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Suppressor causing thin barrel to droop for first round - which replacement barrel?

theTastyCat

Private
Minuteman
Oct 22, 2007
3
0
Hey all - I'm running an AAC SPR M4 (which weighs 18 oz) on an 18" PSA .223 Wylde upper. I have no illusions about getting under 2MOA out of a PSA factory gas gun, but 2 or even 3 MOA is all I need out of this gun, which is for coyote at 150, maybe 200 yards, or less. I had a heck of a time getting it zeroed when I first put it together but finally got it to group well enough and took it hunting.

Since then, I have had two inexplicable misses and more troubles when zeroing a new scope. I have finally only today discovered (after years of frustrations) that the cold-bore shot is hitting 10+ MOA low. I know it's hard to believe that I didn't discover this until now, but when I was zeroing it, once I was able to get a decent 5-round group I was no longer concerned with where the first round may have hit, so I didn't realize there was an issue. Of course in hunting the first round is often the only round!

I talked to a smith about it today who said the problem was likely the skinny factory barrel, which was probably drooping under the weight of the can until it was heated up by the first round, then maintaining POI decently for subsequent shots. He recommended replacing the barrel with something thicker and mentioned Aero; they've got two rifle-length 18" .223 Wylde barrels, one fluted and one not - any way of knowing if they will be strong enough to clear up this first-shot-low issue? I like fluted for weight but not if it's going to contribute to this problem in any way. I wish I could give some specs on the current barrel but the item's page is showing 404 when I look at it - I could always reach out to PSA for the specs to be sure.

Many thanks, all - as mad as I am that many hunting trips have been compromised by a rifle that I was sure was properly zeroed, it is a massive relief to finally have an explanation! I'll rezero and hunt without the can for the rest of this season and hopefully have everything straight before next year.

Thank you for the advice!
 
A new barrel is a good start coming from a pencil barrel.

But some of this logic is broken. your suppressor doesn't weigh less after the first shot. Barrels that shift with temperature tend to string between two points as they heat and cool, not one shot off, then fine.

Is your "cold bore" also cleaned bore? Try not cleaning it and see if first shot is still off.


Either way, a better barrel is more about the quality of craftsman than the profile. After all that frustration, consider a quality barrel? What is your budget?
 
Many thanks for the reply. I did clean it just before this last session because I was getting light strikes and it had been quite a while, but the sessions before that hadn't been just after a cleaning. I admit it doesn't make much sense - but what on earth else could be causing this??

Money is tight right now, but I'd rather wait and spend what I need to to get this thing shooting 2 MOA every shot. That said, it's a PSA coyote gun, so I don't need to go crazy on a barrel either. I am open to options!
 
Many thanks for the reply. I did clean it just before this last session because I was getting light strikes and it had been quite a while, but the sessions before that hadn't been just after a cleaning. I admit it doesn't make much sense - but what on earth else could be causing this??

Money is tight right now, but I'd rather wait and spend what I need to to get this thing shooting 2 MOA every shot. That said, it's a PSA coyote gun, so I don't need to go crazy on a barrel either. I am open to options!
The barrel has more to do with overall performance than any other part, worth waiting to get decent quality.

For about $300 you should be able to find some good options.
 
I don't have any experience with that particular AAC can, but one thing I noticed about some of their older cans was the lock up wasn't super tight. Sometimes it would be in between flash hider teeth, there would be some wobble. Have you checked to make sure you have it cranked down as tightly as it can go?

Any suppressor is going to add weight to the muzzle, I have a Surefire 556 RC and my shift is typically .7 mil straight down when I use the can with a 16" Criterion AR
 
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I can tell you that your gun guy is full of crap. Suppressors don't get lighter and barrels dont get stiffer as they heat up.

Still, thin profile barrels aren't the best for hanging stuff off of them. If you're on a budget and considering your needs, any full contour barrel taking a .750 gas block from either Roscoe or ballistic advantage will do you. I think primary arms has a sale going on right now. I saw several decent barrels at $100 and less.
 
That amount of shift is well beyond what is typically observed with screwing a can on even a thin barrel, especially given it is only for the first shot.

I also have to ask the obvious other questions. Is the mount/suppressor actually concentric to the bore? Is the barrel nut tight?

What your dude is telling you about drooping but expanding after shooting is nonsense.

Get a heavier barrel if you can't pinpoint a solution.
 
I don't have any experience with that particular AAC can, but one thing I noticed about some of their older cans was the lock up wasn't super tight. Sometimes it would be in between flash hider teeth, there would be some wobble. Have you checked to make sure you have it cranked down as tightly as it can go?

Any suppressor is going to add weight to the muzzle, I have a Surefire 556 RC and my shift is typically .7 mil straight down when I use the can with a 16" Criterion AR
Good point, those 51t mounts were well known for issues.
 
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Can you get it to group with the suppressor attached? even if it shoot low can you get it to group? If its all of the place, check for baffle strikes on the suppressor. even with a pencil barrel you should be able to get it to group.

check barrel nut? gas block loose? muzzle break loose?
 
Well I can't thank you enough for all of these great responses. Lots of wisdom here! I did take the barrel assembly apart today to see if anything was loose, and nothing was - everything was snug, no signs of baffle strikes, anything like that. But the barrel was comically easy to bend back and forth inside the free-float fore-end. So - tomorrow afternoon I'm going to try some 55-grain plinking reloads just to see if I have the same cold-bore shift - and depending on the results of that, I think I'm going to order me one of the BA barrels on sale at Primary Arms - thanks for the tip on that, Tony! It's close to $200 but it's the right length and right chamber (and with fluting which is huge since this gun will get many miles put on it) - of course it's not 1:12 but at this point I'll take a GOOD barrel in 1:8 and just figure out what it wants to eat. Doesn't matter how flat my 40-grainers shoot if the first (only) shot is 10 MOA from where it needs to be.

Thanks again for all the great help here - I really appreciate it!! I'll report back with my findings hopefully by this time tomorrow.