I put together a thermal rig last night, 308Win Proof prefit. This action has the factory CTR 0MOA rail, and ejected brass is hitting the optic mount no matter where it's placed. Does anyone know of a rail option that's taller than this, besides the hideous MDT ESS rail? I tried a 20MOA EGW rail and it's better, but not quite 100%.
This is what I did.
Buy the cheap EGW rail (without a recoil pin) and mount it backward. It will move the optic more rearward so you aren't climbing the cheek piece. That should move optic enough out of the way.
If it's still hitting, get a cheap brass deflector or make one out of kydex that will attach to pic rail.
Buy the cheap EGW rail (without a recoil pin) and mount it backward. It will move the optic more rearward so you aren't climbing the cheek piece. That should move optic enough out of the way.
If it's still hitting, get a cheap brass deflector or make one out of kydex that will attach to pic rail.
they reached the required threshold to go ahead with the project so they'll be inletting for Tikka soon. I see you can still back the project so I assume if you back it you would still get on the preorder list if you didn't want to wait for its full release. you could call them though to double check.
It was alot easier than I thought it would be. Started out with a 6 5 Creed CTR barreled action, read every thread on the Hide about Tikka barrel removal, gave the shoulder/action and tenon/action junctions a Kroil bath for 2 days, strapped it into a SAC barrel vise as TIGHT as I could, installed a Wheeler #1 wrench finger tight, gave it 2 smacks with a mallet and it gave up. Proof barrel install was nothing, tightened to 80 ft lbs, checked head space and zereod. Wish I had done it sooner!
Anyone shooting a Tikka 260 Remington? I'm wondering how long you can seat a 142gr SMK. My .308 Tikka seems to be very long throated.
My 6.5CM T3x I needed non binder plate mags to get close to the lands with 144 Bergers. I will be building a load for the IBI carbon barrel I put on yesterday, and will report back the difference in B to O measurement.
Attachments
Thanks. I have mags that will do 2.92" but I suspect I'll be single loading to get near the lands.
I'm planning on modifying a Tikka action to accept a West Texas Ordnance Switch Lug. YOu have to face 0.100" off the front face of the receiver to do this. What is the best way to hold a tikka action in a lathe for this? Is a jig needed like on a remington or can I just hold a Tikka in a 4 jaw chuck? What is the best way to indicate the action to ensure it is square? I was planning on indicating off the raceway and then checking for square across the existing front face where the factory barrel shoulders. AM I on the right track? Not a gunsmith, but I do some machining for my job manual and CNC (I run a machine shop and on do some machining when we get backed up, manual and CNC and I know how to indicate parts in general, just never done any "gunsmithing" specifically. Just want to make sure I am on the right track before I try this.
The 4 jaw will be fine with some shims, sounds like you are on the right track, an indicator mandrel in the bolt raceway, and checking the receiver face is a good plan
On the other hand I think it is a really bad idea, I can’t see any advantage to what you are planning to do
I really just want a quick change barrel setup that requires minimal tools. why is it a bad idea, what are the disadvantages?
Switch barrels only make sense if you hardly ever use them, with something like a Tikka where the action cost is really inconsequential it is a waste of time and money.
And if you really have to have one, shouldered profits are the go
And if you really have to have one, shouldered profits are the go
It shoots as good as the factory barrel, I'd say. I did the change for weight savings mainly. I saved over a lb and a half in barreled action with the switch. I also went from 20x day optic to 640 core thermal image when I switched barrels, so it's hard to say. I probably should throw a day optic back on to check, but I've been happy with the Proof 16in. as it is. I run the cheap AAC Sabre 150gr load thru it from Palmetto State for night hunting, and it'll stay on a 10in. plate at 450yds all day, which is plenty for where we night hunt here.
Edit to add: Pic is three 3 shot groups at 100yds.
I have mine set up as a switch barrel, using a husky strap wrench and a spare bolt I go from 6.5 creed to a 7PRC while at the range. It’s very repeatable, but after some time, I’m gathering parts to just have a second matching rifle.
Also an update on this issue: I installed a 20MOA Area 419 rail to gain a little height for my optic, and ended up grinding a small angle into the forward optic mount lug that sits over the ejection port, and although spent cases still barely hit it on the way out, ejection is 100%.
Ive been chasing a sort of XM3 clone-ish build with a switch barrel and went down the rabbit hole with a 700 clone and it just didn’t work out how I liked so I’m going to give it a shot on a tikka. Want to have a couple bolts and 18.5” barrels for the creedmoor family (22, 6, and 6.5) as well as a couple magnums (300wsm and 6.5 PRC) and then the ARCs (22 and 6) if I can get a bolt for them. Will in a loaded KRG Bravo. Want the barrels to swap with just a change of bolts, and a torx torque limiter. Barrels will be a factory Tikka varmint chopped for my general purpose barrel, then carbon fiber for the rest, with custom profiles to mimic the Hart XM3 profile. Will run either the Griffin PSR 7 OTB suppressor or a SiCo Omega 300 on an A419 Hellfire. The question of why? Because I want to not because it makes the most sense or anything, I just like it.
This one?
Tikka Actions for sale - Bolts - Stocks - Pre fits - Barrels
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Tikka got a fresh coat of paint and finally had the time modify the STS barricade stop and ARCA rail
Nice bag rider. Any sellers in the US? I went to their site and the bag rider is 19.99 Euros and shipping is 69 Euros!
Yep! Sent mine back. Tikka could not repair it. So they offered me a new rifle. Anything tikka. Sights were canted to the left
Hi, I am new here. I recently got a left-handed t3x lite 300WM stainless steel. I would like to have it threaded. But the local gunsmith told me the barrel is too thin. Does anyone have any experience with any gunsmith that can do the same barrel other than buying a new barrel and installing it? I am willing to ship to any great gunsmith as well. My first goal is to thread it to patterns that can install muzzle brakes, such as silencerco ASR. I will be really appreciate if any of you can give me any advice. Thank you.
Anyone? Might pick up another T3x for a PRS Sportsman’s build and need to calculate weights.
CTR stock with fixed cheek piece 847g
CTR stock with adjustable cheek 942g
Trigger guard (not included above) 132g
CTR magazine (308) 161g
CTR action+trigger+rail 596g
Tikka bolt with Sterk swept 324g
CTR 6.5CM 24" barrel 1571g
CTR 260 19" barrel (shortened) 1316g
All weights in grams.
Aren’t you in Oz?
If so, your weights are lower because you’re upside down, you know.
My first time putting a rifle together after many years of buy custom or barreled actions. Got a used 300wsm T3X action, a lightly used 20" 6.5PRC PBB prefit, KRG Echo on black friday, trigger spring, Area419 20moa rail and an HCA tikka mag. 9lbs 9oz with suppressor attached. Going to go shoot it today.
The Lite barrels can usually be threaded 1/2x28” but some smiths are reluctant on 30 cal bores because there’s very little steel between the threads and the interior wall.
My smith is threading my Lite 1/2x28 but it’s .264 (6.5 PRC).
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