and the Rearden/cherry bomb systems. I made the switch for most of my guns, but I have 2 that still wear the phantom brakes. The only real down side to the Rearden/Q stuff is the cost of entry. $1500 on mounts and adapters is a pretty big pull to swallow.

View attachment 8486517
View attachment 8486518
View attachment 8486519

BTW, how do you adjust the phantom collars for lock up? That would eliminate my biggest complaint with their system. Thanks.

That's good info. 3oz isn't a ton but it's not nothing hanging off there either. Not sure it's enough on its own to warrant a change either

mi650 · Aug 24, 2024

I have 2 7.62 Phantoms, SS and Ti. All but 1 of my rifles that have a threaded barrel have a YHM f/h. (The 1 exception is a Henry 45-70 that has a thread-on Hybrid 46.) I've never seen a reason to use anything other than YHM mounts. They lock up tight, price isn't bad, and I have no complaints about accuracy. I have at least 1/2 a dozen extra.

TheOE800 · Aug 24, 2024

Usually solved through a combination. Autos get X bolts get Y some special cases get direct thread.

I’m going through this myself and have a good bit of Area 419 ecosystem for sale (with HUB suppressor adapter) as I rejigger what I’m doing. I think for most uses the A419 Hellfire or Sidewinder systems are hard to pass up.

BuildingConceptsllc · Aug 24, 2024

Well I ended up ordering 3 of the Cyclone Mini brakes(titanium) (SD Tactical Arms) and 3 of the taper mounts (also Ti). I may regret the titanium but I figure with both brake and mount being Ti then maybe it will work out. This is just for 3 bolt guns and then I'm going to just stick with the yhm on the AR's for now. There's more of the AR's and with these new mounts I will have some extra yhm set ups to put wherever I want

longtines · Aug 24, 2024

Direct thread if you are going to dedicate it. I don’t understand all the switching around and multple hook ups.

MrMcCrackin · Aug 24, 2024

I am in the same situation, trying to figure out what mounting system to use.
I am looking Direct thread, Dead Air, Area 419 and ECCO.

Nouseforaname01 · Aug 24, 2024

The Area 419 suppressor mounts are good to go and I have not had any issues with them coming loose. I was already invested in the Hellfire muzzle brakes so it made sense for me to with the Area 419 suppressor mounts.

4O6shootist · Aug 28, 2024

A419. Rokset(tiny bit, like 2 drops) and the supressor adapter. Blue loctite with hellfire adapter. Left hand thread makes the supressor never back off. I've been very happy. Have 3 cans in jail, all will be getting a419 system.

Kadams1563 · Aug 28, 2024

Dead air keymo for semi autos. Direct thread or reardon for everything else.

I have the A419 system as well but don’t use it anymore as my suppressors do double duty. I didn’t want A419 brakes on my AR’s.

hlee · Aug 28, 2024

BuildingConceptsllc said:
You turn the can pretty hard and when the teeth get point to point you can use a flat head or tip of knife ect and stick it in the joint there and move the collar just enough that it will go to the next tooth, making it lock up really tight for the ones you need it to. So you are adjusting that collar on the brake more so than the mount

Ok, cool. This is what I do, and I have a set of flat-jaw pliers that make it pretty easy. And, I found that a light coat of motor oil on the taper of the mount can get you that last little bit of turn necessary to lock up on the next tooth. But, I have one combination that- no matter the effort- will back off just a bit but the collar just won’t click over to the next tooth. This, and having a pile of unused cherry bomb brakes (another story), lead me to Rearden…

Waco Kid · Aug 28, 2024

I’m late to the party but I like the DA Xeno mounts. Taper and left hand threads. Works good from my use. Torque the mount to can and muzzle device to barrel, then a good firm hand tight when screwing the can to the host. I haven’t done any crazy mag dumps to test for hard use however, but hasn’t walked with rapid carbine shots or 10 round strings at a PRS match though.

Bluedog82 · Aug 28, 2024

Plan A is good to go. My Recce 5K stayed snug after a 450rd Qual day with no issues.

BuildingConceptsllc · Aug 28, 2024

Bluedog82 said:
Plan A is good to go. My Recce 5K stayed snug after a 450rd Qual day with no issues.

But could you get it off then fairly easily?

kthomas · Aug 28, 2024

In your situation I would probably just DT what I could, and swap over to a mounting system of your choice where it makes sense to do so.

I personally like the Rearden stuff. The Plan B pattern is very simple and elegant, and the taper does work to keep carbon out of the mounting threads. There's no secondary retention, which would be a consideration for some applications.

Lots of different options, all with their pros and cons.

BuildingConceptsllc · Aug 28, 2024

kthomas said:
In your situation I would probably just DT what I could, and swap over to a mounting system of your choice where it makes sense to do so.

I personally like the Rearden stuff. The Plan B pattern is very simple and elegant, and the taper does work to keep carbon out of the mounting threads. There's no secondary retention, which would be a consideration for some applications.

Lots of different options, all with their pros and cons.

Yeah, I'd like to direct thread but I always kind of wonder if it's going to cause me issues with carbon building up on the crown and/or if it will get locked on the barrel with carbon???? I've never direct threaded one before but that would be ideal on the bolt guns

kthomas · Aug 28, 2024

BuildingConceptsllc said:
Yeah, I'd like to direct thread but I always kind of wonder if it's going to cause me issues with carbon building up on the crown and/or if it will get locked on the barrel with carbon???? I've never direct threaded one before but that would be ideal on the bolt guns

With some proper maintenance this shouldn't be an issue. Even Rearden mounts need to be cleaned periodically, so it really doesn't matter if you go DT or another mounting system, none will be completely maintenance free.

Clean the threads every 300 rounds or so and you shouldn't experience any issues with DT.

BuildingConceptsllc · Aug 28, 2024

kthomas said:
With some proper maintenance this shouldn't be an issue. Even Rearden mounts need to be cleaned periodically, so it really doesn't matter if you go DT or another mounting system, none will be completely maintenance free.

Clean the threads every 300 rounds or so and you shouldn't experience any issues with DT.

Yeah that's probably what I should do at least on some.

FuhQ · Aug 28, 2024

BuildingConceptsllc said:
I now have a decent amount of cans and almost all are on the YHM phantom mount set up. They lock up well and if you know how to adjust the bottom spring loaded part on the brake they all lock up fully with zero movement, so not an issue there as some have had complaints about....

That said, at this point, I won't be swapping them around much. The plan is to not swap at all, so I'm trying to decide if I want to:

1 . Direct thread all or most(only concern here is carbon build up and getting them off for cleaning, my crown , ect)

2. Switch to a new mount and brake set up. (Pretty much gonna cost me $1.5-2k

3. Direct thread most AND switch mounts on some others where it makes sense.

4. Just get a few more phantom hub mounts and call it a day.

It looks like the Q stuff or Reardon with cherry bomb brake is ideal as I always shoot suppressed. I'm not concerned about having a good brake other than what it could do for me when the suppressor is on it.(ie take the abuse, help suppressor, ect)

Thanks

If I was to redo all mine (which I'm not far from probably doing, because KeyMo is heavy as fuck, and the brakes are long, and I prefer just to have a tapered LH thread with no brake on the end system... I'd probably go with the titanium Area 419 Hellfire system. But to retool for mine would cost me a good $3K+... Might just start with the bolt actions, and a couple cans, then just order a few mounts and adapters at at time...

BuildingConceptsllc · Aug 28, 2024

FuhQ said:
If I was to redo all mine (which I'm not far from probably doing, because KeyMo is heavy as fuck, and the brakes are long, and I prefer just to have a tapered LH thread with no brake on the end system... I'd probably go with the titanium Area 419 Hellfire system. But to retool for mine would cost me a good $3K+... Might just start with the bolt actions, and a couple cans, then just order a few mounts and adapters at at time...

Yeah I'm trying out these Titanium brakes and Titanium taper mounts from SD Tactical Arms and see how that goes. They look good but if not, they will work with any other B mount set up and I will likely move to Rearden and cherry bombs

kthomas · Aug 28, 2024

BuildingConceptsllc said:
Yeah I'm trying out these Titanium brakes and Titanium taper mounts from SD Tactical Arms and see how that goes. They look good but if not, they will work with any other B mount set up and I will likely move to Rearden and cherry bombs

One word of caution in regards to the Cherry bombs: they don't have any external wrench flats, so if they get stuck in the suppressor you are hooped.

All the Rearden stuff has external wrench flats.

BuildingConceptsllc · Aug 28, 2024

kthomas said:
One word of caution in regards to the Cherry bombs: they don't have any external wrench flats, so if they get stuck in the suppressor you are hooped.

All the Rearden stuff has external wrench flats.

Hmmm. I didn't realize that. Yeah that's gonna be a deal breaker there. Gonna have to have a flat on it or socket end or something.

I just like the cherry bomb because it seems like it would work the best for only being used with a Suppressor. I don't care about it being a brake, for me it's a sacrificial initial blast containment qd mount only. Thanks for the heads up there

hlee · Aug 28, 2024

Here’s another data point. I had a rifle at the range today; Q cherry bomb brake and Rearden Atlas mount. I had hand tightened the can onto the brake before shooting. Towards the end of the session, the suppressor was toasty, not glowing or smoking but definitely too hot to touch. Anyway, I wanted to remove it, but it wasn’t budging. Two hands on can (with a Silencer shop silencer removal tool pot holder thingy), stock between legs, red face, the whole works. It was on there. I said “fuck it, I don’t need to know the poi shift” and shot some more before heading home. Once home, and with the can cool, I gave it a go at removing the can again. It came off easily. And, in the pic below you can see how well the taper does at keeping fouling out of the threads. I have read that if you shoot enough, the carbon that builds up in front of the taper will carbon lock the supressor, but I haven’t experienced that.

hlee · Aug 28, 2024

BuildingConceptsllc said:
Hmmm. I didn't realize that. Yeah that's gonna be a deal breaker there. Gonna have to have a flat on it or socket end or something.

I just like the cherry bomb because it seems like it would work the best for only being used with a Suppressor. I don't care about it being a brake, for me it's a sacrificial initial blast containment qd mount only. Thanks for the heads up there

Unless you are using a Q can, the lack of wrench flats is a non issue. In the event that you stick a mount in the adapter, spin the adapter off the can. The cherry bomb has a point for a socket built into the front.

But, if you ARE using a Q can, yeah the lack of wrench flats on the brake is a pita if it gets stuck in the can.

BuildingConceptsllc · Aug 28, 2024

hlee said:
Here’s another data point. I had a rifle at the range today; Q cherry bomb brake and Rearden Atlas mount. I had hand tightened the can onto the brake before shooting. Towards the end of the session, the suppressor was toasty, not glowing or smoking but definitely too hot to touch. Anyway, I wanted to remove it, but it wasn’t budging. Two hands on can (with a Silencer shop silencer removal tool pot holder thingy), stock between legs, red face, the whole works. It was on there. I said “fuck it, I don’t need to know the poi shift” and shot some more before heading home. Once home, and with the can cool, I gave it a go at removing the can again. It came off easily. And, in the pic below you can see how well the taper does at keeping fouling out of the threads. I have read that if you shoot enough, the carbon that builds up in front of the taper will carbon lock the supressor, but I haven’t experienced that.

View attachment 8489787

I'm sure it would as would any interface without cleaning at some point. It does look like it did a great job of keeping the crud off the threads of the brake

TheOE800 · Aug 28, 2024

BuildingConceptsllc said:
Yeah, I'd like to direct thread but I always kind of wonder if it's going to cause me issues with carbon building up on the crown and/or if it will get locked on the barrel with carbon???? I've never direct threaded one before but that would be ideal on the bolt guns

You will always get carbon on the crown. My DT suppressor is my favorite setup actually, though to be fair it lives on that gun. Stays tight with class 3a thread fitment and just some minor carbon buildup on on or two threads closest to the crown after a couple hundred rounds.

BuildingConceptsllc · Aug 28, 2024

TheOE800 said:
You will always get carbon on the crown. My DT suppressor is my favorite setup actually, though to be fair it lives on that gun. Stays tight with class 3a thread fitment and just some minor carbon buildup on on or two threads closest to the crown after a couple hundred rounds.

Do you put blue or red lock tite or antisieze on it?

TheOE800 · Aug 28, 2024

BuildingConceptsllc said:
Do you put blue or red lock tite or antisieze on it?

Just raw dog stainless baby

Maurygold · Aug 28, 2024

419 or direct.

carbonbased · Aug 28, 2024

BuildingConceptsllc said:
Yeah, I'd like to direct thread but I always kind of wonder if it's going to cause me issues with carbon building up on the crown and/or if it will get locked on the barrel with carbon???? I've never direct threaded one before but that would be ideal on the bolt guns

I have all DT, and have two cans in jail. One Surefire and one TBAC Dominus SR.

Never had issues with DT on bolt guns, but nonetheless I heeded the siren song of secondary-retention…on bolt guns, at least, it’ll probably end in stuck cans and expensive tears (in the form of muzzle brakes) lol.

I’ve read to always remove your can after a shoot due to the carbon inside the can attracting water vapor, which may slowly corrode your crown or bore. Seems to be more of an issue in humid areas. No idea if true.

I can’t fit my long suppressed bolt actions in my safe anyway. I have noticed cans being harder than expected to remove after a shoot, and I can only imagine it just gets harder and harder if you leave ‘em on.

The Surefire is going on an AR as I’ve had DT cans start to back off on them. I swear I’ve had DT cans occasionally back off on bolt actions, but can’t remember the last time that happened. I don’t often clean the threads on can nor barrel, so perhaps slightly dirty threads help in this regard? I do lube threads if I think they need it.

Pro-tip: lube only the female threads if you want less mess.

Since I unscrew the can after each shoot, I get to inspect the crown a lot. It’s easy to clean with a q-tip and solvent. Of course, at my rate of removal I see negligible crown carbon build up, just a dusting. I always expect a bunch of carbon on the crown but there’s always barely anything there.

However, I do clean the bore after each shoot, usually so maybe that’s a factor? Although…I didn’t used to do that and I don’t remember any significant carbon crown buildup then.

The muzzle face has more carbon on it. But that doesn’t matter with my “unscrewing schedule” lol. I occasionally clean it mostly off.

I think you’ll have the same amount of carbon buildup on the muzzle face/crown using a brake + suppressor combo. And with a brake in the way (and probably red locktited on), I imagine it’ll be harder to access the crown in in order to clean it anyway.

So why the hell did I buy the TBAC? Surefire, yeah, for the unscrewing-can AR, but TBAC for the bolts?

If I’m honest, first-world problems.

I kinda don’t like the (small) length of time that it takes to unscrew a DT can. I was jealous of vids showing 1-2-3 etc turns and pop! it’s off.
I have way more guns than suppressors, so there have been situations where I’ve played “musical chairs” with my cans.

But like I alluded to earlier, that hot, fast, and crazy secondary-retention chick will probably be awesome to bang for a while…and then the tears start

Bluedog82 · Aug 29, 2024

BuildingConceptsllc said:
But could you get it off then fairly easily?

Once it was cool, yeah. Might’ve had to use two hands and put the rifle between my legs, but no tool needed or anything.

pinkhair · Aug 29, 2024

I've tried a number of different hub mounts and thus far I really like the Griffin Dual-lok. It has the same benefits of plan B (or A) while also having a secondary lock that will not ever come loose. There's also a bunch of different brakes, comps, FH's that work with it which is nice.

BuildingConceptsllc · Aug 29, 2024

pinkhair said:
I've tried a number of different hub mounts and thus far I really like the Griffin Dual-lok. It has the same benefits of plan B (or A) while also having a secondary lock that will not ever come loose. There's also a bunch of different brakes, comps, FH's that work with it which is nice.

Yeah that does look like a good set up. Of course it would be pretty expensive for .e to switch over everything to it but that might be a good option for the ar's if I move on from thr yhm mounts

pinkhair · Aug 29, 2024

Yea definitely wouldn’t be cheap to swap over. Works well with AR’s and bolt guns. I’ve had no appreciable change to POI when removing and reattaching cans with the dual lok

Wall_Element · Aug 31, 2024

Maurygold said:
419 or direct.

that's the same thing.

Your barrel presumably has a 90 degree shoulder on standard thread, you add an adpater which also has a 90 degree shoulder with a left hand therad.

So basically direct thread on top of direct thread with two 90 degree shoulders.

Maurygold · Aug 31, 2024

Wall_Element said:
that's the same thing.

Your barrel presumably has a 90 degree shoulder on standard thread, you add an adpater which also has a 90 degree shoulder with a left hand therad.

So basically direct thread on top of direct thread with two 90 degree shoulders.

Some simple reading would help you understand that’s incorrect. 419 is a taper system.

Hellfire Universal Adapter

www.area419.com

Wall_Element · Aug 31, 2024

Maurygold said:
Some simple reading would help you understand that’s incorrect. 419 is a taper system.

Hellfire Universal Adapter

Hellfire Universal Adapter

www.area419.com

I am aware how these are marketed.

The reality, however, is that they are simply direct thread with 90 degree shoulders for the supressor mounts.

https://www.snipershide.com/shootin...ounts-do-not-actually-use-the-tapers.7097480/

It really is unfortunate how vague and unclear this is. Many have been misled.

TheOE800 · Aug 31, 2024

Only the brake uses the taper, but I don’t think I ever had a can come loose or off center using A419 production of the last two years.

Maurygold · Aug 31, 2024

Wall_Element said:
I am aware how these are marketed.

The reality, however, is that they are simply direct thread with 90 degree shoulders for the supressor mounts.

https://www.snipershide.com/shootin...ounts-do-not-actually-use-the-tapers.7097480/

It really is unfortunate how vague and unclear this is. Many have been misled.

Honestly no one cares about your 419 crusade. And all you did was link me to a thread of people also telling you they don’t care about your annoying fake crusade and they all agree how awesome 419 is.

The 419 system has been outstanding for tons of people and many have personally experienced some convenience over the direct thread (why they spend money to use it)

Wall_Element · Aug 31, 2024

Maurygold said:
Honestly no one cares about your 419 crusade. And all you did was link me to a thread of people also telling you they don’t care about your annoying fake crusade and they all agree how awesome 419 is.

The 419 system has been outstanding for tons of people and many have personally experienced some convenience over the direct thread (why they spend money to use it

Okay.

Maurygold said:
419 is a taper system.

Is it?

Huskydriver · Aug 31, 2024

I don't understand the direct thread group... All it takes is one small mishap and you are rethreading a muzzle not to mention how easy for them to start to come loose.

kthomas · Aug 31, 2024

Huskydriver said:
I don't understand the direct thread group... All it takes is one small mishap and you are rethreading a muzzle not to mention how easy for them to start to come loose.

Another downside is you are really relying on the squareness of two shoulders to keep retention of your suppressor.

Maurygold · Aug 31, 2024

Wall_Element said:
Okay.

Is it?

Yes. It tapers with the muzzle brakes and is easier to change devices than direct thread

I guess you need a second thread of people telling you they don’t care and it’s a great system.

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Should I re-tool my suppressor mount system? If so, what should I go with?

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