Hello everyone I was curious for anyone who has a raptar S, ES what or how they go about their zero process with their scope? Thank you very much in advance all!
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Rifle Scopes Raptar-S, ES zero procedure
- Thread starter Desert Rat
- Start date
Set a white target at 100m and get your scope cross center(turrets set at 0) , then turn on raptar vis laser and center it looking trough the scope at the cross, move your target at 500-600m and repat the steps(at evening, low light condition). It’s easy 
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No. Scope has to always be set for zeroing range when using raptar. Then after finding range use data card or kestrel and dial turrets.
There are two methods
Here is a link
Surveyor's Target
- The offset method - This is a bit complicated but gives great results. When you got your RAPTAR there is a chart included that is an alignment chart. You basically have to recreate this chart for your mounting method. The way to do it is as follows. Thanks to @wigwamitus
- Mount the RAPTAR on the gun ... and preferably on a tripod.
- Then measure 4 offsets. One pair of offsets is the horizontal distance from the center of the barrel to the center of the laser aperture. The other offset is the vertical distance from the center of the barrel to the center of the laser aperture. The third offset is the vertical distance from the center of the optic reticle to the center of the barrel.
- Then draw yourself a picture. It can be on 1 inch (or half inch) grid paper if you like. In the center of the picture, place a dot for the center of the optic reticle. Make sure the dot representing the center of the optical reticle is highly visible (use a colored dot). Then measure off the distance down to the center of the barrel and mark the center of the barrel on the picture.
- Then draw your horizontal and verticle offsets to the laser aperture on the picture. Then connect those two lines by extending them until they meet. The point at which the extended lines meet is the center of the laser aperture. Mark that point on the drawing.Each drawing is very specific to a set of mounts for the laser and the optic. And any change you make to the mount or the scope etc. will require a different drawing.
- Then go outside and setup the target at about 25yds from the tripod and aim the optic on the rifle at the aiming point on the drawing (that you marked as the center of the reticle). Then adjust the vis laser on the RAPTAR until the laser is pointing at the point on the drawing corresponding to the laser. Then you will be parallel boresighted with the aiming laser on the drawing. I actually perform this step at 100 yards or further by using a reflective patch (see below). MAKE SURE that the elevation setting is set to zero on your optic regardless of the distance you use.
- Infinity zero method - You do a short range zero (25 to 50 yard). The day scopes reticle center dot and the visible laser are aligned as accurately as possible. This is the coarse zero. You then range a target located several hundred meters aways. More than 600 is optimal. Make sure that scope turret is still set to zero otherwise it will be wrong. Once again you align the reticle with the visible laser. At this longer distance, the optical axis of the day scope and the optical axis of the laser are essentially in parallel. You need to do both parts because the coarse zero introduces a shit ton of error. Even if you do the second zero at 100 yards, it won't be accurate at distance. This is easier to do at night using the IR laser and NV. There is a great article about this located here. Doing it with the visible laser during the day is harder and may require a target like nVisti offers
Here is a link
Surveyor's Target
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I've posted up the processes I use in the NV subforum a few times. I'll hunt down the links and share here as well.
But Nik.H's post is pretty close.
I also have a process to align with a thermal reticle.
Actually, this fairly recent post has both the day scope and the thermal process.
www.snipershide.com
But Nik.H's post is pretty close.
I also have a process to align with a thermal reticle.
Actually, this fairly recent post has both the day scope and the thermal process.
Night Shooting Report ...
... ou might want to try a L.E. Wilson case length headspace gauge to set your sizing die. I got one :D ... but haven't been able to translate the instructions yet ... they seem to be written in "martian" 😉 So I'm using the "feel" method ... turn it until it "feels" right !! :D
www.snipershide.com
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Not sure I understand.
When I range, I make sure that the scope elevation is set to zero (100 yards) and aim with the scope reticle on the target. I don't worry about the offset when I aim.
Let me know if that makes sense to you
If you have zero’d the laser according to the drawing, the laser and your reticle are not directed at the same point of aim.
Like, according to your drawing, the laser is aimed about 2” higher and left of the reticle POA. So then in the field, whatever your reticle is aiming at, isn’t what your laser is aimed at.
Does this make sense? Please correct me…
My general understanding is that there are 2 methods.
First is where you zero the laser to converge with the reticle, at as far a distance as possible. Second is to zero the laser to be parallel to the reticle.
Convergent method in practice: point the reticle at your target and range it.
Parallel method you have to account for the offset and then range targets with that specific reticle hold.
Maybe my core understanding here is off?
First is where you zero the laser to converge with the reticle, at as far a distance as possible. Second is to zero the laser to be parallel to the reticle.
Convergent method in practice: point the reticle at your target and range it.
Parallel method you have to account for the offset and then range targets with that specific reticle hold.
Maybe my core understanding here is off?
Converging the laser with the optic is only accurate at one distance. Think about it. If you draw a straight line to the target from the optic's center and the laser is shifted to coincide, it will do so only at that point. Before or after, the optical path and laser light path can be pretty far apart.
The preferred method of zeroing is that the laser and optical center are parallel to each other. Since the optical and laser paths are parallel, and the offset is small, it does not change with distance. The further the target is, the better you can guarantee the parallel path, which makes it accurate at all distances.
Make sense?
The converging method is bogus, that makes sense.
The offset is small yes, and you don’t find that it matters at all?
I’ve seen videos from Vortex 4000 guys and they account for the parallel offset.
I do it separately from optic zero. I zero the RAPTAR at 300 yards because that is all I have available. Further is better. The reflective patch is important. as it reflects the laser splash well. Otherwise, it is hard to see the laser hitting the target at that distance.
If you dont mind please PM me those videos. I believe I have reached out to most of them, but you definitely do NOT want to do this. If you do this, the farther out you go the farther you are vertically away from the target. For example: If your offset ends up being 1 mil at 100 yds that means your laser is 3.6" (1mil) above your crosshair center. If you hold that offset of 1mil at 1000yds(36") you are now aound 36" below your target because your laser is only 3.6" above/parallel to your crosshair. Make Sense?
Please let me know if you have any questions.
Best Regards
Scott
Primary method is cowitness laser to day scope reticle set to the 100yd zero distance. This is ideal when using a NO DIAL reticle. In fact, that's a key advantage of the NO DIAL reticle. Such as the T3, etc.
IF YOU DIAL, then the process needs to be:
Dial down to zero stop to range.
Dial back up to your drop on the elevation turret and shoot.
Next target, repeat, dial back down to zero stop to range.
Dial back up to your drop on the elevation turret to shoot.
Third target, repeat, dial back down to the zero stop to range.
Dial back up to your drop to shoot.
This is why we like NO DIAL reticles !!!
IF YOU DIAL, then the process needs to be:
Dial down to zero stop to range.
Dial back up to your drop on the elevation turret and shoot.
Next target, repeat, dial back down to zero stop to range.
Dial back up to your drop on the elevation turret to shoot.
Third target, repeat, dial back down to the zero stop to range.
Dial back up to your drop to shoot.
This is why we like NO DIAL reticles !!!
Here’s a YouTube vid describing “truing” the Vortex 4000.
It’s kind of clever, but he is essentially eliminating the parallel zero by doing this “truing” process.
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