Torque question

9245 · Sep 21, 2024

I was just trying to remove and retorque the screws on my optics rail to ensure they were correct and 3 of the 4 went without a hitch (factory spec called for 15-20 inch pounds, which I verified with them over the phone before I started, I split the difference at 18), but number 4 (technically number 2, counting from the rear) would not budge and stripped the screw head (number 25 Torx), I have no idea what torque they installed that one at but I’m betting it was WAY more than 20 inch pounds). My question is how much does that matter? Am I good to go just ignoring it or will that throw something off? Do I need to send it in to the factory to get fixed or can I just leave it be since it’s obviously not going anywhere and the other 3 are good?

Rifle is a Ruger Precision Rifle in 6.5 Creedmoor. The stripped screw is the second from the back on the factory picatinny rail. The other 3 are now torqued to 18 inch pounds and Vibra Tight VC-3ed with a 10 minute cure prior to reinstalling.

Supersubes · Sep 21, 2024

Just run it.

Edsel · Sep 21, 2024

It would probably function okay.

But I personally would prefer to replace that screw regardless.

mrdrar · Sep 21, 2024

1st in saying that your caliber is a bigger problem than your stripped screw. But, to answer your question, drill it out.

Aftermath · Sep 21, 2024

Edsel said:
It would probably function okay.

But I personally would prefer to replace that screw regardless.

^^This.
My thoughts would be that screw was very likely torqued correctly at the factory but now has some sort of corrosion holding it in place. I would want to stop any sort of corrosion before it really is a problem. Besides, the fix is pretty simple.

Stripped rail screws how to unscrew?

Hello, I have one stripped screws on the Picatinny rail of my rifle. I made some attemps with WD40, soldering iron, various size of torx and Allen bit, but not lucky for me. I would make another attempt with epoxy glue for iron, placing One drop on the head of the screws for gluing the torx...

www.snipershide.com

Terry Cross · Sep 22, 2024

9245 said:
and stripped the screw head (number 25 Torx),

25 Torx !??
I had no clue there any scope bases out there with drive heads that large!

powdahound76 · Sep 22, 2024

mrdrar said:
1st in saying that your caliber is a bigger problem than your stripped screw. But, to answer your question, drill it out.

So, 6.5 manbun is a problem?

Pray tell, how???

OP, personally, I would want it fixed at some point, and would for sure keep shooting until I was ready.

9245 · Sep 22, 2024

Terry Cross said:
25 Torx !??
I had no clue there any scope bases out there with drive heads that large!

It does indeed, unless I’m remembering wrong, and I don't think I am, I would have to pull the scope to confirm though and I don’t intend to if I can avoid it.

9245 · Sep 22, 2024

powdahound76 said:
So, 6.5 manbun is a problem?

Pray tell, how???

OP, personally, I would want it fixed at some point, and would for sure keep shooting until I was ready.

Pretty much my thought. The issue is I don’t have a drill press, or the confidence in my machining ability to do that without damaging something, so I would have to send it in for service and wait, and wait, and wait, and wait some more. To be fair I don’t know what Ruger’s turn around time is but years ago I had a Taurus pistol that I had gotten for pocket carry that came from the factory with a warped barrel and I was quoted, I shit you not, 6 months for the turn around. I just sold the piece of crap instead. No doubt Ruger is far better than Taurus, and that was years ago, but still, even if it’s just a couple of weeks I would rather avoid it if I can. If I can’t though I will just do it and grumble about it.

powdahound76 · Sep 22, 2024

9245 said:
Pretty much my thought. The issue is I don’t have a drill press, or the confidence in my machining ability to do that without damaging something, so I would have to send it in for service and wait, and wait, and wait, and wait some more. To be fair I don’t know what Ruger’s turn around time is but years ago I had a Taurus pistol that I had gotten for pocket carry that came from the factory with a warped barrel and I was quoted, I shit you not, 6 months for the turn around. I just sold the piece of crap instead. No doubt Ruger is far better than Taurus, and that was years ago, but still, even if it’s just a couple of weeks I would rather avoid it if I can. If I can’t though I will just do it and grumble about it.

You may find a machine shop that would do it for a small fee while you are there.
Or a local smith if you call ahead and make an appt.

Not in Denver by chance are you?
I know a prick there who has a drill press……

9245 · Sep 22, 2024

powdahound76 said:
You may find a machine shop that would do it for a small fee while you are there.
Or a local smith if you call ahead and make an appt.

Not in Denver by chance are you?
I know a prick there who has a drill press……

I appreciate the offer, but unfortunately no, I’m not, I am in southeast Michigan about 30 minutes outside Detroit. I hate this area, it’s an over populated hell full of wannabe thugs, Karens, and maybe 1% of the population actually knows how to drive without steering with their feet or butt cheeks. (Seriously, kidding aside when I moved here my car insurance doubled, it’s the highest in the state due to all the bad drivers, and I can confirm, as someone who narrowly avoids getting hit at least twice a week and was hit the day I moved here, and run off of the freeway just 2 weeks ago by someone who nearly side swiped me at 90, and have been followed at least 3 time in the last year and nearly boxed in twice by aggressive road ragers I can confirm that they are terrible). I look forward to the day that I can move far far away from here.

johnnyvw · Sep 22, 2024

I would run it as-is and in the meantime look for someone local who can drill it out properly. At least you know it's torqued enough and won't loosen LOL.
I had a similar issue with a Ruger American, ended up using an thin abrasive blade in a Dremel to cut a slot in the screw head to get it out. Yeah, made a mess of the rail but I was replacing it anyway.
Seems to be a common issue with a lot of production guns...either over- or under-torqued

9245 · Sep 22, 2024

johnnyvw said:
I would run it as-is and in the meantime look for someone local who can drill it out properly. At least you know it's torqued enough and won't loosen LOL.
I had a similar issue with a Ruger American, ended up using an thin abrasive blade in a Dremel to cut a slot in the screw head to get it out. Yeah, made a mess of the rail but I was replacing it anyway.
Seems to be a common issue with a lot of production guns...either over- or under-torqued

Precisely why I was removing and retorquing them myself to begin with, I just assumed that the factory torque was probably wrong, and I was right.

B y r o n · Sep 26, 2024

When you went to break the screws loose, did you crack them all loose before removing or simply remove one and then reinstall or try and remove each one individually? If you did the last you do realize that if the base didn't fit the receiver perfectly, the tension against the problem screw could have been amplified causing your issue.

There is a reason that in other arenas, items with multiple fasteners are torqued in multiple phases to distribute the load.

9245 · Sep 26, 2024

B y r o n said:
When you went to break the screws loose, did you crack them all loose before removing or simply remove one and then reinstall or try and remove each one individually? If you did the last you do realize that if the base didn't fit the receiver perfectly, the tension against the problem screw could have been amplified causing your issue.

There is a reason that in other arenas, items with multiple fasteners are torqued in multiple phases to distribute the load.

I removed them all first.

Holliday · Sep 26, 2024

I personally would not rely on vibra-tite vc-3 on a scope rail, but thats me. I always degrease and use blue #243 loctite on those screws.

Baron23 · Sep 26, 2024

powdahound76 said:
Or a local smith if you call ahead and make an appt.

This...there has to be gunsmiths local to you who could drill the head off and then get the stub out. While I too wouldn't do it myself (fuck, I'm death with just hand tools much less a drill press), I don't think this task would be very challenging for a local smith. Fuck sending it back to Ruger....you might not live that long.

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