Tactical/Target Rifle w/WOOD (Rnd 2)

AMG04

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Minuteman
Jan 26, 2012
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Fort Worth, TX
ROUND 2 - Compact, Lightweight Hunting Rifle

Origin SA, Competition Bolt with TT Diamond.
PVA, 16" Proof CF 308 Win
Hawkins DBM
Pillar & Epoxy bedded

6lb 6oz as pictured

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ROUND 1 - Target / Bench Rifle

After 10-12 years of shooting aluminum chassis and stocks made with some sort of composite, I felt it was time to get back to wood.

Maintaining the form, fit, function of more modern stocks was important, but I wanted to gain the warmth, feel and beauty of wood.

I looked around and didn't see what I wanted, so I decided to make it myself.

The Process:
- Source curly maple blank
- Carve (rough pass) with router
- Contour and smooth (fine pass) with router
- Cut the inletting (action, bottom metal & barrel channel)
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- Sand... there was a lot of sanding!
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- Fit recoil pad with belt sander
- Add picatinney rail for bipod (drill and counter sink t-nuts)
- Drop in pillars (checking action/bm fit, alignment & feeding from magazine)
- Epoxy bed action & bottom metal

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- Apply tung oil finish (2 coats cut 1:1 with mineral spirits for deeper penetration, 4 full coats)
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The Results:

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I have several more blanks on hand, now what to do with them?...

I have wanted a curly maple prone stock pattered off the Robertson Composite original for years. They have a very thin pistol grip and would need a metal rod in the grip, but man would that stock set my AI Coopermatch off. Anshutz rail stopped 3/4 from the end of the stock, WTC cheek piece and a three way buttplate.

Wood stocks have a different recoil for sure. Much more shuttle and subdued compared to aluminum or even synthetic. As well as a warm feel while shooting them.

Only issue is they are so damn nice nobody want to take them out when there is a chance of weather :)
 
Made it out to do some quick pressure testing. I wanted to see what lighter bullets and faster powder could do from the 14.5.

Ten rounds per bullet/powder combo loaded in 0.4gr increments, shot at 100 yards, same POA.

Start and finish loads of AR-Comp represented below.

125 Speer TNT (cheap paper puncher)
44.4gr @ 2621fps
48.0gr @ 2858fps
20240906_101043.jpg


130 Barnes TTSX (deer & hogs)
41.8gr @ 2574fps
45.4gr @ 2746fps
20240906_102013.jpg


I did not observe pressure signs at the highest charges, but don't see any reason to climb higher.
 
I have designs to build a similar stock for my Tikka out of a piece of high grade walnut, when I move into my new house. A proper filled grain oil finish would look the tits I think.

Looks great dude.

How much time did it take you? Anything you wish you'd done differently? What too
 
I plan on logging hours on the one I'm about to start. I'm curious.

I should have went to the shop and Trimmed it down with the bandsaw before carving. That would have save a lot of time, but I didn't want to make a 30 miunte drive. Hind sight, 30 minutes would have saved hours...

My wife likes the blonde natural look so I went with that (after all she is supportive of all the money I spend on my hobbies).

I want to start experimenting with dies on the next one. Really bring out the figure and add depth.
 
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That looks fantastic, I'd be scared to get it scratched up at a match.

How much does the wooden stock weigh compared with that carbon stock?
 
After 10-12 years of shooting aluminum chassis and stocks made with some sort of composite, I felt it was time to get back to wood.

Maintaining the form, fit, function of more modern stocks was important, but I wanted to gain the warmth, feel and beauty of wood.

I looked around and didn't see what I wanted, so I decided to make it myself.

The Process:
- Source curly maple blank
- Carve (rough pass) with router
- Contour and smooth (fine pass) with router
- Cut the inletting (action, bottom metal & barrel channel)
View attachment 8490717

View attachment 8490722
View attachment 8490728
View attachment 8490729
View attachment 8490730
- Sand... there was a lot of sanding!
View attachment 8490732
- Fit recoil pad with belt sander
- Add picatinney rail for bipod (drill and counter sink t-nuts)
- Drop in pillars (checking action/bm fit, alignment & feeding from magazine)
- Epoxy bed action & bottom metal

View attachment 8490736
View attachment 8490737
- Apply tung oil finish (2 coats cut 1:1 with mineral spirits for deeper penetration, 4 full coats)
View attachment 8490740


The Results:

View attachment 8490714

I have several more blanks on hand, now what to do with them?...

This intimidating piece of maple might become home to a Zermatt Rim X, but I need to find an action first.

View attachment 8491016
I take it that’s a duplicator in your pics (but different than ones I’ve seen). Do you use it for some commercial work of yours or was this set up just to do this stock?
 
Right now it's just a hobby. Something to keep my mind right after the kids go to bed and on my off days.

I have several hunting and target rifles I plan to make stocks for, then a few 22s for the kids.

I'm in the process of sourcing more stocks to use as templates. I'd like a bunch of styles on hand to suit the purpose of each rifle.
 
After 10-12 years of shooting aluminum chassis and stocks made with some sort of composite, I felt it was time to get back to wood.

Maintaining the form, fit, function of more modern stocks was important, but I wanted to gain the warmth, feel and beauty of wood.

I looked around and didn't see what I wanted, so I decided to make it myself.

Fucking awesome, man! I love it.
 
I plan on logging hours on the one I'm about to start. I'm curious.

I should have went to the shop and Trimmed it down with the bandsaw before carving. That would have save a lot of time, but I didn't want to make a 30 miunte drive. Hind sight, 30 minutes would have saved hours...

My wife likes the blonde natural look so I went with that (after all she is supportive of all the money I spend on my hobbies).

I want to start experimenting with dies on the next one. Really bring out the figure and add depth.
Aqua Fortis