Rust and BT Eliminator/Carbon Remover

m1match

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In this megathread, @Frank Green talked a little about having his barrels coming back for issues where BT products might have something to do with it.


Well I did have an issue with BT Eliminator and Carbon Remover that had to do with fumigation, high heat and humidity. I live in SoCal where humidity is not an issue. All of my rifles are in safes with Goldenrod dehumidifiers in them and I have had no corrosion issues in any of my guns in the 40 years that I've been an avid shooter... up until now which came from what I think are unusual conditions for me.

To start, let me say I have been using BT Eliminator and Carbon Remover almost exclusively for my precision rifles for probably 10 years with identical cleaning technique. I clean according to the directions on the bottle, then I use 2 patches to dry the bores and then put them back in the safe. Never had an issue with corrosion or anything else. I like and still use BT products because they work well, they are not toxic like most of the other bore cleaning products, and they are easily available.

I had a safe full of rifles and I only found minor rust in 3 of them which all had 416R stainless barrels and all had been very recently cleaned with BT Eliminator and Carbon Remover. I followed the directions for use on the bottle exactly and when I was finished used two clean patches to dry the bores. The rifles were a PVA barreled 223 on a Rock Creek blank, a Bartlein barreled 300 Norma, and a LRI barreled 308. I shot and cleaned these rifles and put them back in the safe after wiping the bores with two clean patches. A few days after cleaning the bores, my house was tented and fumigated for termites using Sulfuryl fluoride gas which all termite fumigators used ahd have been using since the 1950s. The tent developed a leak in it and they had to fix the leak and pump in more gas, so the house was sealed up and gassed for about 5 days in the summer and it got very warm and very humid in the house during this time.

After the fumigation I put a borescope in my rifles to double check, and to my dismay, there was rust in the bores of the 3 previously mentioned rifles, which were also the only three rifles that had been recently cleaned. I had 1911s, ARs and bolt guns that had dirty bores that had no signs of rust. I patched out the bores with Eezox which removed the surface rust and hopefully stopped further corrosion. I've since shot all 3 of these rifles and they still shoot excellent to outstanding groups. So I don't think the corrosion caused a noticeable problem.

In the future, if a rifle is going to be in the safe for a while before the next shooting session, I'm going to finish cleaning with a patch of Eezox or Hoppe's just to make sure I don't have rusted bores in the future. As Frank said, BT is like 90% plus water so I can only conclude that the residual in the bore plus high temperature and humidity and fumigation gas caused the light rust that I found. I also had some small patches of rust on bare steel like on some tools, saw blades, reloading dies ( exterior only I found no rust on the insides of my reloading dies).
 
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In this megathread, Frank Green talks a little about having his barrels coming back for issues where BT products might have something to do with it.


Well I did have an issue with BT Eliminator and Carbon Remover that had to do with fumigation, high heat and humidity. I live in SoCal where humidity is not an issue. All of my rifles are in safes with Goldenrod dehumidifiers in them and I have had no corrosion issues in any of my guns in the 40 years that I've been an avid shooter... up until now which came from what I think are unusual conditions for me.

To start, let me say I have been using BT Eliminator and Carbon Remover almost exclusively for my precision rifles for probably 10 years with identical cleaning technique. I clean according to the directions on the bottle, then I use 2 patches to dry the bores and then put them back in the safe. Never had an issue with corrosion or anything else. I like and still use BT products because they work well, they are not toxic like most of the other bore cleaning products, and they are easily available.

I had a safe full of rifles and I only found minor rust in 3 of them which all had 416R stainless barrels and all had been very recently cleaned with BT Eliminator and Carbon Remover. I followed the directions for use on the bottle exactly and when I was finished used two clean patches to dry the bores. The rifles were a PVA barreled 223 on a Rock Creek blank, a Bartlein barreled 300 Norma, and a LRI barreled 308. I shot and cleaned these rifles and put them back in the safe after wiping the bores with two clean patches. A few days after cleaning the bores, my house was tented and fumigated for termites using Sulfuryl fluoride gas which all termite fumigators used ahd have been using since the 1950s. The tent developed a leak in it and they had to fix the leak and pump in more gas, so the house was sealed up and gassed for about 5 days in the summer and it got very warm and very humid in the house during this time.

After the fumigation I put a borescope in my rifles to double check, and to my dismay, there was rust in the bores of the 3 previously mentioned rifles, which were also the only three rifles that had been recently cleaned. I had 1911s, ARs and bolt guns that had dirty bores that had no signs of rust. I patched out the bores with Eezox which removed the surface rust and hopefully stopped further corrosion. I've since shot all 3 of these rifles and they still shoot excellent to outstanding groups. So I don't think the corrosion caused a noticeable problem.

In the future, if a rifle is going to be in the safe for a while before the next shooting session, I'm going to finish cleaning with a patch of Eezox or Hoppe's just to make sure I don't have rusted bores in the future. As Frank said, BT is like 90% plus water so I can only conclude that the residual in the bore plus high temperature and humidity and fumigation gas caused the light rust that I found. I also had some small patches of rust on bare steel like on some tools, saw blades, reloading dies ( exterior only I found no rust on the insides of my reloading dies).

Interesting.

I have read Franks comments on this issue and it made me think. I use BT products and have had zero problems. I live in a climate where the air is dry so that would help avoid issues.

Since reading about this I now finish with a patch of G96 CLP. I figure the chances of it reacting with the BT products (or indeed any type of cleaning products) is pretty low (something else I have read Franks comments on), the CLP should help protect against rust or similar.
 
In this megathread, @Frank Green talked a little about having his barrels coming back for issues where BT products might have something to do with it.


Well I did have an issue with BT Eliminator and Carbon Remover that had to do with fumigation, high heat and humidity. I live in SoCal where humidity is not an issue. All of my rifles are in safes with Goldenrod dehumidifiers in them and I have had no corrosion issues in any of my guns in the 40 years that I've been an avid shooter... up until now which came from what I think are unusual conditions for me.

To start, let me say I have been using BT Eliminator and Carbon Remover almost exclusively for my precision rifles for probably 10 years with identical cleaning technique. I clean according to the directions on the bottle, then I use 2 patches to dry the bores and then put them back in the safe. Never had an issue with corrosion or anything else. I like and still use BT products because they work well, they are not toxic like most of the other bore cleaning products, and they are easily available.

I had a safe full of rifles and I only found minor rust in 3 of them which all had 416R stainless barrels and all had been very recently cleaned with BT Eliminator and Carbon Remover. I followed the directions for use on the bottle exactly and when I was finished used two clean patches to dry the bores. The rifles were a PVA barreled 223 on a Rock Creek blank, a Bartlein barreled 300 Norma, and a LRI barreled 308. I shot and cleaned these rifles and put them back in the safe after wiping the bores with two clean patches. A few days after cleaning the bores, my house was tented and fumigated for termites using Sulfuryl fluoride gas which all termite fumigators used ahd have been using since the 1950s. The tent developed a leak in it and they had to fix the leak and pump in more gas, so the house was sealed up and gassed for about 5 days in the summer and it got very warm and very humid in the house during this time.

After the fumigation I put a borescope in my rifles to double check, and to my dismay, there was rust in the bores of the 3 previously mentioned rifles, which were also the only three rifles that had been recently cleaned. I had 1911s, ARs and bolt guns that had dirty bores that had no signs of rust. I patched out the bores with Eezox which removed the surface rust and hopefully stopped further corrosion. I've since shot all 3 of these rifles and they still shoot excellent to outstanding groups. So I don't think the corrosion caused a noticeable problem.

In the future, if a rifle is going to be in the safe for a while before the next shooting session, I'm going to finish cleaning with a patch of Eezox or Hoppe's just to make sure I don't have rusted bores in the future. As Frank said, BT is like 90% plus water so I can only conclude that the residual in the bore plus high temperature and humidity and fumigation gas caused the light rust that I found. I also had some small patches of rust on bare steel like on some tools, saw blades, reloading dies ( exterior only I found no rust on the insides of my reloading dies).

Interesting.

I have read Franks comments on this issue and it made me think. I use BT products and have had zero problems. I live in a climate where the air is dry so that would help avoid issues.

Since reading about this I now finish with a patch of G96 CLP. I figure the chances of it reacting with the BT products (or indeed any type of cleaning products) is pretty low (something else I have read Franks comments on), the CLP should help protect against rust or similar.
Yes I would definitely thoroughly dry patch it out and use some oil/CLP after cleaning with a mostly water based solvent like bore tech. After using any water based solvent and before applying oil I would also run a few wet patches of 91% iso alcohol as it will draw out and evaporate any residual water. Then do a dry patch then a light patch of oil/CLP (mineral oil, clenzoil, and lucas extreme CLP have shown good rust protection in tests), then dry patch before shooting

For the record here’s the safety data sheets for cu+2, c4, and eliminator and yes they are all about 70-90% water. Eliminator is actually only three ingredients (monoethanolamine, propylene glycol, and distilled water) so you could possibly even make your own home brew if you wanted to save some $$$, just make sure to use distilled water (free of minerals etc) instead of tap water.

Bore Tech Cu+2 Copper Remover Ingredients
Bore Tech C4 Ingredients
Bore Tech Eliminator Ingredients:
  • Monoethanolamine (polar solvent/copper remover and corrosion inhibitor)
  • Propylene glycol (polar solvent and corrosion inhibitor)
  • Water (polar solvent)
 
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After cleaning with boretech, I always spray non chlorinated brake parts cleaner down bore and chamber, then 2 dry patches, then 1 oiled patch. Been using boretech for 15ish yrs and haven't had a problem. I live in so-il, so humidity is somewhat a concern.
 
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ak owners drill .....dip 50 year old bronze/copper/brass /dirty/linty/worn out brush into # 9 and a few strokes then without changing brush put a patch through until clean enough then a little whatever oil on last patch in bore ,rip patch off . Look at FCG/carrier maybe clean if it looks like a chia pet , note 70 year old automotive white grease applied last year is ok on rails , load fresh 30 rounder and return ak to closet guard duty . dear fearless leader approves
 
In this megathread, @Frank Green talked a little about having his barrels coming back for issues where BT products might have something to do with it.


Well I did have an issue with BT Eliminator and Carbon Remover that had to do with fumigation, high heat and humidity. I live in SoCal where humidity is not an issue. All of my rifles are in safes with Goldenrod dehumidifiers in them and I have had no corrosion issues in any of my guns in the 40 years that I've been an avid shooter... up until now which came from what I think are unusual conditions for me.

To start, let me say I have been using BT Eliminator and Carbon Remover almost exclusively for my precision rifles for probably 10 years with identical cleaning technique. I clean according to the directions on the bottle, then I use 2 patches to dry the bores and then put them back in the safe. Never had an issue with corrosion or anything else. I like and still use BT products because they work well, they are not toxic like most of the other bore cleaning products, and they are easily available.

I had a safe full of rifles and I only found minor rust in 3 of them which all had 416R stainless barrels and all had been very recently cleaned with BT Eliminator and Carbon Remover. I followed the directions for use on the bottle exactly and when I was finished used two clean patches to dry the bores. The rifles were a PVA barreled 223 on a Rock Creek blank, a Bartlein barreled 300 Norma, and a LRI barreled 308. I shot and cleaned these rifles and put them back in the safe after wiping the bores with two clean patches. A few days after cleaning the bores, my house was tented and fumigated for termites using Sulfuryl fluoride gas which all termite fumigators used ahd have been using since the 1950s. The tent developed a leak in it and they had to fix the leak and pump in more gas, so the house was sealed up and gassed for about 5 days in the summer and it got very warm and very humid in the house during this time.

After the fumigation I put a borescope in my rifles to double check, and to my dismay, there was rust in the bores of the 3 previously mentioned rifles, which were also the only three rifles that had been recently cleaned. I had 1911s, ARs and bolt guns that had dirty bores that had no signs of rust. I patched out the bores with Eezox which removed the surface rust and hopefully stopped further corrosion. I've since shot all 3 of these rifles and they still shoot excellent to outstanding groups. So I don't think the corrosion caused a noticeable problem.

In the future, if a rifle is going to be in the safe for a while before the next shooting session, I'm going to finish cleaning with a patch of Eezox or Hoppe's just to make sure I don't have rusted bores in the future. As Frank said, BT is like 90% plus water so I can only conclude that the residual in the bore plus high temperature and humidity and fumigation gas caused the light rust that I found. I also had some small patches of rust on bare steel like on some tools, saw blades, reloading dies ( exterior only I found no rust on the insides of my reloading dies).
Two things occur to me:

1. I think the fumigation absolutely needs to be take into account when looking for source of corrosion
2. Two patches and call it good? Wow, I never get all of the solvent out with just 2 patches...I'm more like 10 and I keep patching until the patch comes out dry and clean....but yes, I'm anal! haha

I live in Maryland which really is "the swamp". I keep a golden rod in the safe and have for decades. I use BT products incl even plugging the bore and filling a barrel with it and leave it there for a couple of day.

I've not had a single bit of corrosion on my SS barrels.

YMMV but I'm sticking with BoreTech

Yes I would definitely thoroughly dry patch it out and use some oil/CLP after cleaning with a mostly water based solvent like bore tech. After using any water based solvent and before applying oil I would also run a few wet patches of 91% iso alcohol as it will draw out and evaporate any residual water. Then do a dry patch then a light patch of oil/CLP (mineral oil, clenzoil, and lucas extreme CLP have shown good rust protection in tests), then dry patch before shooting

For the record here’s the safety data sheets for cu+2, c4, and eliminator and yes they are all about 70-90% water. Eliminator is actually only three ingredients (monoethanolamine, propylene glycol, and distilled water) so you could possibly even make your own home brew if you wanted to save some $$$, just make sure to use distilled water (free of minerals etc) instead of tap water.

Bore Tech Cu+2 Copper Remover Ingredients
Bore Tech C4 Ingredients
Bore Tech Eliminator Ingredients:
  • Monoethanolamine (polar solvent/copper remover and corrosion inhibitor)
  • Propylene glycol (polar solvent and corrosion inhibitor)
  • Water (polar solvent)
Very interesting...I had presumed that the three products all contained the same ingredients but just in diff percentage. But clearly not.

I find even their carbon remover gets out copper....I fill my suppressor with carbon remover and let it sit for a day or so then flush out. The BT product gets carbon out great but also comes out blue from removing copper laid in there as (I presume) a condensate.

But, the two of them do share one ingredient (Diethylene Glycol Monobutyl Ether) so maybe that's it. Dunno...stuff works and I'll keep on using it.
 
I always use a lightly oiled patch with clp in my barrels before storage. Even the stainless ones. I just make sure to swab them dry before going to the range. Sorry to hear you had that happen OP.
 
Two things occur to me:

1. I think the fumigation absolutely needs to be take into account when looking for source of corrosion
2. Two patches and call it good? Wow, I never get all of the solvent out with just 2 patches...I'm more like 10 and I keep patching until the patch comes out dry and clean....but yes, I'm anal! haha

I live in Maryland which really is "the swamp". I keep a golden rod in the safe and have for decades. I use BT products incl even plugging the bore and filling a barrel with it and leave it there for a couple of day.

I've not had a single bit of corrosion on my SS barrels.

YMMV but I'm sticking with BoreTech


Very interesting...I had presumed that the three products all contained the same ingredients but just in diff percentage. But clearly not.

I find even their carbon remover gets out copper....I fill my suppressor with carbon remover and let it sit for a day or so then flush out. The BT product gets carbon out great but also comes out blue from removing copper laid in there as (I presume) a condensate.

But, the two of them do share one ingredient (Diethylene Glycol Monobutyl Ether) so maybe that's it. Dunno...stuff works and I'll keep on using it.
It's definitely way more pleasant to use the eliminator (a copper chelator) to get rid of copper. For these less toxic/caustic copper removal/chelators (like BT Eliminator) they seem to use amino alcohols (Monoethanolamine, etc.) which are safer/easier to work with.
 
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It's definitely way more pleasant to use the Ammonia to get rid of copper. For these less toxic/caustic copper removal/chelators (like BT Eliminator) they seem to use amino alcohols (Monoethanolamine, etc.)
Then you go and use ammonia. I’m never putting an ammonia based copper solvent in my barrels again. Other products work sufficiently well without any risk of pitting.

To each their own. (y)
 
I live in the same area and also had the house fumigated about a month ago. Corrosion was something I was worried about and I haven't seen anything on the outside of my firearms. I didn't clean my bolt gun after shooting it last so I should scope the bore on that. I just got some c4 to try out. I will definitely be using clp in the bore after cleaning.
 
Then you go and use ammonia. I’m never putting an ammonia based copper solvent in my barrels again. Other products work sufficiently well without any risk of pitting.

To each their own. (y)
Im with you on not wanting to use ammonia, sorry that was a typo on my part. I typed “ammonia” instead of eliminator. I will edit my post for clarity. BT seems to use amino alcohols to chelate/remove copper and possibly act as a protectant. These are way safer and more pleasant to work with than ammonia hydroxide etc which is super toxic and extremely aggressive.
 
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I've used various bore chemicals through the years to include the ammonia based copper removers. Never had any issues but I never allow any of those chemicals to soak more than 10 minutes.

No matter which chemicals I use to remove carbon and copper, after dry patching until I get clean patches, I rinse the bore with Naphtha (Zippo Lighter fluid is primarily but you can buy it by the gallon at the hardware store) patches. I use several wet patches followed with several dry patches. I then use a petroleum based oil for several patches in the bore and then use that same oil on the rest of the firearm. I don't think I've ever counted how many patches I use, maybe I'll pay attention. They are cheap enough and to be treated as disposable rags. I have been using the stuff from Southern Bloomer for many, many years.

Along with dehumidifier rods, I also rotate Bullfrog Rust Emitters every 6 months. I use them in the safes for 6 months and then they go to the tool boxes for 6 months and then they get tossed.

When I pull a firearm from the safe, I use an oil patch in the bore followed with several Naphtha patches and a couple of dry patches. Then I wipe the rest of the firearm down with a clean, dry cloth before I load it.

Realize that there are thousands of rifles around the world that get cleaned with diesel fuel siphoned from a truck, lubricated with oil from the dipstick and grease from the ball joints that work just fine.
 
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I've used various bore chemicals through the years to include the ammonia based copper removers. Never had any issues but I never allow any of those chemicals to soak more than 10 minutes.

No matter which chemicals I use to remove carbon and copper, after dry patching until I get clean patches, I rinse the bore with Naphtha (Zippo Lighter fluid is primarily but you can buy it by the gallon at the hardware store) patches. I use several wet patches followed with several dry patches. I then use a petroleum based oil for several patches in the bore and then use that same oil on the rest of the firearm. I don't think I've ever counted how many patches I use, maybe I'll pay attention. They are cheap enough and to be treated as disposable rags. I have been using the stuff from Southern Bloomer for many, many years.

Along with dehumidifier rods, I also rotate Bullfrog Rust Emitters every 6 months. I use them in the safes for 6 months and then they go to the tool boxes for 6 months and then they get tossed.

When I pull a firearm from the safe, I use an oil patch in the bore followed with several Naphtha patches and a couple of dry patches. Then I wipe the rest of the firearm down with a clean, dry cloth before I load it.

Realize that there are thousands of rifles around the world that get cleaned with diesel fuel siphoned from a truck, lubricated with oil from the dipstick and grease from the ball joints that work just fine.
Everything you laid out here makes sense. Naptha is an excellent solvent. Guns/bores seem to like the petroleum distillate based solvents (mineral spirits, kerosene, diesel, etc) and oils
 
I posted this there. I use solvent, dry patches and bore conditioner after c4.
IMG_6443.jpeg
42532190-4837-4E95-9DF5-B1E1B9F68B6E.jpeg
 
I posted this there. I use solvent, dry patches and bore conditioner after c4.View attachment 8584772View attachment 8584774
Good move patching out with a solvent/degreaser after using bore tech since BT has so much water content. I’m sure you’re probably already doing this but make sure to have good ventilation/gloves and avoid open flames when using KG3. Looks like its mostly Hexane which is a very powerful nonpolar solvent in the same family as mineral spirits/kerosene (aliphatic solvents) but is extremely flammable/toxic and way stronger than mineral spirits.


Looks like the bore conditioner is made mainly from some c14 to c20 aliphatic solvents and mineral oil (the solvents will distribute the oil then evaporate off after a few mins leaving a nice coat of oil on the bore to act as moisture barrier). This looks solid.

 
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Good move patching out with a solvent/degreaser after using bore tech since BT has so much water content. I’m sure you’re probably already doing this but make sure to have good ventilation/gloves and avoid open flames when using KG3. Looks like its mostly Hexane which is a very powerful nonpolar solvent in the same family as mineral spirits/kerosene (aliphatic solvents) but is extremely flammable/toxic and way stronger than mineral spirits.


Looks like the bore conditioner is made mainly from some c14 to c20 aliphatic solvents and mineral oil (the solvents will distribute the oil then evaporate off after a few mins leaving a nice coat of oil on the bore to act as moisture barrier). This looks solid.

ugh I had thought KG3 to be somewhat benign because of the low smell. I clean in my den. Guess I need a safer alternative.
 
ugh I had thought KG3 to be somewhat benign because of the low smell. I clean in my den. Guess I need a safer alternative.
Yeah its sneaky bc of the low smell. Its probably fine to use it once in a while if you’re in a hurry and don’t want to wait for a weaker solvent to soak for a few hrs/overnight. Hexane is so aggressive it probably only needs to soak for like 5 mins before it all evaporates.

If not in a hurry instead of the hexane you can try Naphthalene (stronger than mineral spirits but weaker than hexane), Varsol solvent (very pure mineral spirits), lab grade mineral spirits, Klean Heat Kerosene Alternative (mineral spirits with a little bit of trimethylbenzene, see HERE for MSDS).

If you need something to remove traces of bore tech/water before applying oil you can run a few patches of 91% Iso Alcohol or a 50/50 blend of 91% iso alcohol and denatured ethanol. Then dry patch and apply oil
 
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Yeah its sneaky bc of the low smell. Its probably fine to use it once in a while if you’re in a hurry and don’t want to wait for a weaker solvent to soak for a few hrs/overnight. Hexane is so aggressive it probably only needs to soak for like 5 mins before it all evaporates.

If not in a hurry instead of the hexane you can try Naphthalene (stronger than mineral spirits but weaker than hexane), Varsol solvent (very pure mineral spirits), lab grade mineral spirits, Klean Heat Kerosene Alternative (mineral spirits with a little bit of trimethylbenzene, see HERE for MSDS).

If you need something to remove traces of bore tech/water before applying oil you can run a few patches of 91% Iso Alcohol or a 50/50 blend of 91% iso alcohol and denatured ethanol. Then dry patch and apply oil
I can’t take denatured alcohol inside. I use 90% iso on the 3d printer all the time but isn’t that other 10% water?
 
I can’t take denatured alcohol inside. I use 90% iso on the 3d printer all the time but isn’t that other 10% water?
Yes but that 10% will get evaporated off with the iso. The 10% amount of water actually lets the iso stay on the surface for a little longer to do it’s thing before evaporating vs 99% iso. Side note People use denatured alcohol (mixed with water) as a general purpose house cleaner/disinfectant all the time. Its 90+% booze (ethanol) cut with a small amount of Iso and methanol (making it undrinkable).

As a bore flush You could also use VM&P naphthalene in lieu of the hexane or denatured ethanol or ISO. Its stronger than iso/ethanol but weaker than Hexane and less flammable. VM&P Naphtha has a more pleasant odor than regular naphtha (moth balls smell). You'd need good ventilation before working with any of these chemicals bc its not good to breathe the vapors from any of them for extended periods of time.

With that in mind Another way less toxic solvent Ive been experimenting with is d-limonene from citrus oil. Like all solvents its Fumes are flammable but way less toxic to breathe than vapors from petroleum distillates. It doesn’t seem to work as well as the petroleum based products though.
 
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As a bore flush You could also use naphthalene in lieu of the hexane or denatured ethanol or ISO.
Zippo lighter fluid?

I do have an air purifier in that area that I crank up and I use the solvents very sparingly. Used pellets and patches get put into a sealed container immediately. Then to the outside trash can. I always wear gloves.


This is one of the huge problems with cleaning too much. Folks don’t often talk about the chemical exposure every time you do it. In urban areas we can’t just set up outside.
 
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Im with you on not wanting to use ammonia, sorry that was a typo on my part. I typed “ammonia” instead of eliminator. I will edit my post for clarity. BT seems to use amino alcohols to chelate/remove copper and possibly act as a protectant. These are way safer and more pleasant to work with than ammonia hydroxide etc which is super toxic and extremely aggressive.
lol...typos happen. Cheers
 
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According to that test, Hornady One Shot is one of the better performers for rust prevention.

I've used Hornady One Shot to clean the BCG on my ARs and it does a pretty good job. Stubborn carbon still requires something like BT C4 to get it off the tail of the bolt.

I've also used it in the barrel to flush out other cleaners. But I've always been concerned about how thick of a layer the dry lube will leave on the interior of a barrel, even after a few dry patches.

According to the MSDS it main component is N-HEXANE

https://static.hornady.media/presscenter/docs/1410997962-One-Shot-Gun-Cleaner---Dry-Lube.pdf

1736179810918.png
 
Zippo lighter fluid?

I do have an air purifier in that area that I crank up and I use the solvents very sparingly. Used pellets and patches get put into a sealed container immediately. Then to the outside trash can. I always wear gloves.


This is one of the huge problems with cleaning too much. Folks don’t often talk about the chemical exposure every time you do it. In urban areas we can’t just set up outside.
Screenshot 2025-01-06 at 10.42.59.png

I've used Naphtha for decades. I'm basically still using the same process taught to me by my Great Grandfather.
 
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Zippo lighter fluid?

I do have an air purifier in that area that I crank up and I use the solvents very sparingly. Used pellets and patches get put into a sealed container immediately. Then to the outside trash can. I always wear gloves.


This is one of the huge problems with cleaning too much. Folks don’t often talk about the chemical exposure every time you do it. In urban areas we can’t just set up outside.
Good move on the filter or even a small fan would be good just to keep the air moving if folks don't have a filter.

Yes it's essentially lighter fluid but the kind I'd recommend is VM&P naphtha which is slightly different than raw naphtha (which has a strong moth ball odor) so it doesn't have as strong of a smell.

Something like this:
 
lol...typos happen. Cheers
Too damn often in my case. I seem to have two sides of my brain. One that is a poor speller and the other that is an horrible speller but the creative writing side.

I write with the creative side. Then go back over with the poor speller and spell-checker and say “WTF?? who wrote this a 5 year old?”
 
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Too damn often in my case. I seem to have two sides of my brain. One that is a poor speller and the other that is an horrible speller but the creative writing side.

I write with the creative side. Then go back over with the poor speller and spell-checker and say “WTF?? who wrote this a 5 year old?”
Haha I'm pretty much the same way...absolutely horrible at spelling and usually need 1 or 2 rounds of looking things over if it's important. Thank God for spell check!

The other thing I forgot to mention directly but we sort of touched on it is your location that you use the solvents, etc. will be the first thing that dictates how aggressive/flammable a solvent you can use. I live in a townhouse with limited space and can't really go outside. In my case for example my reloading/gun working desk is in the garage right NEXT to our gas powered hot water tank (open flame near by). So I limit myself to solvents that have a Iso alcohol/Mineral Spirits/varsol level of flammability and use a fan to circulate the air some. Anything higher like hexane, naphtha, etc. I'd use extremely rarely/carefully with gloves and a fan on & garage door open or avoid it altogether. IOW I'd like to use pure VM&P naphtha as my go to fast evaporating solvent but my circumstances force my hand in a way.

One way I'm thinking of working around this is to make a mix of 80/20 mineral spirits to VM&P Naphtha. So I still get some of the extra cleaning power of the naphtha without as much flammability since it's not pure Naphtha. If I want to convert this mix into an all in one that also protects I will add some mineral oil (this would kinda be a home brew version of the X-treme bore conditioner).

Btw here is a great solvent chart for reference.
 
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Most people I know of think of Hoppe's #9 as super safe/harmless (aside flammable) and have for decades, but it seems like the last revision to it's formula in 2019 might have changed that. Their MSDS now lists multiple components that from either inhalation/skin contact are suspected of being cancer causing and are tagged as IARC Group 1 which appear to be chemicals where there is strong evidence of carcinogenicity in exposed humans. The previous 2016 MSDS chart had about half the ingredients listed and none appear to have been tagged as cancer causing.

link to 2019 MSDS

Looking at other various products like Boretech, Birchwood Casey Gun Scrubber, Shooters Choice, Rust Prevent, even One Shot, none of them appear to draw as much or any attention to cancer risk ingredients/concerns in their MSDS. Granted there are other things to be concerned of with inhalation etc. working with chemicals without proper PPE besides just cancer, but it's definitely made me rethink using the new #9 formula. In Frank's cleaning thread there's also some question if the new #9 formula still contains a good rust preventative, and from the testing link above #9 didn't do great as a corrosion preventative compared to One Shot, Rust Prevent etc. The nice thing about #9 was it seemed to do a good job of long term cleaning without doing any harm and also a good enough job as a rust preventer. You could leave it in indefinitely, it would keep cleaning, prevent rust, and just patch it out before going to the range. If you are really rust concerned or in humid environments though there are probably better options. There's also the possible question of bore material, and how well using weld steel sheet samples in the link above transfers to barrel steels. It seems unlikely though that products that did the best in that testing would somehow end up being corrosive or horrible at preventing corrosion in other types of steel.

That aside it seems like a good idea/common sense not to let products with high water content like sit in barrels long term. If you do use them make sure you get them 100% out with dry patching, really just a good idea with any solvent, and as a precaution it's probably a good idea to run a patch of your favorite rust preventative/oil as a last step. I used to do that with #9, but given the new MSDS it might be time to switch to something else. One Shot's corrosion performance was pretty impressive in testing, but I've also used Rust Prevent in the past. I also like Frank's reference to the M40 cleaning manual that talks about cleaning over multiple days as barrels can "sweat" out carbon over time.
 
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Most people I know of think of Hoppe's #9 as super safe/harmless (aside flammable) and have for decades, but it seems like the last revision to it's formula in 2019 might have changed that. Their MSDS now lists multiple components that from either inhalation/skin contact are suspected of being cancer causing and are tagged as IARC Group 1 which appear to be chemicals where there is strong evidence of carcinogenicity in exposed humans. The previous 2016 MSDS chart had about half the ingredients listed and none appear to have been tagged as cancer causing.

link to 2019 MSDS

Looking at other various products like Boretech, Birchwood Casey Gun Scrubber, Shooters Choice, Rust Prevent, even One Shot, none of them appear to draw as much or any attention to cancer risk ingredients/concerns in their MSDS. Granted there are other things to be concerned of with inhalation etc. working with chemicals without proper PPE besides just cancer, but it's definitely made me rethink using the new #9 formula. In Frank's cleaning thread there's also some question if the new #9 formula still contains a good rust preventative, and from the testing link above #9 didn't do great as a corrosion preventative compared to One Shot, Rust Prevent etc. The nice thing about #9 was it seemed to do a good job of long term cleaning without doing any harm and also a good enough job as a rust preventer. You could leave it in indefinitely, it would keep cleaning, prevent rust, and just patch it out before going to the range. If you are really rust concerned or in humid environments though there are probably better options. There's also the possible question of bore material, and how well using weld steel sheet samples in the link above transfers to barrel steels. It seems unlikely though that products that did the best in that testing would somehow end up being corrosive or horrible at preventing corrosion in other types of steel.

That aside it seems like a good idea/common sense not to let products with high water content like sit in barrels long term. If you do use them make sure you get them 100% out with dry patching, really just a good idea with any solvent, and as a precaution it's probably a good idea to run a patch of your favorite rust preventative/oil as a last step. I used to do that with #9, but given the new MSDS it might be time to switch to something else. One Shot's corrosion performance was pretty impressive in testing, but I've also used Rust Prevent in the past. I also like Frank's reference to the M40 cleaning manual that talks about cleaning over multiple days as barrels can "sweat" out carbon over time.
Yeah good points. The hoppes 9 gun oil actually did pretty well in the rust prevention tests. It’s essentially parrafin oil which is a type of mineral oil.

They made significant removals and additions of ingredients from 2016 to 2019. Removed oleic acid (very likely used as a solvent/protectant) and acetone and added ammonia hydroxide and naphtha. Those two together are pretty toxic. They might have a protectant in the 2019 version but it doesn’t jump out at me.

Hoppe’s #9 solvent:
  • 2016 (still had 9 total ingredients) in order of %: acetone (polar), ethanol (slightly polar), kerosene (nonpolar), oleic acid (nonpolar, protectant/emulsifier), propane (nonpolar), N-butane (nonpolar), N-Amyl Acetate (nonpolar, banana smell), isobutane (nonpolar), and citronellal (polar, lemon smell)
  • 2019 (now has 16 total ingredients), in order of %: Kerosene 30-60% (nonpolar), ethanol 10-30% (slightly polar, used as emulsifier), propan-2-ol 5-10% (isopropyl alcohol) (polar), amyl acetate 1-5% (nonpolar), 2-methylbutyl acetate 1-5% (polar), methyl alcohol 1-5% (slightly polar, used as emulsifier), <1% of ammonium hydroxide, <1% methyl isobutyl ketone, <1% naphthalene, <1% various other things.
 
Yeah good points. The hoppes 9 gun oil actually did pretty well in the rust prevention tests. It’s essentially parrafin oil which is a type of mineral oil.

They made significant removals and additions of ingredients from 2016 to 2019. Removed oleic acid (very likely used as a solvent/protectant) and acetone and added ammonia hydroxide and naphtha. Those two together are pretty toxic. They might have a protectant in the 2019 version but it doesn’t jump out at me.

Hoppe’s #9 solvent:
  • 2016 (still had 9 total ingredients) in order of %: acetone (polar), ethanol (slightly polar), kerosene (nonpolar), oleic acid (nonpolar, protectant/emulsifier), propane (nonpolar), N-butane (nonpolar), N-Amyl Acetate (nonpolar, banana smell), isobutane (nonpolar), and citronellal (polar, lemon smell)
  • 2019 (now has 16 total ingredients), in order of %: Kerosene 30-60% (nonpolar), ethanol 10-30% (slightly polar, used as emulsifier), propan-2-ol 5-10% (isopropyl alcohol) (polar), amyl acetate 1-5% (nonpolar), 2-methylbutyl acetate 1-5% (polar), methyl alcohol 1-5% (slightly polar, used as emulsifier), <1% of ammonium hydroxide, <1% methyl isobutyl ketone, <1% naphthalene, <1% various other things.
Funny, folks always talk about loving the smell of Hoppes #9. That is exactly what kept me away from it. I have a very acute sense of smell and my goal is to use low smell, low voc chemicals, for safety.

Of course this turns out to be flawed thinking with the KG3.
 
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Funny, folks always talk about loving the smell of Hoppes #9.

I used to joke that the best use for Hoppes #9 was a little dab behind the ears to attract the ladies :ROFLMAO:

That is exactly what kept me away from it.

Apparently you never had one of the old Hoppes #9 scented car air-fresheners? Like the pine trees you normally see hanging from car mirrors, but shaped like a bottle of #9? 😁
 
Funny, folks always talk about loving the smell of Hoppes #9. That is exactly what kept me away from it. I have a very acute sense of smell and my goal is to use low smell, low voc chemicals, for safety.

Of course this turns out to be flawed thinking with the KG3.
Hoppes does have some solvents in it towards the end of the ingredients list that have a slight banana smell and also a slight citrus smell so maybe that’s what people are picking up on, but to me it never masked the overall smell. Similarly, I like to stick to the low VOC solvents (varsol/paint thinner, Bore Tech, etc) and just let them soak longer.
 
Just going full circle to Frank Green's cleaning monster thread, I want to re-emphasize the wisdom of "don't use a bore scope" 🙃 I decided to bite the bullet and get a bore scope to see if my cleaning regimen was sufficient to remove the carbon ring. The good news is that it is. I use BT C4 on a wet patch or three and let it soak for 30 minutes. Then I use a nylon brush with some more C4 and scrub a good 15 times, then a few more patches with C4, and a bunch of dry patches to clean it. Once in a while I'll then add in some BT Eliminator, let it soak, rinse and repeat with nylon brush, fresh Eliminator, and lots of dry patches. When finished, I put a wet patch of CLP down there, and then a single dry patch to get rid of most of it (as a preventative).

The downside of the bore scope was that I could see some occasional pitting (a spot here, and a spot there) throughout the barrel. Now, to be honest, many is the time I've just shoved my rifle in the safe for a week or three after shooting without cleaning it (I have always tried to clean after 70 to 100 rounds, but often times I'll just go through 20 rounds of practice from positional shooting and call it a day. Mostly I dry fire at home with a DFAT.

The pitting hasn't affected accuracy at all, mind you. I'm able (now that I'm getting more practiced) to get consistent 5 shot 1/2MOA groups (or better) at 100 with a Bergara B-14 HMR (granted, it is now in an MDT Oryx chassis) using factory Hornady Match 6.5cm. But I think going forward, I'm going to at least put a wet patch of CLP down it when I'm done shooting to prevent any further corrosion. Like some folks above, I'm in Maryland and we do have some humidity here.

Cheers!
 
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Take this with a giant bag of salt, but for giggles I emailed Hoppe's (who turns out is owned by Bushnell) and asked their tech group about the changes to their formula over time and if it was still safe to leave in barrels long term as a protectant.

The first response I got was a bit odd, indicated the formula has not changed in as long as they could remember, but it turned out they thought I was referring to their oil product.

When I clarified that I meant the #9 bore cleaner the response was that it should never be left on any surface for too long, instead it should be removed and their oil should be used.

Now perhaps this Hoppe's tech support person had no idea what they were talking about, perhaps they just wanted to encourage someone to buy their oil and use more product who knows. However, considering the formula changes in 2019, and the fact someone else posted they could no longer find an ingredient that seemed to be a rust preventative in the current formula, it might not be a great idea to continue the old practice of leaving it barrels long term.
 
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Take this with a giant bag of salt, but for giggles I emailed Hoppe's (who turns out is owned by Bushnell) and asked their tech group about the changes to their formula over time and if it was still safe to leave in barrels long term as a protectant.

The first response I got was a bit odd, indicated the formula has not changed in as long as they could remember, but it turned out they thought I was referring to their oil product.

When I clarified that I meant the #9 bore cleaner the response was that it should never be left on any surface for too long, instead it should be removed and their oil should be used.

Now perhaps this Hoppe's tech support person had no idea what they were talking about, perhaps they just wanted to encourage someone to buy their oil and use more product who knows. However, considering the formula changes in 2019, and the fact someone else posted they could no longer find an ingredient that seemed to be a rust preventative in the current formula, it might not be a great idea to continue the old practice of leaving it barrels long term.
Thanks for the update and for calling them. I was the one who posted about their product having pretty significant changes from the 2016 SDS (that had Oleic acid as a protectant/solvent) and 2019 (which didn't have a clear protectant that stood out in the SDS).

Also the SDS for their gun oil shows it's 100% paraffin oil/mineral oil which according to some corrosion tests faired pretty well. So it sounds like you can patch out with the #9 solvent, dry patch, then hit it with some mineral/Hoppe's gun oil as a protectant.

FTR here's the difference in the two versions:

Hoppe’s #9 solvent:
  • 2016 (still had 9 total ingredients) in order of %: acetone (polar), ethanol (slightly polar), kerosene (nonpolar), oleic acid (nonpolar, protectant/emulsifier), propane (nonpolar), N-butane (nonpolar), N-Amyl Acetate (nonpolar, banana smell), isobutane (nonpolar), and citronellal (polar, lemon smell)
  • 2019 (now has 16 total ingredients), in order of %: Kerosene 30-60% (nonpolar), ethanol 10-30% (slightly polar, used as emulsifier), propan-2-ol 5-10% (isopropyl alcohol) (polar), amyl acetate 1-5% (nonpolar), 2-methylbutyl acetate 1-5% (polar), methyl alcohol 1-5% (slightly polar, used as emulsifier), <1% of ammonium hydroxide, <1% methyl isobutyl ketone, <1% naphthalene, <1% various other things.

I'm working on making my own home brew of the 2019 version (minus the ammonia and naphthene) which uses mineral spirits/Varsol as the main solvent instead of Kerosene since it's a little stronger:

In order of % (60,25,10,5): Varsol, Denatured Ethanol, 91% USP Isopropyl, and amyl acetate.
To make it an all in one solvent/protectant add some USP/food grade mineral oil (the solvents will evaporate off leaving a thin layer of the oil coating everything which is how the 2016 version worked).

I'm also working on a home brew version of Slip 2000's Carbon Killer:
Slip 2000 Carbon Killer: Food Grade D-Limonene (Alt Link) (50%?), Reagent ACS grade water (35-40%), and ACS Grade Monoethanolamine (Alt Link) (5-10%)
 
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