Years ago when I built diffs, I would hone the inside of the bearing to create a slip fit. Just slide it on on and off and use it for future builds. Dana’s sucked especially,,, shims behind all the bearings. Ford 9 inch and the 14 bolt GM corporate were the easiest with the carrier spanners for backlash and preload. Pinion carriers and pinion support bearings on those also
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Horse Power, Track Shit, Torque, Cubic Inches, Liters, Run What Ya Brung, Auto or Cycle
- Thread starter DarnYankeeUSMC
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I bought an extra bearing to do just that, but then my buddy let me borrow his 12t shop press and a bearing splitter. Once you get the work flow down its not to bad. I then used the brand new bearing at the end after I got my pinion shim correct.
Luckily the 8.8 has external carrier shims, just have to spread the case slightly to get everything in once you add the pre-load shims.
Is it really a "barn find" if it has been sitting in your garage for the better part of 20 years? Sure why not. Parked "sideways" on dollies and pushed in between the daily drivers, with motorcycles in front, and an itty bitty Fiat behind it....it just sat. Why you may ask. Long story revolving around parts that just could not be found at the time. Can they be found now, who knows, but that is not going to stop me, it will be on the road again.
Stay tuned for infrequent updates, first parts are here already, new cyl's for brakes and clutch.
Stay tuned for infrequent updates, first parts are here already, new cyl's for brakes and clutch.
I saw this one in a feed elsewhere. The phrase “Shut Up and take my Money!” Popped it of my mouth at the time. 
What a fantastic shape. Makes me detest the 4 wheel abominations of modern times even more.
Update: the shop found a current generation WRX motor and can install it. I'm getting an unequal length header and aftermarket intake and exhaust and dyno tuning.
Shitty company warning.
Do not buy from Vividracing.com or Anzo headlights.
I figured Id put this here.
I ordered replacement headlight for my 2012 Mustang. Ordered Anzo lights from Vivid Racing in AZ because they were supposed to be direct replacement for my HID lights. $1000 shipped and arrived with a defect from Anzo (wiring issue where conncetions were not accessible). They said send them back and fastest way to get new ones was to order a second set and wait for the refund on the first set. I order a second set $1000 and they agreed to pay $95 towards expidited shipping. I paid additional to overnight them. Should have gone out Monday. They shipped but supposedly the shipping dept screwed up and sent them ground. I get tracking info today and they now required a signature to deliver. First set did not.
I still haven't even gotten any refunds or even suggestions on what they'll do to try and make things right.
After almost a week of back and fourth, I finally got the shipping paid to return the first set.
Hopefully the new set will work when the arrive Friday.
The HID shit on my car is almost impossible to find replacements for and OEMs are $1500 each side. Halogens are a dime a dozen.
Do not buy from Vividracing.com or Anzo headlights.
I figured Id put this here.
I ordered replacement headlight for my 2012 Mustang. Ordered Anzo lights from Vivid Racing in AZ because they were supposed to be direct replacement for my HID lights. $1000 shipped and arrived with a defect from Anzo (wiring issue where conncetions were not accessible). They said send them back and fastest way to get new ones was to order a second set and wait for the refund on the first set. I order a second set $1000 and they agreed to pay $95 towards expidited shipping. I paid additional to overnight them. Should have gone out Monday. They shipped but supposedly the shipping dept screwed up and sent them ground. I get tracking info today and they now required a signature to deliver. First set did not.
I still haven't even gotten any refunds or even suggestions on what they'll do to try and make things right.
After almost a week of back and fourth, I finally got the shipping paid to return the first set.
Hopefully the new set will work when the arrive Friday.
The HID shit on my car is almost impossible to find replacements for and OEMs are $1500 each side. Halogens are a dime a dozen.
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Point is normal man can swing a GT6...how many millions is that, and would you drive it to the grocery storeFeast your eyes on the Alfa Romeo 33 Stradale
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I often do. Not in real life obviously, pictures are the best I can do. All Alfa's of the era are quite beautiful.Feast your eyes on the Alfa Romeo 33 Stradale
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Got tired of shopping the poor 15" tire selection. Then I got tired of looking for 16" 5x130 wheels that are lightweight. Adapters it is then. Paid an arm and a leg for custom hubcentric adapters and forgot to notice the giant OD of my bearing grease cap. Half an hour at my lathe buddies and it'll work.
Managed to get 16x8 wheels as light as my 15x8's. Adapters add weight, but I got lighter tires, so net neutral on weight, I'm fairly happy.
Managed to get 16x8 wheels as light as my 15x8's. Adapters add weight, but I got lighter tires, so net neutral on weight, I'm fairly happy.
Yeah, through Ford your headlights are on National Back Order anyway and @$1100 ea I’d went aftermarket myself!!!
people laugh at Lucus in English cars. People invent new cuss words for Spica fuel injection.
back when I was racing you could do wheel spacers, but they had to be tuv approved. Late 90's ordering stuff from Europe was much more difficult to do and they are very expensive.
I've seen some exploded diagrams of the Spica system. That was as close as I wanted to get to it. The only Alfa engine I've messed with was out of a 1960(?) Giulietta. Beautiful little engine, and pretty advanced for the time. All aluminum, twin cam, and thankfully still carbureted.
Speaking of that, went to look at a AW11 MR2 project car last weekend. As my wisdom increases with age, I spent quite a bit of time researching what problems to look for ahead of time, instead of jumping into the deep end head first like I used to. As you can imagine, rust is enemy #1. From the road the car looked tired. Up close it looked neglected. I took one look underneath it and saw more carpet than metal. No thanks, that's not the kind of project I want. Guy originally wanted $5k. Dropped to $3k a week later. Seeing it in person I'd give him $600 if he forced me to take it. Someday I'll have one. Maybe the most fantastic example of the origami inspired 80's Japanese styling that exists.
Alfa was never known for good engine designs lol. That 33 Stradale has a 2.0L flat plane crank V8 with a 10,000 rpm redline. I’m sure it was unreliable as hell but I bet it was absolutely glorious when it ran.
I've always heard generally good things about the Twin Spark and Busso engines?
I’m no expert I just know that a lot of people say owning any Alfa is for love, because logically you should never buy one.
That is the general consensus on them, but typically the looks and the engine are the star of the show. It seems like everything around the engine is likely to break or fall off.
That's my understanding at least, I've never owned one.
Considering looking at an Alfetta GT in the area though..
E46 M3 is the same thing. There are numerous big $ problems that turn them into rolling heaps of shit. But when they’re put together properly they are glorious
www.speedhunters.com
Watch This Road-Legal E46 M3 Attack The Nordschleife - Speedhunters
It’s a question that’s almost guaranteed to crop up when chatting to anyone who’s done more than a handful of laps of the Nürburgring Nordschleife. But whatever time you’ve completed the 12.9-mile (20.8km) circuit in, I dare say that it probably isn’t as fast as what you’re about to see This is...
www.speedhunters.com
The E36 M3 pioneered the use of recycled and biodegradable interior materials. Which sounds great till they start self recycling inside your otherwise mint car.
Probably a big contributing factor to a lot of decent cars turning into gutted POS drift missiles.
Those are actually the least of your problems. These are the four biggest, if I remember correctly
-Rear subframe mounts ripping apart from trunk floor panel
-SMG pump failures
-Connecting rod bearings
-VANOS system rebuilds
I recall the trunk floor tearing issue coming up a lot when I was tossing around the idea of E36 ownership. There are a bunch of braces and weld in panels the aftermarket has developed to help address it. IIRC in the later models BMW beefed up some sheetmetal back there too? But yeah, a very avoidable design flaw.
SMG pump though? Don't remember any E36's having an SMG.
I think the entire cooling system has to be replaced pretty regularly as well.
Here's an update on my fucked up situation with Vividracing and Anzo headlights.
I contacted vividracing. I ordered a second set of Anzo headlights but asked that they check that the wiring connections were accessible. I was told they were. They offered to pay most of the shipping but I paid extra for overnight. The fuckers sent them out ground.
The new set arrived yesterday. One light had wiring connections correct, one did not.
Fuck vividracing and anzo headlights. I found a different vendor that has some that are supposed to work. They arrive Tuesday.
I contacted vividracing. I ordered a second set of Anzo headlights but asked that they check that the wiring connections were accessible. I was told they were. They offered to pay most of the shipping but I paid extra for overnight. The fuckers sent them out ground.
The new set arrived yesterday. One light had wiring connections correct, one did not.
Fuck vividracing and anzo headlights. I found a different vendor that has some that are supposed to work. They arrive Tuesday.
Ordered some Advan GT Wheels from them in 2020 price was great but upon reading reviews had some concerns.
Took chance and ordered -- no issues product arrived, always thought I could use the credit card to lean on them if things went south. Before ordering had them check that they were in stock and ready to ship, one of the biggest complaints was taking peoples money and the product was not available for shipment. Regardless having all this expenditure of money and no product in hand would pisses me off.
I like the E30 of all those style, I had a super ETA, basically the high mpg version, but a head swap woul really wake trying up. As for more modern versions, I still lust for an M coupe. Not hard to figure out why.
I also had an E30 325e. I loved that car. The first car I owned that showed me the fun in driving a slow car fast. I ended up selling it when the rust got beyond what I could tackle and I've regretted it ever since.
Just recently saw an M Coupe in person for the first time. I've always been conflicted about the looks, but after seeing it in the flesh I quite like the clown shoe.
Saw an extremely clean E30 M3 single-owner car today at a local show. Dude wants like $140k for it. 
Not unheard of pricing but it better be an excellent specimen.Saw an extremely clean E30 M3 single-owner car today at a local show. Dude wants like $140k for it.
Saw an extremely clean E30 M3 single-owner car today at a local show. Dude wants like $140k for it.
If you really want one, and I mean really want one, snatch one quick. It won’t be long before shitbox versions command those prices.
I think I’d rather get a non-M E30 and go ham with it
Same. As cool as the M3 is, my mind equates BMW with straight six noises. A nice 325is would do the trick, make the right music and be a fifth of the price.
Nothing like getting 90% finished with a rear brake job on my wife’s car last night, and realizing I installed the wear sensor lead for the front brakes, LoL.
Similar, but yeah…different.
And lovely…one of the anti-vibration weights for one of the front pads was snapped off too…installed it anyway.
Did the brake fluid and air filter too, then reset all the service reminders (oil+ filter changed last weekend); cabin filters will get swapped out tonight when my wife gets home from work.
Similar, but yeah…different.
And lovely…one of the anti-vibration weights for one of the front pads was snapped off too…installed it anyway.
Did the brake fluid and air filter too, then reset all the service reminders (oil+ filter changed last weekend); cabin filters will get swapped out tonight when my wife gets home from work.
That is the worst feelingNothing like getting 90% finished with a rear brake job on my wife’s car last night, and realizing I installed the wear sensor lead for the front brakes, LoL.
Similar, but yeah…different.
And lovely…one of the anti-vibration weights for one of the front pads was snapped off too…installed it anyway.
Did the brake fluid and air filter too, then reset all the service reminders (oil+ filter changed last weekend); cabin filters will get swapped out tonight when my wife gets home from work.
I wouldn’t strictly say an I6 but definitely an n/an engine. The S14 sounds glorious at full throttle
69 fastback, 03 Mach 1. Some pics are old but Orange car has been in the family since 71, grandpop, then mom’s first car then uncles first car before it made its way to me. Looks good, original, slow as all hell. Blue car has a bunch of stuff done, basically stock long block though. Made 350/350 off the bottle, 460/557 On a 100 shot. Fun for what it is, someday I’ll put a blower or turbo on it.
Can’t tell from the pics but you didn’t cut out the hub centric aspect to get them to fit?
Didn't remove the hubcentric ring, just machined out the unnecessarily small ID of it. The inner hub bore is quite a bit bigger than the outer bore you see in the pics, and was untouched during machining, so both the adapter to hub (71.6mm) and wheel to adapter (73.1mm) are still hubcentric.
Talk to me about LS valvetrain stuff... I know quite a few of you are probably more experienced than I am...
Wracking my brain here for my road course LS build...
Originally was going to do Yella Terra roller rockers(just the basic 1.7 ratio model) and Johnson ST2116LSR link bar lifters. After a lot of research I think thats overkill for my setup. Im not going to be running an agressive cam or spring. Originally was wanting to possibly spin this motor to 8000, but with running the factory LS3 intake manifold(packaging constraints in a Miata), LS3 heads, and Gen 5 Camaro ZL1 exhaust manifolds(packaging constraints again), I dont think I will be making power much above mid-high 6000 range, so building for 8000rpm is silly and expensive.
With that in mind I think I have decided to do just a factory LS3 rocker arm with either the CHE or Manton trunnion bushing setup and either Johnson 2110R lifters in plastic trays with oil drain holes drilled OR still run the 2116LSR link bars. 2110R lifters are $766+$50 for lifter trays plus 10 bucks for bolts=$826. 2116LSR link bars are $850.... so a 25 dollar difference. I think the 2116LSR is just a 2110R setup as link bar. The ST2116LSR is the short travel... Those are like $25 more and might be worth it also, but then I go back to "im just using the factory rocker so how crazy do I need to get"...
Also planning to run 3/8 diameter .080 wall push rods to get something slightly stiffer in there vs. a 5/16, .080 wall. The other option is a .105 wall 5/16, but I think that restricts oil to the cylinder head more than I would want.
Wracking my brain here for my road course LS build...
Originally was going to do Yella Terra roller rockers(just the basic 1.7 ratio model) and Johnson ST2116LSR link bar lifters. After a lot of research I think thats overkill for my setup. Im not going to be running an agressive cam or spring. Originally was wanting to possibly spin this motor to 8000, but with running the factory LS3 intake manifold(packaging constraints in a Miata), LS3 heads, and Gen 5 Camaro ZL1 exhaust manifolds(packaging constraints again), I dont think I will be making power much above mid-high 6000 range, so building for 8000rpm is silly and expensive.
With that in mind I think I have decided to do just a factory LS3 rocker arm with either the CHE or Manton trunnion bushing setup and either Johnson 2110R lifters in plastic trays with oil drain holes drilled OR still run the 2116LSR link bars. 2110R lifters are $766+$50 for lifter trays plus 10 bucks for bolts=$826. 2116LSR link bars are $850.... so a 25 dollar difference. I think the 2116LSR is just a 2110R setup as link bar. The ST2116LSR is the short travel... Those are like $25 more and might be worth it also, but then I go back to "im just using the factory rocker so how crazy do I need to get"...
Also planning to run 3/8 diameter .080 wall push rods to get something slightly stiffer in there vs. a 5/16, .080 wall. The other option is a .105 wall 5/16, but I think that restricts oil to the cylinder head more than I would want.
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Bought this mall-cruising puddle-sniffer online for $3400 under KBB...
...had it delivered straight to the offroad shop for conversion into a badass backcountry brute.
It's taken me to some amazing places...while I love my diesel 4X4...my HD Road King is what I enjoy the most...and it's considerably faster.
Flies flags for the Patriot Guard Riders too.
...had it delivered straight to the offroad shop for conversion into a badass backcountry brute.
It's taken me to some amazing places...while I love my diesel 4X4...my HD Road King is what I enjoy the most...and it's considerably faster.
Flies flags for the Patriot Guard Riders too.
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What happens when you leave gas in a tank for 20 years......
The fuel sending unit.
Now a couple questions I am also asking on the Triumph forum.....with this kind of rust do you think it is worth trying any of the "rust remover" methods. Evaporust, electrolysis.....whatever. I think it is roughly a 10 gal tank, so 10 gal of evaporust is going to run close to 250, and who knows if I can get it all. Electrolysis, I have done it but not on anything this big, I think it would be next christmas before it is done. New tank and sender is 440 all in. I am thinking just do a new tank, kinda a no brainer.....but I always second guess myself.
The fuel sending unit.
Now a couple questions I am also asking on the Triumph forum.....with this kind of rust do you think it is worth trying any of the "rust remover" methods. Evaporust, electrolysis.....whatever. I think it is roughly a 10 gal tank, so 10 gal of evaporust is going to run close to 250, and who knows if I can get it all. Electrolysis, I have done it but not on anything this big, I think it would be next christmas before it is done. New tank and sender is 440 all in. I am thinking just do a new tank, kinda a no brainer.....but I always second guess myself.
If you don’t get any points or street cred from having as many original parts as possible just buy new shit
- Nov 3, 2010
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- 20,915
Hope it stays on the road for you, my 17 ram 1500 ecodiesel shit the bed at 58k, and my 22 gladiator ecodiesel started playing fuck around at 63k. Seems there are two camps with them, one runs forever and one dies before 100k. I guess I just got lucky! I did like both of them very much
Any one use the Hoosier Track Attack pro tires? I have only used R7s and A7s. I am looking for a tire that holds up on the track and can get more heat cycles out of them. Any info would be appreciated.
The website makes it look like they'll last longer than the R7. Being a 200tw "street" tire I wouldn't imagine them being as fast.
