Tikka actions

Pva solus barreled action available in every popular caliber in any length and contour you can want in a krg or mdt chassis with a 2 stage or single stage tt trigger........same price as a tikka sv in that chassis.

I was looking at a PVA barreled action Solus as a price point option for a NRL hunter setup. I think I'd rather have that over a tikka for range use, especially if a guy could get one in the light action. The flexibility of chambering/contour is definitely a benefit.

That said, I had a buddy with a just broken in tikka 24" CTR takeoff barrel avail for $170 and an unused KRG bravo for tikkas so I found a brand new 6.5 creed t3x lite for sale and bought it for a donor and I've got a barreled action with Trigger for about $800 that shoots as tight as I could ask of an aftermarket premium blank. I'm not losing on resale going this route by any stretch of the imagination. And when that barrel is done, I bet i can find another CTR take off for cheap.
 
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I was looking at a PVA barreled action Solus as a price point option for a NRL hunter setup. I think I'd rather have that over a tikka for range use, especially if a guy could get one in the light action. The flexibility of chambering/contour is definitely a benefit.

That said, I had a buddy with a just broken in tikka 24" CTR takeoff barrel avail for $170 and an unused KRG bravo for tikkas so I found a brand new 6.5 creed t3x lite for sale and bought it for a donor and I've got a barreled action with Trigger for about $800 that shoots as tight as I could ask of an aftermarket premium blank. I'm not losing on resale going this route by any stretch of the imagination. And when that barrel is done, I bet i can find another CTR take off for cheap.
Not a bad option and the skinny ctr barrel would help with nrl weight. It's a shame the 6.5creed tikka barrels are just slow. My aforementioned 260 mastersporter would send 142smk@2844 with 44.ish gr of h4350. I kinda wonder if their creed reamer is differnet or if they just use weird land and groove combo in it.
 
Not a bad option and the skinny ctr barrel would help with nrl weight. It's a shame the 6.5creed tikka barrels are just slow. My aforementioned 260 mastersporter would send 142smk@2844 with 44.ish gr of h4350. I kinda wonder if their creed reamer is differnet or if they just use weird land and groove combo in it.
How slow are we talking?
 
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Thought it was common knowledge that tikka 6.5creed barrels are slowpokes. I'd need to look at my notes, I did some load work for a buddys 24"6.5 ctr. I used 130normas and 6.5stabil, so it will be peppy compared to normal 140-147 loads.
 
Tikka barrels are slower than most other barrels with any given load. I think it’s because of the mile long freebore bleeding off pressure. The good news for the hand loader is that he can just add a bit of powder and get it all back. The saving grace for the factory ammo buyer is that a few extra clicks on the elevation turret is all it takes to hit the same targets as the Bartlien and Kreiger barreled rifles.

My 24” tikka ctr would shoot factory Hornady American Gunner at 2650fps. My 24” Bartlein barreled rifle would shoot the same ammo at 2725fps. The targets couldn’t tell them apart.
 
Only speed I have in my head is from a stock CTR ~24" doing 2730fps with Sako TRG 136gr ammo. Still have a few boxes of the same batch and would like to test in 22" and 26" Lothar Walther barrels in RS700 as well as a 22" carbon Proof T3 which are new.
edi
 
Thought it was common knowledge that tikka 6.5creed barrels are slowpokes. I'd need to look at my notes, I did some load work for a buddys 24"6.5 ctr. I used 130normas and 6.5stabil, so it will be peppy compared to normal 140-147 loads.
I knew this, but I was asking for numbers, for comparison to my numbers.

My CTR shoots AAC 140smk’s at around 2650.

Another guy and I were shooting prototype Tikkas at the gap grind with Sako TRG 136’s and my 24” SV was getting 2750-2800 depending on the temp.

My partners 26” SV with the same ammo was getting on avg 2700 for most of the weekend.

I’m not a hand loader so I was perplexed why he had 2” more barrel but was getting almost 100fps slower with the same lot of ammo. We had 600 ends of the same lot. Most SD’s were high teens.

Really made me rethink TRG ammo tbh.
 
I have two loads for my 24" CTR 6.5CM with both 123gr Scenars and 130gr ELDMs.
Both are 2800 for the slower node and 2950 for the faster one.
My 147gr ELDM load is doing 2680fps.

My 19" 260 CTR barrel is doing 2670fps with 140 ELDMS.

All with H4350 so could easily go faster with a different powder.
 
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I have two loads for my 24" CTR 6.5CM with both 123gr Scenars and 130gr ELDMs.
Both are 2800 for the slower node and 2950 for the faster one.
My 147gr ELDM load is doing 2680fps.

My 19" 260 CTR barrel is doing 2670fps with 140 ELDMS.

All with H4350 so could easily go faster with a different powder.
I’ve really considered hand loading but for as much as I shoot a season factory ammo is cheaper. But I was looking at either 135 or 153 Atips. But I don’t see a lot of people running either.
 
I’ve really considered hand loading but for as much as I shoot a season factory ammo is cheaper. But I was looking at either 135 or 153 Atips. But I don’t see a lot of people running either.
Ive never played with the Atips, I'd considered the 135s but the BC didn't seem to justify the cost.

During Covid I played around with a lot of different projectiles, the 123s and 130s both shot ok and I was looking for a bit less recoil.
My 147 ELDM load is stupid accurate and seems to hold better at distance, so that's mostly what I stuck with.
 
I have a 223 T3 lite also which was always really slow with factory ammo and lighter weight projectiles in handloads.

However I chopped the barrel to 18" and developed a load with 75gr BTHPs and 73gr ELDMS. The 75s are doing 2750fps and the 73s 2780fps which is pretty respectable from an 18" barrel.

They don't appear to be anywhere near max loads either.
 
Sorry to bring up the Solus again, but this has more to do with the 6.5CM portion of the conversation that this thread has migrated into, since the OP has disappeared now, and we're on to discussing different brand barrel speeds and 6.5CM loads.

I have 2 Solus builds with factory Aero/BA barrels in 6.5CM, and I do handload. One barrel is a 20", the other a 22". Both are 1:8 twist. They both absolutely love the same exact load, same seating depth, etc... Makes life really easy. Both chambers were measured out, and the only difference in them, is that one of them the OAL to the lands is 0.001" longer. They're so close, I can even swap brass between them if I wanted to...I don't, just saying that I tested it, and they both fit neck-sized fire-formed brass into each other's chamber without any issue. Which would help explain a portion of why they like the same load...Consistency in chamber cutting.

With Nosler 140 RDF's, 45.0gr Staball 6.5, Alpha Munitions brass, and CCI 400's. With the 20" barrel, i'm averaging 2,795 FPS MV. And with the 22", I'm averaging 2,834 FPS MV same day, same Garmin Xero, same exact location, never moved the chrono.

Both loads shoot like this...

image_cropper_6F9908FD-0B59-467C-ABEF-81B0F1658A83-15323-00000CF398D5C24D.jpegimage_cropper_A37B4D72-FBE0-4C20-9915-9CD8482862F6-15323-00000CF6782841B5.jpeg
 
Sorry to bring up the Solus again, but this has more to do with the 6.5CM portion of the conversation that this thread has migrated into, since the OP has disappeared now, and we're on to discussing different brand barrel speeds and 6.5CM loads.

I have 2 Solus builds with factory Aero/BA barrels in 6.5CM, and I do handload. One barrel is a 20", the other a 22". Both are 1:8 twist. They both absolutely love the same exact load, same seating depth, etc... Makes life really easy. Both chambers were measured out, and the only difference in them, is that one of them the OAL to the lands is 0.001" longer. They're so close, I can even swap brass between them if I wanted to...I don't, just saying that I tested it, and they both fit neck-sized fire-formed brass into each other's chamber without any issue. Which would help explain a portion of why they like the same load...Consistency in chamber cutting.

With Nosler 140 RDF's, 45.0gr Staball 6.5, Alpha Munitions brass, and CCI 400's. With the 20" barrel, i'm averaging 2,795 FPS MV. And with the 22", I'm averaging 2,834 FPS MV same day, same Garmin Xero, same exact location, never moved the chrono.

Both loads shoot like this...

View attachment 8576104View attachment 8576105
No one cares about your stupid Aero
 
You're still butthurt. I even stated this was about the 6.5CM loads and barrels, trying to join a civil discussion... Yet, you still want to whine and cry like a little bitch.
It’s always boomers like you who wanna call names behind the safety of your keyboard. Go take a blood pressure pill and maybe call your son that hasn’t talked to you in 15 years.
 
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You mean talking about Tikkas in a Tikka thread? Riiiight.
This isn't even your thread, yet, you've taken it over as it is, and made sure to include your butthurt and disdain for anything that isn't Tikka/Beretta. How sad you must be to attempt to be relevant. If you have to fight this hard and insult random people this much to make people think your products are superior, then they must not be able to stand on their own merit.
 
This isn't even your thread, yet, you've taken it over as it is, and made sure to include your butthurt and disdain for anything that isn't Tikka/Beretta. How sad you must be to attempt to be relevant. If you have to fight this hard and insult random people this much to make people think your products are superior, then they must not be able to stand on their own merit.
Literally what the fuck are you talking about? I’m in a Tikka thread talking about Tikkas and yet YOU constantly insert the fucking aero rifle in every single comment. Do I like the products my company sells? Yeah, otherwise I would t work there. I worked at Daniel Defense before Beretta and wouldn’t recommend a single product of theirs EXCEPT the Delta 5 bolt gun. But please tell me how I only like Tikka? I’ll reiterate my point, I’m in a tikka thread talking about tikkas with other people talking about tikkas. But I guess that makes me an insufferable fanboy for engaging in the conversation. You win buddy, obviously your ego is fragile you have to be the winner of an online argument. Have a merry Christmas and hopefully you get some humility under the tree this year.
 
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Literally what the fuck are you talking about? I’m in a Tikka thread talking about Tikkas and yet YOU constantly insert the fucking aero rifle in every single comment. Do I like the products my company sells? Yeah, otherwise I would t work there. I worked at Daniel Defense before Beretta and wouldn’t recommend a single product of theirs EXCEPT the Delta 5 bolt gun. But please tell me how I only like Tikka? I’ll reiterate my point, I’m in a tikka thread talking about tikkas with other people talking about tikkas. But I guess that makes me an insufferable fanboy for engaging in the conversation. You win buddy, obviously your ego is fragile you have to be the winner of an online argument. Have a merry Christmas and hopefully you get some humility under the tree this year.
No, I literally was talking about 6.5CM's, and the fact the only 2 that I own happen to both be Aero's is irrelevant to what I was trying to converse. Which I even stated. But you are the one who made it about Aero. I even stated in multiple comments that my comment had nothing to do with Aero, and had everything to do with 6.5CM (or whatever the discussion was at the time), yet you still decided to take it upon yourself to bitch and piss and moan in every comment you made.

Oh, and don't worry, everyone can see who has the fragile ego and immaturity... I've tried to have civil discussions this entire thread, you're the one who started the name calling, assumptions, personal attacks about fake scenarios that don't even exist, and getting massively upset at every post that isn't Tikka related. It's written in every post you've made. And no, I'm not trying to win anything, you quite obviously are, though.
 
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I’ve really considered hand loading but for as much as I shoot a season factory ammo is cheaper. But I was looking at either 135 or 153 Atips. But I don’t see a lot of people running either.
144 Bergers have done well for me.
 

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This is a Tikka thread and this guy with the dam Aero Solus again. Holy shit pops, read the room. We get it you like it, no one cares. Now back to Tikkas.

so Tikka has a long free bore. Nice to know.
Soooo, we got a few guys that need some decaf. Looking at you and fuhQ. In his defense he did say this was about 6.5creed and it was a data point, so lighten up a smidge. You are correct about a tikka thread and I apologize to OP for any derailment that I added. Hard rock, I do find it odd that tikka would use a fucky 6.5creed reamer. See that is why 6.5creed is a better package than 260. Factory support, factory ammo tailored around match bullets and heavier hunting bullets, and a standard optimized for factory ammo saami print reamer. Sure, there are a few different reamers with shorter freebore for lighter bullets, than some smiths use. I would really like to know what the hell tikka was thinking when they stretched out freebore on their 6.5creed reamer. All the different 6.5 creeds I've had were all within .005 same freebore(AI tooley/aina, aina, proof, savage, pva, rws, red beard, bugholes, and criterion)
 
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Precision long range light weight hunting rifle on a budget.
How does that old saying go…

“Pick 2 of those, because you can’t have all 3.”

Typically, lightweight and precision long range don’t go together, unless you’re referring to staying around 10-12 lbs. scoped with a suppressor, because it will need a stiff enough barrel and a large enough FFP (+18x) scope to be precise (1/2 MOA or better) at long distances. Thin (lightweight) barrels tend to get whippy and are generally less-accurate due to the lack of rigidity, compared to thicker barrels. This was one reason carbon-wrapped barrels became a thing. Thin steel barrel, wrapped thicker in lighter weight carbon fiber for increased rigidity, durability, more precision, more consistent cold bore shots and less POI shift from temp swings while shooting groups, and also better heat dissipation. It has other advantages, but it also isn’t an inexpensive option.

Lightweight and budget also don’t typically go together, but if you do find that, it’s a good chance it’s not LR ready.
 
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Precision long range light weight hunting rifle on a budget.
What magnum cartridge do you want to go with? If you are on a budget most people would stick to something like 6.5 Creedmoor.

Tikkas doesn't sell bare actions but you can always get a standard option and have bolt face opened and chamber recut. Or just get a prefit barrel and sell the factory one here.

If on a budget I'd just buy a 6.5CM CTR and shoot it as is if you are specifically wanting a Tikka.
 
Precision long range light weight hunting rifle on a budget.
I guess I'd need more of your definition of precision. I've seen pencil barrels on hunting rifles (one in my collection as well) shoot very well for a few rounds, then heat up so bad (along with inferior metallurgy) they became too inconsistent to hunt with ethically. You could also say 300 meters is 'long range' for your scenario as well. A precision rifle can be 'precise' for 10 rounds shot in a slow fire string, or 50 shot in a rapid fire string (straight pipe barrel)
If you give me some specific parameters I could better point you to a possible solution. A max budget (total w/ glass) would help me help you as well.
 
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As a reflexive budget shopper myself, a cheap budget is the most common way to spend a lot to put together a mediocre performing picky temperamental borderline POS as compared to any basic quality custom rifle. Anyone that cannot actually shoot well will probably never know it’s a bit of a POS. If you can, you will know.
 
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Sounds like a rifle that does everything....remember the old racing motto: fast, cheap, or quick service.....pick 2.
A Tikka CTR or Super Varmint is pretty much going to pretty much tick all the boxes, not the cheapest, lightest, or best at long range but wouldn't be far off.

I had a Tikka T3 lite in 260 for my first "PRS" rifle and it did surprisingly well, the barrel would hold a tight group even on long strings of fire (10-15 rounds). I then upgraded the stock to a CTR stock (for cheekpiece and magazines) then bought a 6.5CM 24" CTR and used that for many years.
A CTR + KRG Bravo has been the easy button for a cheap, good, accurate rifle for years.

Heck, even a Tikka roughtech (fluted D18 profile barrel) in 6.5 Creed or 6.5PRC would be fine for hunting, and general banging of steel.
Add a KRG Bravo or Echo, if wanting a better stock.
 
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A Tikka CTR or Super Varmint is pretty much going to pretty much tick all the boxes, not the cheapest, lightest, or best at long range but wouldn't be far off.

I had a Tikka T3 lite in 260 for my first "PRS" rifle and it did surprisingly well, the barrel would hold a tight group even on long strings of fire (10-15 rounds). I then upgraded the stock to a CTR stock (for cheekpiece and magazines) then bought a 6.5CM 24" CTR and used that for many years.
A CTR + KRG Bravo has been the easy button for a cheap, good, accurate rifle for years.

Heck, even a Tikka roughtech (fluted D18 profile barrel) in 6.5 Creed or 6.5PRC would be fine for hunting, and general banging of steel.
Add a KRG Bravo or Echo, if wanting a better stock.
Sure, a compromise is just that, a compromise. OP really didn't set much parameters of performance, just long range lightweight hunting target rifle and budget. Impact or origin with a proof carbon in a hunt26 stock would do all that easy, except budget. Without parameters, we're just tossing out ideas that may or may not be what he wants. Look, there's nothing wrong with a tikka factory rifle......I just don't know how much sense it makes to be starting from scratch, with the intention of a full custom build, and start with buying a stripped tikka action. If you had the action and stick, from a wore out rifle, cool. But really seems odd to buy a stripped tikka action, tikka prefit, tikka stock.....some will definitely be new price because the px isn't overflowing with used tikka stuff like rem700 parts. Honestly, besides AI, I haven't really been around a factory action that screams just as good as a custom action. I've made my choices, op can make his and I wish him well.
 
How does that old saying go…

“Pick 2 of those, because you can’t have all 3.”

Typically, lightweight and precision long range don’t go together, unless you’re referring to staying around 10-12 lbs. scoped with a suppressor, because it will need a stiff enough barrel and a large enough FFP (+18x) scope to be precise (1/2 MOA or better) at long distances. Thin (lightweight) barrels tend to get whippy and are generally less-accurate due to the lack of rigidity, compared to thicker barrels. This was one reason carbon-wrapped barrels became a thing. Thin steel barrel, wrapped thicker in lighter weight carbon fiber for increased rigidity, durability, more precision, more consistent cold bore shots and less POI shift from temp swings while shooting groups, and also better heat dissipation. It has other advantages, but it also isn’t an inexpensive option.

Lightweight and budget also don’t typically go together, but if you do find that, it’s a good chance it’s not LR ready.

Yeah, i dont buy it. Only deflection test ive heard of was from Alex wheeler and he didn't note any material difference in stiffness from carbon to a similar weight steel barrel.

Insulating steel doesn't help with heat dissipation.

POI change with heat seems to be most prevalent with poorly stress relieved barrels. Turning a blank down to a thin liner and then gluing some carbon on it that doesn't expand/contract the same with temp changes as steel seems like a good way to induce stresses.

In the end, i think a quality blank with quality machine work is probably going to shoot fine, hot or cold, steel or carbon, thick or thin. But Im not convinced you get shit except aesthetics and $300 less in your bank account with a carbon barrel.
 
Yeah, i dont buy it. Only deflection test ive heard of was from Alex wheeler and he didn't note any material difference in stiffness from carbon to a similar weight steel barrel.

Insulating steel doesn't help with heat dissipation.

POI change with heat seems to be most prevalent with poorly stress relieved barrels. Turning a blank down to a thin liner and then gluing some carbon on it that doesn't expand/contract the same with temp changes as steel seems like a good way to induce stresses.

In the end, i think a quality blank with quality machine work is probably going to shoot fine, hot or cold, steel or carbon, thick or thin. But Im not convinced you get shit except aesthetics and $300 less in your bank account with a carbon barrel.
You’re allowed to have your opinion.
 
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Yeah, i dont buy it. Only deflection test ive heard of was from Alex wheeler and he didn't note any material difference in stiffness from carbon to a similar weight steel barrel.

Insulating steel doesn't help with heat dissipation.

POI change with heat seems to be most prevalent with poorly stress relieved barrels. Turning a blank down to a thin liner and then gluing some carbon on it that doesn't expand/contract the same with temp changes as steel seems like a good way to induce stresses.

In the end, i think a quality blank with quality machine work is probably going to shoot fine, hot or cold, steel or carbon, thick or thin. But Im not convinced you get shit except aesthetics and $300 less in your bank account with a carbon barrel.
I've shot some really expensive german hammer forged barrels back in the early 90's in germany, and I'll be damned if those barrels poi never shifted during the 20 or so rounds we fired through those rifles in pretty decent succession. I dont quite remember but I think one was a heym and the other MAYBE a sauer? But man those barrels never walked during the entire box of ammo. I was blown away. Something with the way the germans made those barrels and their nice barrel steel just really round a nice combination. I'm not convinced those needlessly expensive 900 dollar proof carbons are worth more than 400 max. My pencil barreled tikka t3x shot just fine with no carbon fiber on it, even after heatin it up pretty good this summer.
 
I've shot some really expensive german hammer forged barrels back in the early 90's in germany, and I'll be damned if those barrels poi never shifted during the 20 or so rounds we fired through those rifles in pretty decent succession. I dont quite remember but I think one was a heym and the other MAYBE a sauer? But man those barrels never walked during the entire box of ammo. I was blown away. Something with the way the germans made those barrels and their nice barrel steel just really round a nice combination. I'm not convinced those needlessly expensive 900 dollar proof carbons are worth more than 400 max. My pencil barreled tikka t3x shot just fine with no carbon fiber on it, even after heatin it up pretty good this summer.

None of my sporter barrels have POI shift from heat and I typically shoot them until I'm fed up with the mirage. I'm convinced that the "pencil barrels walk when they heat up" issue is largely repeated dogma from a couple sources: 1- people who want to pretend their rifle is more accurate than it is by shooting 3 round groups "because their barrels open up if i shoot more than 3" and 2- shitty barrels that haven't been properly stress relieved.
 
Yeah, i dont buy it. Only deflection test ive heard of was from Alex wheeler and he didn't note any material difference in stiffness from carbon to a similar weight steel barrel.

Insulating steel doesn't help with heat dissipation.

POI change with heat seems to be most prevalent with poorly stress relieved barrels. Turning a blank down to a thin liner and then gluing some carbon on it that doesn't expand/contract the same with temp changes as steel seems like a good way to induce stresses.

In the end, i think a quality blank with quality machine work is probably going to shoot fine, hot or cold, steel or carbon, thick or thin. But Im not convinced you get shit except aesthetics and $300 less in your bank account with a carbon barrel.
I've shot some really expensive german hammer forged barrels back in the early 90's in germany, and I'll be damned if those barrels poi never shifted during the 20 or so rounds we fired through those rifles in pretty decent succession. I dont quite remember but I think one was a heym and the other MAYBE a sauer? But man those barrels never walked during the entire box of ammo. I was blown away. Something with the way the germans made those barrels and their nice barrel steel just really round a nice combination. I'm not convinced those needlessly expensive 900 dollar proof carbons are worth more than 400 max. My pencil barreled tikka t3x shot just fine with no carbon fiber on it, even after heatin it up pretty good this summer.
None of my sporter barrels have POI shift from heat and I typically shoot them until I'm fed up with the mirage. I'm convinced that the "pencil barrels walk when they heat up" issue is largely repeated dogma from a couple sources: 1- people who want to pretend their rifle is more accurate than it is by shooting 3 round groups "because their barrels open up if i shoot more than 3" and 2- shitty barrels that haven't been properly stress relieved.
Well... There is a reason why sniper rifles, precision rifles, competition rifles, and LR hunting rifles have always had heavy profile "bull" barrels... Just saying... There has to be some sort of method behind the madness.

Plus, the added weight, also helps plant your rifle by keeping it steady from being susceptible to small movements while your trying to stay on target at longer ranges where everything is much smaller through the scope, and the slightest movement at the wrong time can mean the difference between eating dinner, or going hungry.
 
What magnum cartridge do you want to go with? If you are on a budget most people would stick to something like 6.5 Creedmoor.

Tikkas doesn't sell bare actions but you can always get a standard option and have bolt face opened and chamber recut. Or just get a prefit barrel and sell the factory one here.

If on a budget I'd just buy a 6.5CM CTR and shoot it as is if you are specifically wanting a

What magnum cartridge do you want to go with? If you are on a budget most people would stick to something like 6.5 Creedmoor.

Tikkas doesn't sell bare actions but you can always get a standard option and have bolt face opened and chamber recut. Or just get a prefit barrel and sell the factory one here.

If on a budget I'd just buy a 6.5CM CTR and shoot it as is if you are specifically wanting a Tikka.
I want 300wsm , want a better than average but don’t need PRS hunting rifle, 7.5-8.5 lbs.
I have a custom 6.5 PRC already. TL3 action, Mullerworks carbon barrel, AG Composite carbon fiber stock.its about 12lbs with glass. It’s a tack driver and fun to shoot, but it going to lighten next rifle.
Thinking of going with tikka action, Mullerworks, rock creek, or bartlain barrel, not sure if I want carbon or fluted m24 barrel. I have a model 70 300wsm but not thrilled with there “90s” actions when there were in financial troubles.
Still want to have fun with it off the bench and reloads,but a serious hunting rifle too.