I've got a Solus action coated by PVD and a stainless barrel to go on it. Up till now I've always tried to stick with stainless machine finish and just be done with it. Didn't have that option w/the Solus action...so I'm wondering if anyone has ever removed the black PVD off the outside of an action like that? I don't want to mess with the inside or the bolt because of tolerances. Was thinking I could tape all of that off real good and maybe just blast it with baking soda or walnut shell to stay on the less abrasive end of the blasting spectrum. Then again the rail might end up a bit loose if I blast a few thousands of coating off the outside.
Hoping someone has experience with this sort of thing OR has already done it & either screwed it up and can tell me "NO SAVE YOURSELF" or the such?
IF YOU WANT TO SAVE YOURSELF SOME TIME (and not read JR1200W3 & I pissing in each other's Cheerios for what I hope is just fun)...
Hoping someone has experience with this sort of thing OR has already done it & either screwed it up and can tell me "NO SAVE YOURSELF" or the such?
IF YOU WANT TO SAVE YOURSELF SOME TIME (and not read JR1200W3 & I pissing in each other's Cheerios for what I hope is just fun)...
- kl3309 wrote: The proper way to do this would be to disassemble, blast, machine/polish/lap, and re-assemble. If you're not willing to do that then pass it on to a pro refinisher.
- I had some bad information on how PVD worked
- 308Pirate wrote:
how PVD coatings work. The workpiece being coated is not transformed in any way.
The material to be deposited as a coating onto the workpiece is vaporized in a plasma stream/flame. Said plasma stream deposits the coating onto the object being coated.
Removing the coating will need mechanical/abrasive action as you correctly guessed. The problem lies in that you don't know the thickness of the coating that you're removing and so you don't know if you've removed any of the base metal under the coating.
You're correct to not want to remove the coating from parts where fit is important but not for the reason you think. The fit between two parts is not necessarily affected by the dimensional tolerance of each part. Tolerances are allowed variations from a nominal dimension, are fixed by the design engineer, and are not known by you unless you have the manufacturing drawings for the parts in question. Besides nobody can change or alter tolerances. What you can do is change the actual dimensions of the mating parts which will affect how they fit together. Your actions may remove enough material to render one or more parts out of tolerance or the part may still be in tolerance because you didn't remove too much material. You will never know by feeling how the parts fit together.
- Final outcome: "it's a dumb idea" but not for the reasons I was originally thinking. It's a lot of work and cost to remove such a coating. Most importantly because the coating is engineered into the product specifications it would be nearly impossible wo/the engineer drawings to know exactly what problems I could be introducing. Seems it would be far ahead to spend extra money to get a stainless Zermatt Arms TL3, SR3, or even Defiance Outcast (all give the remington 700 footprint w/savage barrel threads)
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