did i made an error while mounting this scope?

R

randello88

Private
Minuteman
Sep 5, 2020
41
13
#1
Hi, i am probably massively overthinking this but, since this is a pretty expensive rig, i want to set it up in the best way. I mounted the scope following a strict procedure (the crosshair is level to gravity and to the top ring bubble, everything is torqued down to specs). It was a long process and i wish i won't have to do it again.

Using the typical criss cross pattern method i torqued every top ring screw to 25 in/lbs with these hawkins light tactical 30 mm rings.

At the end of the process i was very satisfied because the system crosshair-bubble is perfectly leveled to gravity. I noticed that the gap between the front and rear rings is not perfectly even. I read somewhere that someone is even using feeler gauges to check fo uniformity in the gaps. Since of course having the exact identical gap is impossible, i want to understand if in my case the gap differences are acceptable or not.

I measured with a feeler gauge: rear left 0.9 mm (0.035 inches) gap, rear right 0.9 mm gap, front left 0.80 mm (0.031 inches) gap, front right 0.85 mm gap. So basically there is a max 0.1 mm (1/256 inches) difference between the rear and the front rings, while there is a max 0.05 mm (1/512 inches) difference between left and right.

i will post some pics. The gap is not easily visible in these pics i think but when looking in person i notice it.

what do you guys think?
 

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#4
Now that the scope is correctly mounted, another suggestion is to put witness marks on scope and one ring so, when you inevitably have to remove the scope, putting it back is vastly easier.
 
#7
randello88 said:
So you think it is mounted correctly despite the uneven gaps?
Click to expand...
Yes. If it was me, I'd leave it alone and go shoot.

If you can't leave it alone (aka OCD) - as Rob said, you can fiddle with the rings one at a time, or you can do the witness mark thing and just start again. Or do something in between.

Or leave it alone and go shoot. The gaps are fine.
 
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#11
Supersubes said:
Just do what Rob01 said, even one out and re-torque, then do the same to the other. You dont need feeler gauges. You should know how to do this, and it looks janky if you dont.
Click to expand...
Why do you say it looks "janky", did you look at the pics? Is it that terrible of a job?

And also if everyone says it doesn’t matter, why should i mess with the rings again? Just for cosmetics? I don't see cosmetic issues honestly, 0.1 mm is not gonna impact my rifle in my eyes and i am not sure i could "fix" this that easily, 1/500th of an inch is not much.

Honestly i thought that almost anyone had this kind of gap in his rifles, I asked here just to be sure and now it seems like a big deal :/
 
#12
randello88 said:
Why do you say it looks "janky", did you look at the pics? Is it that terrible of a job?

And also if everyone says it doesn’t matter, why should i mess with the rings again? Just for cosmetics? I don't see cosmetic issues honestly, 0.1 mm is not gonna impact my rifle in my eyes and i am not sure i could "fix" this that easily, 1/500th of an inch is not much.

Honestly i thought that almost anyone had this kind of gap in his rifles, I asked here just to be sure and now it seems like a big deal :/
Click to expand...
You're free to do whatever you want, but you made a thread about it because you know it looks wrong. Mounting scopes is a basic skill which you should know how to do, so do it right, simple as that.
 
#13
I think i mounted at least 30 scopes in my life, i just didn't know about this "gap" thing. It doesn't look wrong to me, at all. I couldn't care less about 0.1 (man, 0.1) mm gap. I wrote here to understand if this has something to do with function or if it just an OCD thing, not because i knew it looked wrong

Let me understand. Getting a 0.1 gap between 2 rings means that you are lacking the basic scope mounting skills?

Did you check the gap width on all your scopes after finishing mounting them?
 
#16
randello88 said:
I think i mounted at least 30 scopes in my life, i just didn't know about this "gap" thing. It doesn't look wrong to me, at all. I couldn't care less about 0.1 (man, 0.1) mm gap. I wrote here to understand if this has something to do with function or if it just an OCD thing, not because i knew it looked wrong

Let me understand. Getting a 0.1 gap between 2 rings means that you are lacking the basic scope mounting skills?

Did you check the gap width on all your scopes after finishing mounting them?
Click to expand...
Let it go, dude. You asked a question, got a unanimous answer, one guy pokes an appearance comment into the thread, and you swallowed the hook.

The fucking gap doesn't matter. Nobody is going to get close enough to see a gap anyway. Don't feed the trolls. And please don't buy a chronograph or borescope or you'll never get any sleep.
 
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#17
randello88 said:
I think i mounted at least 30 scopes in my life, i just didn't know about this "gap" thing. It doesn't look wrong to me, at all. I couldn't care less about 0.1 (man, 0.1) mm gap. I wrote here to understand if this has something to do with function or if it just an OCD thing, not because i knew it looked wrong

Let me understand. Getting a 0.1 gap between 2 rings means that you are lacking the basic scope mounting skills?

Did you check the gap width on all your scopes after finishing mounting them?
Click to expand...
You mounted 30 scopes and you've never paid attention to a basic detail but “ It was a long process and i wish i won't have to do it again”. Somethings not adding up.

Edit: your first pic, which is the only one I looked at initially, makes it look worse than it is. My bad, i would not try to remount them.
 
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#18
I try to even gaps out, but it depends on the rings. Badgers have huge gaps for instance, but others have smaller gaps. If I feel like the light’s playing tricks on me I’ll get the feeler gages out, but I only do one ring at a time to keep the scope level. You can go nuts doing this stuff; as long as it’s close and the torque values are correct and applied in the proper sequence there shouldn’t be an issue.
 
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#19
Notice that not one person has given you an example of what could happen if that gap isn’t equalized? That’s because there is likely no one who has tested this to see if there’s a problem.
In my case, I’m a jeweler and gun Engraver who works to exacting tolerance. So equalized gaps are just part of my procedure. But I seriously doubt that if they were not dead requiem that I worked see any difference on target.
 
#20
Southern Custom said:
Notice that not one person has given you an example of what could happen if that gap isn’t equalized? That’s because there is likely no one who has tested this to see if there’s a problem.
In my case, I’m a jeweler and gun Engraver who works to exacting tolerance. So equalized gaps are just part of my procedure. But I seriously doubt that if they were not dead requiem that I worked see any difference on target.
Click to expand...
imagine that before posting this thread i was almosg sure that this could be considered equalized since the differences were (i thought) negligible.

I agree that mlst likely there is no real
world consequence, thank you for
the reply!

I am curious about your procedure to equalize the gaps
 
#21
Sum Ting Wong said:
You’re worried about a gap difference of 4 thou(.004)? That’s around the same thickness of a human hair…
Click to expand...
I know it's not much, i was hoping more people confirmed me that this is not even considered an uneven gap. That said, most people told it is fine, I am not even sure is it doable to do so much better than this without really spending hours or going crazy. With the top level that has to be spot on, it's not that easy to even the freakin gaps out
 
#23
randello88 said:
I know it's not much, i was hoping more people confirmed me that this is not even considered an uneven gap. That said, most people told it is fine, I am not even sure is it doable to do so much better than this without really spending hours or going crazy. With the top level that has to be spot on, it's not that easy to even the freakin gaps out
Click to expand...
JFC let it go already

I bet you're the kind that buys something and then endlessly posts about all the "defects" you found in it.
 
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#24
randello88 said:
Hi, i am probably massively overthinking this but, since this is a pretty expensive rig, i want to set it up in the best way. I mounted the scope following a strict procedure (the crosshair is level to gravity and to the top ring bubble, everything is torqued down to specs). It was a long process and i wish i won't have to do it again.

Using the typical criss cross pattern method i torqued every top ring screw to 25 in/lbs with these hawkins light tactical 30 mm rings.

At the end of the process i was very satisfied because the system crosshair-bubble is perfectly leveled to gravity. I noticed that the gap between the front and rear rings is not perfectly even. I read somewhere that someone is even using feeler gauges to check fo uniformity in the gaps. Since of course having the exact identical gap is impossible, i want to understand if in my case the gap differences are acceptable or not.

I measured with a feeler gauge: rear left 0.9 mm (0.035 inches) gap, rear right 0.9 mm gap, front left 0.80 mm (0.031 inches) gap, front right 0.85 mm gap. So basically there is a max 0.1 mm (1/256 inches) difference between the rear and the front rings, while there is a max 0.05 mm (1/512 inches) difference between left and right.

i will post some pics. The gap is not easily visible in these pics i think but when looking in person i notice it.

what do you guys think?
Click to expand...
If you have it level the way you want and torqued properly (and you say you have), then I wouldn't even consider messing with it further. Go shoot and be happy.

Cheers
 
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#26
308pirate said:
JFC let it go already

I bet you're the kind that buys something and then endlessly posts about all the "defects" you found in it.
Click to expand...
As a psychiatrist i am used to see weird stuff but that, also for me, would be a pretty unusual way to spend free time. I prefer reading books, hunting, girls and spending time with my friends or with my family when i am not at work. You have a very creative imagination my friend ;)

I almost never post on forums, only when i need advice. Usually when i need advice is because (possibly) i have a problem of some kind. 99% of the time i buy something i don't even think about posting.
 
#28
308pirate said:
You're all the fuel I need
Click to expand...
Yeah, that's what a patient of mine would say. He would end up tied up though 😜

Edit: just to be clear, i am joking man, actually i am happy to be inspirational and i am happy you are having fun imagining things.. i usually prefer to keep the conversations, especially with people i don't know, respectful and productive. You may find out that is more pleasant to stay in a forum just talking with other people in a way which allows you to share your thoughts about your interests and passions instead of attacking them. Nothing personal anyway, i wish you great days at the range
 
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#30
randello88 said:
imagine that before posting this thread i was almosg sure that this could be considered equalized since the differences were (i thought) negligible.

I agree that mlst likely there is no real
world consequence, thank you for
the reply!

I am curious about your procedure to equalize the gaps
Click to expand...
I typically hand tighten all screws evenly, as in, just the torx bit in 2 fingers, just until the bolt seats. I will futz with things until equal, as measured by feelers. Once I know the gap, I remove the hardware, apply small amount of loctite 243 (check expiration date first!) to bolt (making sure to get a smudge on the underside of the bolt cap also, as that's a interface that will gall) and bolt hole of mount, and then throw the ring cap back on there and quickly (you have about 3-5 minutes from when you cut loctite off from air. Nearly unlimited time before) hand torque it down. I will then "clamp" the correct thickness feeler on 1 side while doing so, to ensure the pre-established equal gap is there. Then, once all bolts are fingertip/torx bit seated, I remove the feeler, and torque by 1/8 turn on each bolt, correct crisscross pattern, until the specified torque (15 in lb for my Reptilia mount) is reached. I do this by "chicken winging" my arm forward so my elbow is at 90 from my side. I then close my "wing" until my triceps hits my lat. This is about 1/8 of a bolt turn. This and using quality mounts has prevented optics turning in the rings 100%. I will remove my phone from the case and true it to my Badger Dead Level, and then to the uncapped turret on my nightforce. I've never had to unclamp or adjust a ring due to turning of scope as I tighten. Annoyingly, even when ring gaps are almost perfectly equal, my Acro P2 has about 0.2* axial rotation as measured against the top of the acro's turret vs the Badger DL. It just can't be 100% perfect I guess. Somehow I doubt it matters.
20241024_082451.jpg
 
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