Tikka T1x not extracting fired cases

Rant Durden

Calmer than you
Full Member
Minuteman
Mar 18, 2018
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Tikka T1x will not eject a fired case frame the chamber. Approximately 500 rounds fired from the gun. It was fine for a while, but started leaving fired cases jammed in the chamber. It will extract non fired rounds, in chamber. Bolt has been cleaned, chamber cleaned. The extractor won’t go over the case rim of a fired case. There’s a “fix” to remove a small amount of material from the extractor, but that hasn’t changed anything.
 
Tikka T1x will not eject a fired case frame the chamber. Approximately 500 rounds fired from the gun. It was fine for a while, but started leaving fired cases jammed in the chamber. It will extract non fired rounds, in chamber. Bolt has been cleaned, chamber cleaned. The extractor won’t go over the case rim of a fired case. There’s a “fix” to remove a small amount of material from the extractor, but that hasn’t changed anything.
Can you post pics of a fired case? It sorta sounds like a possible headspace issue. Another possibility is a dented chamber from dryfire, if so the steel can be “ironed” back into place.
 
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It’s every case. Three different manufacturers. The only dry fire the rifle has seen is after cleaning, pulling the trigger after cleaning for storage.
Would that be enough to dent the chamber?
How would I check this and what is “ironing?”
 
When I allow the firing pin spring to go into the relaxed position after cleaning or when I place the unloaded rifle in a case for transport with the bolt in the closed position...I squeeze (and hold) the trigger before I close the bolt. I do not own a Tikka and have never fondled one, either, but with all of the rifles I have from several manufacturers, this will place the rifle in fired condition and the firing pin spring will be relaxed and do in a "gentle" manner.

I have no idea what's going on with your stuff. Pics, clear detailed close-up pics, would be useful.
 
It doesn't take much damage to a chamber mouth to cause difficulty extracting cases. Like hard to see with the naked eye not much.
If it is damage, a chamber swage like this one fixes it quickly and simply.


Worked perfectly on a Marlin 39A that was driving me nuts.
 
It’s every case. Three different manufacturers. The only dry fire the rifle has seen is after cleaning, pulling the trigger after cleaning for storage.
Would that be enough to dent the chamber?
How would I check this and what is “ironing?”
 
I don’t really have the capability to do pictures that show my chamber very well.
When one of the kids can help I’ll try.
Is anyone familiar with using bolt shims?
 
1. Check the case rim diameter of all three types that you are using. Winchester and Eley tend to have larger rim diameters than brands such as Lapua. At the least, you can identify OR eliminate a possible cause of failure. I identified this factor during my ownership of an original Browning T bolt rifle which had a ridiculously weak transverse coil-spring-actuated setup. I had initial problems with Lapua cartridges and changed to Winchester after comparing rim diameters.
2. Check the profile of your extractor.
3. I cannot recall the configuration of the Tikka T1X bolt BUT it is possible to dismantle many a .22 Rimfire breechbolt and reassemble it with the extractor and the ‘helper’ in the wrong slots.
 
1. Check the case rim diameter of all three types that you are using. Winchester and Eley tend to have larger rim diameters than brands such as Lapua. At the least, you can identify OR eliminate a possible cause of failure. I identified this factor during my ownership of an original Browning T bolt rifle which had a ridiculously weak transverse coil-spring-actuated setup. I had initial problems with Lapua cartridges and changed to Winchester after comparing rim diameters.
2. Check the profile of your extractor.
3. I cannot recall the configuration of the Tikka T1X bolt BUT it is possible to dismantle many a .22 Rimfire breechbolt and reassemble it with the extractor and the ‘helper’ in the wrong slots.
No tensioner on the T1x bolt, just the extractor.
 
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It doesn't take much damage to a chamber mouth to cause difficulty extracting cases. Like hard to see with the naked eye not much.
If it is damage, a chamber swage like this one fixes it quickly and simply.


Worked perfectly on a Marlin 39A that was driving me nuts.
Upon further review it appears there is a bur from dry firing. I can’t get a picture that really shows the bur, but I can see it and feel it with a small Allen head run across the spot.
I’ll report back after I’ve used the swage.
 
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Upon further review it appears there is a bur from dry firing. I can’t get a picture that really shows the bur, but I can see it and feel it with a small Allen head run across the spot.
I’ll report back after I’ve used the swage.
Excellent, you have identified the problem, now, a bit of a warning: DO NOT REMOVE THE DISPLACED METAL!
I’ve seen people just scrape or polish away the steel rather than iron it back where it’s supposed to be. If you remove the metal completely, when the firing pin strikes, there will not be any case support to provide the crush to the rim. The brass ends up deforming rather than getting sharply pinched, and consistent ignition of the primer suffers. Best to maintain that hard case support👍
 
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Upon further review it appears there is a bur from dry firing. I can’t get a picture that really shows the bur, but I can see it and feel it with a small Allen head run across the spot.
I’ll report back after I’ve used the swage.
This is why .. I have always saved fired cases from my competition .22 rimfire rifles for dry-firing practice. I started doing that when I got into 25m indoor shooting in the mid to late '80s. I do the same for every new acquisition .22 rimfire.
 
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