Suppressors Dumb Q: which TBAC SR muzzle device for the least cleaning patch hangups?

carbonbased

carbonbased

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#1
Not talking about cleaning the brake itself!

Bought a Dominus SR a while back. Still in jail.

Q: Which of their SR brakes catch the least patches within the brake itself when retracting the cleaning rod?

Or, put another way, which brake plays the nicest with cleaning patches/jags? Like when you’re cleaning the bore.

EDIT: Usually, I pop just the patch out of the bore and not the screwed-on thick bit of the spear-point jag, which is the diameter of the rod. As I retract the rod, the patch falls off. With a brake, the patch will probably(?) fall off within the brake.

I know I could probably just push the patch all of the way through the brake, but it’s be nice not to run the rod over the crown.

TBAC offers two different SR muzzle devices, a brake and a “non-timed” brake.

Note: I shoot 100% suppressed. So recoil reduction without a suppressor isn’t a factor for me here.

Regular brake, needs timing with peel washers (otherwise I look dumb at the range without the suppressor attached 🤡)
1726175298573.png

1726174991053.jpeg


Non-timed brake, just spin on
1726174917300.jpeg

1726174962588.jpeg


As someone who has never owned a brake, I have no experience cleaning a rifle with an attached brake. Obviously the brake will be red-locktited on, as per TBAC, so I’m not spinning it off each time I clean.

I imagine it’s easiest to fish stuck patches out of the the regular brake, but then (for looks in my case) it’s the fussiest to install.

I’d rather just get the non-timed brake and just spin it one without the peel washer dance, but it looks like it has the smallest interior volume and smallest port openings…but it has 8 ports vs 4.

Kinda dumb question here, splitting hairs, but hey, but I’m bored and my Dominus is calling lol. Humor me.
 
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#4
kthomas said:
So are you pulling patches back through the barrel and chamber?

I would recommend just pushing the patch through the barrel, and removing the patch once you push it through the barrel and brake.
Click to expand...
(Edited my main post to explain better)

Yeah, I didn’t explain it too well. See my post right below yours. NOT pulling patches back through.

Usually, I pop the patch out of the bore and not the thick (cleaning rod diameter) bit of the jag. As I retract the rod the patch falls off.

I use proshot equipment. Their jags are nice in that they are fairly long. Longer than dewey, for sure.
 
#5
I could just orient the regular brake so the ports are facing up/down. This would allow the patch to perhaps fall off easier and not get hung up inside.

When the suppressor is off, I guess I’d just not have to give a crap about what others think about my “wrongly” oriented brake.
 
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#6
carbonbased said:
I could just orient the regular brake so the ports are facing up/down. This would allow the patch to perhaps fall off easier and not get hung up inside.

When the suppressor is off, I’d just not have give a crap about what others think about my “wrongly” oriented brake.
Click to expand...

I just push mine through past the muzzle brake, gently. However I don't use a jag, I use an undersized bore brush (6mm in a 6.5 Creedmoor for example), and remove the patch by hand.
 
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#10
Clamp your rifle in your pattern makers vise with the muzzle facing the floor. You can also place a pan to help catch drippings and patches and such under that bore. Push that rod, push it real good, all the way in. Yeah, that's it. Remove the patch (if you are using a brush, remove it, too) before pulling out.
 
#11
If you are using the spear jag then you don’t pull it back. It’s designed to push out, remove and unscrew, retract the rod.
If you are using a Parker hale jag then you just need to be sure you don’t let it exit the crown entirely and it should be able to be pulled back.
1726181505177.jpeg

Vs
1726181474133.png


In either case, once you exit the crown I would take the patch off and unscrew the jag before retracting the rod back through the bore.
 
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#12
spife7980 said:
If you are using the spear jag then you don’t pull it back. It’s designed to push out, remove and unscrew, retract the rod.
If you are using a Parker hale jag then you just need to be sure you don’t let it exit the crown entirely and it should be able to be pulled back.
View attachment 8500349
Vs
View attachment 8500348

In either case, once you exit the crown I would take the patch off and unscrew the jag before retracting the rod back through the bore.
Click to expand...
I gotta respectfully disagree here.

I use the same technique that Speedy uses in this vid. I linked to the time, which is 4:45.



I don’t follow his entire cleaning regimen, but I do do his patch drop thing with a spear jag because it’s so fast. I also use a little container like his that straps on the barrel to collect patches. This is the bit I’m talking about with this post, the dropping of the patch after the bore, but still in the brake (he doesn’t use a brake).

Also, just like him, I never unscrew a spear jag. I do ensure the interface between the rod and jag is seamless.

However, if I do something that requires me pushing a brush past the crown (wrapped in a patch or not), then I do unscrew that before retracting the rod.

In other ways, I basically follow Frank Green’s cleaning regimen.

There’s a chance I’m totally off-base and misinterpreting how Speedy and some others use spear tip jags, but I don’t think so?
 
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#13
To elaborate a tiny bit further as to why I think (but do not know) why Speedy doesn’t want to push the body of the spear jag past the crown.

As one pushes the patch down the bore, the jag is slightly suspended by the patch. The rod and jag are basically hovering (if you use a bore guide, at least).

If you push the body of a spear jag out past the crown, either the jag body itself or the rod drops on the crown area as the patch pops out. By “body” I mean the flared bit that screws flush to the rod.

Nice long-ass spear tip jags are one of the reasons why I like Proshot stuff. They’re way longer than Dewey and make this technique easier as they allow the patch to clear the muzzle and drop without the jag body running over the crown.

Never used other manufacturer’s stuff, so maybe there are even longer spear jags out there?

This reasoning is a guess.
 
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#14
carbonbased said:
To elaborate a tiny bit further as to why I think (but do not know) Speedy doesn’t want to push the body of the spear jag past the crown.

As one pushes the patch down the bore, the jag is slightly suspended by the patch. The rod and jag are basically hovering (if you use a bore guide, at least).

If you push the body of a spear jag out past the crown, either the jag body itself or the rod drops on the crown area as the patch pops out. By “body” I mean the flared bit that screws flush to the rod.

This is a guess.
Click to expand...

Probably not an issue if you are really gentle.

Ram it back and forth - yeah, that's got a chance of being a problem.
 
#15
kthomas said:
Probably not an issue if you are really gentle.

Ram it back and forth - yeah, that's got a chance of being a problem.
Click to expand...
Anyway, hopefully the Speedy BR Hall of Fame guy’s spear jag/drop patch technique vid gives context to what I’m asking (whew).

Just thought of something. The crown-to-port distance on either brake probably makes my question moot anyway. Most likely too long to allow the “drop patch” technique described above.
 
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#17
hafejd30 said:
Zero info for you towards the cleaning end of it

I did however buy the non timing brakes for my 338 ultra SR. I will never buy a timed brake for can as long as non timed brakes exist
Click to expand...
Haha! Yeah, this is exactly why I’m asking. I don’t feel like timing the brake! But the holes look so small on the non-timed brake.
 
#20
TheOE800 said:
Shhh I still have SR brakes to sell until my NTB SR get here
Click to expand...
I can’t think of why anyone would buy a timed brake with the TBAC offering of non timed

Unless you shoot unsuppressed

Which would make you uncultured swine and likely can’t afford a 338 SR anyways

…..someone crying as they time their ASR brake for their omega
 
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#21
carbonbased said:
(Edited my main post to explain better)

Yeah, I didn’t explain it too well. See my post right below yours. NOT pulling patches back through.

Usually, I pop the patch out of the bore and not the thick (cleaning rod diameter) bit of the jag. As I retract the rod the patch falls off.

I use proshot equipment. Their jags are nice in that they are fairly long. Longer than dewey, for sure.
Click to expand...
Push it all the way through... Unscrew the jag, remove rod... Reinstall jag, reinstall new patch, repeat. It only takes a couple extra seconds and it ensures you don't knick the crown. This is how I clean mine. I do the same with brushes. Push through, remove, pull rod, reinstall, repeat...

OR...

Push the jag all the way through, and then gently poke it back inside the bore with your finger, then remove the rod, ensuring you don't slam the jag on the edge of the crown.
 
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#22
FuhQ said:
Push it all the way through... Unscrew the jag, remove rod... Reinstall jag, reinstall new patch, repeat. It only takes a couple extra seconds and it ensures you don't knick the crown. This is how I clean mine. I do the same with brushes. Push through, remove, pull rod, reinstall, repeat...
Click to expand...
I do the same if I don’t have bare muzzle. With bare muzzle I grab the jag and push it into the crown. With a muzzle device I remove the jag
 
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#24
hafejd30 said:
I’ll really screw you up now

When I clean my precision rifles I remove the brake and clean the crown/threads

I blue loctite mine on with just a wrench to snug the brake up.
Click to expand...
Heretic! Burn him! BURN 🔥🔥🔥

1726194009908.gif


I knew I should’ve just remained in the Garden of Eden-like world of direct thread. I knew it! 😂😢😭

Not even sure if an SR brake would stay on with blue locktite due to torquing the can on.
 
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#25
carbonbased said:
Heretic! Burn him! BURN 🔥🔥🔥

View attachment 8500456

I knew I should’ve just remained in the Garden of Eden-like world of direct thread. I knew it! 😂😢😭

Not even sure if an SR brake would stay on with blue locktite due to torquing the can on.
Click to expand...
You won’t have an issue on a precision bolt gun. AR may be an issue depending on round count.

That said I ran a D60 through my AR. Dumped it. Blue loctite on my ASR device and even with the carbon lock after it still broke loose before the brake. Lots of smoke so the loctite was definitely feeing it

I use my direct thread Ultra 9 the most. But I wouldn’t hesitate to blue loctite a SR brake. Worst case scenario it doesn’t hold. You red loctite it and brake it loose
 
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#26
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#27
Huskydriver said:
I don't blue locitite shit and have never had a can come off with the brake.... I have left my 338 ultra sr on for like 3 matches of Sniperhide max load of 300prc data and it came off nice and easy
Click to expand...
Well, taking the brake off is a decent solution. My assumption was it should be red locktited on, as per TBAC.

However I’m a fucking-lazy-recently-turned-Frank-Green-clean fuck, want cake/eat it too, hence my love affair with Speedy’s drop patch technique. I don’t even want to remove a brake…heck if I could get away with not removing the can…lol
 
#28
carbonbased said:
Well, taking the brake off is a decent solution. My assumption was it should be red locktited on, as per TBAC.

However I’m a fucking-lazy-recently-turned-Frank-Green-clean fuck, want cake/eat it too, hence my love affair with Speedy’s drop patch technique. I don’t even want to remove a brake…heck if I could get away with not removing the can…lol
Click to expand...
If you push a patch through just be careful when you retract the jag.

Push til the patch falls out the end and carefully pull it back through and you won’t have an issue

If you clean it like a virgin on prom night then…….
 
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#29
hafejd30 said:
Push til the patch falls out the end and carefully pull it back through and you won’t have an issue
Click to expand...
Yeah, that’s what I’ve been doing for quite a while, like Speedy in the vid. Tut tut tut, Mr. Hafe, docking you 2 pts and assigning you hallway monitor duty.

Ok, just giving you shit. Seriously, I do appreciate the help! Maybe I’ve not been clear.

I guess, in the Spirit of Laziness, I might red locktite the NTB brake on (too lazy to time, too lazy to remove) and perform the drop patch technique inside the brake…and at the end of the cleaning sesh I make sure to:
  1. Pick out patches that have fallen inside the brake body (with a tweezers if necessary)
  2. Look through the bore to make sure it’s unobstructed so I don’t kaboom at the range/in the field
I guess I’ll decide whenever my dang Dominus gets approved.
 
#30
carbonbased said:
Yeah, that’s what I’ve been doing for quite a while, like Speedy in the vid. Tut tut tut, Mr. Hafe, docking you 2 pts and assigning you hallway monitor duty.

Ok, just giving you shit. Seriously, I do appreciate the help! Maybe I’ve not been clear.

I guess, in the Spirit of Laziness, I might red locktite the NTB brake on (too lazy to time, too lazy to remove) and perform the drop patch technique inside the brake…and at the end of the cleaning sesh I make sure to:
  1. Pick out patches that have fallen inside the brake body (with a tweezers if necessary)
  2. Look through the bore to make sure it’s unobstructed so I don’t kaboom at the range/in the field
I guess I’ll decide whenever my dang Dominus gets approved.
Click to expand...
You could push it through and pull with tweezers every time and wouldn’t have an issue. Red loctite wouldn’t hurt. I just don’t leave my can on so I use blue. It works for me but if you carbon lock a can it may grab the brake. My 556 ASR carbon locks like crazy. My TBAC hasn’t been and issue
 
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#31
carbonbased said:
To elaborate a tiny bit further as to why I think (but do not know) why Speedy doesn’t want to push the body of the spear jag past the crown.

As one pushes the patch down the bore, the jag is slightly suspended by the patch. The rod and jag are basically hovering (if you use a bore guide, at least).

If you push the body of a spear jag out past the crown, either the jag body itself or the rod drops on the crown area as the patch pops out. By “body” I mean the flared bit that screws flush to the rod.

Nice long-ass spear tip jags are one of the reasons why I like Proshot stuff. They’re way longer than Dewey and make this technique easier as they allow the patch to clear the muzzle and drop without the jag body running over the crown.

Never used other manufacturer’s stuff, so maybe there are even longer spear jags out there?

This reasoning is a guess.
Click to expand...
If you suspend that rifle with the muzzle to the floor, you are not relying on some torn piece of underwear to keep your jag "suspended".
You also really don't even need a bore guide at all but I do use them.
Annnnnnddddddd...all the crap is falling out of the bore and into my drip pan.
 
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#32
hafejd30 said:
You could push it through and pull with tweezers every time and wouldn’t have an issue.
Click to expand...
Currently (with no brake) if I don’t quite get the patch to fall off halfway through the cleaning session, I just load another patch and “send it” (sounds so dramatic 🙄 ).

Patches push the occasional reluctant patch out. I just make sure to quickly inspect the bore after I’m done.

See, I loathe making the (short) trip down the to muzzle. I hate cleaning and I’ll do anything I can to speed up the process.

I sound kinda krazy hahahaMWAHAHAHA!!
 
#33
Aftermath said:
If you suspend that rifle with the muzzle to the floor, you are not relying on some torn piece of underwear to keep your jag "suspended".
You also really don't even need a bore guide at all but I do use them.
Annnnnnddddddd...all the crap is falling out of the bore and into my drip pan.
Click to expand...
While I do have a pattern maker’s vise (not an Emmert, a Wilton and in storage) and I do think your idea has merit, my currently living situation makes your solution impossible.

I am filing that away and I do thank you for it.
 
#34
carbonbased said:
Currently (with no brake) if I don’t quite get the patch to fall off halfway through the cleaning session, I just load another patch and “send it” (sounds so dramatic 🙄 ).

Patches push the occasional reluctant patch out. I just make sure to quickly inspect the bore after I’m done.

See, I loathe making the (short) trip down the to muzzle. I hate cleaning and I’ll do anything I can to speed up the process.

I sound kinda krazy hahahaMWAHAHAHA!!
Click to expand...
Where is the patch falling off? If my patch fell off in the bore my jag wouldn’t pass it. Otherwise if it’s falling off in the brake you could easily retrieve it

You’re putting way more thought into the cleaning process than I ever have. I would just run the patch through until I could grab it or it came out the brake

The retract the jag so it doesn’t contact the crown
 
#35
hafejd30 said:
Where is the patch falling off? If my patch fell off in the bore my jag wouldn’t pass it. Otherwise if it’s falling off in the brake you could easily retrieve it

You’re putting way more thought into the cleaning process than I ever have. I would just run the patch through until I could grab it or it came out the brake

The retract the jag so it doesn’t contact the crown
Click to expand...
With just a bare threaded muzzle, when I retract the spear jag a used patch can occasionally just barely cling to the bore/muzzle face. Can look like a ghost exiting a cave…suspended in midair.

I think I need pics. Hold on.
 
#36
hafejd30 said:
Where is the patch falling off? If my patch fell off in the bore my jag wouldn’t pass it. Otherwise if it’s falling off in the brake you could easily retrieve it

You’re putting way more thought into the cleaning process than I ever have. I would just run the patch through until I could grab it or it came out the brake

The retract the jag so it doesn’t contact the crown
Click to expand...
Ok, remember I realize this is a dumb topic. But maybe some of you learned something from the Speedy vid.

Heck, I thought everyone cleaned like him and that I was some inefficient slob. I often didn’t clean just because I was so slow that it was excruciating.

So here is what I’m talking about at the muzzle end.

204 with 1 3/8 square patch​

A8D631E9-91FC-4BFF-A6B4-086A739E6151.jpeg

I stop here. In fact, that’s as far as this rod goes. It’s up against my bore guide. A happy accident and super efficient as I don’t have to sneak up to the end.


A5B80E6C-E7DC-4C2D-A980-3F1A270279D2.jpeg

Rod has been fully retracted. Often the patch falls on its own. I don’t touch it as I don’t want to waste time, and anyway, there’s no benefit to hand-removing it anyway (unless it’s the last patch of the clean).


0EE4B503-73E4-4447-AC97-0ADEA1C9D40E.jpeg

New patch pushes old patch out.


4D5D58A2-FAB2-4731-A852-A72294D2105F.jpeg

A view of the max the jag can possibly exit on this gun. Crown cannot be damaged.

My other rifles unfortunately need hand-eye co-ordination to stop at the correct spot (as Speedy does in the vid).

As a dirty slob, I thought all you dudes cleaned somewhat like this and thus had solved whatever brake issues you had.

Does this help you guys see where I’m coming from?
 
#37
Aftermath said:
If you suspend that rifle with the muzzle to the floor, you are not relying on some torn piece of underwear to keep your jag "suspended".
You also really don't even need a bore guide at all but I do use them.
Annnnnnddddddd...all the crap is falling out of the bore and into my drip pan.
Click to expand...
Lol guess the underwear patch pile is more common than I thought
 
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#39
Jesus. If anyone’s barrel crown and bore are so pathetic they’re damaged by carefully pulling the jag back through, they need to throw it away and start over.
 
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#42
tna9001 said:
It’s great to see that you guys figured out how to clean a barrel. Now let’s talk about something more interesting, tell me about your personal technique for folding your underwear.
Click to expand...
db2000 said:
Jesus. If anyone’s barrel crown and bore are so pathetic they’re damaged by carefully pulling the jag back through, they need to throw it away and start over.
Click to expand...
Me rn lol

41216181-3C92-4835-AAE0-5616DAA24CD2.gif


Ok ok, this wasn’t a cleaning technique thread, just a “which brake works best with spear patches if I clean so-and-so way?” Nobody apparently cleans the way I do, so I will slink off, buy some chocolates, and…

D042C567-F183-49EA-9ADF-17A4FE8DFA58.gif
 
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