Anyone use Silica Gel Packets-Desiccant Packs to keep moisture out of powder?

MMH

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Does anyone use the Silica Gel Packets-Desiccant Packs to reduce how much moisture is in opened powder jugs. Never have before but am beginning to buy 8 lbs. jugs which I will not go through very quickly. What size packets would I need? That is how much water in weight should the packet be able to absorb?
 
I use them in a sealed plastic tub where I store my precious stockpile of primers. I put three at a time in it, and swap them out every few months when the color changes (indicating saturation). I have no idea if it helps. But it helps "me".
 
Powder needs some amount of moisture in order to get the correct burn rate. I use humidity control packs to maintain the humidity.
I use the 49% packets

 
I use the throw away desiccant packs in any new powder container to attempt to regulate the RH of product, and my SD’s are generally in single digits. Having said that, do see some volume vs weight variation over time with same settings on Redding powder throws. And I have no way to measure RH over time with 8lb’ers, nor do I know what the ideal RH of powder should be. Any industry folks here have specific advice on where RH should be kept, as I don’t think much other than ambient RH is especially controllable once containers have been opened/closed a few cycles.
 
Powder needs some amount of moisture in order to get the correct burn rate. I use humidity control packs to maintain the humidity.
I use the 49% packets

I use the same packs - per Litz' recommendation, the 58% ones.

The 'Size 67' work in 8lb containers, and the 'Size 8' in 1lb containers.

Only in the opened containers, to keep them ready for loading.

They're on Amazon.
 
Powder needs some amount of moisture in order to get the correct burn rate. I use humidity control packs to maintain the humidity.
I use the 49% packets

This is what I use. On 5lb the Kestrel drops works to check/ monitor humidity.

For 1 lb I use https://a.co/d/i6xeaDH


Here in Wyoming power drys out which in turn causes speeds to increase. Monitoring/ checking humidity changes can help account for this. They usually start out around 50% and those 49% packs do a great job of keeping them there or bringing humidity up to 49%.
 
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If you use the search function, you will find extensive documentation that I have done experimenting with the relative humidity of powder inside sealed containers, using a variety of devices and observational and quasi experimental methods.

At one point, I had multiple humidity packs in each container, dozens of them in action at any given time. Got on the bandwagon before I understood enough about powder humidity

I have removed them all and I don’t utilize them anymore

The only full proof way to keep powder humidity constant at around 50%, which is where you want it, is to keep it in a cool place 70° or below with a relatively constant humidity near 50%

If you do your reloading somewhere else, take the powder from this temperature and humidity controlled environment, only long enough to do your reloading session and then replace it to that controlled environment

It is the only way

If you put those humidity packs in there, and then move that canister around to different temperatures, moisture exchanges with that humidity pack and changes the total water content of your powder, which is what you are interested in - not the RH per se

The total water content of your powder can stay exactly the same, but the relative humidity change as the temperature goes up and down. Conversely, if you put that RH pack in there in garage in winter, it will remove moisture from the powder. Then, as it heats up in the summer, it will add the imposture back to the powder. Fluctuation water content in the powder is exactly what we DONT want

So we are back to square one: put your powder in the basement at about 60° and 50% relative humidity and leave it there. It is the only way

For those of you who are using the relative humidity packs, in addition to the above, I suggest that you

- Tell me how you know how many of those humidity packs that are intended for a cigar box are necessary to equilibrate the humidity inside an 8 pound canister filled with a certain and probably fluctuating proportion of powder and air

-go read about guys who use them for cigars; those are not closed systems

- Tell me how long it takes the powder to equilibrate, even if you do have an optimal number of packs inside

-tell me whether or not during this equilibration, the humidity pack that is on top of the powder column is causing a gradient of humidity along the depth of the power. If it is, how long does it take for equilibrium to be established and abolish that gradient?
 
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If you use the search function, you will find extensive documentation that I have done experimenting with the relative humidity of powder inside sealed containers, using a variety of devices and observational and quasi experimental methods.

At one point, I had multiple humidity packs in each container, dozens of them in action at any given time. Got on the bandwagon before I understood enough about powder humidity

I have removed them all and I don’t utilize them anymore

The only full proof way to keep powder humidity constant at around 50%, which is where you want it, is to keep it in a cool place 70° or below with a relatively constant humidity near 50%

If you do your reloading somewhere else, take the powder from this temperature and humidity controlled environment, only long enough to do your reloading session and then replace it to that controlled environment

It is the only way

If you put those humidity packs in there, and then move that canister around to different temperatures, moisture exchanges with that humidity pack and changes the total water content of your powder, which is what you are interested in - not the RH per se

The total water content of your powder can stay exactly the same, but the relative humidity change as the temperature goes up and down. Conversely, if you put that RH pack in there in garage in winter, it will remove moisture from the powder. Then, as it heats up in the summer, it will add the imposture back to the powder. Fluctuation water content in the powder is exactly what we DONT want

So we are back to square one: put your powder in the basement at about 60° and 50% relative humidity and leave it there. It is the only way

For those of you who are using the relative humidity packs, in addition to the above, I suggest that you

- Tell me how you know how many of those humidity packs that are intended for a cigar box are necessary to equilibrate the humidity inside an 8 pound canister filled with a certain and probably fluctuating proportion of powder and air

-go read about guys who use them for cigars; those are not closed systems

- Tell me how long it takes the powder to equilibrate, even if you do have an optimal number of packs inside

-tell me whether or not during this equilibration, the humidity pack that is on top of the powder column is causing a gradient of humidity along the depth of the power. If it is, how long does it take for equilibrium to be established and abolish that gradient?
from what i read 24-48hrs the powder seems to level out to its environment. you bring up some good points that would be great to see tested in a controllable environment.
loaded, non sealed ammo seems to vary on case size, but 1yr for 30-06 case was noted that it leveled out.
 
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I am blissfully ignorant or have good conditions here. I have powders and primers stored in original containers and heated/cooled environment. I am shooting some stuff that is years old with no issues. Loaded with an 8 year old partial jug of H4350 last weekend and shot well at 1000 with the same data from the load work up back when the jug was bought. Always open to good information though.
 
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