The Enticer S, like a lot of cans that came out of the last few calendar years, is HUB/Bravo (1.375x24, 1-3/8x24, whatever) threaded so the good thing is you have a lot of options.
You'd have to run adapters anyway to direct thread onto 1/2, 5/8 or 3/4 threads anyway. I really like the JMAC 360HD muzzle devices that are externally HUB threaded, they come in a lot of main internal thread patterns including AKs and are overbored. Never had an issue with non-concentricity.
You can also do Keymo or Rearden taper mounts as well, you have a lot of flexibility being able to do HUB adapters inside of the Enticer too. I've only ever used KAC, Surefire, and direct thread JMAC HUB so I can't say much on those other options other than they're typically cheaper.
Return to zero really depends. Every can has a POI shift depending on a lot of different factors, the suppressor ID, barrel length, suppressor design, ammo. For the most part it's repeatable, and far more exaggerated on a cold bore. As long as you have a quality mount and you are attaching it to the specified torque or amount of turns, you'll be fine 99% of the time.
For instance, on my PS90 SBR 10.4 5.7 all of my Surefire cans RC2, SB2, RC3, 300SPS shoot maybe 1 inch low for the first few rounds at 25 yards. With my KAC alphabet soup can on a M110A3 upper, I'm low .4 mils compared to a non-suppressed zero and then it settles around .2 mils at 100 yard. There's somewhat of a science to it, but that's beyond me, and something to figure out. That said, they have repeatable index mounting.
As far as flash hider versus MB. It depends. I've heard colloquial evidence that the MB acts as a "sacrificial baffle" to prevent erosion. But it's not something you'd be able to definitively measure in my mind. Some mounts have labyrinth seals or other geometry to help, such as using a Warcomp versus a 3-Prong or MB from Surefire, it can make first round flash and overall sound quality different.
