Remington 700 Upgrade Suggestions

Did you torque you action screws to 65 inch-pounds? That will help eliminate one thing most people overlook.

Rule #1, never expect anything from a factory rifle with factory ammo... You'll almost always be disappointed in the outcome. LOL

Also, don't take this as a dick question...But I don't know you, so I have to ask... Are you capable of consistently shooting groups the size you expected from this rifle, with other rifles? I can't tell you how many times I've had people at the range ask me to shoot their new "high-dollar" (factory rifle with a mid-tier scope ) rig to see if the gun or scope or ammo was messed up, and it was simply the monkey pulling the bangswitch being the largest contributing factor to the lack of precision.

To add to what FuhQ is saying, are you consistently shooting well with other rifles? To prove his point (and throw myself under the bus) I've been doing this for some time now. Have some really good groups across the board over the years, especially with my 5R back in the day. Went to do load development for my XM3 clone after having not shot consistently in well over a year (residency issues), was grouping terribly, and this is a $2700 custom that printed one of the best groups i've ever shot out of a 30 cal. Asked the guys here, they know me well enough to know I usually can shoot and their recommendation?? Go back to the basics. I did so and vola, gun is printing 1/2 MOA again.

All that to say it is really and I mean really a depreciable skill.

As for the rebarrel that's more of a personal question. I have 6.5s but have found myself going back to 308 since I'm not consistently loading and can get decent ammo for roughly $1 a round (AAC). As to smiths there are lots, what kind of turn around are you wanting? There are some incredible smiths in Missouri GAP and Crescent customs come to mind. LRI is one of my go to if I need a quick turn around. Chad does incredible work and almost always in a decent time frame IMO.

Have you tried Hornady 140 ELD-M factory ammo? It's a known good ammo for 6.5 cm. I would stick with 6.5 cm because of the better ballistics out to longer distances. If you really want the clone, then by all means change to 308 win.

LRI is an excellent choice to do the work. Southern Precision Rifles is also a top shelf gunsmith.

do you reload?
if not my advice is to stop buying new rifles until you buy a little stuff to reload first. accuracy will be so much easier and cheaper when you reload.
that remington 5r of yours should shoot well inside MOA for 5 shots with handloads and a well chambered bartlein should group 5 bullets into one ragged hole, otherwise something is wrong.
otherwise, heck yeah pull that sucker off and have her trued and rebarreled, she will shoot so much better.

Brand new $540 Rem ADL in 300 WM on sale bought it for the action...decided to shoot it first. Dropped it in alum chassis, and threaded the barrel for a muzzle brake.
Handload 200 gr SMK 3.7" way over COAL, with IMR 7828 last of the can.
Went to the range it shot 1/2" 5 shot groups and a few larger with ammo it didn't like as well.
Total cost $940 for the test and the parts will be used in the next build.
Handloading is where the factory rifle barrel will see accuracy.

On the 308, I buy 8 and 9 twist barrels for LR. The 8 twist is 30" heavy palma Bartlein 5 R long action in a chassis, running 200 SMK at 2900 fps. Everything from 130 from to 250 Atips.
The 9 Twist is a Bartlein 5R Rem Varmint SA it also runs 155 gr match to 230 SMK.
For me it allows the 308 to really compete, for most everything I do.
But it's not a sniper clone or ment to be, it's a tool for personal use.

My first PRS rig was your exact barreled action in a KRG Bravo. It was incredibly accurate with 140 Berger Hybrids. Either you got terribly unlucky, or something else is wrong. I once chased my tail for longer than I would like to admit (different rifle) with my rail screws loosening up because oil was in the action threads.

Bullets, Barrels & Bedding

To add to everything already listed:

I would do a deep dive and disassemble everything and also clean out the barrel/chamber well. Double check for irregular contact points between the stock, bolt, trigger, barrel, bottom metal, action screws and bolt interference, etc... Then clean threads and retorque everything again. Rail, rings, action screws, etc... I'd even remove the muzzle device and test again without it. (Inspect the crown for any damage while you're at it)

Else, LRI (Long Rifles Inc.) is who I would use for the custom/trueing/chambering/bedding route.

chzhd said:

First, thank you for your responses.

@FuhQ, I do have the action screws torques to 65in-lbs and I as part of my range prep I double check everything to make sure nothing has loosened up. Also, it's not a dick question regarding my abilities as a shooter and a very relevant aspect of precision rifle shooting. I feel that I am a descent enough shooter that I should be getting better results if the gun is capable. I can easily shoot sub 1/2MOA with my AI with all 3 of my barrels (6mmCM, 6.5CM and 308win). As a matter of fact, a couple weeks ago I was consistently hitting a 10" gong at 1200yds with my AI and the 6.5CM barrel.

I have not tried Hornady 140ELD-M in this rifle yet. I am planning on trying it before I throw in the towel on this setup. I do have everything to reload except the time. It's a chore for me to just make it to the range on a regular basis let alone take the time to work up a load development routine. I have had suck good success with FGMM ammo in my other rifles that I haven't felt the need to reload. Yes I do realize that even FGMM has its limitations but for now, it's good enough for what I do for now.

As far as disassembling everything and inspecting, I haven't done that since dropping it into the McMillan stock. It's a good suggestion and I think I will do that before I take it out next.

Hoping to get it out to the range this weekend and I will give an update.

Thanks,

T

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I bought the exact same rifle (except in .308) in very late 2019....yes, when Remington had already been raped by the private equity scum.

I bought it as a eastern whitetail rifle...I'm 72, screws in my back, and so I only hunt a few days a year on a buddy's property in GA. Seemed like a reasonable investment at the time.

Had the HS Precision stock aluminum bedding block made square, plumb and true and had it skim bedded. It shoots ok to kill a deer to 200 yards but that's about it. (and yes, I check the action screw torque)

I finally put a bore scope into it and found that over a 1/3 of the leade...well, it wasn't there. Ever.

I did post some pics on the Armory subforum just to find out how they could fuck it up like this. I mean, spin the barrel or spin the reamer...if its offset or cocked it should have carved out the entire leade. Prevailing theory was an undersized (as in worn out, probably) pilot but I still don't really understand how that works to cause this issue.

As I said, eastern whitetail...yeah, I'm not putting another penny into it. Its good enough for that purpose and my expected deer hunting future. The alternative I've been contemplating is this (LOL)



Personally, if I were you....I'd look at that chamber and bore. Just to satisfy yourself as to what's in there. But, in the final analysis, if you want this to be a very accurate rifle (and, as Colonel Whelen said, "only accurate rifles are interesting") then if it were me then I'd def rebarrel it. Seems like you have a Bartlein .30 blank, I'd have that chambered/installed and move on.

But I have a real resentful attitude toward Remington's of that recent vintage so please take that into account. lol