Question for Dirtbike Riders

#51
Jigstick said:
I’m really back and forth about the clutch vs automatic. I think the automatic will let him focus more on balance, anticipating turns, dips, and hills. Allow him to focus more on the riding because shifting will be much easier. But I also get the point of teaching him how to use the clutch from day one. Unfurtunately their isn’t a manual clutch bike his size at the moment where we are riding for him to try out
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I started out on a SL100, yeah I'm that old. Back when I dreamed of owning an Elsinore (but never got)

Worked my up to the XR600 before I quit riding.

Never owned an auto shift other than my 4wheeler Rubicon

IMHO it would be too easy for him to pin the throttle, it keeps shifting and going maybe faster than he's ready for

Get something with a clutch, he'll figure it out soon enough and it may keep him in a slower gear longer

If he's like (I assume) most the people in this thread, he'll be shifting without a clutch before long anyway, just using it as an Oh Shit lever (index finger always over the top)

Good luck and safety first
 
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#53
91Eunozs said:
Let me guess, you think loud pipes save lives too, right? :rolleyes:

I raced ‘street’ bikes for 15 years (primarily a Yosh stage1 GSXR750 with stage2 cams), and dipped my toes into Moto-X racing, but most of my Off-road riding is trail and aggressive OHV type riding (big jumps, fast trails). Aside from being on two wheels, they are nothing alike…completely different skill sets to do well in competition.

Regardless, he’s asking for suggestions and advice about getting his son up to speed off road. It has nothing to do with the size of your balls or how far you like to push the limits.

If you don’t have anything useful to add, feel free not to post.
Click to expand...

Loud pipes close trails.


If we didn't have differing opinions why would we ever discuss anything?
 
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#55
I'm getting my 12 year old a YZ85LW. Were going to gear it down a little, put the heavy flywheel weight on it, and shim the power valve to have it come on the pipe a bit later. We might do the smart carb and tuning. The Husky 85 was the close second, we have a good local Yamaha dealer. The KYB suspension is better than WP, and the Yamaha is less expensive so all that beat out the husky. Most of the riding here is trails in the trees. We looked at a KLX140 with the 19/16 wheels, it's #60 heavier than the YZ. Looked at the Yamaha TTR. Comparing the two 4 strokes I would go with the Kawasaki. I've thought about finding an 85 roller and put the Yamaha 4 stroke engine in it. I don't need a project.... A buddies kid went from an 85 with the 16/14" wheels to the CRF140. The kid liked the 140 on the track, absolutely hated it on the trails. To the level of frustration that he was crying on the trail, I've never seen that kid cry. Bike was hell to keep from stalling, would overheat among other things. It's not a trail bike at all.
He is on a YZ125X now, which is a touch big for him (5'4" #130, 13y/o). They didn't want to buy the YZ85LW and have him out grow it when he hits the next growth spurt. He shreds the trails on the 125X. It is super easy to ride bike, it will lug around with a lighter rider and can pull out of the bottom end and rev like no big deal. I rode it on some real tight trails with some short steep sections, I just thought it was slightly underpowered for a #200 person, still a fun easy bike to ride.
 
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#56
Jigstick said:
I’m really back and forth about the clutch vs automatic. I think the automatic will let him focus more on balance, anticipating turns, dips, and hills. Allow him to focus more on the riding because shifting will be much easier. But I also get the point of teaching him how to use the clutch from day one. Unfurtunately their isn’t a manual clutch bike his size at the moment where we are riding for him to try out
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Come on man….there was no automatics when we were little!
 
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#57
No, and learning to use the clutch was probably the steepest part of the learning curve. That said, as big a part of riding as it is, it's not like you can't learn it on the next one. It's just that you will have another learning curve instead of being thrown in the deep end...

My father liked the deep end.
 
#58
Sniperwannabee said:
Come on man….there was no automatics when we were little!
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Am I the only one that wasn’t constantly fucking with their clutch? I used it but I feel like I’d usually pick a gear where I could just ride in tight shit, or I used it more than I thought without realizing it.

Ive blown engines but never had to replace a clutch
 
#59
^ That either says something about your skill or the difficulty level of where you ride..... (not at all being a dick... just means you are leaving a lot on the table)

And maybe you were using it without thinking about it--. For example- crossing a downed tree.... clutch and wheelie into the side of the tree... clutch again and when your fork compresses on the tree you drop the clutch and jump your rear tire up onto the tree. Partial clutch again so when your spinning rear tire hooks up on the tree you don't loop out. When you go step by step through what you are actually doing on obstacles you use the clutch way more than you think.

Never blown engines but replaced clutch plates.
 
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#60
IMG_5497.jpeg


Here’s my son sitting on the KLX 110 LR. He’s on his tip toes now but as the suspension breaks in I’m guessing the bike will soften out and he’ll be slightly more flat footed. It seemed to fit him good. Comfortable reaching the brake and clutch levers. Can reach the kick stand.

I had him sit on a 140 and it was way too big. He had a hard time leaning with one leg down.

And something else popped up. Almost like winning the lottery. I found a guy an hour away from me that’s selling a 2023 KLX100RL with 10hrs on it….as well as a 2023 KLX300R with 10hrs. Both with the balance of the Kawasaki 3yr warranty. Guy bought them for him and his son, and the son lost interest. Said he’d make me a package deal if I bought both. Pics of them they look brand new. Should I consider them? Probably save me $4500 compared to buying new 2024 models
 
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#61
Jigstick said:
View attachment 8520346

Here’s my son sitting on the KLX 110 LR. He’s on his tip toes now but as the suspension breaks in I’m guessing the bike will soften out and he’ll be slightly more flat footed. It seemed to fit him good. Comfortable reaching the brake and clutch levers. Can reach the kick stand.

I had him sit on a 140 and it was way too big. He had a hard time leaning with one leg down.

And something else popped up. Almost like winning the lottery. I found a guy an hour away from me that’s selling a 2023 KLX100RL with 10hrs on it….as well as a 2023 KLX300R with 10hrs. Both with the balance of the Kawasaki 3yr warranty. Guy bought them for him and his son, and the son lost interest. Said he’d make me a package deal if I bought both. Pics of them they look brand new. Should I consider them? Probably save me $4500 compared to buying new 2024 models
Click to expand...

I’d ask the guy to have them looked over by his local shop with a written report sent directly to you from the shop; probably a couple labor hours. I’d tell him that he can add that expense to the price and that you’ll pay when you pick them up.

Assuming they check out gtg.

Edit: see if he’ll throw in any spares, helmets, other gear too.
 
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#63
Just sold the CRF 50. We have CRF 70, crf 125bigwheel, crf230, kx112, KTM 350.
Past bikes for me xr80, 200, KTM 525, husaberg 550, KTM 250 SXf.
I would imagine your child is growing.

If getting newish I would get them a fuel injected, air-cooled 4stroke, with e start, and a clutch. Like the crf125 big wheel. Just add gas.
It has enough juice to haul me around. Everyone should know how to operate a clutch it's a good life skill, and that bike will basically not stall even at idle if you dump the clutch. Have them go sit on some bikes, and if he can get part of two feet to the ground it's short enough especially if you are in flat ground.

I think your idea for your bike the klx 300 is good. Coming off high dollar 500cc euro bikes to the Honda CRF 230. I was amazed at how good it was for the price. We both the 70 and 230 for like 3k$. No maintenance. Basically.

Just get a Jap bike that fits and go ride don't over think it. If you like it and want more go 2t.
 
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#64
Jigstick said:
View attachment 8520346

Here’s my son sitting on the KLX 110 LR. He’s on his tip toes now but as the suspension breaks in I’m guessing the bike will soften out and he’ll be slightly more flat footed. It seemed to fit him good. Comfortable reaching the brake and clutch levers. Can reach the kick stand.

I had him sit on a 140 and it was way too big. He had a hard time leaning with one leg down.

And something else popped up. Almost like winning the lottery. I found a guy an hour away from me that’s selling a 2023 KLX100RL with 10hrs on it….as well as a 2023 KLX300R with 10hrs. Both with the balance of the Kawasaki 3yr warranty. Guy bought them for him and his son, and the son lost interest. Said he’d make me a package deal if I bought both. Pics of them they look brand new. Should I consider them? Probably save me $4500 compared to buying new 2024 models
Click to expand...

At least in my area used bikes hold value well. New takes a hit.
So if you go pick up the used bikes you'll likely be able to sell them and recoup the cost next year when you figure out the 300 is sad and your kid outgrows the 100. :ROFLMAO:


But seriously, if you can get a deal on 10 hour bikes I wouldn't worry.

My 12 year old went from barely touching to looking like a giant on the kx100 in one summer. That's why kids bikes are always for sale. He's likely getting a 150 2t next summer.
 
#67
Pulled the trigger and got my son the used 2023 KLX110RL. It looked brand new. Owner was a mechanic and you could tell the maintenance was meticulous.

I sat on the KLX300R it fit me well. The guy was honest. Said it’s great for cruising around on the farm. But if my intention was to keep up on guys on some of the more aggressive 250s that I would be disappointed in the 300Rs performance. His main complaint was the weight of the KLX300R. It’s almost 280lbs.

So that got me looking at the Kawasaki KX250x. This appears to be a more “racing” style off road bike. He said this would be more nimble in the woods on tight single track trails. But I’m worried this bike may be too “snappy” and aggressive for my needs.

Any advice here?
 
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#68
Jigstick said:
Pulled the trigger and got my son the used 2023 KLX110RL. It looked brand new. Owner was a mechanic and you could tell the maintenance was meticulous.

I sat on the KLX300R it fit me well. The guy was honest. Said it’s great for cruising around on the farm. But if my intention was to keep up on guys on some of the more aggressive 250s that I would be disappointed in the 300Rs performance. His main complaint was the weight of the KLX300R. It’s almost 280lbs.

So that got me looking at the Kawasaki KX250x. This appears to be a more “racing” style off road bike. He said this would be more nimble in the woods on tight single track trails. But I’m worried this bike may be too “snappy” and aggressive for my needs.

Any advice here?
Click to expand...
Find a Ktm 300 exc that is is good shape.
My personal choice has been the KTM 300 XC with re-valved suspension over the years. The XC can be ridden at the track or woods. I like the gearbox better on the XC.
 
#69
Jigstick said:
Pulled the trigger and got my son the used 2023 KLX110RL. It looked brand new. Owner was a mechanic and you could tell the maintenance was meticulous.

I sat on the KLX300R it fit me well. The guy was honest. Said it’s great for cruising around on the farm. But if my intention was to keep up on guys on some of the more aggressive 250s that I would be disappointed in the 300Rs performance. His main complaint was the weight of the KLX300R. It’s almost 280lbs.

So that got me looking at the Kawasaki KX250x. This appears to be a more “racing” style off road bike. He said this would be more nimble in the woods on tight single track trails. But I’m worried this bike may be too “snappy” and aggressive for my needs.

Any advice here?
Click to expand...
I'm leaning to getting the YZ250x which is the two stroke woods bike. The difference between the motocross and woods version is the power valve timing is different, engine tuning, suspension, and gearing is setup for the woods. I have run across new ones at the end of the model year for $7k

The draw back on the Yamaha is no electric start, the lighting capability sucks. The suspension is one of the best on the market. Which has me looking at the 4 stroke WR250 or 450. I'm slightly afraid of the hot rod 4 strokes in the used market as my KTM 525 was awful on exhaust valves that would lead to catastrophic failures

So the KX250x may be nearly the same setup as the Yamaha

I have looked at all the European bikes. They are $3k+ more than the Yamaha. I really want the Sherco it checks all the boxes, fuel injection, electric start, great lighting capability, KYB suspension.... It's almost $13k.

The Husky is the close second, there was a new 2022 Husky TE250 in Texas for like $7k a couple months ago. I think that was the last year of that version of the WP suspension that left a lot to be desired.
 
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#70
Jigstick said:
Pulled the trigger and got my son the used 2023 KLX110RL. It looked brand new. Owner was a mechanic and you could tell the maintenance was meticulous.

I sat on the KLX300R it fit me well. The guy was honest. Said it’s great for cruising around on the farm. But if my intention was to keep up on guys on some of the more aggressive 250s that I would be disappointed in the 300Rs performance. His main complaint was the weight of the KLX300R. It’s almost 280lbs.

So that got me looking at the Kawasaki KX250x. This appears to be a more “racing” style off road bike. He said this would be more nimble in the woods on tight single track trails. But I’m worried this bike may be too “snappy” and aggressive for my needs.

Any advice here?
Click to expand...
Power is self limiting it's got a clutch and throttle. You can go as fast or as slow as you want. Personally I love 4t 250s in the woods. Usually about 13/50 sprockets.
 
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#71
Jigstick said:
Pulled the trigger and got my son the used 2023 KLX110RL. It looked brand new. Owner was a mechanic and you could tell the maintenance was meticulous.

I sat on the KLX300R it fit me well. The guy was honest. Said it’s great for cruising around on the farm. But if my intention was to keep up on guys on some of the more aggressive 250s that I would be disappointed in the 300Rs performance. His main complaint was the weight of the KLX300R. It’s almost 280lbs.

So that got me looking at the Kawasaki KX250x. This appears to be a more “racing” style off road bike. He said this would be more nimble in the woods on tight single track trails. But I’m worried this bike may be too “snappy” and aggressive for my needs.

Any advice here?
Click to expand...

I have seen brand new 2024 KTM and Husqvarna 300 2t's for sale for $8-9k. Fuel injected, electric start, good suspension.

No matter the bike, you'll always feel better if you have a suspension tuner put the correct valving and spring rates in any setup. The 24+ bikes are all coil spring (most complaints on the WP suspension are from the air forks).

There are some issues on some of the tpi bikes. Relocating the injectors is almost required. 24+ will be TBI and they run better with no issues.


The TX/XC models have no lights and are premix. The TE/XC-W models will have lights and are oil injected. TC models are the full blown motocross ones. Likely not what you're interested in.

My 19 TX300 is 235lb full of fuel and ready to ride. It lugs around on the bottom end or screams on the top and anywhere in-between. I had a local shop do valving and springs. It's still carbed, but the lectron that's on it does a decent job of not needing much adjustment.

17+ are counter-balanced and feel much more dead than the older ones. I can ride all day and not notice any vibration.
 
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#72
chevy_man said:
I have seen brand new 2024 KTM and Husqvarna 300 2t's for sale for $8-9k. Fuel injected, electric start, good suspension.

No matter the bike, you'll always feel better if you have a suspension tuner put the correct valving and spring rates in any setup. The 24+ bikes are all coil spring (most complaints on the WP suspension are from the air forks).

There are some issues on some of the tpi bikes. Relocating the injectors is almost required. 24+ will be TBI and they run better with no issues.


The TX/XC models have no lights and are premix. The TE/XC-W models will have lights and are oil injected. TC models are the full blown motocross ones. Likely not what you're interested in.

My 19 TX300 is 235lb full of fuel and ready to ride. It lugs around on the bottom end or screams on the top and anywhere in-between. I had a local shop do valving and springs. It's still carbed, but the lectron that's on it does a decent job of not needing much adjustment.

17+ are counter-balanced and feel much more dead than the older ones. I can ride all day and not notice any vibration.
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300’s are the best of both worlds, folks call them “3 strokes”.👍
 
#73
The used 2024 KX250X has 10hrs on it. But also has a bunch of crap done to it. I’ll copy and paste the ad below:

“Better than new!! You get Tusk hubs, Tusk rims, 19inch rear wheel, Race Tech Gold Valve suspension done by Bonzi, P3 carbon skidplate, works connection radiator braces, gripper seat cover, renthal gold chain spinning a black X-prox, renthal fat bars. 10.5hrs”

Guy is asking $7100. Local dealer has a left over 2024 brand new and is asking $7k before tax/fees.

Is any of that crap good stuff?
 
#74
Jigstick said:
The used 2024 KX250X has 10hrs on it. But also has a bunch of crap done to it. I’ll copy and paste the ad below:

“Better than new!! You get Tusk hubs, Tusk rims, 19inch rear wheel, Race Tech Gold Valve suspension done by Bonzi, P3 carbon skidplate, works connection radiator braces, gripper seat cover, renthal gold chain spinning a black X-prox, renthal fat bars. 10.5hrs”

Guy is asking $7100. Local dealer has a left over 2024 brand new and is asking $7k before tax/fees.

Is any of that crap good stuff?
Click to expand...
Thats all good stuff. Not everyone needs all of that(wheels for example), but things like the radiator braces and the Renthal bar are good. Most bike come with no radiator braces and shit bars. So if you have a minor tipover, you can kill the bars and one radiator comically easy. This has been remedied to some degree these days. There’s about 1500-2k worth of stuff there.

Regarding the Racetech gold valves, they're nice, but they need to be set up to the rider and terrain. Ask who installed them and what they were set up for. This is something you can do at home, but takes some experience. For your sake, if the seller is a much different size than you or very experienced rider, assume they're not set up for you. That ok, have a shop set them up, its not a terrible cost. Properly setup suspension is super important, and often overlooked.
 
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#75
Not very familiar with the current market, but I’ve finally learned after a lifetime of trying to do shit the cheap way, that it’s always better to buy the best, most reliable tool/part/widget that you can afford.

Buy once, cry once.

I’d pay a bit more to get the features you want, like electric start, etc. now…or wait. Don’t try to retrofit, or think you can sell whatever intermediate bike you think will be OK, just because it’s cheap, and/or available right now.

Buy once, cry once.

—

On a separate note, that 300 you passed on would have been perfect for my needs a few years ago when I was still working. I really wanted a streetable enduro that I could ride to and from work as a cheap nice weather commuter, and still use it to hit some easier trails on the weekends.
 
#77
The Tusk rims are decent.... they are a value brand and probably the cheapest option to get a new assembly. Not sure what the bike would have come with that the tusk would be an upgrade over though?? Also- the 19" rear wheel is not an upgrade for the kind of ridding you are describing. The bigger back rim is used to get the sidewall shorter for more stiffness .... but for trail riding you want an 18 (not sure what the bike came with but would bet it was an 18).
 
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#78
Jigstick said:
I’m still considering the KLX300R. But the KX250X is interesting as well. I’d the 300 didn’t weight 283lbs dry I would have purchased it already
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I’m admittedly biased towards KTM/Husqvarna, but also look at the Honda offerings for the niche you seem to be moving towards…

I think Honda does a better job on their clutch, as well as engine/transmission integration than pretty much anyone, including the Euro brands.

Just my $0.02
 
#79
SmartDonkey said:
The Tusk rims are decent.... they are a value brand and probably the cheapest option to get a new assembly. Not sure what the bike would have come with that the tusk would be an upgrade over though?? Also- the 19" rear wheel is not an upgrade for the kind of ridding you are describing. The bigger back rim is used to get the sidewall shorter for more stiffness .... but for trail riding you want an 18 (not sure what the bike came with but would bet it was an 18).
Click to expand...

It may have been used as a supermoto at some point. I really, really dig those, but I’d be dead inside a week if I rode one around here. I’ve never seen worse drivers anywhere…and I lived in Cairo, Egypt, and Naples, IT for awhile! LoL
 
#80
KTM 300XCW. It has everything you need except some skids and radiator protection and hand guards. Electric start, and great for a beginner to an expert. Add a steering stabilizer when you can afford it and possibly an auto clutch.
 
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#81
I’m very biased towards the KTM/Husky , but disagree with the 300 XC/XCW recommendations. I’ve owned a bunch of them (300’s) at this point. Absolutely fantastic bikes, but I don’t think they’re beginner motorcycles in any way shape or form. Yes you can lug them around, but they are very spicy up top. The OP is an an absolute beginner.

That Kx300 is probably a great first bike, he’s not exactly gonna be setting the world on fire regardless of what he’s riding, I don’t think the weight means anything. It’s soft and stable, and will allow him to learn clutch and throttle control.
 
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#82
Jigstick said:
The used 2024 KX250X has 10hrs on it. But also has a bunch of crap done to it. I’ll copy and paste the ad below:

“Better than new!! You get Tusk hubs, Tusk rims, 19inch rear wheel, Race Tech Gold Valve suspension done by Bonzi, P3 carbon skidplate, works connection radiator braces, gripper seat cover, renthal gold chain spinning a black X-prox, renthal fat bars. 10.5hrs”

Guy is asking $7100. Local dealer has a left over 2024 brand new and is asking $7k before tax/fees.

Is any of that crap good stuff?
Click to expand...

Is it worth money? Yes. Is it what you need? Maybe...


Tusk rims are the cheapest thing you can get. Rocky mountain ATV house brand.
19" rear is not necessary, but 18"-19" is so preference.

Suspension will still need to be set for your weight and riding conditions. Race tech does make quality stuff.

Skid plates aren't that expensive. Mine is 1/2” thick delrin and has a ton of scrapes and gouges. Not something carbon is good with. It likely looks cool.

Radiator braces aren't super necessary. I have only smashed 1 radiator in 20 years. The hard Enduro guys are dropping their bikes on rocks and trees all the time and think they're necessary. I don't bother with them myself.

Gripper seat is cool.

Chain and sprockets are wear items. Supersprox have lasted the longest for me, and I run whatever quality US or Japanese made chain I can find.

Bars are personal preference. I used to run renthal Windham bend, but they're damn close to the stock pro-taper husky bars. All the motocross or euro bikes will have quality name brand bars.

I would question why he replaced some of the stuff. And if he has the stock parts or he's had some bad wrecks and broke tons of stuff.

If it's all the same money I'd spend it on the brand new bike.
 
#83
Supersubes said:
I’m very biased towards the KTM/Husky , but disagree with the 300 XC/XCW recommendations. I’ve owned a bunch of them (300’s) at this point. Absolutely fantastic bikes, but I don’t think they’re beginner motorcycles in any way shape or form. Yes you can lug them around, but they are very spicy up top. The OP is an an absolute beginner.

That Kx300 is probably a great first bike, he’s not exactly gonna be setting the world on fire regardless of what he’s riding, I don’t think the weight means anything. It’s soft and stable, and will allow him to learn clutch and throttle control.
Click to expand...

I learned on a 60hp 2t in the 90s... I was 14 and 130 lbs at 5'6".

Learned how the clutch and throttle worked real quick. Your hand determines how spicy it is.

The whole "finger on the clutch" thing works pretty good. If it gets crazy you're about 1" from killing all power to the tire.
 
#84
chevy_man said:
I learned on a 60hp 2t in the 90s... I was 14 and 130 lbs at 5'6".

Learned how the clutch and throttle worked real quick. Your hand determines how spicy it is.

The whole "finger on the clutch" thing works pretty good. If it gets crazy you're about 1" from killing all power to the tire.
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You and me both, but thats not the right way, we just happened to make it out be because we were young and lucky. OP is not young. If anything the big bike slowed our progress. I became a much better rider when I went down to a 125. Every element of my riding got better. Overall speed, conserving momentum, stamina, clutch, throttle, etc.
 
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#86
Take a look at the Yamaha 250 X. It’s a two stroke and is already set up for the trails. Maybe a flywheel weight and some handguards is all you need to add to this bike. Plus you could hand this off to your son in a few years.
 
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#87
Trailgomer said:
Take a look at the Yamaha 250 X. It’s a two stroke and is already set up for the trails. Maybe a flywheel weight and some handguards is all you need to add to this bike. Plus you could hand this off to your son in a few years.
Click to expand...
One of the top ones of my list. If Yamaha would update the bike with electric start, better lighting capability, and maybe fuel injection it would be the second right behind the Sherco.
 
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#88
Sat on the used KLX300R. It’s comfortable for sure. It almost looks small in the photos. But the riding position felt very natural to me.

IMG_5528.jpeg


IMG_5529.jpeg



I also sat on a new KX250X. It sat higher being new suspension that hasn’t been broken in. The foot pegs / handlebar on it put me into a slightly more forward and higher seating positron. Which felt a little unnatural for me. I felt top heavy. If that makes any sense.
 
#89
Jigstick said:
Sat on the used KLX300R. It’s comfortable for sure. It almost looks small in the photos. But the riding position felt very natural to me.

View attachment 8522220

View attachment 8522225


I also sat on a new KX250X. It sat higher being new suspension that hasn’t been broken in. The foot pegs / handlebar on it put me into a slightly more forward and higher seating positron. Which felt a little unnatural for me. I felt top heavy. If that makes any sense.
Click to expand...
At least you have the leg length for most bikes. 28" inseam here.
 
#90
Jigstick said:
Sat on the used KLX300R. It’s comfortable for sure. It almost looks small in the photos. But the riding position felt very natural to me.

View attachment 8522220

View attachment 8522225


I also sat on a new KX250X. It sat higher being new suspension that hasn’t been broken in. The foot pegs / handlebar on it put me into a slightly more forward and higher seating positron. Which felt a little unnatural for me. I felt top heavy. If that makes any sense.
Click to expand...
The suspension on a new bike does not settle after use. Its sitting on springs just like any car. Springs will hold their rate for a really long time. The KX250 is taller just because its racier bike with higher performance suspension.

@Jigstick most factory bikes are sprung for a 160-ish pounds rider. You're very likely 5-7 spring rates away from where you should be. In other words, you cant properly set sag on any factory bike without swapping the springs to match your weight.
 
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#91
If all “race” style bikes put you into that more aggressive riding posture I know I won’t like it. That would solidify my decision on the KLX.

That KLX in the photo seemed a little “mushy” on the rear suspension. I have no clue where it will be sag wise until I got it home and up on a stand to adjust it
 
#92
Jigstick said:
If all “race” style bikes put you into that more aggressive riding posture I know I won’t like it. That would solidify my decision on the KLX.

That KLX in the photo seemed a little “mushy” on the rear suspension. I have no clue where it will be sag wise until I got it home and up on a stand to adjust it
Click to expand...
Have you bought it yet?
 
#94
Jigstick said:
If all “race” style bikes put you into that more aggressive riding posture I know I won’t like it. That would solidify my decision on the KLX.

That KLX in the photo seemed a little “mushy” on the rear suspension. I have no clue where it will be sag wise until I got it home and up on a stand to adjust it
Click to expand...
That’s the catch, you dont really know what the posture should be yet. There are only a few instances where you should be sitting. The other 95% of your riding should be done standing.
 
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