Steel Target Range Setup

pete_d_52 · Sep 30, 2024

If you were to build a permanent target range with steel targets at every 100 yard increments going out to 1000 yards, how would you do it.

I am building a target range setup at my ranch, will have steel target setups at 100 yard increments out to 1000+. This will be a permanent setup and will not need to move it anytime soon. I am trying to come up some ideas on installation, hangers, sizes, etc. Right now, I am thinking of welding a pipe rack at each 100 yard increment and having a series of steel gongs hanging down at each, kind of like the attached, hanging from straps.

The 100 yard will also have a stand for paper.

I am new at this, i havent seen what is typical for long-range target ranges.

1. Any other target concepts I should consider? I may add a few popping targets at the closer increments

2. What is a typical size gong(s) / plate(s) you would expect to see at 1000 yard shot - where someone relatively new to ELR but with a little instruction can still hit it, but its still a challenge.

3. At those 800-1000 yards distances, any brand of gong / steel or any certain setup aid in hearing/seeing whether target was hit?

4. what about sizes from ~300 yards to 700 yards?

5. I am thinking of using the rubber straps because easier to install/replace than a chain hanging type system. Ideally would have gongs with a tube welded in the top to put on the pipe crossbar but cant find those. Im also worried about the targets sliding down the post and coming too bunched up together, but not sure how to address that other than building a separate rack

Ruff 364 · Sep 30, 2024

I have that rack with a 1/2/3/4 MOA target at each range plus a .2 mil trueing bar....done.

stello1001 · Sep 30, 2024

I shoot a monthly match that has targets in 100 yard increments out to 1000 yards.

Each 100 yards there are 3 targets. One 1.5MOA, one 1MOA, and one .5MOA. There's a few distances that have an IPSC. I think 600, 800, 900, and 100 if I'm not mistaken.

You can do a KYL additionally anywhere you'd like. Maybe in the 5 to 700 range with 5 or 6 different target sizes going from large to small of course. A full size IPSC at 1000 and a truing bar.

Then, for fun, you could add small coyotes, beavers, or pigs, etc anywhere you'd like as well.

1911hombre · Sep 30, 2024

You will also find that it's a whole lot easier to have one target area and firing lines in 100 yard increments.

Aftermath · Sep 30, 2024

To keep targets from sliding and bunching up...use a pipe in a pipe. The inner pipe is the one you have built onto and stabbed in the ground. The outer pipe...actually pipes...are 6" to 12" sections of pipe in total nearly the same length as the inner one. Weld a tab on each little section to hang your strap with. You can use 1 or 2 sections to hang a target from and then skip several before hanging the next target. Welding the end pieces to the inner pipe will keep them in place. This will allow the targets to swing but not slide and allows you to modify pretty much at will.

sinister · Sep 30, 2024

There are a few different ways.

You can lay out (as mentioned above) a single bank of targets with firing berms at different distances. Your target cost will be less but you'll need to change firing points for training and gathering data.

Another method is to put targets at known, measured distances and shoot from a fixed firing berm. You still have to change firing points (i.e., 25-, 50-, and 75-yard variances) for data collection, or you'll need to move your targets (a pain).

A mix of the two is a split-the-difference solution. Put out targets at known distances, with firing berms or points from 100, 125, 150, and 175 yards from your first target to give you the widest range of solutions. You can walk or ride from the 100-yard firing points and build your data / DOPE book.

Simonsza1 · Sep 30, 2024

Jc steel 15% off. There steel and target hangers have worked good for me

Aftermath · Sep 30, 2024

Aftermath said:
To keep targets from sliding and bunching up...use a pipe in a pipe. The inner pipe is the one you have built onto and stabbed in the ground. The outer pipe...actually pipes...are 6" to 12" sections of pipe in total nearly the same length as the inner one. Weld a tab on each little section to hang your strap with. You can use 1 or 2 sections to hang a target from and then skip several before hanging the next target. Welding the end pieces to the inner pipe will keep them in place. This will allow the targets to swing but not slide and allows you to modify pretty much at will.

Just a sorta crappy sketch. I don't want to spend the time trying to figure it out on SketchUp, sorry.

cwinner · Oct 1, 2024

I've had a similar setup for over 10 years and gravitated through all the hanging target options and various holding methodologies. What I've learned is that eventually everything down range will catch a bullet and every strap will eventually weather and break.

I'm basically down to using only the JC Steel target hangers on T-posts at every location. Put multiple posts where you want plus it allows for ultimate flexibility from one firing point as you can add and remove them at will to mix things up. Keep a small pile of spares and post driver at your range and for the few times they do break and get shot and you will spend more time shooting.

As to sizes, depends on your desire but I generally defer 2MOA as it's easier to see a small group hit on a larger target than it is to see exactly where the bullet went into the dirt just off the edge....... it's more about training new shooters and validating dope.

I do use a lot of 8" & 10" targets as they represent the average vital size for a game animal....... hang 10" targets from 100-1000 and let people find their max effective range where they first round impact a deer sized vital..... brings a real practical view into ones effective hunting range!

Herb Stoner · Oct 1, 2024

My preferred range does NOT have everything in tidy increments of 50 or 100. It’s set up for paper at 50 and 100 but beyond that it’s mostly odd, random placements of steel in various shapes and sizes at varied ranges ( 220, 315, 372, 412, 470, 522, 563, etc., etc.) out to 840. First impression is that it was set up by a bunch of drunks but it breaks the mold and makes ranging and shooting more interesting.

FOS373 · Oct 2, 2024

Mine was thankfully setup when we bought the property (probably setup in the late 90’s). 300, 400, 450 and 525. Longer would be nicer, but it works.

12” square targets. I’ve had to fix one and used a small garden auger on a drill and sunk some pipe to drop T posts in. But, I’m also hiking up that hill.

I second the recommendation for a bucket of spares; chains/straps, nuts & bolts, spray paint, etc.

eastexsteve · Nov 18, 2024

pete_d_52 said:
If you were to build a permanent target range with steel targets at every 100 yard increments going out to 1000 yards, how would you do it.

I ended up using T-posts and T-post hangars. Each target is 4MOA in size, with an extra half-size IPSC silhouette at 100 yards for the deer hunters. I also have a full size and half-size IPSC silhouette at 880 (half mile.) I also have a one MOA target at almost 800 yds. We've been shooting this range for two years now, and I have yet to replace a T-post. They get hit, but they still hold up the steel targets. My biggest steel round is the 24" at 600 yds, and it's pretty heavy. The steel rounds at 100, 200, and 300 are 3/8" AR500. Everything beyond that is 1/4 AR500".

Since most of the rounds and rectangle targets I have are 4MOA targets, they tend to look all the same size and distance. So, I keep my targets painted white and different florescent colors so you can associate a color with a distance. You will have to first paint all the targets white, and then paint over them with a florescent color if you want. Keep lots of paint on hand.

My shooting station is two heavy sitting benches and a flat prone shooting platform.

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Steel Target Range Setup

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