.300 RUM muzzle brake suggestions

Boatninja

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  • Sep 3, 2018
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    Out there somewhere
    As title suggests, does anyone have suggestions?
    A friend brought me an older Sendero 300 RUM and asked if I could get it sighted in and shooting right. I asked what exactly was it doing , he said nothing exactly, nobody has ever shot it more than 2 rounds! I said welll, let's see if we can find the mother of all muzzle brakes!
     
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    Brother In Law has a BDL .300 Ultra. With a Decelerator recoil pad, I didn’t find recoil terrible. I think he runs 180 Accubonds around 3200 (granted, I was 10 years younger the last time I shot it). The Sendero should provide more weight.
    With a good recoil pad, I don’t think it’ll be all that objectionable to a reasonably experienced shooter. At least for sighting in and shooting a few rounds at a time.
    I’d shoot it before I put a brake on it, as I’ve gotten to where I simply hate a brake.
     
    Is it threaded? If not then the you’ll want a clamp on, witt machine or kahntrol solutions.
    I got the radial (Vais?) brake off of it today and it seems to have an odd thread pitch. The threaded part is 5/8" diameter but the threads appear to be finer than what one would expect, a 5/8x24 brake or thread protector will not thread on, any thoughts? Friend that owns the gun says it is completely factory.
     
    I got the radial (Vais?) brake off of it today and it seems to have an odd thread pitch. The threaded part is 5/8" diameter but the threads appear to be finer than what one would expect, a 5/8x24 brake or thread protector will not thread on, any thoughts? Friend that owns the gun says it is completely factory.
    No, but a thread pitch gauge can be had for less than 15 bucks on Amazon
    1732750390367.jpeg
     
    Here is my factory Rem Sendaro, I milled the reciever and bolt stop.
    Complete with altered 4.020" magazine to run 250 gr Atips with 101 grs of powder at 2985 fps in the factory 26" barrel...
    I also threaded the barrel for a muzzle brake, that allows one to shoot alot of rounds in complete comfort from the prone...it does push a blast back at the shooter, but that can be ignored after a few rounds, with a huge reduction in recoil. It's a Precision Armament M4-72.
     

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    Then it should be 5/8-24.

    Yea, should be , but it's not.
    I thought the senderos came unthreaded?
    As such I think it could be whatever the gunsmith made it?
    I know Vais has some weird options and are out of business so no central depository if I go on them to tell if there was another pretreated option. I know they made 1/2x32 which was weird, if we are taking bets I bet yours is 5/8x28, maybe x32
     
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    I got
    I thought the senderos came unthreaded?
    As such I think it could be whatever the gunsmith made it?
    I know Vais has some weird options and are out of business so no central depository if I go on them to tell if there was another pretreated option. I know they made 1/2x32 which was weird, if we are taking bets I bet yours is 5/8x28, maybe x32
    I got a thread gauge and it looks like 5/8x32, the gauge is inscribed with 32G. I'm not exactly sure what the "G" signifies?
    On a side note, the 'smith that owned Vais had a shop in Hondo Tx put a Hart Barrel and Vais suppressor on a rifle for me, some years (20?) ago. He had just got a contract with Remington to produce those radial suppressors. He has now succumbed to Oldtimers disease and is, if alive, incoherent.
     
    I thought the senderos came unthreaded?
    As such I think it could be whatever the gunsmith made it?
    I know Vais has some weird options and are out of business so no central depository if I go on them to tell if there was another pretreated option. I know they made 1/2x32 which was weird, if we are taking bets I bet yours is 5/8x28, maybe x32
    My 1st Gen Sendero in .220 Swift, which they supposedly didn't make but did, because I have one.
    Worst case scenario would be get a smith to cut you a female(5/8x32)/male(5/8x24)thread converter.
    I think just cut this 1/2" or so of this aggravating part off, crown, thread 5/8x24 and go down the road. As I said in OP, not my rifle...
     
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    Shot it today, showed promise! Recoil actually not as bad as I expected, still it needs a better brake.
    There is enough barrel between the flutes and muzzle to lop off this oddball part and and thread 5/8x24 without it looking odd or butchered, really only actually taking a little over 1/2 " off the total barrel length. I didn't think the gun owner would for that, but he didn't seem bothered in the least
    AND THANK'S EVERYSOMEBODY ! for all the suggestions.!
     
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    Really, cause the female end gets thicker to create a larger shoulder. Not that hard really, but for you probably impossible to understand. But they picked an easier/better solution. Now go back into your cave!
     
    Really, cause the female end gets thicker to create a larger shoulder. Not that hard really, but for you probably impossible to understand. But they picked an easier/better solution. Now go back into your cave!
    You can’t cover a 5/8 diameter with a 5/8 diameter. Draw it out. Show your work.
     
    Not exactly what you two are discussing but a course thread can be cut (lathe) over a fine thread of the same diameter. The major diameter remains, it's the increased depth of the minor diameter that makes it workable. It's not the picture perfect, shiny, smooth thread that gets the oohs and ahhs but it can work, and it's not bad. A quick glance won't see a difference. The further apart the pitch the better it works.

    If I needed to do what the OP described on one of my rifles that is probably what I would try first. Whether I used it, or cut it off and threaded a half inch short, would be decided after inspection.

    Thank you,
    MrSmith
     
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    Not exactly what you two are discussing but a course thread can be cut (lathe) over a fine thread of the same diameter. The major diameter remains, it's the increased depth of the minor diameter that makes it workable. It's not the picture perfect, shiny, smooth thread that gets the oohs and ahhs but it can work, and it's not bad. A quick glance won't see a difference. The further apart the pitch the better it works.

    If I needed to do what the OP described on one of my rifles that is probably what I would try first. Whether I used it, or cut it off and threaded a half inch short, would be decided after inspection.

    Thank you,
    MrSmith
    That’s gonna look like complete dog shit.
     
    Is it threaded? If not then the you’ll want a clamp on, witt machine or kahntrol solutions.

    Haven't heard of kahntrol,but have experience with Witt machine breaks, on many different calibers ,including 300 RUM. A Witt machine break will tame that trigger into a kitten........they are ugly ,but work extremely well. If going the Witt route, follow measuring instructions to the T.

    Edit : Having read past quoted comment, after my above remarks , Never mind
     
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    That’s gonna look like complete dog shit.

    Exactly my thoughts when I heard about it. Then I tried it. Not bad, coarse over fine. Fine over coarse does "look like complete dog shit".

    Chuck up a piece of bar stock and try it. Start the over cut easy, give the tool time to create the new path, then you can increase the cut a bit if you feel the need.

    Thank you,
    MrSmith
     
    As title suggests, does anyone have suggestions?
    A friend brought me an older Sendero 300 RUM and asked if I could get it sighted in and shooting right. I asked what exactly was it doing , he said nothing exactly, nobody has ever shot it more than 2 rounds! I said welll, let's see if we can find the mother of all muzzle brakes!
    Woof! Probably a reason for no more than 2 rounds! 300 RUM with a brake! Sounds like a prescription for having the range to one’s self, alright. I don’t know how someone could shoot that WITHOUT a break (?).
     
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    Exactly my thoughts when I heard about it. Then I tried it. Not bad, coarse over fine. Fine over coarse does "look like complete dog shit".

    Chuck up a piece of bar stock and try it. Start the over cut easy, give the tool time to create the new path, then you can increase the cut a bit if you feel the need.

    Thank you,
    MrSmith
    I can see it in my head, and I can draw it to see it with my eyes. There’s no need to waste machining time and material. It would work better than trying to make a female/male adapter of identical diameters though.
     
    What does that even mean? “A very large second diameter”. 5/8 is 5/8 is 5/8. What is this “second diameter you’ve referred to?
     
    You can’t have a male 5/8 diameter and a female 5/8 diameter occupy the same space, without having nothing there at all. There’s no material left.
     
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