Like the title says. If you are using the Hornady HiT hit indicators, how are you attaching them to the posts/targets?
Precision Rifle Gear Using Hornady HIT indicators? How are you attaching them?
- Thread starter lash
- Start date
Where are you attaching it?
I run PRS22 matches and my friend runs centerfire. We use T-posts to hang most targets. Strapping it the the t post is a sure way to have it shot off before the match is over. I used an offset wooden piece to try and avoid spall and lost 4 of 5 to being shot off.
Here’s what I did:
The above were the first version. I made them taller for the last match and had worse luck.
I like these indicators but they are way too sensitive. They indicate when a competitor hits the post instead of the steel target. Also, if you have a multiple array of targets hanging off a common shaft, hitting one target sets off the others on that array.
As to physically mounting them on the steel itself I drilled two holes in the target and mounted a peice of conduit about 12” and mounted the indicator on that. Conduit sticks out 7” at 2 oclock.
As to physically mounting them on the steel itself I drilled two holes in the target and mounted a peice of conduit about 12” and mounted the indicator on that. Conduit sticks out 7” at 2 oclock.
I agree that they are very sensitive. Which works somewhat better for long range .22rf use but is a bigger issue with centerfire.
This seems to be the only thread on the HIT. Is there any more feedback, tips or lessons learned on them?
I'm primarily interested in using them for NRL22(X) and Long Gong.
Has anyone tried taking one apart or modifying it?
I'm primarily interested in using them for NRL22(X) and Long Gong.
Has anyone tried taking one apart or modifying it?
I hear if you aim properly, you can shoot them at a mile...
I gave up on these hornady indicators. They work great for long range centerfire targets mounted on a t post, but close in targets for rimfire they didn’t work out well for my match ( my targets are mounted on 2x4 posts that slide into 4” diameter plastic conduit holes buried 2’ in the ground. Too many competitors hit the posts and the hornady indicator erroneously counts those as a hit).
I’ve switched to the caldwell “flash bang” indicators instead. They cost $31 each, but go on sale occasionally and I have not had the false positives when the posts are hit instead of the target. They are considerably cheaper than the magnetospeeds as they are charging $200 each now. In addition, I like the green LEDs better and there are a lot of them on the caldwell with a better flashing pattern, plus they have a on/off switch.
The downside is the LEDs are exposed to bullet hits, but I mount them around 1-2 o clock on the target and haven’t had a hit yet for half a season. At 31$ I wouldn’t worry about it.
Been thinking of something similar myself. Safest place seems behind the target itself. What about fabricating something to reflect the light 90 degrees and have it stick out the side like the magneto speed one? some 3d printed or PVC tube with a 45degree on the side that you could glue a piece of alum foil on to reflect? Then when it gets shot its a cheap replacement?
Decided to get off my butt and design what I was thinking about previously. 3d printed parts, glue a magnet on the one side, and it should stay on the back of a steel target for 22LR pretty easy. Not sure how it would handle centerfire, might need a different mounting option, maybe some padding to not transfer as much energy to the indicator. (Walls are not super thick, could stand to be thickened after some testing, this was a quick prototype)
The reflective part just slip fits into the tube holding the indicator, and I glued a piece of alum foil on the 45degree angle to reflect the light better. Small knobs on the side to retain a rubber band going around back of the indicator.
If the reflective part gets hit, pull it off and slide a new one in. Could have a few with ya, and with a 3d printer we are looking at about a grand total of $.50 worth of plastic.
https://i.giphy.com/media/v1.Y2lkPT.../QdPN8caxj4ypkB61Ss/giphy-downsized-large.gif
The reflective part just slip fits into the tube holding the indicator, and I glued a piece of alum foil on the 45degree angle to reflect the light better. Small knobs on the side to retain a rubber band going around back of the indicator.
If the reflective part gets hit, pull it off and slide a new one in. Could have a few with ya, and with a 3d printer we are looking at about a grand total of $.50 worth of plastic.
https://i.giphy.com/media/v1.Y2lkPT.../QdPN8caxj4ypkB61Ss/giphy-downsized-large.gif
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I think the real test here will be how it reacts when shot. If it just pokes a hole you've got a winner.
If it shatters or drags then knocks it off the mount you still have down time.
Another idea is to make the reflector a "flap" out of foil furnace tape or perhaps even the entire angled hood.
Would still be a dirt cheap sacrificial part and perhaps be able to withstand a match worth of abuse.
I bought 30 of these for my match in Spring of 2024, down to 20 or so now.
I mount them to the T post 3-4 feet below the target and normally lose one per match to a bad spall hit or on rare occasions a really bad shot.
They work incredibly well, but will activate if someone shoots the post, or in very hard rain. (We still use spotters, I hope everyone does).
Long story short, I love them. Easy to use, cheap to replace. Anything downrange will die eventually.
I mount them to the T post 3-4 feet below the target and normally lose one per match to a bad spall hit or on rare occasions a really bad shot.
They work incredibly well, but will activate if someone shoots the post, or in very hard rain. (We still use spotters, I hope everyone does).
Long story short, I love them. Easy to use, cheap to replace. Anything downrange will die eventually.
That's not a bad play there. I think if I printed it out of TPU the bullets might do a clean pass through, but just gluing down some foil on some cardstock and folding it to be the entire hood would be a cheap and easy way to keep it going. Will have to see if I can come up with a good mount for that! (I have an idea already.)
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I cut a square piece of leather slightly bigger than the hit. Glued it on the top,side, bottom, whatever is exposed.
Never lost another
Never lost another
Good idea to make the reflector a cheap consumable. I reprinted the base unit, thicker, with a hole to mount a strong magnet to it, better rubberband mount points, and the top so that a piece of cardstock could have foil glued to it and folded to fit. Looks to work fine, will need to go try it.
Works pretty damn well at 50yds with an airgun. Pick your magnet wisely, the one I choose is too strong, damn near impossible to get it back off. 
Gif of indicator working
Gif of indicator working
I like the idea.Works pretty damn well at 50yds with an airgun. Pick your magnet wisely, the one I choose is too strong, damn near impossible to get it back off.
Gif of indicator working
I’ve been considering picking a few of these up, but like many small local match MDs, I don’t make any money on my matches, so I’m waiting on one of these sales.
I’m not sure that I 100% understand what you’re saying. Do you mean leather around the case of the indicator?
Okay, just typing this I think I realize that you meant to shield them from spall. Gotcha.
With my cheap redneck wooden mounts I posted earlier, spall really isn’t an issue. I’ve list 5 out of ten in a year and all were direct hits by the bullet. See @Mike Casselton post for an idea of how that turns out, though that particular one was probably 6mm or 6.5mm at 1220 yards.
This should be emphasized. I only use hit indicators at about 275+ yards as anything inside of that is easy to see, often, with the naked eye.
But there should always be someone in the squad (minimum one) with good glass on the target to make the actual impact calls.
As a variation of the system posted above, here's another way to mount them.
You can get those 5 ft U Posts from Lowes for about $6 and mount them behind your T Post. Since they have a U channel, you can buttress them right up against the rear of the T Post or whatever you're using to hang your targets. In this case, these are the Elephant hangers from Krate Tactical. Use zip ties to make sure they stay together. Even mounted at the top, the vibration from a hit is enough to set it off.
You can get those 5 ft U Posts from Lowes for about $6 and mount them behind your T Post. Since they have a U channel, you can buttress them right up against the rear of the T Post or whatever you're using to hang your targets. In this case, these are the Elephant hangers from Krate Tactical. Use zip ties to make sure they stay together. Even mounted at the top, the vibration from a hit is enough to set it off.
The Hornady Hit Indicators are cheap so they're easily replaceable. The best deal is the 2 pack from MidwayUSA for $15.
Since I'm mounting them high above the target, they avoid a lot of the steel splash and potential hits from bullets.
But, I've noticed a few issues (outside of the sensitivity mentioned earlier):
The first issue is that I don't really know how long the battery lasts. I leave these up at a public range, not just for a match, so they got shot throughout the week. They seem to die within 2 weeks. I wish Hornady will tell you how many total flashes you get before the battery gives out but they don't have that info.
The second issue is that the plastic clip on the back will weaken and break off. They're basically held in with 2 small screws that back out all the time. So, you really can't use the included zip ties and hang them from the clip. They will break off.
Therefore, you have to use the rubber piece. But, with the rubber, the clip will slide out with use. I have mine mounted sideways so it eventually falls off.
To mitigate both the plastic clip breakage and the unit sliding out, I slide the unit into the rubber and then tape the unit to the U Post with clear Gorilla outdoor tape. This takes pressure off the clip and keeps the unit from sliding around.
I also have some Caldwell Flash Bangs, which have been in use for 6+ months. The Flash Bangs work good as well except they will eventually be shot up, since their lights are exposed, either through steel splash or bullets. They are pretty tough though as I've seen them continue to work, even with the plastic all shot up and the battery compartment exposed. However, once an opening gets large enough, water can get into the unit and it will then start flashing constantly until it either dries out or the battery runs out. Their 3AAA batteries last a long time though.
BTW, when you're mounting those Caldwells, I've seen more than a few fall off using the included velcro. To mitigate that, I ended up using outdoor velcro and outdoor Gorilla tape over it.
Hope that helps.
Since I'm mounting them high above the target, they avoid a lot of the steel splash and potential hits from bullets.
But, I've noticed a few issues (outside of the sensitivity mentioned earlier):
The first issue is that I don't really know how long the battery lasts. I leave these up at a public range, not just for a match, so they got shot throughout the week. They seem to die within 2 weeks. I wish Hornady will tell you how many total flashes you get before the battery gives out but they don't have that info.
The second issue is that the plastic clip on the back will weaken and break off. They're basically held in with 2 small screws that back out all the time. So, you really can't use the included zip ties and hang them from the clip. They will break off.
Therefore, you have to use the rubber piece. But, with the rubber, the clip will slide out with use. I have mine mounted sideways so it eventually falls off.
To mitigate both the plastic clip breakage and the unit sliding out, I slide the unit into the rubber and then tape the unit to the U Post with clear Gorilla outdoor tape. This takes pressure off the clip and keeps the unit from sliding around.
I also have some Caldwell Flash Bangs, which have been in use for 6+ months. The Flash Bangs work good as well except they will eventually be shot up, since their lights are exposed, either through steel splash or bullets. They are pretty tough though as I've seen them continue to work, even with the plastic all shot up and the battery compartment exposed. However, once an opening gets large enough, water can get into the unit and it will then start flashing constantly until it either dries out or the battery runs out. Their 3AAA batteries last a long time though.
BTW, when you're mounting those Caldwells, I've seen more than a few fall off using the included velcro. To mitigate that, I ended up using outdoor velcro and outdoor Gorilla tape over it.
Hope that helps.
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Pros:
- inexpensive and low cost replacement
- a Quick charge lasts all day (5-10 minutes to charge)
- very bright and noticeable (I’ve used them well past a mile.)
- very usable for ELR practice and hit indication as the sensitivity is much more suited to large heavy targets that barely vibrate when hit than to lighter targets with a lot of movement upon impact.
Cons:
- they are overly sensitive. I would like to see a sensitivity switch. I had to remove one at 308y last match because any impact on the sand berm near but behind it would set it off. Even 3’ away on the berm.
- limited attachment methods. Needs options or at least low end market options for attachment.
Further, I don’t use them inside of 250y as any decent spotter will see impacts on target. Often even with the naked eye.
Thank you. I read the overly sensitive complaints as well which is why I asked.
Mine would be mainly .22 LR. Harder to spot hits at 200-300 especially on a shot plate.
Plus one to everything Lash said in post #28.
My match targets are all hung on 2x4 ‘s and the wood gets hit often (enough that I had to put armor plate on the front to preserve the wood posts) and those erroneous shots would still set off the hornady indicators giving a false positive for scoring. Again, I have had great results using the caldwell indicators without the false positive indications. Not as cheap as the hornadys $9 each price, but I can handle the $31 price for the Caldwells.
If you are just plinking the hornadys are great, but for a match setting I need correct info for scoring hits/misses and the caldwells are better for that
Older pic of one of my match targets. The dog flips over towards the back with a hit, but you can see the 2x4 mount provides a lot of hit area below the target if the competitor shoots low
My match targets are all hung on 2x4 ‘s and the wood gets hit often (enough that I had to put armor plate on the front to preserve the wood posts) and those erroneous shots would still set off the hornady indicators giving a false positive for scoring. Again, I have had great results using the caldwell indicators without the false positive indications. Not as cheap as the hornadys $9 each price, but I can handle the $31 price for the Caldwells.
If you are just plinking the hornadys are great, but for a match setting I need correct info for scoring hits/misses and the caldwells are better for that
Older pic of one of my match targets. The dog flips over towards the back with a hit, but you can see the 2x4 mount provides a lot of hit area below the target if the competitor shoots low
