Gunsmithing Stuck 8.6 Blk case AR10

db2000

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  • Mar 27, 2020
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    Any advice on removing 8.6 Blk brass from a Seekins SP10 and Mos-Tek barrel?

    I was shooting suppressed 300 gr and the shot sounded louder than the others. Doubtful a double charge of A1680 but anything is possible I suppose.

    The bolt is about 1/8” or so open (see pic) but actually ripped off one latch of an ambidextrous Geiselle Super Charging Handle the bolt is so stuck. The latch is open though on the CH so that’s not preventing it from opening.
    I used spray lube and a solid brass rod with a lot of force and still not budging.
    Considered removing the barrel but not sure how that would be affected by the bolt extractor holding the stuck brass.
    Thanks.

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    Had something similar not too long ago with a 6.5 MWS. Popped a primer which managed to get stuck in the cam pin path. Broke a SOPMOD stock mortaring that thing. Ended up using a brass rod through the ejection port knocking the carrier back little by little. Maybe that’s what you’ve got there?
     
    Had something similar not too long ago with a 6.5 MWS. Popped a primer which managed to get stuck in the cam pin path. Broke a SOPMOD stock mortaring that thing. Ended up using a brass rod through the ejection port knocking the carrier back little by little. Maybe that’s what you’ve got there?
    Yes possibly. I’ve had that happen before and it was very tight. I’m not missing a primer that I know of as I recover all brass. But, one piece ejected and was lost in snow, grass and leaves. Maybe that was the one. Thanks.
     
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    I seen a guy on YouTube put a grease zerk fitting on an old thread protector then he used a grease gun to pump grease in there. It popped it out but made a huge mess
     
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    Removing the barrel doesn’t necessarily remedy the issue when the bolt carrier is stuck to a piece of brass and the brass is stuck in the barrel…
    That’s my concern as stated. If anyone has experience with that I’m all ears lol
    I appreciate all the ideas though.
     
    Hold charging handle to the rear and tap (slight force) buttstock on table. Your bolt should come back and eject your case. Of course do all your safety checks first...
    Trying to find a video on the tube but no luck...
     
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    Hold charging handle to the rear and slam buttstock on table. Your bolt should come back and eject your case. Of course do all your safety checks first...
    The charging handle is already open and not hindering. I’ll give it a shot but this level of stuck is unfucking real. A solid brass rod and reverse mortaring the rod on concrete didn’t budge it 😳
    Hammering the rod didn’t either. 🤷‍♂️
     
    Yeah, sounds like you have a primer in the cam pin opening on the bcg. That's still my bet on this one. Mine was a real bitch to deal with also. It took a fairly strong series of hammer blows on the brass rod to get it moving. Didn't scratch my receiver or mess anything up so not sure where the "bubba" comment came from above. Either I was going to do this or somebody else was...

    Try putting the carrier further into battery if you run out of other ideas. Might squish the primer in a way that then allows retraction to be a little easier. But might not. Sorry, man. It's a YMMV kinda deal if it's what I think it is.
     
    Prying w/ a screwdriver maybe budged another 1/8”. Mortaring didn’t help. I’m almost certain a primer stuck in there. I’ll look into moving back into battery but no forward assist so may have to remove stock??? Probably will give to my smith and see what he comes up with at this point. Thanks.
     
    It sounds like your bolt is not being allowed to rotate out of battery. Regardless of whether it is a primer cup or overpressured brass that flowed, if it is still even partially in battery no amount of hammering from the front is going to get it moving.

    That direction of force is exactly what the bolt and barrel extension is designed to contain.

    If you are intent on trying to get it open via kinetics (beating the fuck out of it) your best bet is to ignore the bolt and try to get the carrier moving to the rear. If you can do that and things hold together, the carrier will try to finish camming the bolt out of battery.

    Can you separate the upper from the lower?

    If so, you should be able to get access to the bottom rear of the carrier so you can hammer it rearward with a piece of Delrin, brass, aluminum, etc.
     
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    It sounds like your bolt is not being allowed to rotate out of battery. Regardless of whether it is a primer cup or overpressured brass that flowed, if it is still even partially in battery no amount of hammering from the front is going to get it moving.

    That direction of force is exactly what the bolt and barrel extension is designed to contain.

    If you are intent on trying to get it open via kinetics (beating the fuck out of it) your best bet is to ignore the bolt and try to get the carrier moving to the rear. If you can do that and things hold together, the carrier will try to finish camming the bolt out of battery.

    Can you separate the upper from the lower?

    If so, you should be able to get access to the bottom rear of the carrier so you can hammer it rearward with a piece of Delrin, brass, aluminum, etc.
    Agreed. To be clear, when I dealt with my similar scenario, I used a brass rod that was fairly narrow diameter to move the carrier. Not a rod down the barrel.
    OP, if you’re still wrestling with this, also try using some kroil and gravity to your advantage. Try to move the carrier slightly and invert the gun occasionally, then give it a couple non-hulk smacks with a rubber mallet. Might dislodge the primer with some luck. Hope it works out without too much drama, man.
     
    It sounds like your bolt is not being allowed to rotate out of battery. Regardless of whether it is a primer cup or overpressured brass that flowed, if it is still even partially in battery no amount of hammering from the front is going to get it moving.

    That direction of force is exactly what the bolt and barrel extension is designed to contain.

    If you are intent on trying to get it open via kinetics (beating the fuck out of it) your best bet is to ignore the bolt and try to get the carrier moving to the rear. If you can do that and things hold together, the carrier will try to finish camming the bolt out of battery.

    Can you separate the upper from the lower?

    If so, you should be able to get access to the bottom rear of the carrier so you can hammer it rearward with a piece of Delrin, brass, aluminum, etc.
    I can’t separate it in usual fashion.
    There’s are larger gas ports on the bc and may be able to use a steel dowel and force back on the bc. Thanks for the advice.
     
    Once you get the stock and tube off you can tap the BCG back into battery, drop the lower off and try to shake the primer out. Move BCG back and forth. If no success. Drive it fully reward. The primer will be in the lug recesses of course. Normally you can shake it out.
     
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    I had some issues with some Aguila ammo and ended up with TWO cases like this. Broke my charging handle the second time it was so stuck.
    I separated the upper from the lower, mounted upper upside down. Grabbed a big flat screwdriver, and a shop rag. Though a chunk of leather or flexible plastic of some sort would be best. Place the item of protection between the receiver and the screwdriver, and pry. Shop rag even folded on it self multiple times, I risked cutting through it to the receiver and damaging it.

    When done, zero damage or marks. Just go slow.
     
    I had some issues with some Aguila ammo and ended up with TWO cases like this. Broke my charging handle the second time it was so stuck.
    I separated the upper from the lower, mounted upper upside down. Grabbed a big flat screwdriver, and a shop rag. Though a chunk of leather or flexible plastic of some sort would be best. Place the item of protection between the receiver and the screwdriver, and pry. Shop rag even folded on it self multiple times, I risked cutting through it to the receiver and damaging it.

    When done, zero damage or marks. Just go slow.
    Thanks. I’ve definitely tried that. I appreciate the input though. Won’t budge.
     
    My money is on that approach failing also.
    I hope I'm wrong.

    That would work on a stuck case.
    If you had a stuck case, I feel like you would have already stripped the extractor through the rim and the bolt would be free to move to the rear leaving the case in the chamber.

    I still think your bolt lugs are still rotated into battery. If this is even partially true, no amount of force generated from the front onto the case and bolt is going to magically rotate and unlock your lugs.

    Keep us updated.
     
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    ^^^^^^
    This.
    I did not want to type all that but it is the answer.

    You will just waste a tube of grease and end up with a very greasy gun. The repair as I suggested will only take a few min.
     
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    The reason I suggested the tool I posted above is because it will apply force to the bolt carrier which will cam the bolt and disengage the lugs. As long as the extractor hasn't ripped the rim additional rearward force will dislodge the case from the chamber. If the rim is ripped off then the grease gun option is a viable solution.