Is Lapua or Alpha worth the premium? Just getting into 6.5CM and need to stock up on brass. Can get starline for about half the price.
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Lapua/Alpha worth the premium?
- Thread starter MMH
- Start date
Depends on you and your level of consistency that you're seeking. I use Lapua, Alpha, Peterson, and Starline in my rifles.
Starline is no slouch. I've posted my testing results before when I took 20 virgin cases and measured to the datum point on the shoulder, case OAL, and primer pocket depth. Then I took 20 fired cases and measured H2O capacity. I've done this now in both 6.5 Creedmoor and Grendel as well as .223. They were surprisingly consistent, better than Hornady and Federal brass.
However, Lapua and Alpha are even more consistent. It is getting close to hair splitting, but if you're looking for every advantage then the step up is worth it.
I'll also note here that Starline brass is very thick, so case capacity is going to be less in most instances than the Lapua stuff. You may also occasionally run into a bit of flashing left over from the flash hole being punched in the Starline cases. I might find one every 15th or 20th case as I'm deburring them. I don't even bother trying to debur the Lapua/Alpha stuff.
I will continue to use Lapua and Alpha in my rifles that I'm trying to wring every bit of accuracy from, and I'll continue to run Peterson and Starline in my rifles that I'm hunting with or use for general target shooting. You can still build half-minute ammo with single-digit SDs with the Starline stuff.
Starline is no slouch. I've posted my testing results before when I took 20 virgin cases and measured to the datum point on the shoulder, case OAL, and primer pocket depth. Then I took 20 fired cases and measured H2O capacity. I've done this now in both 6.5 Creedmoor and Grendel as well as .223. They were surprisingly consistent, better than Hornady and Federal brass.
However, Lapua and Alpha are even more consistent. It is getting close to hair splitting, but if you're looking for every advantage then the step up is worth it.
I'll also note here that Starline brass is very thick, so case capacity is going to be less in most instances than the Lapua stuff. You may also occasionally run into a bit of flashing left over from the flash hole being punched in the Starline cases. I might find one every 15th or 20th case as I'm deburring them. I don't even bother trying to debur the Lapua/Alpha stuff.
I will continue to use Lapua and Alpha in my rifles that I'm trying to wring every bit of accuracy from, and I'll continue to run Peterson and Starline in my rifles that I'm hunting with or use for general target shooting. You can still build half-minute ammo with single-digit SDs with the Starline stuff.
The answer depends on what you are gonna do.
Give it your best with an already installed premium barrel, maybe something more than informal competition ...then yes.
Just all around fun shooting, steel, friendly informal competition, plinking, auto loaders...no.
I use Lake City when shooting 308 for that.
Here is the test example of the difference in group size... fired in a target rifle.
Same exact powder charge and bullet in both sets cases, sized in the same Wilson bushing die.
The smaller 5 shot group on the right Lapua brass no case prep at all.
The slightly larger left hand group Lake City brass no case prep at all, even had the live LC primer still crimped in the case as they were pulled bullet cases, no decapping pin.
The cheap LC cases work great for most shooting.
Auto loaders with premium barrels are capable of tiny groups... less than 1/2" five shot groups some in the .3" and .4" with LC brass.
So cheap ya don't care if ya lose it, no case prep, don't care about longevity...just load and shoot, many times on a progressive press...it still shoots good with reasonable loads, and some unreasonable loads
That's about the difference...it's very small....you decide if that's important to the days shooting endeavors.
Give it your best with an already installed premium barrel, maybe something more than informal competition ...then yes.
Just all around fun shooting, steel, friendly informal competition, plinking, auto loaders...no.
I use Lake City when shooting 308 for that.
Here is the test example of the difference in group size... fired in a target rifle.
Same exact powder charge and bullet in both sets cases, sized in the same Wilson bushing die.
The smaller 5 shot group on the right Lapua brass no case prep at all.
The slightly larger left hand group Lake City brass no case prep at all, even had the live LC primer still crimped in the case as they were pulled bullet cases, no decapping pin.
The cheap LC cases work great for most shooting.
Auto loaders with premium barrels are capable of tiny groups... less than 1/2" five shot groups some in the .3" and .4" with LC brass.
So cheap ya don't care if ya lose it, no case prep, don't care about longevity...just load and shoot, many times on a progressive press...it still shoots good with reasonable loads, and some unreasonable loads
That's about the difference...it's very small....you decide if that's important to the days shooting endeavors.
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I say yes as well, however I use Starline in AR10 due to lost cases and it serves me very well.
For a precision rifle? Absolutely. Do auto racers run O’reillys house brand oil? Do loggers use black and decker chainsaws? Does Taylor Swift date a Miami dolphin?
No. Use premium brass.
No. Use premium brass.
I use starline in my semi auto. Alpha in my precision bolts.
I don’t conflate precision bolts with anything else.
ETA: I use ADG in my 6.5 PRC bolt, because Alpha doesn’t make it.
I don’t conflate precision bolts with anything else.
ETA: I use ADG in my 6.5 PRC bolt, because Alpha doesn’t make it.
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Yes. I had to use Hornady for my 6.5 at the time no high end brass was made for it. I can make it shoot very good but the brass takes work. Sorting out over short, truing primer pockets, deburring/uniforming flash hole, all different lengths, etc. That barrel is almost shot out and it will be hello Lapua and a ton less brass work. Lapua also lasts substantially more loadings that cheaper brass.
Me either. My precision bolts are in a class of their own and I've pretty much switched to all Alpha. In the process of shooting out the last of my 6X47L barrels using Lapua, and then switching to all Dasher...and .300WM of course.
Everything else I use range brass. A local indoor range will sell me a full five gallon bucket for $75. I haven't done it in a long time because it's about 50% 9mm, and the balance being mostly 5.56, .45, some .300BLK. I have thousands of once fired all different stamps, and if it's not going to fly more than a hundred yards I just don't care, or see the point in paying for virgin brass when I can buy X1 fired for whatever they're getting from the scrap dealer.
Everything else I use range brass. A local indoor range will sell me a full five gallon bucket for $75. I haven't done it in a long time because it's about 50% 9mm, and the balance being mostly 5.56, .45, some .300BLK. I have thousands of once fired all different stamps, and if it's not going to fly more than a hundred yards I just don't care, or see the point in paying for virgin brass when I can buy X1 fired for whatever they're getting from the scrap dealer.
So I think Alpha brass is great no doubt and chose to use Alpha in my Dasher, but I have had amazing SD's and ES's in my 6.5CM using Starline SRP Brass. I did deburr all the flash holes and resize and trim to all the same length prior to first shooting. Starline SRP brass is bang up for the money and being able to buy in 500 round lots. I would buy again. hope this helps.
As already stated the premium brass Lapua/Alpha are generally consistent enough to just run with out of the box.
The lesser or more factory brands like Hornady can be extremely consistent once sorted and reworked to make them more consistent but requires several more steps, tools, and time spent on them.
I have reworked some Hornady 6.5CM to include weight sorting, uniforming primer pockets, deburing and uniforming flash holes and neck turning but it's alot of work but worth it if you have the tools and time they can be just as good but seem to be a bit softer brass in my experience and don't have the same lifespan as Lapua.
The lesser or more factory brands like Hornady can be extremely consistent once sorted and reworked to make them more consistent but requires several more steps, tools, and time spent on them.
I have reworked some Hornady 6.5CM to include weight sorting, uniforming primer pockets, deburing and uniforming flash holes and neck turning but it's alot of work but worth it if you have the tools and time they can be just as good but seem to be a bit softer brass in my experience and don't have the same lifespan as Lapua.
Late to the party.
YES.
99.9% of the time I never have to worry that my brass (a Main component) is a variable. Normally it is obviously visible if the brass is bad with match brass. I haven't had a alpha case go bad.
But those only have 7-9 firings
I have some second hand Lapua SRP that started to have case head separation. I believe the previous owner shot them hot as shit, or like 50 firings.
But I know if I had some new lapua cases ($4-500 investment) it would be worth the premium.
That brass in my hands should last several barrels.
YES.
99.9% of the time I never have to worry that my brass (a Main component) is a variable. Normally it is obviously visible if the brass is bad with match brass. I haven't had a alpha case go bad.
But those only have 7-9 firings
I have some second hand Lapua SRP that started to have case head separation. I believe the previous owner shot them hot as shit, or like 50 firings.
But I know if I had some new lapua cases ($4-500 investment) it would be worth the premium.
That brass in my hands should last several barrels.
Yes lapua is very nice, great stuff.
Starline is good too, less good but very good where I've used it!
For typical shooting I'd bet starline will do what's needed. It's my go to cheaper pick when possible. I've had no problem shooting sub moa and better with starline in 300blk, .223, .357 mag, 30-30, .308, .3006, .270 and others. H20 capacity measurements for quickload are favorable too in my small samples. Better than other normie brass for sure.
Biggest positive is It's less painful when you feed starline to the grass goblins.
If you need BEST and are trying to send the BEST, I'd use Lapua or alpha for that.
Starline is good too, less good but very good where I've used it!
For typical shooting I'd bet starline will do what's needed. It's my go to cheaper pick when possible. I've had no problem shooting sub moa and better with starline in 300blk, .223, .357 mag, 30-30, .308, .3006, .270 and others. H20 capacity measurements for quickload are favorable too in my small samples. Better than other normie brass for sure.
Biggest positive is It's less painful when you feed starline to the grass goblins.
If you need BEST and are trying to send the BEST, I'd use Lapua or alpha for that.
^^^^ This.
I did most of Diggler's testing steps on 20 Starline .223 cases. I also found "measurable" consistency to be top-shelf. Yes, the brass is thick, evidenced by AMP annealer's generated Aztec code - higher than cheaper brands like Hornady. The only thing I'll note is that my virgin Starline .223 cases were at the short end of SAAMI spec. A buddy of mine found this to be true with his new Starline .223 brass as well.
As others wrote above, your use case may factor in. I bought Peterson and Starline 6.5CM brass fairly early in my precision rifle journey; used the Starline for practice ammo and the Peterson for matches. Very little difference between them. I'm registered for the first match of the season on the 01-Feb... at present, I plan to leave my 6BR and expensive Alpha brass home and run 6.5CM with 140 ELDMs in old, mixed-lot Hornady brass. Why? Because I expect to be cold and wet and shoot poorly at this first match, and I won't care if that brass is wet, muddy, or just gone.
For precision rifles, absolutely! I'm running Alpha in my Dasher, and it's super consistent and will last forever. I've been running Starline in my 6 ARC gasser, but I just picked up 500 Alpha's for it. I don't have enough data to say if it's any more consistent than Starline in a gas gun.
This makes perfect sense for 5.56. How many people are running 5.56 in a gasser compared to those who run a bolt? Running a bit long in a bolt gun may give you a heavy close, but unless egregiously out of spec or a "short" chamber you can still close the bolt. It will make many gassers FTF if only a smidge long.
