I need to clean a few TBAC suppressors, and I run the Area419 suppressor mounts inside the cans. CLR seems to be very good with removing carbon, but it is not good for these nitrided steel mounts. Just curious how many of you remove adapter before cleaning, and how much effort should it take? I'll typically heat up things I blue loctite and they come off no problem, but I'm not sure how much carbon I may be fighting, or did the mount mostly protect the threads from this? Not sure. I bought the Primal Rights stand and spout as it looked like a good way to set up for proper cleaning. Advice appreciated.
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Suppressors Suppressor adapter (removal) and cleaning
- Thread starter Conrad
- Start date
Pour some hoppees in there, with the bottom hole plugged up, and let it sit for a few days. I used my ultra sonic cleaner with heat too. Btw- I also tried simple green or something like it in the US cleaner and it melted off the factory cerakote on the bottom half where it was sitting in the stuff so, heads up. The Hoppees should work by itself if you let it sit long enough
Or Kroil... Kroil will break loose damn near anything. A professional mechanic friend recommended it to me about 20 years ago, and I've used it on all kinds of stuff over the years. The first time I used it, it was to soak the cylinders in an old outboard motor that had been sitting out in the weather for 25 years. We removed the spark plugs, filled the cylinders full, waited 24 hours, it soaked through, then did again, and repeated for 3 days (so 3 soaks). And after 72 hours of soaking, we got out the 1/2" breaker bar & broke the cylinders loose from the walls, spun it over a few times, it had FULLY unlocked all the rings, and then it cleaned the walls up as the rings ran up and down the cylinders. We can a compression check, and the damn thing still had full compression in spec. I was in shock. Drained the Kroil, put fresh oil in it, new plugs, cleaned the points and carbs, and it fired right up! I became a believer in Kroil that day.
Thata what I used. Also, if you can get it in a barrel vise, that works really well to hold it. I used mine and some big vise grips I have that have a sort of round middle section (got em at oreillys), and locked em on the mount (this was a yhm that has a little shank to it to grip though and won't really show any marks). It helped me get a ton more torque on it. Also, check these guys out.
SUPPRESSORTOOLS.COM | Pooler | 31322
www.suppressortools.com
Personally, I leave the A419 Hellfire adapter in the suppressor and fuck CLP. I use Bore Tech Carbon Remover. I plug the muzzle end of the suppressor with a silicon plug (get a whole set off of Amazon for little $$), stand it up in a pickle jar (yeah, I use a bit of cardboard in there to keep it vertical), and fill it with with the BT. Leave it sit for a day (prob doesn't need that long).
You can empty the BT solvent into a small jelly jar and let the carbon settle out and then pour off the the solvent and use it again.
I then flush out with a hose...outside...in old cloths (haha...ask me how I know). I have a small electric pressure washer I use instead of hose...use the "turbo" nozzle. Comes clean enough for me.
Did you follow TBAC's recommendation of weighting it new (in my case with the adapter) and when it gets to about 3 oz over its time to clean. Then weigh afterward and you can evaluate the effectiveness of your cleaning.
Just what I do.
Cheers
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Thank you, I appreciate the first hand experience with the 419 mount. I probably should have simply asked for that in my original post. That sucker is in there and while I have no problem using Kroil or Hoppes, leaving it in and trying Boretech is also a good option.
Additionally, to your point I realized I wasn't taking into consideration weight of mount last night, it is 3.3 oz. So with that included I'm about 1.5 oz over new weight. Could keep shooting for a while while I get my game plan for first cleaning. I'm definitely good with trying the BT Carbon first time around and seeing how it goes. Thanks for the replies.
Additionally, to your point I realized I wasn't taking into consideration weight of mount last night, it is 3.3 oz. So with that included I'm about 1.5 oz over new weight. Could keep shooting for a while while I get my game plan for first cleaning. I'm definitely good with trying the BT Carbon first time around and seeing how it goes. Thanks for the replies.
Kroil and Shooter's Choice 50/50 will take it off.
Let it soak and then most will come off with a rag wipe.
If not, soak it for a few more hours
I say don’t worry about it. When my adaptors stuck from going too long without cleaning I just leave it in and let clr help soften it up. Turns a bit pink with many many hours but only temporarily. Certainly not enough to concern me.
I clamp the can in a vice between wood blocks, I put the 419 wrench on the adaptor and I smack the heck out of it with a sledge. Usually works just fine. If the can moves tighten the vice more until it doesn’t. Shock is the best thing for freeing the carbon cling.
I also bend a nail back on itself and holding it with pliers use the nail point to scrape the inside of the can adaptor interface after a soak to break up the carbon cling.
3 letters...
C....L....R....
^^^^
He ain't wrong. I remove my Cherry Bomb and lay it in a glass. Then I pour just enough CLR to cover it.
I go clean the rifle, come back, remove the CB and give it a brushing under running water.
Hit it with chlorine free brake cleaner and reinstall it. Looks like new.
Ok, now soak it for about 30 minutes in CLR to get the last residual off of them. And don't go 5,000 rounds between cleanings...
I clean mine between 300-500 rounds through them.Also, what kind of nasty-ass ammo you shooting through that thing? Damn it's crusty with some massive buildup!
M
Mostly CCI SV, with a bit of Federal Auto match for flavor. It’s a rimfire can, so it’s expected to get pretty filthy… It’s back in the bath as I type this…Ok, now soak it for about 30 minutes in CLR to get the last residual off of them. And don't go 5,000 rounds between cleanings...
Also, what kind of nasty-ass ammo you shooting through that thing? Damn it's crusty with some massive buildup!
I shoot CCI SV exclusively, and mine don't get remotely near that caked up in 500 rounds. I let it go between 750-1,000 once, and it still wasn't anywhere close to that bad. What brand can is that? That baffle design looks like a lead trap...
Just a follow up on this… My son and I took this suppressor (AAC halcyon), a FN 502, pistol and 400 rounds of CCI SV ammo out for some plinking. Looks like we shot 340 rounds through this can before cleaning. I dunked the baffles into CLR for 2 days (b/c) I’m forgetful), and I picked the remnants of build up out of them today. The moral of the story is that some cans, apparently, build up fouling faster than others. And, titanium baffles don’t care about CLR…Ok, now soak it for about 30 minutes in CLR to get the last residual off of them. And don't go 5,000 rounds between cleanings...
Also, what kind of nasty-ass ammo you shooting through that thing? Damn it's crusty with some massive buildup!
Pro-Tip... Before reassembling it, you can always get some aerosol welding nozzle kleen spray, and spray it on the baffles (do this outside, as it's VERY strong). Let the stuff dry on the baffles, reassemble, and then your next go around, the lead and carbon should wipe away, or just pop right off with little to no effort. Works well for me.
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