Battle born grease for barrel threads for barrel imstall?

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JRBullock1987

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#1
I'm about to install a 6.5cm SS proof research prefit barrel on my Zermatt arms origin action and saw on proofs video on YouTube they use what looks like breakthrough battle born grease on the barrel thread when installing it. Is that grease ok to use instead of an anti seize. Or should I use a copper or silver or some other kimd of anti seize? Everyone seems to have a different opinion and I'm not sure what to use.
Thanks,
Justin
 
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#2
Maybe this just adds on emore option rather than reducing the ones you have but Jim Borden uses white lithium grease ( probably mixed with some moly d powder, but not sure) in his shop. You'll find it on YT. As you said to each his own out there...
 
#5
This, Arroshell 33, this is enough to last a lifetime:





IMG_4595.png
 
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#6
I just use grease or even oil on ar15 barrel nuts. The likleyhood of galling on those parts is magnitudes lower than screwing a strainless barrel into a stainless action. And the likleyhood they will corrode into a 1 peice assembly is much less also. The cost of destroying and ar15 receiver is much lower also.
 
#8
I use nickel anti-sieze when installing and switching barrels on my TL3 or Helix hybrid. Grease may or may not be problematic. I know a lot of guys grease their Lugs, but I have also seen greased Lugs that have supposedly been damaged from what appeared to be hydraulic pressure when the grease liquefied. I'm no tribologist so it may have been from something else. But I'd rather just use the nickel anti-sieze.
 
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#9
We use Lubriplate 1340a on threads, locking lugs and cocking cam surfaces. Pretty much everything does the job from high contact pressure, moly/sulfur grease to a light white lith grease. However the reason we use the 1340a and not some of the sticker, metal flake impregnated ones like Anti Seize is because of the mess the others make.

It's a really big pain to assemble a fresh rifle, use anti-seize and then get a pin head of the nickel stuff somewhere that's freshly cerakoted. Before you know it the brand new rifle looks like the tin man puked on it with the little dots of residue that happened because you didn't realize it was on your pinky when you picked something up and then it propagated all over before you catch it.

If that happens with 134a we just wipe it off with an alcohol swab and move along.
 
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#11
bohem said:
We use Lubriplate 134a on threads, locking lugs and cocking cam surfaces. Pretty much everything does the job from high contact pressure, moly/sulfur grease to a light white lith grease. However the reason we use the 134a and not some of the sticker, metal flake impregnated ones like Anti Seize is because of the mess the others make.

It's a really big pain to assemble a fresh rifle, use anti-seize and then get a pin head of the nickel stuff somewhere that's freshly cerakoted. Before you know it the brand new rifle looks like the tin man puked on it with the little dots of residue that happened because you didn't realize it was on your pinky when you picked something up and then it propagated all over before you catch it.

If that happens with 134a we just wipe it off with an alcohol swab and move along.
Click to expand...
Very true with anti-sieze...the smallest amount can make a mess when wiped. I will keep lubriplate in mind. Good information.
 
#13
bohem said:
We use Lubriplate 134a on threads, locking lugs and cocking cam surfaces. Pretty much everything does the job from high contact pressure, moly/sulfur grease to a light white lith grease. However the reason we use the 134a and not some of the sticker, metal flake impregnated ones like Anti Seize is because of the mess the others make.

It's a really big pain to assemble a fresh rifle, use anti-seize and then get a pin head of the nickel stuff somewhere that's freshly cerakoted. Before you know it the brand new rifle looks like the tin man puked on it with the little dots of residue that happened because you didn't realize it was on your pinky when you picked something up and then it propagated all over before you catch it.

If that happens with 134a we just wipe it off with an alcohol swab and move along.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the tip re anti seize making a mess. When you said lubriplate 134-A did you mean 130-A? I can’t seem to find 134-A even on their website. Looks like they also make a “SFL-0 gun grease” not sure what the difference is between the two.
 
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#14
WeR0206 said:
Thanks for the tip re anti seize making a mess. When you said lubriplate 134-A did you mean 130-A? I can’t seem to find 134-A even on their website. Looks like they also make a “SFL-0 gun grease” not sure what the difference is between the two.
Click to expand...
Yes, you're correct. I was working from memory, I should have walked across to the assembly area and double checked. Thanks for checking.
 
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#16
I have used 3 of the top contenders... Aeroshell 33, TW25B, and Loc-Tite C5-A Copper Anti-Sieze. All worked great.

The C5-A can be a damn mess if you're not careful, just a heads-up, but it's also the highest temp rated. Works awesome for AR-15 barrel extensions and barrel nuts, especially if you have full-auto lower, or plan on doing mag-dumps and getting that barrel REALLY hot.

For bolt-actions, I primarily use TW25B, since it has a very silky texture, and wipes up and cleans up easily if you put too much on the barrel threads, or after removing the barrel to clean it up for storage. Very easy cleanup.

I primarily use Aeroshell 33 for a regular routine-maintenance grease for lubricating moving parts in guns. Works awesome for both bolt-actions, and AR's, especially on bolts and BCG's. Put it on liberally, cycle the bolts a few times, wipe off the excess off the bolt body, and you're good to go.
 
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